Category: Diet

  • Vizsla Basics: 101 Guide to Everything You Need to Know

    Vizsla Basics: 101 Guide to Everything You Need to Know

    Here’s the Vizsla basics, the Vizsla FAQs, the starting block, the page that answers questions about the Hungarian Vizsla you didn’t know you would be asking

    Breed: What is a Vizsla?

    Where is a Vizsla from?

    Vizslas originated from Hungary and is their national dog. They’re from the Magyar tribes, then owned by warlords and then the aristocracy (sometimes they’re called the Magyar Vizsla). The noble dog almost went extinct after civil and world wars and were thankfully saved and are now very popular with a devoted following in both Europe and North America (as well as Australia). Vizslas are one of the best pointer-retriever dogs that need to be part of the family and does not do well living in a kennel.

    What is a Vizsla a mix of?

    Vizslas are one of the oldest breeds and have actually been used in development of other breeds. Weimaraners, German Shorthaired Pointers, and many other breeds have had the Vizsla bloodlines to thank.

    Vizslas in show

    Can you get a miniature Vizsla?

    No, Vizslas are only recognized in one size and are bred to a standard. Here’s more information about the breed standard and what ethical breeders aim for. There are variations of course, and dogs that are larger or smaller in certain litters.

    What group does Vizslas belong to?

    Vizslas are part of the Sporting Group. Sporting dogs are well rounded companions. Vizslas are extremely versatile dogs that are used for hunting, various dog sports, rescue work, detection, and therapy. They are natural pointers and retrievers.

    Vizslas are bred to hunt, point and retrieve

    Are Vizslas hypoallergenic?

    No, in short they are not but they do not shed very much and their hair does not clump up in visible balls. Overall the breed does not produce a high amount of allergens compared to other breeds but some allergic people can tolerate these dogs.

    What size is a Vizsla? How much does a Vizsla weigh?

    Here’s a detailed blogpost I wrote about the size and weight of Vizslas

    Vizslas are beautiful dogs and a medium size, the smallest of the pointers

    What is the life expectancy of a Vizsla?

    Vizslas tend to live from 12-15 years. They’re overall a healthy breed, although this will vary depending on the breeder. Please find an ethical breeder that breeds for health (both physical and mental).

    How fast is a Vizsla?

    Vizslas have been said the be the second fastest breed (to greyhounds) depending on what you read. Individuals have been clocked at 40mph/65kmph! Vizslas are even faster than other breeds over uneven ground. No matter the exact speed and how they’ve been calculated, Vizslas are extremely fast dogs and have the endurance that greyhounds do not. This makes for great difficulty and can be dangerous if you do not have the ability to recall your dog. On the other hand, they’re wonderful for active runners, bikers, and hikers.

    Do Vizslas eyes stay blue? When do Vizslas eyes turn brown?

    No, Vizsla puppies are born with blue eyes that turn green, then finally amber. The full amber coloring may come quicker at 6 months or take up to 2 years. Ask your breeder about the parents and you might have a better idea of the timing although grown does also depend on the health of the dog.

    blue-green eyes will change to amber

    Vizsla Temperament

    Where do you buy a Vizsla? How do I get a Vizsla?

    Typically there are the choices of a breeder, or a rescue. I really don’t recommend a rescue unless you have experience with dogs, especially this breed if the rescue is showing behavioral issues. I do see rare cases of young Vizslas being given up because they are too energetic or senior Vizslas because they’re just no longer wanted. Well bred Vizslas should go back to their breeders to be rehomed but it’s not always the case. If you’d like a Vizsla puppy, a breeder would be where to look and here’s more on finding a breeder.

    Alpine Vizslas where I got my puppy from

    Do Vizslas bond to one person? Do they have a favorite person?

    I don’t typically see this as the case, although if one person is the main caretaker and trainer, it would be logical for the Vizsla to bond better with that person. It’s typical of the breed, and my own dogs to love people and for them to gravitate towards people, even strangers if they seem friendly.

    Do Vizslas fetch?

    Vizslas are bred to point and retrieve although not all puppies will have a natural fetch. Some may, and others might have to be taught. Whiskey did not naturally fetch but once I taught her, she became obsessed. Bourbon will only fetch when she thinks it’s her idea to play a game inside the house.

    Will my Vizsla run away?

    What is “running away”? Like most hunting breeds, Vizslas tend to have prey drive and are interested in tracking scents. They are friendly social dogs that do like to say hi to other people and other dogs and explore their environment. As an intelligent and energetic breed, Vizslas can get bored and lonely and find their fun elsewhere. Vizslas can also fixate on prey and chase deer, birds, or other prey for long distances. Lastly Vizslas are a sensitive breed that can have anxiety or be frightened if not properly socialized to sounds or events and run off to escape, or to find their owners if separated. So, yes there reasons that a Vizsla may leave you, it is a matter of understanding why, and mitigating the issues.

    Do Vizslas whine alot?

    Vizlsas are intelligent, opinionated, sensitive, and affectionate. If they are not receiving the attention or treats, or life that they feel like they need, they will inform you so. My two girls rarely whine, we have a communication between us that is clear and does not involve whining but if I encouraged it, I’m sure there would be much whining in the house!

    What food is best for a Vizsla? What should I feed my Vizsla?

    Food is such a hot topic! There is kibble (and a HUGE variety of quality and types), canned food, home-cooked, commercial raw food, and DYI raw food. There’s also lots of options in-between. My suggestion is to ask your breeder, your vet, experienced owners with a history of healthy dogs, canine dietitians and research scientifically peer reviewed papers. Lastly, know and see what works with your dog. If the poop is mush, if the coat is dull, skin is itchy, and the energy level low, there is a problem. Don’t feed something your dog does not digest well, even if it’s the most recommended food of the month. Feed what your dog does well on, what you can afford, and you can always throw in some healthy leftovers too!

    Food is very dependent on your personal decisions

    How long until Vizslas are grown adult dogs?

