There are lots of hands-free waist leashes around, but I find the simpler the better. I prefer the ones with a fast easy clip, lightweight, easy to wash, and quick to turn into a hand-leash. For dogs that chew, or larger dogs that lunge, make sure you get a thicker option with clips that withstand strength. There are many circumstances in which I only pull the waist leash out for a short road section on a trail run and want to be able to quickly clip it on and off.
I also do not like leashes that are too long, because the longer the leash, the less control you have of the dog and the harder the yank if they try and race off. For longer runs, consider a Bungee leash with a bit of give, and for short sections where you need control, consider a shorter leash without stretch. The Ruffwear options have added in a secret poop bag pocket that has saved my butt a couple times!
The lightest option, easy to throw into a pocket, or twothicker webbing, harder to chewmore economical option than ruffwearGreat bungee leash for longer leashed runs
Collar leash
These are wonderful! I love this on Whiskey because she heels offleash really well but I need a leash for very short sections (around the car, crossing roads, reactive dog, bear). This only works with a dog that has recall because the leash is short and around the dog’s neck. It’s also not good if you want to run with your dog on leash a long distance as it’s too short. This leash is ideal for short moments when you need a close ranging reliable dog in full control in seconds. You reach down and grab the handle and suddenly you have a dog on leash. Not only do you not have to carry a leash, but the size is a perfect traffic length and easy to reattach back.
Leash comes out when you pull at the velcro
Harness
I normally do not use harnesses for running. I run with my dogs mostly off-leash and I’ve taught them not to pull so they don’t strain their necks when I ask for a heel. However, there are times we run longer distances on leash and even a moderate strain on the neck is not ideal.
For dogs that need to be on-leash or dogs that pull, or a dog that might need a lift, a harness is a great tool. The Ruffwear and Hurtta harnesses have worked well for us and our friends. I would look for a large ring to clip your dog on and off (with large rings you can do it even while running), for a harness that doesn’t chaffe, one your dog cannot slip out of, and something bright.
Harness Pack
Even better than a harness, if your dog is large enough, is a harness with small pockets to carry items like poop bags, keys, cards, treats, and….dog poop! Who better to carry the poop around than your dog? Ruffwear makes this harness that has small streamlined pockets that are perfect for runs and carrying small things.
With a larger dog capable of carrying a small load, this is perfect for runs
Drybag Poop
One of the worst aspects of running with dogs is carrying and smelling dog poop on your entire run. Guess what? I’ve found the answer! The Puppouch is a drybag that keeps everything airtight (and watertight). For a better experience, throw it in your dog’s pack and you don’t even have to think about it. The only issue is forgetting about the bags until your next run! That’s right, the poop is so airtight you won’t ever smell it until you take it out again so just don’t forget about it!
A local company, and totally airtight
Lights
Running in the winter or at night (our winters have the sun setting at 3pm sometimes) needs headlamps and dog lights. Even if your dog just runs at your side, dog lights are a courtesy to everyone else that might be on a trail. It can be super scary to hear or see movement on a trail and not know it’s a dog. It’s also great to have different colors for different dogs so you can see whom is whom (and you’re not yelling at the wrong dog). I absolutely recommend dog lights for anyone taking off leash dogs outside in low light. The collars are better than single LED lights because you can see the light from all angles otherwise the dog light can disappear as your dog rotates.
Human dog hat
Running with Dogs Hat
The perfect running hat, lightweight, crushable, quick dry, airy, and washable. The best part? It comes with an option with you chasing a your dog, or your dog chasing you. Which is more accurate? You decide! In addition you’re support this blog and all my work here if you get anything from my shop 🙂 Please take a look!
Waterbowl
This has been the lightest, yet waterproof waterbowl I’ve found. It’s small but it does the job and it’s tiny fitting into any crevice or pocket.
Small light waterbowl
Musher’s Wax/ Boots
Assuming you’re not taking your dog running when the pavement is much too hot, you might still need some protective coating on dog paws that may run raw, or over short hot spots. Wax can help a dogs’ paws providing relief and a protective coating. For longer periods, injury, or hot pavement, dog boots may be needed. I’ve got an extended post on winter dog boots, but as we do not run on hot pavement in the summer, I don’t have experience on the summer dog boot options (although some of the winter dog boots are also good for summer).
Cooling Dog Vest
To help dogs that overheat in warm weather, cooling vests and bandanas can be helpful. I sometimes carry cooling bandanas in my running pack for my girls on warmer days, or I might drench their ears and paws during water breaks. Cooling vests should be a light color and keep the dog cool for longer than a bandana, however, keep watch for when the vests dry out and if your dog is still too warm. Cooling paws, ears, and throat can help during the run, but please do not go out if your dog is struggling. A cooling harness combines harness and vest. Just keep extra water when there isn’t water sources and avoid the heat if at all possible.
In areas and trails where you may be passing by others, close to roads, or in lands where others may be hunting, it is helpful to make sure your dog is easily visible. On rainy days, or in locations where my dogs blend in, I make sure I choose jackets that stand out so that people can see them from a distance and understand quickly they are dogs, not coyotes or bears. Choose a jacket or harness that stands out against your dog’s color with reflective fabrics.
Visibility vest
Running System
Because a dog pulling for a length of time on your waist will not be efficient or painless, a way to distribute the pull would be from a proper belt. To take it another step forwards you would be then going onto a full pulling system and become a canicross team. The belts help distribute the pull into your whole body and a proper harness system will reduce the yank. This is quite different than waist belts where you want your dog to run beside you, these belts have your dog running in front.
How to start, things to think about, and where to go!
I love getting outdoors with my Vizslas and when it snows, we still head out. Cross country and backcountry skiing is a really fun way to keep dogs active with you during the winter months. However, there is much more to think about in the winter with dogs, so here’s what we’ve learned.
Winter Hazards for Dogs
While the bugs and bears are sleeping and wildlife is less of a concern in the alpine, there is the looming issue of snow, cold temperatures and avalanches. There is also less sunlight so getting lost becomes much more dangerous when the temperatures dip and there are less people on the trails.
Snow and Cold
You’ll need more gear in the cold (unless you have a winter mountain dog) and snow to protect both your dog and yourself. I find myself bringing lots of layers for everyone, and also sometimes a dog sleeping bag for longer days. Here’s more on clothing and footwear for dogs in the winter. Expect to carry a larger heavier pack than the summer, and keep your dog moving to the car if you start seeing signs of shivering. It’s always a good idea to check on your dog’s paws and body throughout hikes but it’s especially important in the winter.
With deep snowpack, running through especially thick deep snow can be exhausting for dogs and hard on their joints and hips. My dogs know to run on the skin tracks or follow behind in deep snow but some dogs may run beyond what they can sustain because they’re having so much fun. Thick crusty snow that gets punched through can also cut dogs paws and legs. Legs can get very bloody if you end up in these conditions, so ask your dog to stay behind your tracks or turn back if you see their legs raw or bloody.
Tree wells
Even in mild terrain, if there’s enough snow, there are tree wells. A space of loose snow can form around tree trunks and hidden cavities can easily trap and suffocate dogs (as well as people) that fall in. I’ve heard of several dogs lost overnight when they’ve fallen into tree wells and could not get out. This isn’t just for backcountry skiing, but right off the side of cross country trails. Be aware and keep your dogs in sight at all times.
