Category: Health and Wellness

  • Vizsla Basics: 101 Guide to Everything You Need to Know

    Vizsla Basics: 101 Guide to Everything You Need to Know

    Here’s the Vizsla basics, the Vizsla FAQs, the starting block, the page that answers questions about the Hungarian Vizsla you didn’t know you would be asking

    Breed: What is a Vizsla?

    Where is a Vizsla from?

    Vizslas originated from Hungary and is their national dog. They’re from the Magyar tribes, then owned by warlords and then the aristocracy (sometimes they’re called the Magyar Vizsla). The noble dog almost went extinct after civil and world wars and were thankfully saved and are now very popular with a devoted following in both Europe and North America (as well as Australia). Vizslas are one of the best pointer-retriever dogs that need to be part of the family and does not do well living in a kennel.

    What is a Vizsla a mix of?

    Vizslas are one of the oldest breeds and have actually been used in development of other breeds. Weimaraners, German Shorthaired Pointers, and many other breeds have had the Vizsla bloodlines to thank.

    Vizslas in show

    Can you get a miniature Vizsla?

    No, Vizslas are only recognized in one size and are bred to a standard. Here’s more information about the breed standard and what ethical breeders aim for. There are variations of course, and dogs that are larger or smaller in certain litters.

    What group does Vizslas belong to?

    Vizslas are part of the Sporting Group. Sporting dogs are well rounded companions. Vizslas are extremely versatile dogs that are used for hunting, various dog sports, rescue work, detection, and therapy. They are natural pointers and retrievers.

    Vizslas are bred to hunt, point and retrieve

    Are Vizslas hypoallergenic?

    No, in short they are not but they do not shed very much and their hair does not clump up in visible balls. Overall the breed does not produce a high amount of allergens compared to other breeds but some allergic people can tolerate these dogs.

    What size is a Vizsla? How much does a Vizsla weigh?

    Here’s a detailed blogpost I wrote about the size and weight of Vizslas

    Vizslas are beautiful dogs and a medium size, the smallest of the pointers

    What is the life expectancy of a Vizsla?

    Vizslas tend to live from 12-15 years. They’re overall a healthy breed, although this will vary depending on the breeder. Please find an ethical breeder that breeds for health (both physical and mental).

    How fast is a Vizsla?

    Vizslas have been said the be the second fastest breed (to greyhounds) depending on what you read. Individuals have been clocked at 40mph/65kmph! Vizslas are even faster than other breeds over uneven ground. No matter the exact speed and how they’ve been calculated, Vizslas are extremely fast dogs and have the endurance that greyhounds do not. This makes for great difficulty and can be dangerous if you do not have the ability to recall your dog. On the other hand, they’re wonderful for active runners, bikers, and hikers.

    Do Vizslas eyes stay blue? When do Vizslas eyes turn brown?

    No, Vizsla puppies are born with blue eyes that turn green, then finally amber. The full amber coloring may come quicker at 6 months or take up to 2 years. Ask your breeder about the parents and you might have a better idea of the timing although grown does also depend on the health of the dog.

    blue-green eyes will change to amber

    Vizsla Temperament

    Where do you buy a Vizsla? How do I get a Vizsla?

    Typically there are the choices of a breeder, or a rescue. I really don’t recommend a rescue unless you have experience with dogs, especially this breed if the rescue is showing behavioral issues. I do see rare cases of young Vizslas being given up because they are too energetic or senior Vizslas because they’re just no longer wanted. Well bred Vizslas should go back to their breeders to be rehomed but it’s not always the case. If you’d like a Vizsla puppy, a breeder would be where to look and here’s more on finding a breeder.

    Alpine Vizslas where I got my puppy from

    Do Vizslas bond to one person? Do they have a favorite person?

    I don’t typically see this as the case, although if one person is the main caretaker and trainer, it would be logical for the Vizsla to bond better with that person. It’s typical of the breed, and my own dogs to love people and for them to gravitate towards people, even strangers if they seem friendly.

    Do Vizslas fetch?

    Vizslas are bred to point and retrieve although not all puppies will have a natural fetch. Some may, and others might have to be taught. Whiskey did not naturally fetch but once I taught her, she became obsessed. Bourbon will only fetch when she thinks it’s her idea to play a game inside the house.

    Will my Vizsla run away?

    What is “running away”? Like most hunting breeds, Vizslas tend to have prey drive and are interested in tracking scents. They are friendly social dogs that do like to say hi to other people and other dogs and explore their environment. As an intelligent and energetic breed, Vizslas can get bored and lonely and find their fun elsewhere. Vizslas can also fixate on prey and chase deer, birds, or other prey for long distances. Lastly Vizslas are a sensitive breed that can have anxiety or be frightened if not properly socialized to sounds or events and run off to escape, or to find their owners if separated. So, yes there reasons that a Vizsla may leave you, it is a matter of understanding why, and mitigating the issues.

    Do Vizslas whine alot?

    Vizlsas are intelligent, opinionated, sensitive, and affectionate. If they are not receiving the attention or treats, or life that they feel like they need, they will inform you so. My two girls rarely whine, we have a communication between us that is clear and does not involve whining but if I encouraged it, I’m sure there would be much whining in the house!

    What food is best for a Vizsla? What should I feed my Vizsla?

    Food is such a hot topic! There is kibble (and a HUGE variety of quality and types), canned food, home-cooked, commercial raw food, and DYI raw food. There’s also lots of options in-between. My suggestion is to ask your breeder, your vet, experienced owners with a history of healthy dogs, canine dietitians and research scientifically peer reviewed papers. Lastly, know and see what works with your dog. If the poop is mush, if the coat is dull, skin is itchy, and the energy level low, there is a problem. Don’t feed something your dog does not digest well, even if it’s the most recommended food of the month. Feed what your dog does well on, what you can afford, and you can always throw in some healthy leftovers too!

    Food is very dependent on your personal decisions

    How long until Vizslas are grown adult dogs?

    Vizslas are pretty much physically fully grown at 1.5-2 years old. However, sometimes their brains take a bit longer to catch up. Some Vizslas take longer to mentally mature than others. My eldest Vizsla was a super mature puppy that had the temperament of a senior. My youngest Vizsla Bourbon is still puppy-brained at 2.5 years old (although sometimes she seems like an adult, other times she’s full puppy).

    What’s wrong with my Vizsla?

    Is my Vizsla depressed?

    Has there been a large change in your Vizsla’s temperament? If your habits have not changed, take stock of what may have changed. Vizslas are very sensitive to emotions and their environment and can pick up on changes you may not realize. If you’re certain nothing has changed but your Vizsla is not eating, low energy, shaking, or scared, or just not loving life like before, perhaps it’s time to go to the vet.

    Vizslas are very emotive

    Why does my Vizsla grumble?