    Vizslas are pretty much physically fully grown at 1.5-2 years old. However, sometimes their brains take a bit longer to catch up. Some Vizslas take longer to mentally mature than others. My eldest Vizsla was a super mature puppy that had the temperament of a senior. My youngest Vizsla Bourbon is still puppy-brained at 2.5 years old (although sometimes she seems like an adult, other times she’s full puppy).

    What’s wrong with my Vizsla?

    Is my Vizsla depressed?

    Has there been a large change in your Vizsla’s temperament? If your habits have not changed, take stock of what may have changed. Vizslas are very sensitive to emotions and their environment and can pick up on changes you may not realize. If you’re certain nothing has changed but your Vizsla is not eating, low energy, shaking, or scared, or just not loving life like before, perhaps it’s time to go to the vet.

    Vizslas are very emotive

    Why does my Vizsla grumble?

    Vizlsas are intelligent, opinionated, sensitive, and very needy. They love to communicate their needs and wants and can sometimes be considered a very “human” dog. Look into their eyes and see their expressions and tell me you cannot tell what they’re thinking! Vizslas grumble and talk to communicate with you and others.

    Why is my Vizsla shaking?

    Assuming your Vizsla is not shivering (this breed only has one coat of hair so gets cold very quickly), there can be many reasons your dog is shaking. Fear is usually the most obvious one, followed by anxiety. Sensitive individuals will shake more than others. Bourbon, my youngest shakes all the time. She shakes when she’s scared (when there’s a loud BANG), when she anticipates something bad happening (when we go to do her nails), and when there’s too much pressure put on her and she is not comfortable (at a competition or at a new equipment). Bourbon’s also noticed that when she shakes, she gets love and attention from humans, so sometimes she shakes to avoid working, to get what she wants, and to manipulate strangers into liking her and giving her attention. This last point is not very typical of the breed, but it is my experience!

    Do Vizslas bite?

    Any dog can bite if cornered and pushed to it’s limits. Vizslas are not known as an aggressive breed that have bite issues however, but any anxious fearful dog that is abused or at it’s limits without other options (like running away) may potentially bite. Poorly bred Vizslas can have aggression in their bloodlines (I’ve known of several), and Vizslas that have had trauma and have been previously attacked can also bite.

    When do Vizslas stop chewing?

    Assuming we are speaking about puppy chewing, the sharkies usually end once the adult teeth have come in. Here’s a diary of my experience.

    How do I wear out my Vizsla?

    Vizslas are one of the most energetic breeds, so hopefully you have selected this breed because you wanted the energy! There’s usually two routes to go and much in-between. There is the physical route, where you can run your Vizsla, and the mental where you can train your Vizsla. Interestingly enough, my Vizslas tired out much quicker from engaging in mental training over physical. Of course there are lots of activities that bridge both, like agility, or search and rescue, so the options really are endless. My advice is to get two things done at once. If you need to tire a Vizsla out that is in recovery or injured, do some canine conditioning with target plates or wobble boards to increase strength at the same time. If you have a young healthy Vizsla, work on recall with a long line around other dogs, or people or even birds.

  • Preventative Joint Supplements for an Aging Active Dog

    Preventative Joint Supplements for an Aging Active Dog

    My aging beauty 8 years old and sugar-faced with a flower crown

    Whiskey just turned 8 and the reality of an older dog is hitting hard. Although we are still doing all the long distance multi-day hiking, the trail runs, and offleash walks at least twice a day, Whiskey’s slowing down and I know she’s getting achy just like me. Sometimes we hike over 12 hours a day, half on scree and boulder fields, scrambling 2000m+ (7000 ft) vertically up and down mountains. The longest hike we did last year was 8 days in a row and Whiskey did every single one of the extra side-trips and peaks.

    Just last year I started researching what supplements might be good for joints as a preventative to keep Whiskey oiled and feeling good over long days. Although I have very little knowledge compared to vets or specialists, I’d like to share what we’re using since so many ask. Keep in mind, Whiskey has no current issues and everything is used as a preventative. I also feed my dogs raw at home (other things while we travel), and take a balanced approach to their health (between traditional and holistic). I also do not make money off any links (feel free to buy me a coffee or shop in my store if you want to support me)

    Omega-3s Fish Oil– There’s a huge list of studied benefits of Omega-3 fatty acids for humans and the same holds true for puppies and dogs. It can be used as treatment for arthritis and kidney disease in older dogs and is great for skin, coat, nervous system and joints. I use squid oil to avoid mercury.

    Glucosamine– One of the most used ingredients for join supplements. Similar to humans, glucosamine helps keep our cartilage healthy but as we age, the body makes less which can lead to joint breakdown and inflammation. Daily supplements usually made of shellfish can relieve pain and help inflammation.

    Chondroitin Sulfate-Chondroitin helps mobility and flexibility and prevents the break down of cartilage. It works well combined with Glucosamine to help joints, and even stimulate repair mechanisms.

    MSM– is a natural chemical in dogs and humans (and other living things) and is used to treat arthritis. Like Glucosamine and Chondroitin, it can be used to support connective tissue and has antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects.

    Turmeric– The active ingredient in Turmeric is curcumin that has been studied to be an effective anti inflammatory without the side effects of traditional drugs. I use Turmeric after we’ve had a big day, and tend to carry it on hiking road-trips.

    CBD– CBD interacts with the endocannabinoid system to block pain signals and reduce joint inflammation. I’ve only used this as a treatment, not preventative but I thought to put this on the list. Make sure any CBD oil you buy is specifically for dogs so there is no trace of THC in it. Not all CBD products are made the same, and my own vet suggests that good quality oil is the most effective way to go.

    Egg shell membrane– My physiotherapist suggested I take NEM (Natural Eggshell Membrane) for my own knee issues so naturally, I looked into it for Whiskey. Since we eat eggs all the time, I just feed the membrane to her since it’s a “free” supplement. Egg shell membrane contains proteins such as collagen, but also chondroitin sulfate, and glucosamine so it’s basically an amazing addition to everything else I’m feeding. The easiest way to break the membrane from the egg (if your dog doesn’t eat eggshells) is to crack a bit of the shell at the top, and then use that crack to peel the membrane off.