Avalanches
If you’re going into avalanche terrain, make sure you have the training! There are classes available throughout the season and it’s very dangerous to go into terrain without knowledge, gear, and a skilled group of friends. Do not put an avalanche beacon on a dog. In an event a group may be swept away, humans must be first priority and precious time spent digging out a dog instead may mean the life or death of a human. You can put a different beacon on your dog that you can track instead.
When you travel through avalanche terrain, keep your dogs in control, and in line with the pack. A dog running above may trigger an avalanche above a group of humans or may also be caught in an avalanche even if the humans have been able to avoid one. There was recently a dog rescued after 20 minutes buried in an avalanche in Colorado. Please take precautions!
Basic Commands for Skiing with a Dog
There’s a couple things I have taught my Vizslas to do when I ski with them. The first is to get out of my path when I’m going to ski right into them. GO GO GO is the command that I’m right behind and they need to move out of the way. The safest way is to practice this is during running or with cross country skis (something without sharp edges). I just speed up randomly and yell GO GO GO and run them by without hurting them. They learn really quickly to move out when they hear that!
Another important command is to “STAY BACK” and hang out behind your tracks. That can be taught on leash at first, while walking or running. I use STAY BACK often while hiking on leash and need dogs not to pull in technical terrain.
“PASS BY” is something I picked up when I was mushing in the Yukon. When two dog teams pass by each other, they need to ignore each other and keep running. “Pass by” means no greeting, no sniffing, you are passing by dogs and you are working. Again, this is best trained while running.
“STAY CLOSE” and of course full RECALL (“full” meaning the dog comes all the way back and stands by you to be leashed without you stepping forwards) is extremely important when off leash skiing. These should already be in your repertoire but make sure you have these tools before heading out! Lastly, you should be able to leash your dog while on skis at any point (wildlife, dog fight, injury, emergencies, etc) so keep a leash within easy reach.
Dog etiquette
It goes without saying (but I’ll say it anyway) pick up after your dog, especially on groomed ski tracks where someone may ski over. The poop also messes up the grooming machines and if this happens too often, dog-friendly becomes no dogs allowed quite quickly!
Keep your dogs away from leashed dogs or dogs in muzzles, and keep your dogs in the car until you’re all set to go. Off leash dogs in parking lots are super dangerous for both parties. Normally the first 5 minutes dogs are out are when they tend to poop and dog-poop filled parking lots are not fun for anyone.
Whistler Olympic Center
If you’re moving quickly, keep your dogs to the side so they don’t run into anyone else skiing in the opposite direction. Keep your dogs from just standing in the middle of a run, especially on a blind turn, and let dogs play off to the side.
Skijoring, kick sleds
I’ve never tried! I’ve trained my dogs not to pull but I know lots of people that skijor and love this sport. There’s competitions with teams, as well as bikejoring and canicross (running with dogs pulling you). Make sure you have the correct gear (not just a regular harness and leash) and see if there are classes and competitions in your area (some listed below). For even more fun, try kick sleds on tracks! The faster you go, the bigger wipeouts you’ll have, so first start running and teaching commands before you really go for it.
Dog Friendly Cross Country Skiing Trails in Canada
It’s uncommon for dogs to be allowed off leash in cross country ski areas but there are some that do! Some are of these are on-leash, some allow skijoring, and some off leash. Please do your research before going! BC and Alberta have more off leash trails and Ontario and Quebec have more skijoring trails.
There’s lots of places to go backcountry skiing with your dog. The terrain opens everything up, and basically you can go anywhere that’s not dog-prohibited. Just make sure that you have all the essentials for yourself as well as a dog.
It gets really expensive and dangerous for winter rescues so make sure you’re self sufficient. At minimum carry a satellite communication device, first aid, and have the training to be out. I really like the Whyld River down dog bags as an emergency bivy/dog bag. The XL sizes can fit both you and your dog inside should you get caught out and it packs in extra small.
as a reward for reading all this, here’s a pug in a backpack going backcountry skiing
Are you confused with the amount of options of canine jackets and sweaters available on the market? Or maybe you’ve tried several and find nothing fits your skinny long dog properly? There is such a variety of dog breeds from short and stout to long and lean and unless your dog magically fits the “standard” size it can be hard to find something that fits and stays on an athletic crazy running machine. We’ve tried so many different options and this is what I’ve learned.
Velcro vs Buckles vs Zippers
This is a big point of difference in choosing a jacket. Ideally you find a jacket with the least amount of connection/adjustment points. This can be counterintuitive as the more adjustment points, the easier it is to get a good fit right? Perhaps, they’re more adjustable, however these jackets will rub more, and will also come off easier with an active playing dog. Jackets with 3-5 Velcro panels are the bane of my existence. They look awful and these panels will come off easily over time.
Velcro is great for easy of use and quickness, for fitting different dogs without adjustment, and for not rubbing or chaffing on the pup. The downside to Velcro is that it can come off with thick brush, with deep snow collecting, and with rough play. Velcro also degrades with use, especially the cheaper Velcro (there’s a huge difference in quality) so make sure that Velcro jackets are high quality if you want them to last.
Buckles solve alot of Velcro issues such as inadvertently coming off after rubbing past bush, or a dog pulling the panel with play. Buckles snap easily and can adjust with straps. Sometimes buckles are used in conjunction with Velcro for the best of both worlds. The problem with Buckles is that they don’t have a clean profile, they can rub or get in the way with harnesses, and they’re a small point of connection so jackets have to be structured well in order for them not to unravel or lose shape.
Zippers are a very clean look and connect a large panel of fabric together. They’re wonderful not coming apart or wearing out, however they are not adjustable so the fit has to be somewhat perfect for only a zipper to be used in a jacket
Finally, there are jackets and sweaters that do not have any attachment points and depend on the jacket fitting perfectly to the dog to not fall off. I love these the best, but they are the hardest to find and fit as your dog grows and changes!
Fit for skinny dogs- length vs chest
Fitting jackets on different shaped dogs are difficult. I find most of the mass produced clothing fit a stout, somewhat rounder and and shorter dog than mine. I’ve had to find specialty dog clothing to fit my Vizslas, or just accept that the length will be shorter and the stomach panel barely covering. These jackets usually twist on the dogs as they run, or leave their backs and stomach open to the elements.
Here’s a list of dog companies that make long/skinny/lean dog jackets, many of these are custom
Our most used rain jackets and winter jackets come from this brand. They are breed-specific fits and are easy-on easy off with Velcro. There are two Velcro straps which really help keep the jacket on crazy dogs and it’s great quality (I have much experience with sewing and Velcro). The fleece is also very high quality and extra thick. No matter the amount of washing these jackets have gone through, they haven’t seemed to degrade.
Voyagers is run by an American family with the mother sewing all the jackets and they can be custom to your own dog for an extra fee. There can be added harness holes and custom shapes for an oddly shaped dog. Although puppy teeth and barbed wire will tear the fabric, it holds up much better than other cheaper jackets. *wash these jackets with tech wash
These jackets (the standard option) fit Vizslas perfectly. They also have long and lean (greyhounds) and another cut for short and broad dogs (Bullies). The jackets use both buckles and Velcro, and are quick to put on, never coming off because of the buckle. The winter option covers the front of the chest and has a fleece-lined shell for added wearability. The neck is a bit shorter and less thick fleece than Voyagers but there is the chest panel and buckle. I find the Alpine Blazer to be a great all-round jacket for those days that aren’t too cold, or too wet but just chilly enough to need a jacket.