    Vizlsas are intelligent, opinionated, sensitive, and very needy. They love to communicate their needs and wants and can sometimes be considered a very “human” dog. Look into their eyes and see their expressions and tell me you cannot tell what they’re thinking! Vizslas grumble and talk to communicate with you and others.

    Why is my Vizsla shaking?

    Assuming your Vizsla is not shivering (this breed only has one coat of hair so gets cold very quickly), there can be many reasons your dog is shaking. Fear is usually the most obvious one, followed by anxiety. Sensitive individuals will shake more than others. Bourbon, my youngest shakes all the time. She shakes when she’s scared (when there’s a loud BANG), when she anticipates something bad happening (when we go to do her nails), and when there’s too much pressure put on her and she is not comfortable (at a competition or at a new equipment). Bourbon’s also noticed that when she shakes, she gets love and attention from humans, so sometimes she shakes to avoid working, to get what she wants, and to manipulate strangers into liking her and giving her attention. This last point is not very typical of the breed, but it is my experience!

    Do Vizslas bite?

    Any dog can bite if cornered and pushed to it’s limits. Vizslas are not known as an aggressive breed that have bite issues however, but any anxious fearful dog that is abused or at it’s limits without other options (like running away) may potentially bite. Poorly bred Vizslas can have aggression in their bloodlines (I’ve known of several), and Vizslas that have had trauma and have been previously attacked can also bite.

    When do Vizslas stop chewing?

    Assuming we are speaking about puppy chewing, the sharkies usually end once the adult teeth have come in. Here’s a diary of my experience.

    How do I wear out my Vizsla?

    Vizslas are one of the most energetic breeds, so hopefully you have selected this breed because you wanted the energy! There’s usually two routes to go and much in-between. There is the physical route, where you can run your Vizsla, and the mental where you can train your Vizsla. Interestingly enough, my Vizslas tired out much quicker from engaging in mental training over physical. Of course there are lots of activities that bridge both, like agility, or search and rescue, so the options really are endless. My advice is to get two things done at once. If you need to tire a Vizsla out that is in recovery or injured, do some canine conditioning with target plates or wobble boards to increase strength at the same time. If you have a young healthy Vizsla, work on recall with a long line around other dogs, or people or even birds.

  • I Hate My Vizsla- Suggestions and Solutions

    I Hate My Vizsla- Suggestions and Solutions

    Do you hate your Vizsla? Think you made a mistake? Guess what? It’s one of my most searched Vizsla terms and it’s not uncommon.

    First, please ask your breeder for help and see if there are any genetic issues at play. Next, make sure your dog is healthy and there are no health issues (dogs will pee in the house or become aggressive have an infection, or are in pain for example). Outside of that, here are some common issues:

    Peeing Everywhere

    Do you have a fresh puppy that just pees inside? Maybe you take her outside for half an hour to potty and she just goes as soon as you get inside? Or maybe it’s raining outside and there’s absolutely no way anything will happen outside? There’s a ton of videos and writeups about how to housetrain a puppy but what you really need is patience. This rare commodity seems extremely unlikely as you spray buckets full of odor remover, buy paper towels in Costco amounts and stand outside in the rain for 30mins at 2am with an umbrella because your puppy just will *not* go.

    It gets better. The description was Whiskey when we lived in an apartment and I had to run down the apartment 3x a night, in the rain, in my PJs. It felt like it took forever while other puppies never had a mistake at home. We had the bell, I would stand with treats, being very boring until she went, and celebrated every time. But guess what? It still took 3 months but since then, there’s never been a mistake. You’re not alone! But it’s a stage that does pass.

    Bourbon with the spray and wipes that we needed

    Puppy Sharkies

    This is the biggest complaint! So many people think they’ve made the biggest mistake when they bring home the cutest puppy imaginable only for that puppy to turn into a shark. It’s called the sharkies when they bite, rip, and attack all moving things with their sharp puppy teeth and ruin shirts, jewelry, furniture, other dogs, and your own skin.

    It’s not an understatement to say sharkies HURT! You wonder why you ever thought this was a good idea, and if they’ll just “grow out of it”. Also, a sharp scream and pulling your hand back whining (to show you are hurt) doesn’t seem to stop the devil. In fact, screams and loud NOs seem to urge the little monster to attack even more!

    Puppies are SO cute but the devil sometimes

    Diverting those sharp teeth to a toy or chew is essential for your survival. I had a bunch of different textured toys and soft chews all over my house, ready to pick up and exchange for my arm. As soon as the teeth touched skin while we played, I would replace with a toy. Play with your puppy using your toys, not your hands! One of the best chew toys are cardboard boxes leftover from Amazon orders. Your house may look like a mess but you’ll save your clothing, furniture, and skin.

    Leaving the litter too soon may also make it harder for your puppy to have a softer mouth when playing. Littermates help puppies learn what is acceptable, as well as older puppy-friendly dogs. Whiskey was really instrumental in helping Bourbon learn what is appropriate play and what was not. If your Vizsla puppy has had enough play, and still insists on attacking you, you have to teach them to settle (self control, and learning their “off” button).

    Inability to Settle Inside

    Does your Vizsla have an off switch? Does your dog just go go go zooming around the house, destroying toys, clothes, and furniture along the way? Maybe he’s running laps jumping off the walls and attacking your other dogs?

    Not all breeds can easily do this, but Vizslas have a genetic predisposition to have an off switch. Herding dogs must stay with their herd and be on guard and protect at all times, so shepherd dogs do not easily switch off. However, Vizslas should be able to settle and the younger you teach them, the easier your life will be. Vizslas were bred to run and hunt, but also to lay around when they weren’t working. You need to teach your dog they are not hunting and it’s time to turn off.

    Settling just fine, FINALLY

    First off, your dog must be tired. If they’ve just woken up and haven’t had a walk or time to play, you’re not going to have too much luck asking them to go back to sleep. Make sure they’ve had enough training, off leash running, and playing before you ask them to settle. For puppies, hold them tight with a calming demeanor, breathing slowly and soothing them to relax. This can take 3mins to half an hour or more the first time. Humming or calm music can help but the key is you must be relaxed and transfer that over. Over time, your dog should calm down, maybe sigh deeply, and relax their muscles. Let them go calmly once you feel the relaxation. Even if your puppy energizes up again, you can repeat the process until they fall asleep or change their energy.

    Older dogs may need crates as it can be much harder to hold a bigger dog. Only let them out once they are calm, and once you are calm too! Your demeanor makes a huge difference. Play some calming music and make sure no one goes near or touches the crate to set them off. Cover the crate to shut out the world and makes sure that it’s comfortable and welcoming. If a chew toy doesn’t energize your dog, you can try one. Do not use a crate as a punishment, but see it as their own safe space to learn to relax. Make sure you let your pups out once they’ve calmed down.

    Destruction and Aggression

    Is your Vizsla dog aggressive? People aggressive? Does he destroy your shoes and clothing? Is he growling at your kids or if you touch her when she’s sleeping?