    The last year Whiskey will be carrying a load

    Products we use/have used

    Some people start their dogs on joint supplements after 3 years old, some only when they see problems like stiff joints or limping after a big day. How much, how soon, you use these depend on your dog, your breed, financial ability and comfort. The availability of specific brands will depend on where you live and the quality of the brand is quite important so dig in a little and ask vets if they do NOT recommend a brand, or sport dog trainers that have tried several local options and can compare. Lastly keep in mind food allergies (specifically shellfish and beef) when choosing supplements.

    Nutramax Cosequin- It’s affordable (I buy this at Costco) and includes all the basics (glucosamine and chondroitin sulfate, MSM). Whiskey gets this daily

    Green-Lipped Mussels– These mussels are from New Zealand and are super tasty with fries, but also are join supplements with omega-3s, chondroitin and glycosaminoglycans. I buy a powder form and add it with Whiskey’s regular supplements on top of her raw food in the mornings.

    FeelGood Omega-3 – I trust this brand of supplements (I use others for both Whiskey and Bourbon) to have carefully researched ingredients for my dogs. I used to use salmon oil but then realized it wasn’t sustainable and higher levels of mercury. Calamari populations are increasing vs krill and fish. Both dogs get this daily!

    CBD– I honestly cannot remember the brand we used but it was recommended by my vet. There seems to be quite a difference in quality of the oils so definitely do your research and not just go with the cheapest one.

    Recovery– I’ve used this when Whiskey’s had a limp and it’s been recommended by most active senior dog owners I’ve met. I would use this as a treatment, not preventative. It includes MSM and glucosamine hydrochloride as the top ingredients.

    Pup Snax™ Daily Immune Plus Probiotic – I recently discovered this from Puppington and it works well as a daily chew for everything. It has Glucosamine, Chondroitin, Wild Alaskan Salmon Oil, Turmeric, and then a probiotic blend on top.

  • Raw Dog Feeding- Affordable, Details, our Vancouver sources, and supplements

    Raw Dog Feeding- Affordable, Details, our Vancouver sources, and supplements

    1. Whiskey
    2. Bourbon
    3. Feeding details
    4. Proteins
    5. Extras
    6. Supplements
    7. Meal Bones
    8. Sample Meal
    9. Travel and Training
    10. Amount
    11. Benefits and Downsides
    12. Risks
    13. Switching
    14. Digestive Issues
    15. Sources

    Whiskey’s tummy

    When I first brought Whiskey home, she was eating kibble and for some reason, kibble just didn’t really make “sense” to me. I avoid highly processed food in general because it just doesn’t make me feel so good, and I wanted to feed Whiskey something I understood and felt good about. To me, food should look like food, and I started cooking for her and trying different menu options. I wasn’t against kibble sometimes, but I just felt that since I wouldn’t like to eat nutrition bars all my life (but hey once in awhile is fine), I wanted to try and feed more fresh foods to my growing puppy.

    After a couple weeks it just became very time consuming and I was getting anxious about balancing all the required nutrients. It’s very hard to know how much calcium you’re feeding for example, and although Whiskey LOVED the cooked meals, it just wasn’t a practical long term solution. At that point she ate more food than I did, and I was making a huge batch of slow-cooked food every other day and grocery shopping just took too much money and time.

    Raw meat mix with leftover veges I had in the fridge

    Soon after I shifted her onto raw food, but it took me 1 year to figure out what Whiskey did best on, and where best to buy from. Whiskey was very picky with food, and she had multiple issues with Guardia and diarrhea, vomiting, and other illnesses in the beginning so it took awhile to find our rhythm. In the end, I found out that Whiskey likes semi-frozen meals, and doesn’t like chicken, gamey bird meats (like Quail and duck), but is ok with Turkey. When I say she doesn’t “like”, she’s not intolerant, she just refuses to eat it, and will pick at her food for weeks if I try to out-stubborn her and would get way too skinny. Whiskey seems to do well on lean meats like Turkey, Lamb, Pork, and Elk (we had a scare where we thought she might have had Pancreatitis), and is very sensitive to greasy foods (much more sensitive than Bourbon for example). Every dog is different and it’s really good to find out what works for your dog (like people!).

    Nutrience pre-mix with raw elk, canned pumpkin leftover rice, and raw egg

    Bourbon’s appetite

    Bourbon also came kibble-fed and I was able to switch her over to raw within one meal several days after she settled into our home. She had no tummy problems and eats really well. Bourbon eats meats well but is oddly picky with new foods like vegetables and fruits. While Whiskey will beg for orange slices and strawberries, Bourbon won’t touch them. Each dog is different! Bourbon’s done well with every protein we’ve thrown at her. The only thing I have to keep in mind is to slowly increase her large “bone meals” (meaty bones as a meal) or she’ll be overwhelmed with a bone too large! Bourbon loves fish, even whole fish, while Whiskey will only eat small chopped up fish.

    What a typical block of frozen dog meat looks like. 10% bone, 5% liver, 5% kidney/spleen 80% muscle meat

    Vet opposition

    Most traditional vets are opposed to the raw diet for a variety of reasons. Most studies about dog food are done and funded by large dog food companies and there is very little financial incentive to study the benefits to raw so first off there’s little evidence to back raw food as being an healthier alternative. Raw food manufacturers are new and small (and tend to be local because raw is harder to ship) and don’t have the resources to fund these studies.