Chillydogs Great White North Winter Dog CoatChillydogs Alpine Blazer
Hurtta is a company from Finland that have recently expanded to North America. They have some really interesting products that I haven’t seen elsewhere. I especially love the Eco line that uses 100% recycled polyester fabric. Not all Hurtta jackets fit skinny/lean/hairless dogs well but the ones that do are keepers!
Hurtta’s Expedition Parka was made especially for lean dogs without undercoats like Vizslas. The fabric hugs the dogs (vs a shell that leaves so much air between jacket and muscles) and includes adjustment points as well as a snow trap on the neck that really keeps heat in. There’s a fully chest panel, and the jacket is coated with water wicking properties (not fully waterproof but fine with snow). The jackets use only one buckle but stay in place really nicely.
Another jacket I love and use is the Extreme Overall. This one is the warmest one-piece clothing I have for the dogs. It’s good for about -15 (once it gets to -20 for 5 hours we switch to layers). The overalls take a bit of time to put the dogs in, but there’s many adjustment points and they fit the dogs well.
This is the only brand I haven’t tried but I would recommend if you’re in Europe. I’ve heard good things and they’re made specifically for the Vizsla breed.
I’ve more recently been using K9Top Coat in the winters. Because of our wet and cold climate, we’ve been using the Weatherproof Bodysuit that has the most water-repellency. I haven’t tried the other suits they make, but there are lots of options for dogs that have allergies, injuries, etc. The weatherproof suits have fitted my Vizslas very well (cut the legs off higher or they will snowball). They’re perfect for layering underneath jackets and for camping.
If style is what you’re looking for, look no further than Bravehound. These are custom made with Vizslas in mind. I sell them in my shop with the measurements taken from 100s of Vizslas in 5 sizes. The sweaters are hand-knit and stretch perfectly as the dog breathes and runs.
I’ve never been able to find a sweater that actually fit the length of a Vizsla and stretched nicely over their chests so I started bringing these in for sale. There’s a hole for a collar, and my oldest sweater is still lasting nicely, although these aren’t for rough play or running through the bush (They’ve survived all that, but I try not to!). Also machine washable (all the jackets on this list are!), and finally 100% wool.
There’s also a more fitted vest for sports in the winter and keep the dogs warm. The Bravehound wool gilet is zippered and allows for easy sprinting while keeping the dogs warm (perfect for Cross Country Skiing).
You cannot find better fitting onesies (and other shapes) as these are made custom to your dog’s size. They even have matching human hoodies if that’s your thing! Everything is custom to exactly what you want, including collar style, legs, stomach paneling (girls and boys), and fabric type and color or design. For the customization I think the pricing is extremely fair. Since there are no zippers or Velcro, these are very easy to wear, but take a bit of time to slip on. I have friends that are addicted to getting these as they’re so fun to design yourself.
Puppies
I think I found this jacket for $8 in the clearance bin and it was just fine for puppy Whiskey
For puppies I always suggest getting something second-hand to last for the first half-year. The jackets I recommend are not cheap, and unless you want to splurge (or have an ongoing amount of puppies in your household) it may not be money well spent. Puppies also have shark-teeth and are pretty unforgiving in their playing and tumbling so it can be best to wait until after they stop shredding everything in sight. Whiskey had a cheap $8 jacket that was torn and handed down to someone else after she outgrew it.
Price and Longevity
As with most things, you tend to get what you pay for. I’ve tried the cheaper mass-produced clothing out there and as well as being poorly fitted, they do not last very long. Whiskey isn’t a hard playing dog, but we’ve ripped several jackets and worn out the Velcro in others. Other times the jackets with tiny stomach panels (many just have a strap) cause the jacket to fall to one side and just get trampled or torn. I love jackets that last, fit perfectly, and look great!
Rain and Waterproofness
Voyagers k9 has the most waterproof jacket in the market
I find most jackets that are “waterproof” or “weatherpoof” will not actually keep a dog dry for 3 hours in a downpour, or wet snowfall. Now, I’m assuming most people do not take their dogs in drenching conditions hiking, but it’s a really good way to test waterproofness in dog jackets. The most waterproof Dog Jacket we’ve found is the Voyagers K9 Apparel. They’re the only ones that have stood up to pouring conditions and are still fully waterproof years later.
Since I take out multiple dogs at a time, I will use all the jackets I have, and Voyagers consistently keeps the dog dry compared to others. However, nothing will keep Bourbon warm and dry when she jumps in and swims after ducks in the winter… I also highly suggest keeping your jackets (no matter the brand) clean and using a proper “tech” wash to clean the jackets and keep them as waterproof as possible
Snow and ice
Whiskey “swimming” in powder
You make think any jacket that is warm should be fine in the snow, however I’ve found some are much better than others. If snow is going to touch the jacket, it can collect inside (especially those with dogs that like to swim in snow) and it can also cling to certain fabrics, and with body warmth, melt, then turn into ice. There are certain pieces that can freeze up and ice over rubbing the dogs as they run.
Anything with a stomach panel, especially one that covers the front of the stomach will collect snow with a swimming dog. An example is the Hurtta Expedition Parka. As much as I love this jacket, if Bourbon runs through deep snow, the snow will collect and stay in the chest, and then melt and hold iceballs next to her stomach. The Chillydogs winter jacket is similar in this way. This isn’t a problem for running around in packed snow, leashed walks, and dogs that don’t enjoy swimming.
I’ve also noticed the Hurtta Overalls legs get icy, as well as the k9topcoat weatherproof bottom legs get iced up. The best option I’ve found for cold legs that need coverage is using the backcountry gaiters.
Citywear and Loungewear
It can look ridiculous but these dogs do get cold and sweaters or onesies are really amazing! They’re wonderful underlayers, and great if you keep your dogs in a cold car for competitions or roadtrips, for car camping in the winter, cold cabin days, or just an on-leash walk in the city. Perhaps you have a calmer senior dog that chills quickly with arthritis, have a dog recovering from injury, or a dog that refuses to potty when it’s cold outside? A warm sweater or jacket can be wonderful!
Lifejackets for Dogs
There are not too many companies that make dog lifejackets, but here’s a couple to check out.
Ruffwear – Our favorite that we’re currently using, easy adjustments, hidden straps. The biggest selling point is the front strap, where most jackets are thin and can come out of place, Ruffwear has a thicker front band and the strap doesn’t chafe
Hurtta – I have not tried but I trust this company
Outward Hound – A lower price point, I just don’t love the strap system, but works great
Kurgo – I haven’t tried this one, but Kurgo is a well trusted brand
Dog Life Jackets are really area dependent (where you can buy them) but I would advise for less straps flapping around and more coverage, You want to be able to lift your dog in any position from the handle and not have your dog fall out or chafe. It’s also really helpful to have a leash attachment point. Since your dog’s life may depend on the life jacket working, I wouldn’t get something cheap off Amazon.