    Bourbon running away

    Aggression is more serious depending on the severity and issue. For this, get a good trainer that follows the latest techniques and is well respected by other trainers. Even just one session to help you understand the source of issues and a beginning to how to fix some.

    Aggression can come in many forms, and sometimes it is not aggression but lack of exercise or direction. It would be much too hard to diagnose online so please seek help! Sometimes aggression is also genetic as I’ve known backyard breeders or unethical breeders breeding dogs with known aggression. There are many tools to help, but it does take time and effort and lots of patience and understanding.

    Not listening, doesn’t come back

    Goodbye Bourbon

    We’ve all been through it, screaming and yelling and your dog clearly hears you but doesn’t come back. So you yell louder, and more seriously. GET BACK HERE NOW!!!! Unfortunately, recall isn’t taught by screaming louder and louder (who would want to run back to someone screaming like a maniac?).

    Recall is hard. It takes time and it’s made harder and harder with distractions, prey, and distance. I’ve written a whole blogpost about recall, aiming specifically for off leash outdoors. There’s also a challenge to practice with if you’ve got a reliable recall in most situations.

    Jumping on people, dogs

    Does your dog jump up on people? Does he jump on kids, bikes, and tackle other dogs? Maybe she’s extra friendly and likes to meet people face to face? As cute as it can be, it can also be dangerous with the wrong people, kids, or dogs.

    Jumping up on command

    There’s a couple things that can help with constant jumping.

    First off, don’t encourage jumping. If it’s cute when you enter the house and you reward with attention and playing, a dog will get very confused if you then yell at them when they jump on a friend or a child entering the house. Cut out any rewards for jumping, ever. Reward for 4 paws staying on the ground. Greet your dog only when they’re on the ground and reward (treats and attention) for that.

    Next, have a command to jump, and a command to get down. I have UP UP and OFF. I reward for the OFF. Soon you’ll be able to anticipate a jump and yell OFF to keep all four paws on the ground. Jumping is fun, so reward for OFF.

    Recall, when you do see your dog go after a child or bike when you’re outside. Work your way up to this recall by training with a friend. Start with slow moving close bikes, the easiest scenario and treat treat treat! Work with a long leash that you can step on if they go to run or jump. Train on the outside fence to a playground and work on keeping calm and all 4 paws on the ground. Work on recall with kids running (on the other side of the fence). Here’s more about recall.

    Sensitive and Scared

    Does your dog hide behind you? Maybe she won’t play with others, or maybe she shuts down easily and won’t come and play and cuddle? Maybe he barks when he gets scared and then runs away when there’s a loud noise?

    It’s no fun having a dog that won’t engage and play but the sooner you work on their confidence, the easier it will be! Vizslas are a sensitive breed and are more prone to shutting down due to punishments than other dogs (like labs). They’re more sensitive to emotions, to loud noises, physical trauma, and challenges. While Whiskey, my elder, is very confident, she’s also very sensitive to emotions. Bourbon is very sensitive to anything she deems “scary” and will shut down with dogs that are too physical, and gets traumatized easily with a bad experience.

    My derpy sensitive puppy

    Having a sensitive dog can be great. They will pick up when you’re sad and act appropriately and will be aware of surroundings and people. However, too scared and sensitive can lead to anxieties and bolting. You’ll have to work on your dog’s confidence so they can approach a challenge, try something scary, and be proud when they’ve overcome an obstacle with your help.

    First, if you have a scared dog, use positivity. You must approach with patience and encouragement, no screaming in frustration or plunking them down into something so scary they shut down. Positive reinforcement is key. Then work out the smallest micro-steps you can take to reaching more confidence in whatever is scary. Scared of dogs? Find the most placid older dog that doesn’t mind puppies and doesn’t approach, and go for a short walk with LOTS of treats. Noises? turn the TV on low and slowly increase while feeding peanut butter.

    It can be extremely helpful to take some puppy or dog obedience classes in a controlled environment (with a very respected trainer) with lots of treats and positive reinforcement. If the issue is larger and your dog already has anxiety, work with a trainer one on one and see what you can do everyday to take baby steps. I found dog sports as well to really with connection and overcoming challenges. Training agility with Bourbon has helped her many fears and we’ve been taking micro-steps to approaching and touching a teeter tooter.

    Other reasons you hate your Vizsla?

    What are other reasons your Vizsla is terrible? There is hope and help! They’re the cutest puppies but this breed is not for everyone. Vizslas take more time, emotional space, and training that most other breeds, but be assured that whatever you put into them, you get back x10.

    Guilty puppy eyes
  • How much do Vizslas Weigh? And How big do Hungarian Vizslas get?

    How much do Vizslas Weigh? And How big do Hungarian Vizslas get?

    Here is a chart of Vizsla sizes from XS to XL. They’re taken from a large number of measured Vizslas for sweaters and jackets sold here. Below is also a detailed explanation of the size of Vizslas around the world as well as the measurements.

    American vs European Vizsla size

    North American Vizslas tend to be smaller in stature as well as smaller boned. Even though they are smaller than Australian and European Vizslas, field North American Vizslas are muscular and more square, bigger shoulders with wide chests. Show North American Vizslas have a softer mousier look and are finder boned. In general, European Vizslas grow heavier and larger than Americans and their bones are also on the heavier side. Out of my own Vizslas, Whiskey leans towards the European lines while Bourbon towards the American look.

    Bourbon in front, Whiskey behind. See the paws, chest, and stature differences

    Female vs Male Vizsla size

    Female Vizslas are smaller than males although of course there is a crossover. The smallest of females can be around 35lbs and the largest males I’ve met are over 80lbs. Read more here about the differences between male and female Vizslas.

    Vizsla Standards

    How much does an adult Vizsla get? Well, it depends on female or male Vizslas and there is a slight difference in different parts of the world. In general, European and Australian Vizslas are a bit larger.

    AKC (American Kennel Club) Hungarian Vizsla Standard (1.5 inches above or under are disqualified)
    Female ideally 21-23 inches at shoulders (Bourbon is 21, Whiskey is 22)
    Male ideally 22 to 24 inches at shoulders

    AU Hungarian Vizsla Standard (2cm above or below are disqualified)
    Female 54cm-60cm (21-24 inches)
    Males 58-64cm (23 inches-25 inches)

    UK Hungarian Vizsla Standard
    Female 53cm-60cm (21-24 inches)
    Males 57-64cm (22 inches-25 inches)

    Vizsla Measurement Charts

    What are the measurements of an adult Vizsla or a puppy Vizsla?

    Here’s a chart I’ve been using for my Vizsla sweaters. Everything is approximate but I find them pretty accurate so far. Here’s the details on how to measure

    XSSMLXL
    Back Length17-1919-2020-2222-2423-25
    Chest Girth22.1-25.124.4-28.325.9-29.527.5-30.730-32.5
    Approx weight35-4342-5248-5855-6360+

    Puppy sizes

    How large is an 8 week Vizsla? And how much does an 8 or 12 week old Vizsla weigh? Here are a couple measurements from my own female Vizslas (girls are smaller than boys). Below is a link to a weight chart from my two girls.