    Also because raw diets vary so much, vets can be scared of the possibility of nutritional imbalances. There are definitely some people that aren’t going to do the research or even know that this is something you need to do. If you feed only hamburger meat and eggshells, your dog is going to be sick, so you’ll need to do a minimal amount of research or purchase a pre-mixed raw. At the least a dog needs muscle meat, organ (lots of minerals and vitamins in organs), and bone. Last, the risk of meat-borne bacteria. While there is always a risk of handing raw meat, it’s not more so than any meat that you eat (we buy all human grade meat for our dogs). Vets don’t want to take on the extra liability if they recommend a raw diet.

    We’ve worked with vets that oppose or support our raw feeding but once they see how healthy our dogs are, their teeth, coat, and demeanor, I haven’t been given too much grief. I’ve found over time they’re more supportive or at least there’s less opposition.

    Daily feeding raw, the details

    Semi-frozen seems like the best texture for most dogs. Some will eat fully frozen, and most that I know aren’t crazy about fully defrost soft mushy raw blend. For meaty bones, Whiskey didn’t’ want to work for her meal, so I would sear the sides of the turkey neck or lamb neck to get her “into it”. I also taught the dogs to eat on a mat for easy indoor cleanup. I feed my cat the same meat as my dogs, I just add extra taurine into the food for her (in the form of hearts).

    Everyday I defrost the next day’s meat and feed the meal I put in the day earlier so its’ semi defrosted in the fridge. We have a deep freezer (even in the apartment we bought a deep freezer) so we can get about 120 lbs of meat at a time to keep costs and shopping less. We use THESE containers and put a couple blocks in. Whiskey eats about 1.5lbs and Bourbon (currently 8 months) eats about 2lbs. I use a fork to break up the semi-frozen blocks into a bowl, add any extras, and feed. It takes approx. 2 mins to prepare. We use a sanitizing wipe or spray on the mats after they’ve eaten and that’s about it. I’m extra cautious about tripe and I’m always in the room with the girls while they eat. I like to prevent any guarding issues with eating (all 3 are fed at the same time), and if we’re feeding bones, I’m also there to encourage them to stay on the mat. They also eat better and are less insecure if I’m there. If one finishes much faster, I’m also there to remove a temptation for one to go after another’s meal.

    a 40lb box of bulk raw meat, straight into the deep freezer, we get 3 at a time

    Proteins we feed

    I usually buy my food in bulk 40lb boxes of a single protein although sometimes I might get patties, or pre-mixes to make my life easier (or if someone is pet-sitting I want their lives to be easy!). Most mixes we use are around 80% muscle meat, 10% organ and 10% bone.

    Beef -local, but higher fat, prefer elk but harder to find
    Turkey- our go to protein, lean and easier to digest than chicken
    Pork- lean, we use rarely but I do like to mix in different protein, there is a blanket warning about feeding raw pork because of larvae of Trichinella spiralis (a parasite), however this is not an issue in Canada
    Elk- Low in fat, we love elk but hard to find and more expensive
    Fish- whole fish from Asian food markets, or fish byproduct from our local fish shop (odds and ends that don’t make it to human products), please note to freeze wild caught salmon or any hunted meats for 3 weeks before feeding to avoid parasites

    Nutrience Raw or other pre-mix- just feed packets and done! includes supplements, veg, variety meat mixed already

    Make sure the premix has muscle meat, bone, and organ, if not, then make sure you add some. You don’t need to add it in equally every meal, just overall. For instance some premix doesn’t have bone because it’s hard to grind up beef bones. I might feed 3 meals of beef without bone (2 meals a day) and then feed one meal of meaty bone. If I don’t add veg to one meal, I might add extra to another. You’re aiming for variety overall, not variety in every meal.

    raw turkey with sardines, egg, and Dr Dobias supplements

    Extras

    lamb neck- Whiskey’s favorite, a good treat I can’t always afford, Whiskey prefers it seared (roll eyes here)
    chicken carcass- Moo and Bourbon, best to start puppies from
    chicken/turkey hearts- for Moo (I feed her dog meat mix and add extra hearts for taurine)
    turkey/duck neck- Bourbon loves, Whiskey doesn’t seem to digest these well anymore (although turkey meat is ok)
    green tripe- Amazing for both dogs, I try to find whole pieces, not ground down (cheaper and less processed), super smelly but healthy if you can deal with the smell (not for the newly initiated into raw feeding!)
    pumpkin (canned)/ steamed yams
    steamed veges, chopped spinach,
    chicken egg/quail egg
    berries
    leftovers (nothing greasy, toxic, saucy)

    Supplements I use, I don’t really need to but I feel better!

    Supplements

    I use GreenMin, Soulfood from Dr Dobias (I use about a 1/3 of the recommended amount a day)
    Fish/sardines/krill oil for omega 3s
    Turmeric as an inflammatory (after high impact activity, or any swelling)
    Green lipped mussel for joints
    Kiefer for probiotics
    Gutsense (after vomiting or diarrhea or antibiotic use)

    Nutrience Raw mix with kiefer, turkey neck for Bourbon, lamb neck for Whiskey, and pumpkin

    Meal bones

    We feed meal bones 1-3 times a week. This is to help clean their teeth, and when I just need a break because it can take up to an hour for Whiskey to break down a piece of lamb neck. Chewing on a meaty bone takes brain power and it’s something they both enjoy and get tired doing. It’s the perfect rainy day activity.

    See this as an opportunity to vary your usual proteins, and size depending on your dog’s chewing ability. Start with smaller bones with a puppy or cats, like chicken carcass, and duck neck. My cat can break down turkey necks but she’s a bit…crazy. Start young and with boney pieces like chicken backs or turkey necks in sections (chop them up). If your dog is just licking the the meat if they are playing with it too much and cut into the meat so there’s more to work with. Whiskey also preferred her meat seared (I’m serious, she was that picky but then she would eat it). Don’t try cartilage until you know your dog is really into bones. Whiskey hates the texture.

    If you can feed outdoors that’s ideal but we have to feed indoors so we’ve taught the dogs to eat on a mat. Look around for a butcher than might keep you some cuts for cheap. Avoid weight bearing bones on large animals if your dog is a big chewer (they might crack teeth) and never feed cooked bones, especially small birds because cooked bones are brittle and can break and puncture intestines. If your dog does eat some by mistake, just keep an eye out for any signs of issues.