I’m not sure this brand as I borrowed this lifejacket but it kept Bourbon safe!
Whiskey has k9topcoat tights underneath and Bourbon has Backcountry Gaiters as well as Expedition Parka
We are masters at layering! Hiking in the mountains, and backcountry camping involves adjusting and changing to the weather. I normally carry a couple pieces of clothing for the dogs when we are backcountry camping and layer as needed. Sometimes in the winter, we will start on a warm day and the clouds and snow and wind will come in on the peak and I’ll have to redress the girls right on the trail in order for them to survive.
Do not be shy from layering, even if it looks ridiculous. I typically like a onesie/tights underneath a warm jacket, and some sort of boots if needed. Dog Googles are great if the wind really picks up and starts shooting snow at your face. If you can barely open your eyes in the wind, your dog will appreciate googles (but these do take training to wear).
One of the most interesting pieces of winter dog gear that we’ve used are the Backcountry Paws dog gaiters. Does your dog need, but lose boots all winter long? This might be for you!
Dog gaiters might look like the weirdest dog contraption but they really are quite functional and solve a couple issues I’ve found no other answers to.
Whiskey with her Backcountry Paws Dog Gaiters
The problem:
Dog booties can be necessary if your dog’s paws are too cold (say -15 degrees), or if your dog’s paws develop snowballs, or if your dog’s paws might need protection for other issues. Fast running energetic dogs lose dog booties all the time and these can be expensive! We tend to use dog booties for hikes less than 2 hours, especially if the trail is wide and easy to find missing booties.
But what do you do if you are sick and tired of losing dog boots? For those longer hikes, or when I don’t want to spend my time finding lost booties, I use these gaiters. Because the gaiters have boots attached, this makes it impossible to lose boots and voila your issue is fixed! Read on for the caveats!
Our experience:
The first time I tried Backcountry Paws gaiters, I was a bit intimidated by the straps but it was fairly straightforward and logical to put on. Whiskey is a really patient dog so she helped us both get used to the gaiters and find out together how to use them. My dogs are right between the sizing. Whiskey has a large size gaiter and Bourbon a Medium. I can fit either in either size but the medium is pretty tight on Whiskey and Bourbon swims in the Large.
The best uses of these gaiters are on packed trails or loose fresh snow no higher than the knee of the dog. They’re great for active crazy dogs that lose boots, and those that collect snowballs on their paws and lower legs. The gaiters are also good for windy days when you want the entire length of the dog’s legs to be covered. I’ve not found a long-legged bootie that my dogs actually accept and enjoy, that stays on for 4+ hours, outside of this solution.
How to put on:
Step 1: Separate the front and backAdjust and fit the front paws first
First you need to separate the front and back of the gaiters. I noramlly start with the front legs (undo the buckles to help). Place the boots atop the dog so you know where the front and back of each leg is before you start. You want to avoid putting the boot on front to back (you cannot tell outside of the top straps) so first get your placement otherwise the boot will be twisted.
Add the back section and then snap together
Once the front boots are on, you can place the back boots on and then buckle the back strap to the front section. Make sure the velcro on the boots is on very well because once you hit the snow and the velcro starts icing over, it’s much harder to redo well.
Suggestions:
For short haired dogs, I really do suggest tights on underneath. If it’s cold enough to need gaiters, you’re most likely needing a jacket for a short-haired dog and tights will help prevent rubbing. For even colder weather I put a jacket on top of the tights and gaiters (see the photo below). This is a pretty good combo for very long cold days!
Try putting the contraption on at home first. Gaiters are not the easiest to put on a very excitable dog at the trailhead, in a dark car, without help. With that said, my girls are very patient with all kinds of clothing so I’ve actually not had issues myself, but Whiskey and Bourbon are not the type of dogs to bark or run around a car excitedly at a trailhead.
Make sure the velcro is done up tight
Lastly, take the time to really look and do up the straps around the ankles well. Make sure they’re firm and tight, that the paw is entirely the way inside, and that the least amount of strap is hanging loose.
New version:
Version one of the gaiters
Backcountry paws have released version 2 of their gaiters. The first flagship product was very well made. Whiskey still uses it without issues but it’s been really nice to see the improvements. There are less hotspots to rub on the dog with the new version (I normally have the dogs in k9topcoat tights underneath so it hasn’t been an issue for us). The second big improvement are the boots. The inside doesn’t have a seam to rub, and are looking much more comfortable. If your dog has issues with hotspots, get version 2!
Downsides/Caveats
There’s been a couple downsides I’ve found with dog gaiters. First, they take a longer time and a more patient dog to put on. You need to familiarize yourself with the system and you’ll have to adjust the straps for your dog the first time, so try to do this at home.
Second, the gaiters can fill up in deep snow. If you’re snowshoeing and the snow is higher than the knee of the dog, the dog can kick up powered snow into the gaiters and then the snow goes inside and collects. Or if your dog goes swimming in powder, the tops of the legs are not sealed (there is no sealing on any dog jacket). There’s no way for the snow to come out so you’ll have to make sure that your dog isn’t walking around with a bag of snow. I have this issue more with the back legs because of the shape, and sometimes I might take off the back legs but leave the front ones for this reason.
Snowshoeing in powder led to the back legs being filled up
Third, the gaiter fit needs to be correct and I find that the paw size needs to match the leg size. For example, you buy the gaiters sized to the leg height, the bootie size may not fit perfectly (especially if your dog is shorter but has gigantic paws). So just check fit before you buy!
Have you tried these? Do you have comments? What was your experience like?
One of the questions I get the most is what dog boots I recommend for the winter. The answer is complicated. It depends on the snow you’re on, the temperature, the length of time you are outside, how deep or packed the snow is, and what type of dog you have (dewclaws? energetic? insane? eats boots?). Here’s a highly detailed answer that seeks to lay everything out to help you choose a boot.
Should Dogs Wear Boots in the Snow?
I do not put boots on my dogs unless they need it. Dogs do not need boots in all conditions and I do not pre-emptively put boots on unless I know they will need them. Dogs need to feel the ground underneath their paws in order to navigate their surroundings and boots will make them slip as well as impede on things like climbing stairs, and walking up rocks. Imagine trying to open a can with thick gloves on your hands and not being able to see them as you work. In general, I advise not to put on boots unless your dog shows you they need them, but to carry them with you in case they do. However, there are obvious situations you should put on boots.
They are injured or healing from injury
They have a history needing boots in certain situation
How do you know your dog needs boots? Mine will stop running, will lift up their paws, and will be obviously happier with the boots on zooming again once I put them on. Over time, I know that my dogs need them at -10 or lower, and I will bring them in my pack if I think we might reach those conditions (I tend to hike up mountains, so it gets colder as we ascend). Don’t forget the windchill!
Bodhi is more sensitive to the cold than my Vizslas
Dewclaws/ Small paws
One of the biggest hurdles to booties are dewclaws or if your dog has small paws (in relation to ankles) and the boots slip off easily. Even though my girls do not have these issues, this is the advice I’ve seen works. Dewclaws rub on straps, edges of boots and over time they can bleed and make boots very painful. Some boots have straps in better locations (you need to try them) but even without a strap, the inward pressure on the dewclaw and material rubbing can be painful.