    9 weeks3 months
    Back length1415
    Chest Girth1617
    Approx Weight1520

    Here’s some puppy weight charts from Bourbon and Whiskey’s growth

    My Female Vizsla Measurements

    Whiskey (female, 8.5 years) is 51lbs back length 21, collar 14, chest 26.5-27.5 (depending on fitness)

    Bourbon is (female, 2.5yrs) is 47lbs back length 21, collar 14, chest 26

  • What’s better? Males vs Female Vizsla Dogs

    What’s better? Males vs Female Vizsla Dogs

    Trying to choose between getting a female or male puppy? Or just wondering if there’s any difference at all really? I’m no expert (ask your breeder to start!) but here’s a couple things I’ve found over the years.

    Bourbon next to her mom and Brother Rudy

    Physical differences

    The obvious difference is males tend to be slightly taller and larger and of course have anatomical differences. It’s really important I be able to carry my own dog for long periods of time, so for me a smaller dog is very beneficial, however I don’t know this is a concern for most people.

    I need to be able to carry my dogs up ladders and if injured

    Males will tend to mark as well as hump more than females. My Whiskey loves to mark just as much as males, although overall you’ll see this behavior in males more. Humping can also occur in both sexes although it will happen more with male dogs. On the other hand, I know with proper training you can keep dogs from humping, and some unneutered males do not hump or mark.

    Another obvious difference is that unspayed female dogs will go into heat once or twice a year and this can be inconvenient, especially if you have a male dog, or your dog goes to daycare. It’s not been a huge issue for me, and there are solutions like an OSS spay that can keep hormones while preventing pregnancy.

    Bourbon with her fancy panties

    Emotional

    There’s something I keep hearing about Vizslas “Girls love you, and the boys fall IN love with you”. I can see where this comes from, and the differences overall. You cannot really speak to a specific individual but there’s definitely differences overall, just like humans.

    Vizslas love their humans

    Vizslas will all love their humans. They’re velcro dogs that seek human attention and love and want to touch and be with you all day long. Both my girls (and other Vizslas that come live with me) follow me from room to room, and I’m never alone in the bathroom. They all think they’re lap dogs, and they will love snuggle and cuddle.

    However, as much as female Vizslas love to be on your lap and under the desk or behind the chair with you, male Vizslas will love you so hard they’ll be on top of your head. Males will bounce so exuberantly they’ll tackle you with their love, and they’ll want not only to touch you, they want to be part of you. Males are just very enthusiastic and unfiltered and everything is straight from their feelings and into their legs.

    Risky business on cliffs, especially with birds and chipmunks

    Hiking, Working, Dog Sports

    Male dogs in general have less caution when it comes to risk taking, or just thinking about consequences. This is a part of why I chose females. Males tend to run and jump without thinking, without looking at what is on the other side. If they see something move, they will be more likely to run and chase rather than sniffing and thinking. This translates to more dangerous on cliffs with birds, more chance of injury on steep drop-offs or technical hikes, and more chances of making bad decisions with bears and porcupine. Overall I’ve seen many more males quilled and with injuries from running into things than females.

    Another thing to think about, is females tend more to be thinkers, doing things on their own terms. They can be more emotional, opinionated and manipulative. This can be harder for competitions and training if your dog is more prone to doing things on their own terms, depending on the current alignment of stars. Male dogs and Vizslas are less emotional and less prone to emotional swings. For dog sports, males can be bolder and more aggressive attacking new obstacles or challenges.

    So many Vizslas

    Please do keep in mind that these are very generalized statements and each dog is different. While Whiskey is very reliable, fearless, and driven, Bourbon can be quite emotional, tentative and a thinker. However, it can actually be easier to run Bourbon in agility as she’s more accurate about her motions and less aggressive at just attacking whatever she sees in the arena vs actually listening to commands.

    Socialization

    Depending on what you’re looking for (or not looking for) Male dogs are generally more interested in meeting other dogs, more drawn to roaming in an attempt to find a mate. Although Bourbon roams extremely far, she doesn’t go and greet dogs along the way, however I know many long ranging Vizsla males that will go and say hello to others. I personally really like how my females keep to themselves and for the most part we have no problem with other dogs that want to pick a fight or are reactive or anxious. On the other side, they’re both less playful than males, and more standoffish to others on walks.

    Social lives of Vizslas

    Because male dogs are more social, without proper training and socialization they can be more prone to get into fights with strangers. I’ve known too many unneutered male Vizslas that have gotten attacked by neutered male dogs, or just more dominance fights. I feel like this is mainly an issue in North America where most dogs are neutered and many are not socialized properly but it’s definitely a trend.

    Females will still fight, but I think there’s less chances of a stranger random off-leash dog attacking a female, than a male. However, two females in a house that are battling for top dog will be much more vicious and fierce. Males posture more, females are serious when they actually do fight.

    Girls or Boys get the one best for your home

    In Conclusion

    Consider your lifestyle and what other dogs you have in your household. What is most important to you? I wanted a dog I could lift, a dog that would ignore others, one that wouldn’t chase chipmunks off a cliff or chase a bear, and one that didn’t mark up my home. Whiskey was an alpha female and I still introduced another female into my home because I was confident that as much as Whiskey was top dog, she would not be aggressive and would be a good leader for a puppy to follow.

    Much more important than male or female, get yourself a good breeder that’s breeding good genes, healthy, with no aggression and a lovely temperament. Meet the parents and as many other Vizslas as you can and find and train yourself the perfect companion.

  • Timing and Duration of Vizsla Dogs Heat Cycle

    Timing and Duration of Vizsla Dogs Heat Cycle

    When do Vizslas go into heat? They’re all different and the best is to ask about the mother but here’s a list of the dates of my Vizsla’s heat cycles and duration between. Whiskey and Bourbon are from totally different bloodlines.

    I’ve gone back to list Bourbon’s heat timing to try and predict future ones so I thought to list them here. Whiskey has an OSS Spay but still goes into heat. It’s harder to pinpoint the exact start and stop for Whiskey because she doesn’t bleed but it’s still very obvious when she is in the middle of her cycle because her personality around other dogs changes so strongly.

    I’m missing some dates but I’ve calculated time from birth to first heat, and have more accurate information about Bourbon’s heat cycles (female Vizsla bitch).