    Sample meal

    I just wash my hands after handling raw meat, I use food storage containers to defrost daily

    I typically don’t spend too much effort making a fancy meal for my dog but sometimes I’ll have extras. The base for most meals is just the block of meat I buy in bulk. Here’s an example of how much effort I put in myself, although I see many dog parents that make the most Instagram worthy meals for their pups!

    Simple meal (50%): 1 bock of meat half defrosted

    Regular meal (35%): 1 block of meat, some veg, supplements

    Fancy meal (10%): 1 block of meat, quail egg, fish, veg, tablespoon kiefer, supplements, berries from garden

    Bone Meal (10%): 1 piece of meaty bone

    Travel and Training with Raw

    For travel I’ll usually bring a couple blocks of meat for the first couple days and put them in the hotel fridge or an ice box. Pre-mixes are easiest at this point and sometimes the pre-packed packaging really helps in an ice box. If we are going into the backcountry our somewhere without a fridge I’ll start bringing freeze dried raw. There’s many different options on the market and in most cases you do get what you pay for. Try feeding the freeze dried as treats or food topper before going on the trip to make sure your dog will eat it happily first. I’ve found some cheaper brands will show in loose stools, but we’ve had the best luck with Open Farm’s freeze dried raw. Our dogs love it so much I use it as training treats and meal supplements while training Bourbon as a puppy. Also if your dog has also done well with kibble I don’t see harm in switching to kibble for travelling either as long as stools show no change and your dog seems to be doing well. Of course like always, I’m not an expert and just speaking from my own personal experience.

    Amount to feed

    Feed the dog in front of you. Start with an amount. If your dog is skinny, double it until your dog looks good, then reduce the amount until your dog looks healthy. If your dog is too big, halve the amount until your dog looks good, then find the amount in-between that keeps your dog at that weight. Don’t move up and down in small amounts. Watch their poop, bugs? loose? tight? it will tell you lots!

    Our costs are around 2-3$/lbs (Canadian dollars) in bulk 40lbs box. 53lbs Whiskey eats about 1.5lbs a day (3% of body weight but very active dog) and 41lbs Bourbon eats about 2lbs (5% of body weight at 8 months). They get extra on days we are doing big hikes, and maybe less if we’re not doing too much (although that’s rare because Bourbon doesn’t really allow that scenario).

    Puppy *first month home- 8-10%
    Growing puppy- 6-8%
    Teenager puppy- 4-6%
    1-2 yrs- 3-4%
    adult 2-3%
    active adult- 3%
    senior/less active/overweight adult – 1.5%

    On the top was my dinner, on the bottom, Whiskey’s dinner, this makes more sense to me than kibble

    What are the benefits to feeding raw

    -you know exactly what you are feeding, easier to control for allergies
    -not processed
    -local sources
    -control over ingredients (more fat, less fat, more meat, less pumpkin)
    -fresh food, easily digestible
    -less gas, less stinky breath, less poop (more food used, less poop wastage)
    -no preservatives
    -no fillers needed to make kibble
    -clean teeth (bones and no fillers/carbs)
    -less “doggie” odour
    -less shedding, softer shiner coat
    -more energy, better immune system

    Downsides to feeding raw

    -tends to be more expensive
    -gross compared to kibble
    -need to have organization and defrost, etc
    -more washing, more hassle
    -limited usage (ie compared to kibble best before date)
    -harder to source
    -need travelling options
    -can worry if old/young/immune compromised
    -need freezer space

    raw meat, roasted pumpkin, kefir, supplements

    What are the risks and how do we mitigate them?

    If there’s young children or very old family members that may be immune compromised, keep surfaces clean and don’t use the same bowl for humans and dogs. Use the same precautious handing any kind of meat as with the dog food. Avoid kisses right after eating. Don’t keep food too long defrosted, we’ve rarely had this issue, but I’ve refrozen the food (sometimes even for an hour or two) if I think we might be going on a camping trip. Remember humans are more at risk than dogs to things like e-coli, dogs eat loads of unsavory things and don’t get sick and their stomachs are better adjusted to eating raw meat than ours are.

    Switching diets to raw

    This really depends on the dog that is transitioning and can be easy or hard. With Whiskey it took months going from kibble to cooked to raw. Kibble to cooked food is really easy, and from cooked to raw, it took a longer time. I was new to raw feeding and was trying many sources and things. I also didn’t know that half frozen is ideal for texture! Whiskey is so picky with her food and since she was the only dog eating, there was no sense of competition (she ate better when we petsitted another dog).

    Bourbon just switched outright and never looked back. Some dogs are able to eat one meal kibble, one meal raw without issues, others cannot. Slow cooked food is the easiest to digest so use that for transitioning if you have a sensitive tummy. Start with a raw meal after 12-24 hours of a kibble one, start with a smaller amount, maybe with some pumpkin. If your dog doesn’t like half-frozen, try a room temperature meal but make sure you don’t leave the food out very long.

    Moo’s food is at the bottom. She gets the same raw and a chicken heart (for taurine)

    Digestive issues

    If your dog gets sick or has stomach issues after switching, watch their poop. As soon as Whiskey or Bourbon gets diarrhea or vomits more than once, I switch straight to slow cooked turkey, white rice, and pumpkin (or carrots). I also use Gutsense from Dr Dobias (probiotics specifically for dogs). I used to use another brand but once I looked up the ingredients I was really disgusted and found Gutsense. I keep feeding until the poop looks good for a couple days, then slowly transition back to raw. I basically just throw everything into a slowcooker and make a massive amount of congee (Chinese rice soup). Giardia is pretty prevalent where I live and after I learned to do this we haven’t had to go to the vet over any stomach issues since they clear up themselves.