If you notice this happening, use Vet Wrap (any brand will do, same used for humans) which is a self adhesive wrap under and then over the dewclaw. Do not wrap too tightly so it cuts off circulation or too loosely that it will move. It’s to prevent the dewclaw from moving too much. Then either put the boot over it, or use a sock on top.
Socks are another layer of protection for dewclaws, or dogs with paws that are too slim so boots slip off. Either with or without the vet wrap, slide the boot on, and secure with vet wrap or medical tape. Then slip the boots on top. You will need to experiment to see what works best for each circumstance.
Rubber Boots
Balloon and rubber boots have their uses but not in the backcountry. Balloons actually work well and stay on well but will not survive long on abrasive surfaces like rock. They’re better on small dogs, short works, and when salt is a problem with leashed walks around the block. They’ve been used by my friends’ Chihuahuas and Pugs, dogs that need to be carried after a certain amount of time out. The wellies are thicker and some come lined, but some dogs will not do well with the thicker sole, and the boot will not stay on an off leash dog.
Wonton is happy with his balloons to a point, then demands to be carried.
Sock boots
I do not recommend these boots for any long distance off leash running or walking. They’re best for indoors (if your dog is slipping on the floors), for smaller dogs, and those that are just going outside around the block for a potty. They will slip off with movement and are not ideal for snow.
Classic Style
I’m just going to call this type of boot the Classic style. They tend to have a soft material on the top, and a rubber sole on the bottom with a strap around the ankle. No matter what anyone says, they are not waterproof, but they’re ok with packed snow. The ankle strap can be very difficult with dewclaws and if you don’t use a sock, they can have a hard time staying on if your dog runs around off leash. A trick is to twist the boot both ways a little bit (clockwise and anticlockwse about a quarter twist) before tightening the strap.
The Classic style will wear longer than rubber or sock boots. You definitely see your money with the construction of the boot. Cheaper styles will have stitching that rubs against the dog’s paw making blisters. We’ve experienced blisters on the top of the boot, and the sides where the sole meets, as well as the ankle. You also see the pricing difference with the quality of the Velcro.
The downsides to this boot is many. No matter the brand we’ve tried, my dogs will take these off if we go for hours on a backcountry hike. The snow gathers around the opening and warms up with the temperature of the dog. The snow then turns to ice and starts rubbing at the ankles. My own dogs are hairless and the boots we have tried seem to have been made for dogs with thicker ankles so the boots don’t stay on as well. The versions with thicker soles have been the most disliked because with no feeling at the paw, they cannot scramble or climb obstacles. Last, with time our boots have worn down and the materials have peeled away.
Overall, these have their uses and I’ve used them for years. I would recommend duct taping them closed, and to a jacket if it’s possible to keep them on. They’re better for dogs that aren’t running around like crazy and I would select boots with thinner soles and a warranty.
Ruffwear Polar Trex -Thick soles with gaiters. Good idea but Whiskey didn’t like these. She couldn’t feel the ground and the gaiters took up and kept snow inside.
Canine Equipment Ultimate Trail Boots -4 different boots, L/R back sized smaller than front. Discontinued, longer review here. I liked these boots for the thinner soles, easy to put on straps and warranty that my friends had tried. Unfortunately some of the older boots I had purchased had started wearing on the top and the material split disintegrating to pieces. I’m still using whatever is left however.
Hurtta Dog boots – We used these until they broke. The fabric on the middle/center of the heel wore through and made holes. Whiskey didn’t mind these and they stayed on if you pulled the strap tightly and then wove it back through the strap in the front. Otherwise they would come off. A new version is supposed to be coming soon.
Old pair of Hurtta boots. The weak point was the velcro and where the boot joined the sole
Musher’s
This type of boot is what we used on mushing dogs while dogsledding in the Yukon. They’re very cheap, easy to put on and off, and are thin so the dogs can feel the ground. You won’t be too frustrated if you loose a couple of these but they won’t last as the fabric does wear out. These boots are good for packed snow on trails, nothing wet (or they will freeze), when you just want to keep the ice out. They’re also a very easy beginner boot if your dog is fussy about the thick soled ones with thick straps. I’ve been using these more with Bourbon because I can’t trust she won’t lose them but so far, I’ve been able to find the ones she’s “lost”.
I’ve been really liking the Nonstop booties these days. The price is reasonable and they use a higher quality velcro with a bungee that makes putting the boots on easier and tighter. The boots however do let in snow over time with deep powder and then they fill up with snow and fall off. This is normally after several hours running around. The edges also do ice over like the other boots we’ve tried, and you cannot get the boot wet or it will freeze (no running through creeks).
I’ve used the nonstop Protector Bootie as an injury bootie and I love it but it’s also not good with cold weather as it will freeze as well. It’s more protective in damper and warm conditions but I wouldn’t recommend it in the snow. With all these boots, if you can, duct tape them on!
after 2.5 hours in the snow, you can see the ice building
Soft Boots
There are all higher up the leg than some of the short Classic boots. This can be better or worse for dogs with dewclaws depending on the location of the straps. It’s better for trails where the dogs need just a bit more length so snow doesn’t fill in, but can be worse if the snow does fill in and collects to make ice balls. Like all the other styles, the quality (and usually price point) does make a difference for sewing and materials used.
The downsides to these boots are they slip down my dogs’ legs. The velcro is never going to hold through all the movement and I haven’t found one with higher quality velcro and many straps. The seams are an edge around the sides of the paw and also rub the paws over time. The snow collects around the rim and will fill into the boot and then freeze when the dog’s body warms the snow into ice. Duct tape can solve most of these issues!
Muttluks– I like Muttluks as an emergency bootie but the straps aren’t great so I duct tape them to Bourbon’s paws. They’re also all the same size so looser fit in general.
Voyager K9 Apparel– the highest boot and better for shorter walks, not major hiking because the fabric is not waterproof.
Neoprene Options
Great because snow does not stick to Neoprene and even when wet, Neoprene will hold in heat (it’s what wetsuits are made out of to keep people warm in the water). Not great because it’s very thick material and if your dog needs the feel the ground or any kind of technical surface they will probably not like it (Whiskey struggled). With dogs that do not mind a thick sole, these might be a good option.
Neopaws – a huge variety of sizes and orthopedic options, but very thick sole
For snow that’s a bit higher but NOT very deep snow. Gaiters will fill with deep snow if there isn’t a seal on the boots and snow will just fill in and collect with no way out (we’ve experienced this and took them off in deep snow). Otherwise it’s great because you can’t lose the boots. They’re complicated to put on, but I used them on both dogs without issues or complaints. Backcountry Paws seems to be constantly out of stock, but I would recommend them if they were possible to order. Contrary to what you might think, I would recommend them for more packed trails so snow won’t get in, or for dogs that won’t go swimming in deep snow.