    Bourbon (Her mother cycles every 6 months)

    Symptoms: less interest in working, more independence, swelling, increased interest in dogs only for the last week

    Born: July 14 2020

    First heat: July 2 2021- July 20 2021
    353 Days, 11 months 18 days

    Dec 21 2021- Jan 7 2022
    172 Days, 5 months 19 days

    July 26 2022- Aug 11 2022
    217 Days, 7 months 5 days

    Feb 6th 2023- Feb 23 2023

    195 Days 6 months 11 days


    Whiskey

    Born: April 15 2014

    Symptoms: decreased appetite for a week before, swelling, decreased energy, increased interest in dogs

    First heat: June 27 2015 – July 15 2015
    438 days 14 months 12 days

    Jan 2016

    May 2016- OSS Spay

    July 2016

    Feb 2017

    Oct 2018

    Oct 2019

    April 2020

    Oct 2020

    April 2021

    Nov 2021

    Dec 2022

  • Vizsla’s first Heat- What to Know, How to keep Camping

    Vizsla’s first Heat- What to Know, How to keep Camping

    It’s becoming more common in North America not to spay or neuter a dog until they’re “fully developed” as it’s finally being recognized that the previous recommendations to spay at 6-8 months, before a dog goes through a heat cycle, is not generally healthy. Rescues tend to spay even earlier, some as early as 8 weeks! Reasoning is that early spaying prevents unplanned mating and litters and the unwanted dogs that end up killed in shelters. While this is still an issue in some locations, it’s also quite easy to prevent unwanted pregnancy in a pet dog so I wrote this to help out owners that may be nervous about managing a dog in heat.

    Some rescues spay a puppy this young

    So why wait?

    Waiting until the dog reaches puberty is now generally recommended so the dogs can naturally develop with hormones from their sex organs. This is proven to reduce cancers, orthopedic issues, behavior issues, urinary incontinence, however increases the chance of mammary tumors and cancers, as well as testicular cancer (just the same as removing the breasts will remove the chance of breast cancer). A study with Vizslas in particular show that neutered dogs (between 6 and 12 months) had significant higher chances of mast cell cancer, lymphoma, all other cancers, fear of storms, and those before 6 months had increased chances of a behavioral disorder.

    Life continues with a diaper

    I chose to wait with Whiskey and paid for an OSS spay (more about that here) that keeps an ovary so she still has her heat without bleeding. Whiskey went through several heats before her surgery. With Bourbon, the advice from my vet now is not to undergo an unnecessary surgery if possible so we will wait until there is a reason to.

    Owning an intact dog is definitely more hassle and work. Not only do you need to keep a close eye on a female in heat, but you need to deal with bleeding, a potential change in personality, and it can be extra challenging around other dogs. At first I was quite overwhelmed with the process, but after a heat I didn’t find it difficult to deal with.

    Bourbon hiking and adventuring during her first heat

    A Vizsla’s heat cycle

    A female Vizsla’s first heat can be anywhere from 8 months to 1.5 years old but typically 10 months to 1 year (this changes in breeds, typically depending on weight/size). After the first heat, their heat cycle is usually between every 6 months to a year. Whiskey had her first heat just after she turned 1 year old, and Bourbon just before her birthday. I believe Bourbon was first out of her sisters. Bourbon’s heat cycle is every 6 months, just like her mother, and Whiskey is once a year. It takes a couple years for their cycles to regulate so be patient. The first heat is NOT usually typical of the rest of them. Ask your breeder about your dog’s mother’s heat and you might get a hint of what may happen!

    Signs before

    With Whiskey I had lots of signs before her first heat (about 2-3 weeks notice), with Bourbon there was none and it’s always been a surprise. Whiskey is more in tuned with her emotions and body, while Bourbon is a little bit of a jackrabbit with a small attention span and is harder to read.

    Whiskey’s signs at the beginning of her heat (before bleeding)

    • Less appetite, skipping meals
    • More socializing, interest in saying hi to dogs (both female and male)
    • Dogs are more interested in sniffing
    • Swelling of vulva
    • licking her genitals
    • marking (pee marking everywhere)
    • discharge

    Bourbon’s signs

    • Nothing, then SURPRISE

    Other signs your dogs might have

    • Change in behavior (clingy, sleepy, personality change)
    • Aggression to male dogs

    Changes during a dog’s heat

    I never noticed a behavioral change in either of my girls although it’s been regularly reported that Vizslas in particular will get VERY extra Velcro and needy. They can be uncomfortable, moody, basically just like human females and need extra emotional support. The big difference I’ve noticed is that my girls are very social especially with good looking males! Whiskey is a gigantic flirt, however it’s not with every male. She is particular with her ‘type’ and will be very upset at unwanted advances from the ‘wrong’ dog.

    Whiskey will ask to go outside to mark and look for males during her heat, and will wander further and approach dogs (she normally never approaches dogs) and show them her rear. It’s very common for dogs to be more tired and uncomfortable but I haven’t noticed that with either of my girls. We continue our regular hikes and walks (just further away from others) and I do not notice a change in energy although it’s very common.

    Dog diapers

    Bleeding and diapers

    Bleeding is possibly the largest annoyance you’ll have to deal with, unless you own a male unfixed dog. Depending on your living conditions, you could just lay out blankets in a crate or bed and change those frequently. Vizslas keep themselves very clean and you might be surprised how little you have to clean! I’ve also heard it can be more comfortable to air out and not wear a diaper all day long if it’s not needed.

    On the other hand, diapers are very handy if you do not have a large uncarpeted area for your dog, or you are sleeping together in a car or tent (camping is extra awkward!). My girls will bleed for about 3 weeks, the last week turning less bloody and more clear. This last week when the blood stops, is actually the most fertile point and you need to be extra cautious of meeting males. You’ll also notice your girl ‘flagging’ with her tail to the side when she meets other dogs (or smells them). Keep your dog supervised the entire heat, but keep an even more close watch (and tighter leash) during the stage when they flag because this is when they may escape and when they are most fertile.

    The pink is Seasonals Diaper, the other is Amazon brand Teamoy lined diapers both Medium

    We’ve tried 3 types of diapers. The first were home-made, just an old pair of panties tied tight with a hole for her tail and a panty liner. This…was a bit of a mess and Whiskey could escape from them easily. The second was a store-bought one and I put liners in (brand was Seasonals), and the third, my favorite is a washable one with built in liners (see photos).

    Because our dogs have such a skinny stomach and slim buttocks, you may need to size down if the diapers go by weight of dog. I ended up sewing extra velcro onto the diapers because Whiskey was so skinny. The important thing to remember is to take the diapers off before they go outside otherwise they’ll pee in it. This isn’t too hard to remember but can be quite the game when you’re camping and your dog jumps in and out of the tent all night long.

    Camping with your dog in heat

    Because we camp in an area with bears, cougars, and coyotes, blood needs to be contained and sealed off. I take freezer ziplock bags to put used liners in, and then put the ziplock bags into drybags and everything is stored with our food and garbage overnight (100m+ away hung on a tree or in a buried bear bag). I will also bring dog wipes to deal with cleaning, extra water, and lots of panty liners. Even if the diapers have built in liners, it’s more efficient to bring liners than 4 pairs of diapers if you need to carry in and out. Bourbon sleeps inside my sleeping bag the diaper needs to fit very well! I’ve done 3 camping trips with Bourbon in heat, in 3 different tents without issue.