    BC Sources we have tried and used and recommend

    RainCity meats $ (delivery) email muttleycrewadventures@gmail.com for details
    Beltrame meats $
    B&T Raw $
    In the Raw $$
    Nutrience Subzero Raw (Petsmart) $$$
    True Carnivores $$ (delivery)
    Open Farm (Discount Code Whiskey10) $$$
    Supplements from Dr Dobias $$

  • Puppy Dog Chews- an extensive list

    Puppy Dog Chews- an extensive list

    Over the first 7 months, Vizsla puppies can be very mouthy. They first go through a sharky stage at 3months and then start teething soon after so it’s really good to have multiple options for them to chew on outside of your skin, clothing, furniture, or other valuables.

    Here’s various things we’ve tried, some with more success than others. Neither of my dogs are power chewers. They’re both pretty gentle and thoughtful with their chews and they lose interest quickly. The chews that DID NOT WORK were- nylabones and other synthetic chews. I also didn’t feed rawhide, cooked bones, or anything with too many ingredients.

    Bullysticks
    Bourbon’s Favorite
    Size ideal for Whiskey

    • Somehow the more expensive they are, the more they seem to enjoy them (for the same size, they prefer bison for example). Sometimes there are some particular ones Whiskey doesn’t seem to care for more than others
    • Get the largest ones you can for adult dogs as they will last longer per dollar, and get smaller ones for puppies or they may not be able to chew the gigantic ones
    • Both show medium interest and can lose interest after 10mins
    • Pay extra for odorless if there’s an option and chewing on your furniture
    • $8-20
    • Bourbon (sized small) 1 day, Whiskey (sized Massive) 3 days (I leave them out and they chew on and off but then Whiskey steals Bourbons)

    Himalayan Chews

    • Yak and Cow cheese
    • An old favorite, I love these because we can leave them around the house and Whiskey or Bourbon will chew on them when they’re bored
    • Medium interest, they pick it up here and there
    • Get smaller ones for puppies, although Bourbon happily chews on the larger ones too
    • $11
    • Whiskey/Bourbon 2 weeks
    • Warning- if your dog is a big chewer these wouldn’t last as long, Also If your dog is small and is a big chewer, large pieces in their stomach may not break down. Lastly if your small dog is a powerful chewer they can develop teeth issues so please feed with caution

    Beef Tendon

    • Single ingredient, dehydrated, grass-fed beef
    • Both show great interest and will chew until done
    • Great alternative to bullysticks
    • $7 each
    • Whiskey 20mins/Bourbon 40mins

    Tripe Twists

    • Healthy, single ingredient
    • Best for small dogs/puppies
    • Both love these
    • A bit messy and smelly, so feed on an easily cleanable surface
    • Bourbon 8mins

    Fish Skin

    • Healthy, single ingredient, air dried, sustainable
    • Both love these!
    • $5
    • Bourbon 10mins/Whiskey 2 mins

    Horns

    • Goat/Cow/Lamb horns
    • Whiskey and Bourbon show interest once awhile
    • Can be really loud on hard flooring
    • $18+
    • Bourbon/Whiskey- forever
    • Warning- if your dogs are big powerful chewers they can splinter and cause issues

    Antlers

    • Split/Whole
    • Whiskey’s had the same one since she was a puppy
    • split antlers can be more splintery overtime and dogs can lose interest once the marrow is gone
    • Bourbon doesn’t show much interest, Whiskey picks it up once in awhile
    • We leave these out for chewing here and there
    • Warning- if your dogs are big powerful chewers they can splinter and cause issues
    • $20+
    • Bourbon/Whiskey forever

    Boxes

    Bourbon loves chewing on cardboard boxes so I let her have some (especially since during covid we are receiving so many packages and cardboard is free!) My only concern is that the chewing won’t stop once she gets older but I’m hoping after she finishes teething that she’ll be able to understand what is hers and what isn’t.

    Stuffed Toys

    • I like to have some stuffed toys as options to clothing
    • Neither of my dogs are power chewers so my stuffed toys will eventually break but they tend to last a month so far
    • Bourbon likes to chew soft pillows/blankets so I prefer to teach her to go for a toy instead
    • Whiskey used to bite out of excitement when we came home so she’s trained to bring us a stuffed toy when we come home

    Kongs/West Paw

    • Great to stuff with peanut butter and treats and freeze or just feed
    • Whiskey loves these but Bourbon doesn’t show as much interest so far so Whiskey just steals them
    • $8-22
    • Bourbon just doesn’t seem to want to work for her food, she’d rather take something easier, like a chair leg

    Quado

    • The texture was something Bourbon really liked when she was in her sharkies stage (8 weeks-10 weeks) and she lost her crazy interest but will still play with these
    • $10-20
    • Bourbon 45mis as a puppy

    Pigs Ear

    • limited ingredient but fatty
    • $2 each
    • Bourbon 10 mins Whiskey 4mins

    Crumps Plaque Busters

    • Limited ingredient – made with sweet potatoes, grounded oyster shells, pumpkin spice and coconut oil
    • $8.40 for 8 sticks
    • Bourbon 10 mins Whiskey 2mins

    Turkey Wing/Neck dehydrated

    • Limited ingredient, healthy
    • $8 each
    • Bourbon 15mins Whiskey 5 mins

    Turkey Neck Raw

    • sourced from local raw providers
    • sourced also from local Asian grocery stores
    • you must feed outside or train your dog to stay on a mat
    • meal replacement for puppy
    • $4/lb
    • Bourbon-45mins (she gets faster over time)! Whiskey 5mins

    Venison Trotter dehydrated

    • Limited ingredient, healthy
    • 12$
    • Bourbon 1 hour+ Whiskey 30 mins

    Buffalo Hide Rolls

    • Our favorite long lasting chew, great for power chewers
    • sells out really quickly
    • Single ingredient, well sourced
    • 12-16$
    • Bourbon…(until Whiskey steals it?) Whiskey (several days but I take away inbetween after half an hour)