If your dog is gathering snowballs or is picking ice off his paws, Wax is a great solution that does not involve losing boots. Trim the hair as much as you can around and under their paws, and apply Musher’s wax (in the car right before you head out). It’s easier to apply the wax when it’s not frozen, and you do not want to get wax on your car, or let your dog lick it off on the ride so just before you run is best. I apply it to my dogs just as a protective layer if I think we are close to their comfortable exposure temperature -5 to -10 in order to increase their ability to run without boots. My girls don’t ball up or collect ice with their silky hair but the wax does help protect their paws slightly.
paw Pup Wax – use after out for a long time or exposure to salt
Musher’s wax -works if your dog isn’t cold but gets ice balls around the long hairs between their paws (first would be to cut them shorter). They also do protect for a couple degrees difference (say if your dog needs boots at -5 degrees this might help make a 4 degree difference) and against salt but it does wear off. It it on right before you get out of the car when it’s slightly warmer as I’ve had a harder time when the wax is frozen.
Already have a human first aid kit for hiking and camping? Wondering what ELSE you might need for your dog? There’s no need to double up commercial first-aid kits for you and your pup as most elements can be shared but there are some extras to bring and take into consideration. The dog-specific pieces can also be shared with humans and you might find them quite useful!
Listed in detail below, some items that are good to have at home, in the car, on the trail
Whiskey and I have been hiking since she was a puppy and with the addition of Bourbon, we’ve had to deal with lots of minor issues while in the backcountry and on roadtrips without reception or vets nearby. Even at home, we’re able to deal with minor emergencies without having to pay for a vet visit.
When I’m hiking I always have a small first-aid kit and I add extra pieces depending on the length of the hike and the risk factors as well as the size of the pack I’ll be taking. I’ve never seen most of these products listed in ready-made canine first-aid kits that you can purchase so I thought this list might be good for people that are active and in the wilderness with their dogs.
Consider where you are going, the environment and temperature, as well as any medical issues your own dog might have. Always bring extra clothing for warmth, and shade. And let me know in comments on anything I may have missed!
Trail Dog First Aid Checklist
Items in your Human First-Aid Kit should have that can be shared with your Pet
Gauze
Adhesive tape
Swabs
Ice Pack
Scissors/ knife
Gloves
Bandages
Alcohol wipes
Saline
Tweezers
Headlamp/flashlight
Splint
Eye wash- non medicated eyewash can be used on dogs
Polysporin/ antibiotic ointment
All-purpose skin soother -Skincare for sunburns, rashes, chapped lips, bug bites, and healing cuts and scrapes
water-proof bag
towel
This is minimum what I carry in my daypackThis all fits into a small bag in previous photo called “first aid kit”
Trail Specific First Aid Kit Items
Blister Packs
Zip Ties
Lighter
Water Purification Tablets
Emergency Blanket
Electrolyes
Multi-use tool/ Swiss Army Knife
Trail Dog First Aid Kit additions
Benedryl (Diphenhydramine), Reactine (Cetirizine)– Pills are the most used item in my first-aid (human or dog). These I use for any allergic reaction including bug bites
Tick remover– if you have a chance of ticks in the area, clearly also for humans
Tweezers– very useful with the tick remover but also splinters, cactus spines, shards of things that get imbeded
Pup Wax -nose and paw wax balm for dogs, I use this nightly when hiking on boulder fields and the paws are about to be cracked (or are already cracked) to keep them moisturized as well as dry noses
Dr Dobias Skin Spray– Wonderful for skin scrapes and closed wounds as well as insect bites. Also great on humans
EMT Gel– Fantastic for paw cracks and tears in the skin. I was able to stave off Bourbon’s paw fully cracking with this gel, pupwax, wrapping and a bootie while hiking for 8 days in a row.
Duct Tape– as much as the adhesive tape in a regular first-aid kit might help humans, I’ve found Duct Tape is very helpful for dog patients. It’s also wonderful for fixing gear that breaks and holding boots in place for crazy running Vizslas.
Superglue– or stapler but superglue is much smaller to carry on treks out (many of my friends will carry a stapler to staple wounds)
Dog-friendly bug/tick spray– I’m still working on finding the magical dog-friendly bug spray but I’ve used Cedarwood-based, citronella based, and I would like to try PERMETHRIN next. Regardless, throw a pet-friendly spray in
Emergency Bootie– slightly larger size than usual, universal boot (not left/right) to accommodate bandages underneath if needed. I use muttlucks and duct tape this one when needed.
Hydrogen Peroxide– to in duce vomiting immediately after ingesting a non-corrosive poison (do not induce vomiting if you think it might be corrosive), commonly while hiking, if your dog eats mushrooms, or human feces that may be laced with drugs, anything that may have drugs (including edibles), poisoned meat, etc
Activated Charcoal+ powdered milk– if your dog has eaten something and is reacting (you did not induce vomiting in time) already reacting to the effects. I add the milk to make it more palatable and it also coats the stomach to prevent absorption while the charcoal works to bind the poison. Mix with water into a paste with a syringe pump or bowl if your dog will eat it.
Vet Wrap– Extremely useful for paw injuries, holding bandages in place, or sprains. I use it for myself when I consistently sprain my ankle. Sticks to itself and is non-adhesive to anything else. Also useful for boots and harnesses that rub.
Gravol/Famotidine– Whiskey has a sensitive stomach so this is more Whiskey-specific. When her stomach is very gurgling and she’s not wanting to eat, I give her Famotidine and it settles. Whatever drugs your dog may need, of course, bring some in your first aid kit
Emergency leash/ Rope + carabiner– leashes and collars break or get lost, an extra rope can really help, be made into a quick harness, or help muzzle a dog in pain.
Dog sling/bag/ability to carry out an injured pet– depending on the size of your dog, whom with, and where you are going, make sure you have the ability to carry your dog out
Bandana or cloth– you may need to drench a piece of cloth in water to cool a dog down, and emergency it can be very helpful to cover your dog’s eyes, or muzzle your dog while working on an injury, especially if you are alone
DO NOT SHARE
Be cautious of these items and research ahead of time if the ones in your kit are dog-friendly or not
medications– some medications can be shared with your dog, and some not. Make sure you have an understanding of the dosage and which are poisonous, this includes medicated eyedrops creams/oils– some ingredients that can be used for humans like certain essential oils can be dangerous for dogs bug spray– DEET is poisonous to dogs, even while spraying, make sure your dog is upwind sun screen– Many types of sunscreen are potentially toxic if if a dog licks it off
Camping with dogs can mean freedom and an escape from the city, but it can also have it’s own complications, especially if it’s your first time or you camp solo. A good tent can really ease the transition and prevent accidents that might happen. There is a large variety of tents prices to go with those and since this your “home” while outdoors, it really is worth choosing wisely.
Prepare
So you want to go camping but your dog’s never been in a tent? After you purchase one, it’s a good idea to set it up at home, or in the backyard and take a nap together inside. Work on going in and out with treats and teach your pup it’s a good place. Check out this other post I wrote about first time camping with a dog and things to think about, as well as how to introduce the tent. Just please do not zip your dog inside the tent alone unless your dog is very chill, trained, and calm.
Whiskey with my 1ppl Big Agnes UL fishhook- there are no zippers
A Large Doorway
When choosing a tent, look for a larger doorway. Doorways that are small and narrow will be difficult to get in and out when you are stepping over a sleeping pup, and can be frustrating at night. You want a good zipper that doesn’t snag, and ideally several options to open it quickly from inside and out. It’s great to have space to put a towel on the ground to clean paws before they jump onto your sleeping bag, and also space to put shoes, a bag, easy access to leashes. Finally you want to have a wide sightline outside for your dog, approaching animals, and anything else. The more animals you have, the more you will appreciate a wide entryway.