    Males and interactions with dogs

    During the heat, both females and males will be very interested in sniffing my dogs. I normally walk in quieter locations but during heat, will flat out avoid certain places that may have more dogs. I will always ask (if I cannot see) if a dog is female or male, fixed or intact before they meet. Whiskey can be very aggressive in flirting with a dog so if the dog is small, or shy, or finds her advances unwanted, we stay away and are leashed.

    Whiskey will flirt with all dogs, female or male, and even old seniors so I really need to control her around others! Bourbon’s still very new and is not spayed (Whiskey has her OSS spay) so I do not entirely know her personality during her heat around other dogs. Her first heat she showed no interest in males she met (very few, none intact) but her second heat she was singing to the boys (she stayed at her breeder with intact males). No matter what, keep your dog under control and supervise them even in a fenced yard (dogs can mate between fences).

    Bourbon in heat hanging out with her sister River

    The easiest thing if you have an unfixed male living with you, is to see if someone can take your male for a couple weeks. If not, separate them in different rooms or crate one at a time. If there are several males in a household, they can lose their appetite and fight amongst each other so you might need to separate the males from each other too. It goes to say, do not let your female in the yard unattended, do not let your males out together unattended.

    My experience with my girls in heat

    When I lived in the city, I would drive 45mins away for off leash walks on extremely quiet trails and wake up earlier for city walks. I don’t mind letting Whiskey say hi to other dogs on leash that are fixed, but under no circumstances do we allow humping (from any dog, regardless of sex or neutering). Even though Whiskey is spayed, she can still tie and that can be traumatic and physically painful for her. We once stayed at an Airbnb cabin out of town while Whiskey was in heat and literally had the “boys” come to the yard and wait for her to come out.

    Overall it’s not been too much work outside of managing diapers as the dogs run in and out of the house, car, tent, etc. Most of my friends have fixed males that do not have any interest in my girls in heat, and we do not meet too many dogs on a daily basis. I work from home now and no longer need daycare or a dog walker that insists on a spayed female (this can depend on cities and what is the norm). Some of my friends have Vizslas that have a hard time and are quite depressed or mopey but my girls seem unfazed so far (Bourbon hasn’t had enough heats for me to be sure). Whiskey has great recall even in heat, is spayed, so she’s off leash in most cases, but Bourbon has a very long range so she needs special care, more on-leash time, and remote walks.


  • Why a Vizsla is the Wrong Dog Breed for You

    Why a Vizsla is the Wrong Dog Breed for You

    Vizsla’s aren’t the sort of dog that’s good for everyone, they aren’t the “best” family dog, nor the dog that fits into every situation. Contrary to my entire website and life, I find myself discouraging many people I talk to in the dog park from getting a Vizsla “because they’re so pretty what’s the breed?”. It’s totally false advertising when they see a calm Vizsla heeling at my side downtown, ignoring other dogs and squirrels and posing for the camera. I just happen to have an oddity, that I poured hundreds of hours into training, and that has been out hiking 4 times already this week. Bourbon’s a better example…except she’s either not visible on trails because she’s elsewhere, or she’s wrapping herself around the legs of a stranger all cute and noodley. They don’t see all the time, energy and money spent!

    Very pretty dogs, can work against them if they bought just for looks

    The Good Stuff

    The problem with Vizslas, is that upon appearance (if they are standing still enough to see, or by photographs on the internet) they look amazing. They’re gorgeous, short haired, don’t smell much, look sweet tempered, and a very reasonable size. A quick Google search will tell you Vizslas are gentle natured, loyal, friendly, versatile, and eager to please. So what’s not to like? Why are Vizslas not the next Labs or Golden Retrievers fit for any family?

    The (potentially) Bad Stuff

    Breeders get hundreds of emails a week during Covid…so it will be very hard to find a good one

    It’s hard to even buy a good one

    First off, Vizslas are prone to Epileptic seizures, skin allergies, cancers, and other disorders. It’s not more than the typical breed, but if you don’t find a reputable breeder that screens for these issues, you could have a sick dog. Finding breeders and getting a puppy (especially in less than 2 years) is extremely difficult and most people do not want to wait this long, or do so much homework, send so many emails and phone calls just to buy a dog. Going the less reputable direction can buy you a dog with a huge variety of issues that are screened by ethical breeders. I’ve seen this happen time and time again, and it’s so sad to see an early death, sick puppy, and dangerous behavioural issues.

    Goodbye Bourbon! After 8 days of continuous backcountry hiking, she was good to keep going!

    The energy level is not ideal for most

    Most people’s life does not allow for 2 hour walks outside, hunting, running their dog in an agility ring, or spending so much time centered around their dog. Between a job, kids, social engagements, travel, there are few people that would be ok walking their dog for hours outside, even when it’s raining, even in the winter, even after work in the dark. Vizslas are high energy dogs that love to use their brains, learn new things, and are extremely versatile in work they can do. The key is WORK. They love having a job, pleasing their human, and doing well at their jobs. It’s like the A+ student at the front of the class, hands up to answer every question, on speed. These dogs want to run, sniff, do things or they can be destructive when bored. They’re not ideal if you like a calm household, expect order, and your children aren’t the rough and tumble sort.

    Bird dogs want to hunt for birds and will hunt regardless of your own preferences
    Bourbon can become deaf if she’s chasing birds. She’ll run for hours until you can catch her!

    A hunting dog wants to hunt

    If you’re a hunter, wonderful! But if you don’t hunt and you get a hunting dog, please expect your dog to want to hunt things. If you’re not interested in a dog that sniffs out dead animals, stalks pigeons, and shakes with excitement at every squirrel in the park, then this can get frustrating. They’re bred to respond to hunt and find prey so this might not be ideal for lots of people. The ability can be aimed at work (sniff work for example) or you might take your dog out to hunt tests, but if you’d like your dog to walk on leash calmly on a hiking trail near a bird sanctuary…you have hundreds of hours of training to do.

    Vizslas love sitting on their humans, being with their humans and touching them

    Velcro is not an exaggeration- Separation anxiety

    Vizslas are known as Velcro dogs and although many of my own friends are dog lovers, they don’t really want a dog glued to them at all times. Some like to go to the bathroom alone, take a shower without someone checking up on them, and some others would like to work without a dog in their chair. It’s very typical for Vizslas to wake themselves up and follow you from room to room just be close to you. If “personal space” is something you treasure…this is not the right breed!

    To further the point, this breed needs humans to be close and if you’re not around much, can develop separation anxiety. They’re not an independent breed that will be fine without you. Leave a Vizsla outside in a backyard and you’ll see them staring at you on the other side of the glass door wanting you to be out there with them. A backyard will do you no good unless you’re having fun with them outside.