    Forever Lasting
    Antlers/Horns

    Long Lasting
    Buffalo Hide Rolls, Monster Bullysticks, Himalayan Chews

    Med Lasting
    Smaller Bullysticks, Beef Tendon, Pigs ear, Lamb Trotter, Turkey neck raw, Kongs/Westpaw

    Snacks
    Fish Skin, Tripe Twists, Quado, Turkey neck dehydrated, Plaque Busters

  • Dehyrating pet treats

    Dehyrating pet treats

     

    dehydrating beef liver

    So because I’ve been taking more photos recently since joining Instagram @mywhiskeygirl, I’ve also been paying out much more treats for beautiful Whiskey poses. Whiskey (and most dogs) don’t work for free! My cat Moo, also gets treats daily for using the human toilet, and just being cute 🙂 There are cheaper treats out there (using flour or chicken meal) but of course, my pets prefer the more expensive ones which tend to be the one-ingredient dehydrated meat! It also makes me feel better knowing I don’t have to count how many I give her calorie-wise although I am much poorer for it.

    local beef liver from our raw food provider

    Eventually, I started thinking to make my own treats by purchasing a dehydrator off Amazon and asking my regular dog-meat provider for extra beef liver to make treats. I got a larger tray dehydrator because it seemed quieter and had a fan so you didn’t need to constantly rotate the trays for even drying. However, I would have liked a timer on the dehydrator so I could have it run overnight without waking up to turn it off.

    chop up liver into smaller slices

    Lay out liver on trays

    Dehydration turned out super simple, especially if your meat provider has already sliced up the meat ahead of time. Just make sure the meat is fully dried and keep them in the fridge or freezer if you are not using them immediately. I also chop them into smaller pieces to make handouts easier. Of course, you can also hydrate human food too (we’ve done beef jerky but I’ve yet to get the recipe perfect).

    Dehydrate at highest temperature until fully dry at thickest parts

    Finished treats, chop up for handouts

  • Bumps, and Rashes, and Fleas, Oh My!

    We play with Whiskey throughout the day, flipping her over and tumbling all around with her.  The other day I saw some red spots around her arm and leg ‘pits’ and after a quick check, discovered she had picked up fleas from a dog at the park (most likely).  She’s currently on Sentinel, although she was just overdue for her monthly pill so I wasn’t 100% sure if the pill was still active.  Sentinel mainly kills heart and tummy worms but is also a flea preventative: it doesn’t kill adult fleas – it causes the adult fleas to become infertile, so as to avoid infestations.

    Immediate treatment
    As soon as I found the spots I rubbed her coat with a vinegar/lemon mix.  I also boiled her collar (with some rosemary sprigs) and found a bunch of fleas in the water confirming my fears.  I suppose because I had covered her in vinegar, that the fleas must have jumped on the collar.  Those were the only fleas I ever found.  I set out a flea trap at night (soapy water in a pan with a light) and caught none.  Thankfully, cat also showed no signs of fleas.  I don’t even want to think about attempting a bath with our very overconfident cat.  It was very late when we noticed the bumps so we didn’t get to clean the house until the morning.

    boiling her collar 
    This is what floated up from the water!  gross!
    day 2 photos
    her armpits
    poor girl!

    Day after
    The next day, we cleaned all dog and human bedding, vacuumed the house very well, and gave her a bath with her emu oil shampoo (it’s supposed to repel fleas).  Also, after the first day we saw no signs of more bites so I think we caught them early, or the Senntinal was working.  I also vacuumed the house that evening, and everyday for a week.  Crossing fingers, we avoided an infestation.  In two days we already saw improvement in her rashes and bites.

    day 3 photos
    no more new bites, but old ones are poofy
    heeling already
    you would have never known from her sweet temperament

    Flea pills
    I had been going back and forth about giving Whiskey a dewormer/flea preventative monthly as it’s basically like putting chemicals and poison in them.  The problem is we live downtown, and the dog parks are not very clean.  There are homeless dogs around, and we meet around 100 dogs a week. There is old poop every foot in the city.  We are also going to start daycare soon, and many daycares require preventatives so I guess our decision is made.  Sometimes the treatment to kill fleas and worms can be worse than the preventative.  Especially flea infestations!

    More bumps!
    In hindsight I think it was just bad luck with bad timing, but while her flea bites were healing she got another kind of bumps all over her tummy.  When it rains, it pours I guess!  These were different bumps.  They were evenly spotted over her tummy and upper legs and were not itchy or red.  They were hard and raised and after some research I was pretty confident they were allergy bumps (actually I had seen them on forums before so I wasn’t panicked).  I wasn’t as concerned because we seemed to have dealt with the fleas ok, so I figured I’d delay a trip to the vet until the bumps bothered her, or got worse.  The bumps came and went over the next week and these were our very amateur guesses at what caused it:

    -chicken (she normally does not get chicken and I had given her some the night before)
    -bedding detergent (I had finished an old jug of non-environmentally friendly detergent I don’t normally use)
    -water from the beach

    allergy bumps on her tummy

    Allergies
    The bumps are now mostly gone after coming and going for a week and a half.  I’ve ruled out bedding detergent, but the fact that they weren’t on her back makes us suspicious that something could have been in the water at the beach she frequents.  She usually wades in to her tummy and doesn’t go fully in.  Food allergies are super tough since symptoms can come several weeks after the dog has eaten the problem food, and symptoms can last several weeks after the dog has digested it.  Also dogs can get allergic to something they seem to have been fine with, but they only show symptoms after their body has tolerated too much.  The detective work needed is frustrating and Whiskey has been eating a huge variety of food.  In general it’s tricky with puppies too since their immune system is still growing, so with luck she won’t keep this allergy (if that’s what it is).  Since the bumps have been going away, I’ll just keep an eye out for them when we give her tummy rubs.

    you can see bumps are just on her tummy but are getting fewer
  • A very busy day

    This week I’m off work, and I’m really looking forward to relaxing at home with the pets.  Since we don’t own a car, we decided to rent from a car share a couple times this week to get out of the city.