I’ve now upgraded to a larger 2ppl Nemo Dragonfly tent with 2 dogs
Mesh
I cannot stress to you how much a good quality mesh is important with dog nails. UL or Ultra lightweight tents sacrifice tough materials including mesh for weight so it’s easier to carry but this lightweight mesh is very easy to puncture. Whiskey likes to “paw” at the doorway to enter and my heavier tents have withstood this. There are many snags in the mesh, but no holes but I’ve heard so many dogs ruining the popular UL Hubba Hubba mesh trying to jump out at the wrong moment.
This Marmot Ajax 3ppl tent is well over a decade old and still going
Freestanding
Some tents, especially lightweight tents can be non-freestanding where you need to stake lines in order to create the tent shape. They prioritize weight over convivence and can also use trekking poles as tent poles. I don’t recommend these for dogs for several reasons. The more lines you have running from the tent, the more entanglement you’ll get with legs and leashes. Bourbon seems to have fun pulling out pegs on my last trip and the inside of my tent tends to wander with two dogs so a strong, freestanding tent is my goal. If your tent structure goes down every time a stake gets pulled, it could get frustrating! These tents also take longer to set up and especially with multiple dogs, rain, and wildlife, you just might want to have less complications in life! Lastly, I camp in rocky locations and places where pegging isn’t really an option, so a freestanding tent is a must.
Group 8 day backpacking trip
Pockets
I LOVE pockets! Pockets in tents are amazing. There’s always collars, leashes, sprays, towels, and a multitude of things that need to be packed away in it’s own place. I always put my headlamp, dog collars, and first aid things right next to my head. Pockets are also great for drying out whatever the dogs get muddy, and keeping the tent floor from becoming a huge mess when they start digging into your sleeping bag.
My cheaper, heavier tent withstood the snow and wind better than the UL tents my friends had
Footprint/Flooring
Buy it, use it! Spend the extra cash for a footprint and use it, or a tarp is just as good. A thicker tent may not need a footprint (I don’t always use one myself when it’s dry) but lighter tents will need one and it will keep your tent lasting longer and dryer and prevent abrasions from rocks and dog paws digging.
I suggest a footprint with snow or wet ground
Single/Double wall
Some lighter tents or cheaper tents may be single-walled. They tend to be solid so water does not go through but if pressed, water will condense through. These will not be as ventilated as double walled tents that will have mesh as an inner layer with a waterproof fly. I highly suggest double walled tents. Many dogs will like to lay in a corner of the tent pushing against the tent walls and if it’s a single layer, can bring water in. The single layer laminated wall is also the only layer between you and the elements so if it rips, you will need to pray you have enough duct tape! When the weather gets too warm or stuffy, it’s also nice to be able to take off the rainfly and let the tent air out or even enjoy the stars! But if your dog isn’t feeling safe open to the elements (many dogs feel uneasy) you can put the fly back on and create a closed off den.
This is a cheaper Coleman 6ppl tent we car-camped out of for a month and half
Car Camping
With weight not a problem, I would suggest a large tent you can stand inside (check the height) and a second-hand or affordable one. You don’t need lightweight, and most tents these days are made well enough to withstand wind, rain, and typical use. The ability to stand-in and change or wrangle dogs without kneeling is SO helpful. Unless you’re camping more than 30 days a year, most cheaper tents will work just fine. We forgot our tent on our trip to Alaska and bought a cheap Coleman tent at Canadian Tire that lasted the entire trip fine under all weather and even crazy winds. With cheap tents, expect to replace pegs and take a little bit extra time to put together. The poles may have cheaper elastic but that’s also easily fixed with duct tape. Our North Face tent was much better made and still survives to this day, but it’s heavier (better fabric), packs easier, and has better zippers. If this is your first time out camping, put your money elsewhere (like a good mat!).
This is my 4ppl Northface tent for car-camping that you can stand up in
Backcountry Camping
This is where weight and packability matters. For most brands, there are UL tents of various sorts and a cheaper line of tents. Even though the UL tents tend to be more expensive, I do not suggest them because the material is easier to break and do not stand up to dog use well. Unless you have one well trained dog and weight is of utmost importance, I would suggest a heavier, cheaper tent and take on the extra 2lbs it may weigh. Either way, bring some duct tape on your trip in case something rips open and a big scoop of good humor! Camping with dogs is always interesting!
A double walled tent allows you to take off the fly and enjoy the stars and breeze
We’ve used the Marmot Ajax 3ppl tent for 2 of us and Whiskey for well over a decade. I’ve got a UL 1ppl tent for solo camping that’s only 2 lbs (it’s the Fishook tent with no zipper) but that would be too tight with 2 dogs, camera gear, and clothing. I still carry the 3ppl 6lb tent when just solo camping with Whiskey sometimes because it’s just so much more comfortable if the conditions are rainy. Being stuck in a 1ppl tent for a rainy evening or afternoon is SO uncomfortable and I would rather carry weight than be stuck in an awkward tight position. Researching further I just ordered the Nemo 2ppl tent as my new solo tent and I’ve been considering the Copper Spur 3ppl tent as a new 3ppl option but am holding back due to the flimsy material and huge cost. I think if I’m sharing a tent, then sharing the load would be acceptable.
My heavier Marmot swallow 3ppl tent for winter camping
Winter Camping
I haven’t done too much backcountry snow camping but I did buy a heavier vintage tent for the purpose. It’s very warm, with loads of venting options, space, and can seal up tight if needed. Winter tents that are light are very expensive, so vintage was the way to go! Even though it’s not the latest tech, the huge zippers, heavy mesh make me so comfortable with dogs running in and out. The last time I used the tent it was actually too warm in the morning, and I haven’t found too many friends that want to winter camp so I just haven’t had the opportunity to use this one too often.
FAQ
What’s the best backcountry tent for 1 person and a dog?
I would suggest a stand-alone, double walled, cross-bar 1 or 2 person tent to share with a dog. Crossbar tents are quick and easy to set up with a large door and slightly thicker mesh (not super UL). Make sure the zipper is well made and does not snag.
What’s the best car camping tent for dogs?
If you are starting out, get something that is easy for one person to set up (unless you always camp with multiple people)
I’ve been using and trying boots on our girls for years and wanted to share an updated revision of my last review here. Many of the older boots are no longer in production but you can still get them used and there are very similar copies out there with the same benefits and issues. I’ve grouped the boots into categories that I’ve made notes on. Please let me know what you think! These are based soley on my opinion and nothing more. My girls do not have dewclaws, and are short-haired Vizslas.
Dewclaws/ Small paws
One of the biggest hurdles to booties are dewclaws or if your dog has small paws (in relation to ankles) and the boots slip off easily. Even though my girls do not have these issues, this is the advice I’ve seen works. Dewclaws rub on straps, edges of boots and over time they can bleed and make boots very painful. Some boots have straps in better locations (you need to try them) but even without a strap, the inward pressure on the dewclaw and material rubbing can be painful.