    Bourbon in no less than 3 layers for a 6 hour hike in the cold. I had to carry extra layers in case

    Short-haired and Climate

    Vizslas have very short hair and only one coat so if your climate is colder, the breed may not be ideal. These are indoor dogs, not outdoors and cannot survive in low temperatures like double-coated dogs. I constantly need to bring jackets, boots, and more if we are going for long 5+ hour adventures in weather that may not be ideal. They can hate the rain, and shiver miserably, and can have a hard time retrieving in icy cold waters, especially for a length of time.

    Boots and jackets are not needed for huskies in conditions like these

    Time and Energy needed

    More than most breeds, Vizslas are a bit like tiny humans in that they take TIME and ENERGY. They’ll give you back so much love, but you need to put in the time and energy first. They demand it, and you will see this under no uncertain terms. They’re very needy dogs, with lots of feelings and emotions and love to hear your voice. They love to be pampered with blankets and pillows and attention. Whiskey will interrupt me at work, insistently asking for me to just stare into her eyes and love on her. Bourbon will sit and whine until I tend to her emotional needs.

    Sensitive to a fault

    Have you ever met anyone that seemed to take things you said the wrong way? Maybe your tone of voice or wording and they were instantly hurt? There are some dogs that people can yell at and train pretty harshly without too much trauma but Vizslas can shut down quickly. Bourbon is quick to frighten and remembers every tiny thing forever. I’ve seen so many Vizslas scream and shake and cower after receiving a bump or nip from another dog where most dogs might recover in a couple seconds. I’ve had Vizslas limp over to me, totally distressed with a hanging paw and I’ve had to ‘pretend’ to look them over, kiss their limp paw and tell them they’re ok. And then off they run full speed and ‘recovered’.

    The sensitivity can also show up in food sensitivities or drama when not feeling well. Whiskey was SUCH a picky eater with tummy problems when she was younger. When she got giardia (diarrhea and vomiting) and I brought her to the vet and because she was being so dramatic the vet thought she was much worse than she actually was. Her heartbeat was too slow, she was shaking (emotional) and hiding underneath my chair in a ball. There’s alot of managing emotions that might not be as big an issue with other dogs.

    Stamina and speed

    Vizslas were bred to run fast, and run long. They can keep up with horseback and go all day. Perhaps you don’t want a dog that recovers from a 25km run in a couple hours, or a puppy that just *never* goes to sleep. There were so many times I would drive out 2 hours for a hike, hike 6 hours, and drive back. By the time I got home, Whiskey was ready to go again, and I still hadn’t unpacked my hiking bag! Stamina is amazing, but it might not be what you want in a dog. These are the dogs you bring to a dog park and they run one dog after another until the entire park is exhausted and lying down…except your Vizsla is now ready for a one hour game of fetch.

  • Raw Dog Feeding- Affordable, Details, our Vancouver sources, and supplements

    Raw Dog Feeding- Affordable, Details, our Vancouver sources, and supplements

    1. Whiskey
    2. Bourbon
    3. Feeding details
    4. Proteins
    5. Extras
    6. Supplements
    7. Meal Bones
    8. Sample Meal
    9. Travel and Training
    10. Amount
    11. Benefits and Downsides
    12. Risks
    13. Switching
    14. Digestive Issues
    15. Sources

    Whiskey’s tummy

    When I first brought Whiskey home, she was eating kibble and for some reason, kibble just didn’t really make “sense” to me. I avoid highly processed food in general because it just doesn’t make me feel so good, and I wanted to feed Whiskey something I understood and felt good about. To me, food should look like food, and I started cooking for her and trying different menu options. I wasn’t against kibble sometimes, but I just felt that since I wouldn’t like to eat nutrition bars all my life (but hey once in awhile is fine), I wanted to try and feed more fresh foods to my growing puppy.

    After a couple weeks it just became very time consuming and I was getting anxious about balancing all the required nutrients. It’s very hard to know how much calcium you’re feeding for example, and although Whiskey LOVED the cooked meals, it just wasn’t a practical long term solution. At that point she ate more food than I did, and I was making a huge batch of slow-cooked food every other day and grocery shopping just took too much money and time.

    Raw meat mix with leftover veges I had in the fridge

    Soon after I shifted her onto raw food, but it took me 1 year to figure out what Whiskey did best on, and where best to buy from. Whiskey was very picky with food, and she had multiple issues with Guardia and diarrhea, vomiting, and other illnesses in the beginning so it took awhile to find our rhythm. In the end, I found out that Whiskey likes semi-frozen meals, and doesn’t like chicken, gamey bird meats (like Quail and duck), but is ok with Turkey. When I say she doesn’t “like”, she’s not intolerant, she just refuses to eat it, and will pick at her food for weeks if I try to out-stubborn her and would get way too skinny. Whiskey seems to do well on lean meats like Turkey, Lamb, Pork, and Elk (we had a scare where we thought she might have had Pancreatitis), and is very sensitive to greasy foods (much more sensitive than Bourbon for example). Every dog is different and it’s really good to find out what works for your dog (like people!).

    Nutrience pre-mix with raw elk, canned pumpkin leftover rice, and raw egg

    Bourbon’s appetite

    Bourbon also came kibble-fed and I was able to switch her over to raw within one meal several days after she settled into our home. She had no tummy problems and eats really well. Bourbon eats meats well but is oddly picky with new foods like vegetables and fruits. While Whiskey will beg for orange slices and strawberries, Bourbon won’t touch them. Each dog is different! Bourbon’s done well with every protein we’ve thrown at her. The only thing I have to keep in mind is to slowly increase her large “bone meals” (meaty bones as a meal) or she’ll be overwhelmed with a bone too large! Bourbon loves fish, even whole fish, while Whiskey will only eat small chopped up fish.

    What a typical block of frozen dog meat looks like. 10% bone, 5% liver, 5% kidney/spleen 80% muscle meat

    Vet opposition

    Most traditional vets are opposed to the raw diet for a variety of reasons. Most studies about dog food are done and funded by large dog food companies and there is very little financial incentive to study the benefits to raw so first off there’s little evidence to back raw food as being an healthier alternative. Raw food manufacturers are new and small (and tend to be local because raw is harder to ship) and don’t have the resources to fund these studies.

    Also because raw diets vary so much, vets can be scared of the possibility of nutritional imbalances. There are definitely some people that aren’t going to do the research or even know that this is something you need to do. If you feed only hamburger meat and eggshells, your dog is going to be sick, so you’ll need to do a minimal amount of research or purchase a pre-mixed raw. At the least a dog needs muscle meat, organ (lots of minerals and vitamins in organs), and bone. Last, the risk of meat-borne bacteria. While there is always a risk of handing raw meat, it’s not more so than any meat that you eat (we buy all human grade meat for our dogs). Vets don’t want to take on the extra liability if they recommend a raw diet.

    We’ve worked with vets that oppose or support our raw feeding but once they see how healthy our dogs are, their teeth, coat, and demeanor, I haven’t been given too much grief. I’ve found over time they’re more supportive or at least there’s less opposition.