    Today we tried out Jug Island in Coquitlam.  It’s a short little hike with minimal incline and a great way to start the day.  The highlight of the hike is a little beach that faces the Indian Arm and Jug Island.  We caught (and released) some tiny crabs, talked to kayakers and just chilled.  As a joke, Thierry tossed a stick in quite far into the water and Whiskey actually retrieved it!  She swam out further than she’s ever been before, although it was a bit of a panicky swim back.  We were so proud!

    working on our agility (yes they made it to the top!)
    our hiking group
    Whiskey fetches and swims!
    catching small crabs
    we are going higher and higher with this little girl

    On the way back we popped into a wild game butcher for pet and human meats (kangaroo, bison, venison, elk, ostrich, wild boar).  I think we’re stocked for awhile now!  At the moment I’m trying out various foods for Whiskey so we’ll let you know how our experimentation goes.  We’ve got tons of kibble and even raw samples from Petapalooza.

    a bison heart is enormous!

    Continuing on our day, after we dropped the meat home, we took Whiskey off to the vet for her last set of shots (Rabies and Lepto).  She was amazing and even got a little handkerchief.  As long as she’s eating a snack, she doesn’t even feel the needles. So as far as Whiskey understands, the vet means lots of attention, pets, and snacks!  I wonder if she’ll wise up eventually.  The cat is under no such illusions.

    Whiskey has no idea she’s getting a shot

    After the vet, we drove to the off-leash dog area of Spanish banks where we met the cutest German Shepherd puppy.  Whiskey was pretty tired but perked up for some glorious playtime, digging and sniffing.  Then it was back home for a dinner of turkey hearts and gizzards, and we all fell asleep really early (except for Moo who then demanded attention).

    Spanish Banks has a beautiful view
    Whiskey with Nala, the German Shepherd 
    These two played rough and cute!

  • Puppy class graduate

    Puppy class graduate

    We’ve just finished our group of puppy classes at Oh My Dog.  I’m proud to say Whiskey’s improved so much over the 4 classes and was really getting the “heel, sit, stay, come here” we were working on.  ‘Heeling’ to ‘sit’ was the hardest for us since she’s not looking at me most of the time.

    This isn’t the first ‘school’ we’ve tried and it’s been a bit of a tough road the first couple of weeks.  We’ve worked so much on training at home and in the park with other dogs around, but in a small indoor room environment with other young excited puppies, Whiskey only wanted to play.

    Over the weeks though, she got better.  Her concentration capacity extended and her brains kicked in.  A couple tips that helped were

    • coming to class early so she could say hello first
    • try to get her walking at least 3 times before class with some offleash running too- get her as mellow as possible
    • from the last point, an evening class is easier than morning class
    • practicing the training everyday
    • don’t take everything the trainer says as gospel- you know your dog better so adjust
    • repetition
    • patience!

    Treats vs no treats:
    The treat class (first school we tried) emphasized the importance of treats but Whiskey wasn’t very treat motivated.  She’s a hunting dog with a drive to run, play and chase unlike a hound who may be better with treats.  In the end we found she’s much more play motivated (she will work for a stick or Frisbee) as well as agility motivated (she will interrupt play time for a chance to climb a log).  Even using different kinds of high value treats didn’t hold enough value compared to playing with the other puppies so we felt so frustrated in the first class.

    We know that working dogs are not trained with treats so we were curious to try training without treats.  Oh My Dog classes used pets, cuddles and praise of owners instead of treats.  I was pretty skeptical at first.  On top of that, there was an emphasis on only saying the command once, and then forcing the dog through the command if it didn’t volunteer the action (pushing bum down for a sit).  Bonus was the class also had less puppies enrolled and didn’t allow drop-ins  (12+ puppies vs 4).

    I have to say it was hard to stop all the treats and even harder to say the command only once (dog is usually looking away) and follow through.  My takeaway from these classes was a middle ground.  We still treat when teaching a new behavior but treat very little over time.  I still keep some treats around for a good recall in the park with other dogs, and also when playing children are around.  On top of these situations, treats are also very useful when there is a potential “scary” situation: new animals, loud noises, dremelling her nails, baths.  But overall our “treats” have been reduced from 10 treats a walk to maybe 1.  I find “play” motivation much better.

    Dogs: Morgan,Whiskey, Gus, Maple
  • Sniff training

    Sniff training

    I’m always searching for more ways to keep my little one out of trouble.  She has a super short attention span for games like fetch or simple training exercises but still has loads of energy to burn off.  I wish we could spend all day in the park, but alas…not possible!  If there was only an “off” button to these little zoomies!

    So other than long walks outside, I’ve been looking for things to get her tired inside.  We’ve trained lots of commands but can only do about 5 mins at a time.  A couple weeks ago I looked up sniff training online and decided to try.  With a smelly treat (lamb lung), I first let her sniff the snack, then used a hand towel and hid it under the edge of the towel while encouraging her to “find it”.  She started sniffing!   Yey!  I had to help her locate it the first couple times and at the end she could find it herself.

    In the beginning you’re just supposed to encourage any sniffing and help them to the treat after a couple seconds while slowly increasing the time and difficulty.  I’m not sure how much more tired she is, but it can’t hurt!  Over the past week she’s been able to “search” for longer periods of time before wandering away and giving up.  Sometimes she just loses concentration and I have to tell her to “find it” again.  Overall though she loves the game and will “work” (sit, lie down) to even play.

    When they become an expert, you can start hiding treats in a variety of easy-to reach places and then switch to hiding toys too.  I like smelly treats to start with, or large toys.  Right now I also let her watch me hide it so she knows in which area to search for.  Sometimes instead of fetch, we play the “go find it” with the toy game.  It keeps her energy levels lower and her brain working.

    at first just hide it on the edge of the towel
    over time, bring it closer to the middle and see if they can lift the towel
    learning how to get “into” the towel to find the treat
    more treats please!