If you notice this happening, use Vet Wrap (any brand will do, same used for humans) which is a self adhesive wrap under and then over the dewclaw. Do not wrap too tightly so it cuts off circulation or too loosely that it will move. It’s to prevent the dewclaw from moving too much. Then either put the boot over it, or use a sock on top.
Socks are another layer of protection for dewclaws, or dogs with paws that are too slim so boots slip off. Either with or without the vet wrap, slide the boot on, and secure with vet wrap or medical tape. Then slip the boots on top. You will need to experiment to see what works best for each circumstance.
Classic
These boots are the classic ones I see. They tend to have a soft material on the top, and a rubber sole on the bottom with a strap around the ankle. No matter what anyone says, they are not waterproof, but they’re ok with packed wetter snow. The ankle strap can be very difficult with dewclaws and if you don’t use a sock, they can have a hard time staying on if your dog runs around off leash. A trick is to twist the boot both ways a little bit (clockwise and anticlockwse about a quarter twist) before tightening the strap.
Ruffwear Polar Trex -Thick soles with gaiters. Good idea but Whiskey didn’t like these. She couldn’t feel the ground and the gaiters took up and kept snow inside.
Canine Equipment Ultimate Trail Boots -4 different boots, L/R back sized smaller than front. Discontinued, longer review here. I liked these boots for the thinner soles, easy to put on straps and warranty that my friends had tried. Unfortunately some of the older boots I had purchased had started wearing on the top and the material split disintegrating to pieces. I’m still using whatever is left however.
Hurtta Dog boots – We used these until they broke. The fabric on the middle/center of the heel wore through and made holes. Whiskey didn’t mind these and they stayed on if you pulled the strap tightly and then wove it back through the strap in the front. Otherwise they would come off. A new version is supposed to be coming soon.
Expawlorer Amazon dog boots -All these Amazon boots look like they’re made in the same factory with different names. They seem decent for the low price, ok for dogs without dewclaws walking on leash in packed snow or the city. Depending on your dog’s paws they may stay on for play, or they may not!
Old pair of Hurtta boots. The weak point was the velcro and where the boot joined the sole
Musher’s
This type of boot is what we used on mushing dogs while dogsledding in the Yukon a decade ago. They’re very cheap, easy to put on and off, and are thin so the dogs can feel the ground. You won’t be too frustrated if you loose a couple of these but they won’t last as the fabric does wear out. These boots are good for packed snow on trails, nothing wet (or they will freeze), when you just want to keep the ice out. They’re also a very easy beginner boot if your dog is fussy about the thick soled ones with thick straps
after 2.5 hours in the snow, you can see the ice building
Non-stop Dog Wear -my current favorite for cross country skiing. Even in -20 degrees on a packed trail my girls have not complained and are happy to run. They will not protect as much from direct cold as a thicker sole and does collect ice around the ankles after a couple hours.
Higher boots
There are all higher up the leg than some of the short boots. This can be better or worse for dogs with dewclaws depending on the location of the straps. It’s better for trails where the dogs need just a bit more length so snow doesn’t fill in, but can be worse if the snow does fill in and collects to make ice balls.
Muttluks– I like Muttluks as an emergency bootie but the straps aren’t great so I duct tape them to Bourbon’s paws. They’re also all the same size so looser fit.
Voyager K9 Apparel– the highest boot and better for shorter walks, not major hiking
Great because snow does not stick to Neoprene and even when wet, Neoprene will hold in heat (it’s what wetsuits are made out of to keep people warm in the water). Not great because it’s very thick material and if your dog needs the feel the ground or any kind of technical surface they will probably not like it (Whiskey struggled).
Neopaws – a huge variety of sizes and orthopedic options, but very thick sole
For snow that’s a bit higher but NOT deep snow. Gaiters will fill with deep snow if there isn’t a seal on the boots and snow will just fill in and collect with no way out (we’ve experienced this and took them off in deep snow). Otherwise it’s great because you can’t lose the boots. They’re complicated to put on, but I used them on both dogs without issues or complaints. Backcountry Paws seems to be constantly out of stock, but I would recommend them if they were possible to order. Contrary to what you might think, I would recommend them for more packed trails so snow won’t get in, or for dogs that won’t go swimming in deep snow.
paw Pup Wax – use after out for a long time or exposure to salt
Musher’s wax -works if your dog isn’t cold but gets ice balls around the long hairs between their paws (first would be to cut them shorter). They also do protect for a couple degrees difference (say if your dog needs boots at -5 degrees this might help make a 4 degree difference) and against salt but it does wear off. It it on right before you get out of the car when it’s slightly warmer as I’ve had a harder time when the wax is frozen.
Do you love getting out and adventuring with your dog but you just wish there was that one piece of gear to make it all easier? Perhaps your dog is slightly injured, has allergies, or keeps building up ice on their boots? Here’s a list of specialized dog gear that you might find useful!
Musher’s Secret: Use paw wax in place of winter booties. Originally designed for sledding dogs, this wax can help prevent snowballing, salt, ice build-up, hot sand and pavement. I do find the wax wears off during a walk or hike so you’ll need several applications over the day but it’s a great option to booties.
Bodhi wearing the downpour suit with integrated bug repellant
Sun and Bug Blocker Hurtta: A bodysuit with UPF 40 and bug repellent built in! Great if your dog loves to camp but is severely allergic to mosquitoes, ticks or horseflies. Or perhaps your dog has recent surgery and needs to stay out of the sun! There are also vests and a Downpour suit that has permethrin imbedded in it should you need a warmer or other option.
Whiskey in her Whyld River sleeping bag
Whyld River Sleeping Bag: A sleeping bag designed to separate, clip in, or permanently toggle each section for maximum flexibility. The snaps will pop off if your dog wants out, but if you want to keep it closed even if your dog moves, use the toggles. We helped design this bag and love and use it! Discount code: WHISKEY10
Neopaws Boots with loads of sizes made of neoprene
Neopaws Orthopedic Boots: orthopedic winter boots with support that are made out of Neoprene, good even for water use! You can even buy insoles to adjust the height of each boot so you can take your older pup out for walks without pain.
Neopaws Gaiters: Dog gaiters/boot covers to prevent snow/ice buildup on dog boots.
Dog gaiters with boots attached
Backcountry Paws Gaiters: Dog gaiters with boots attached. We love these and use them all the time under a jacket because there’s no more chances of losing a boot! A little complicated to put on but well worth not having to worry about and search for a lost bootie.
Ruffwear Doubleback Harness: a Belay specialized harness for climbing and repelling. This full body dog lifting harness is for crag dogs that love to follow their owners everywhere. It’s the only harness I’ve seen that has the back leg loops and specifically made for climbing.
Ear Pro: Dog hearing ear protection Designed for working military dogs, these are great for noise sensitive pups, or dogs living in and working in loud environments to help prevent hearing loss.
Rex Specs googles
Rex Specs: Dog eye protection We love these goggles to protect eyes from high winds (on a motorcycle), extreme cold, hunting in bush, eye injuries, sun glare, and other medical needs. With 5 sizes the goggles cover most sizes and look awesome.
No Flap Ear Wrap: Dog ear injury protection Dog ear injuries take forever to heal and can bloody your walls quickly. Keep your dog’s ear protected and dry with this Ear Wrap.