    Daily feeding raw, the details

    Semi-frozen seems like the best texture for most dogs. Some will eat fully frozen, and most that I know aren’t crazy about fully defrost soft mushy raw blend. For meaty bones, Whiskey didn’t’ want to work for her meal, so I would sear the sides of the turkey neck or lamb neck to get her “into it”. I also taught the dogs to eat on a mat for easy indoor cleanup. I feed my cat the same meat as my dogs, I just add extra taurine into the food for her (in the form of hearts).

    Everyday I defrost the next day’s meat and feed the meal I put in the day earlier so its’ semi defrosted in the fridge. We have a deep freezer (even in the apartment we bought a deep freezer) so we can get about 120 lbs of meat at a time to keep costs and shopping less. We use THESE containers and put a couple blocks in. Whiskey eats about 1.5lbs and Bourbon (currently 8 months) eats about 2lbs. I use a fork to break up the semi-frozen blocks into a bowl, add any extras, and feed. It takes approx. 2 mins to prepare. We use a sanitizing wipe or spray on the mats after they’ve eaten and that’s about it. I’m extra cautious about tripe and I’m always in the room with the girls while they eat. I like to prevent any guarding issues with eating (all 3 are fed at the same time), and if we’re feeding bones, I’m also there to encourage them to stay on the mat. They also eat better and are less insecure if I’m there. If one finishes much faster, I’m also there to remove a temptation for one to go after another’s meal.

    a 40lb box of bulk raw meat, straight into the deep freezer, we get 3 at a time

    Proteins we feed

    I usually buy my food in bulk 40lb boxes of a single protein although sometimes I might get patties, or pre-mixes to make my life easier (or if someone is pet-sitting I want their lives to be easy!). Most mixes we use are around 80% muscle meat, 10% organ and 10% bone.

    Beef -local, but higher fat, prefer elk but harder to find
    Turkey- our go to protein, lean and easier to digest than chicken
    Pork- lean, we use rarely but I do like to mix in different protein, there is a blanket warning about feeding raw pork because of larvae of Trichinella spiralis (a parasite), however this is not an issue in Canada
    Elk- Low in fat, we love elk but hard to find and more expensive
    Fish- whole fish from Asian food markets, or fish byproduct from our local fish shop (odds and ends that don’t make it to human products), please note to freeze wild caught salmon or any hunted meats for 3 weeks before feeding to avoid parasites

    Nutrience Raw or other pre-mix- just feed packets and done! includes supplements, veg, variety meat mixed already

    Make sure the premix has muscle meat, bone, and organ, if not, then make sure you add some. You don’t need to add it in equally every meal, just overall. For instance some premix doesn’t have bone because it’s hard to grind up beef bones. I might feed 3 meals of beef without bone (2 meals a day) and then feed one meal of meaty bone. If I don’t add veg to one meal, I might add extra to another. You’re aiming for variety overall, not variety in every meal.

    raw turkey with sardines, egg, and Dr Dobias supplements

    Extras

    lamb neck- Whiskey’s favorite, a good treat I can’t always afford, Whiskey prefers it seared (roll eyes here)
    chicken carcass- Moo and Bourbon, best to start puppies from
    chicken/turkey hearts- for Moo (I feed her dog meat mix and add extra hearts for taurine)
    turkey/duck neck- Bourbon loves, Whiskey doesn’t seem to digest these well anymore (although turkey meat is ok)
    green tripe- Amazing for both dogs, I try to find whole pieces, not ground down (cheaper and less processed), super smelly but healthy if you can deal with the smell (not for the newly initiated into raw feeding!)
    pumpkin (canned)/ steamed yams
    steamed veges, chopped spinach,
    chicken egg/quail egg
    berries
    leftovers (nothing greasy, toxic, saucy)

    Supplements I use, I don’t really need to but I feel better!

    Supplements

    I use GreenMin, Soulfood from Dr Dobias (I use about a 1/3 of the recommended amount a day)
    Fish/sardines/krill oil for omega 3s
    Turmeric as an inflammatory (after high impact activity, or any swelling)
    Green lipped mussel for joints
    Kiefer for probiotics
    Gutsense (after vomiting or diarrhea or antibiotic use)

    Nutrience Raw mix with kiefer, turkey neck for Bourbon, lamb neck for Whiskey, and pumpkin

    Meal bones

    We feed meal bones 1-3 times a week. This is to help clean their teeth, and when I just need a break because it can take up to an hour for Whiskey to break down a piece of lamb neck. Chewing on a meaty bone takes brain power and it’s something they both enjoy and get tired doing. It’s the perfect rainy day activity.

    See this as an opportunity to vary your usual proteins, and size depending on your dog’s chewing ability. Start with smaller bones with a puppy or cats, like chicken carcass, and duck neck. My cat can break down turkey necks but she’s a bit…crazy. Start young and with boney pieces like chicken backs or turkey necks in sections (chop them up). If your dog is just licking the the meat if they are playing with it too much and cut into the meat so there’s more to work with. Whiskey also preferred her meat seared (I’m serious, she was that picky but then she would eat it). Don’t try cartilage until you know your dog is really into bones. Whiskey hates the texture.

    If you can feed outdoors that’s ideal but we have to feed indoors so we’ve taught the dogs to eat on a mat. Look around for a butcher than might keep you some cuts for cheap. Avoid weight bearing bones on large animals if your dog is a big chewer (they might crack teeth) and never feed cooked bones, especially small birds because cooked bones are brittle and can break and puncture intestines. If your dog does eat some by mistake, just keep an eye out for any signs of issues.

    Sample meal

    I just wash my hands after handling raw meat, I use food storage containers to defrost daily

    I typically don’t spend too much effort making a fancy meal for my dog but sometimes I’ll have extras. The base for most meals is just the block of meat I buy in bulk. Here’s an example of how much effort I put in myself, although I see many dog parents that make the most Instagram worthy meals for their pups!

    Simple meal (50%): 1 bock of meat half defrosted

    Regular meal (35%): 1 block of meat, some veg, supplements

    Fancy meal (10%): 1 block of meat, quail egg, fish, veg, tablespoon kiefer, supplements, berries from garden

    Bone Meal (10%): 1 piece of meaty bone

    Travel and Training with Raw

    For travel I’ll usually bring a couple blocks of meat for the first couple days and put them in the hotel fridge or an ice box. Pre-mixes are easiest at this point and sometimes the pre-packed packaging really helps in an ice box. If we are going into the backcountry our somewhere without a fridge I’ll start bringing freeze dried raw. There’s many different options on the market and in most cases you do get what you pay for. Try feeding the freeze dried as treats or food topper before going on the trip to make sure your dog will eat it happily first. I’ve found some cheaper brands will show in loose stools, but we’ve had the best luck with Open Farm’s freeze dried raw. Our dogs love it so much I use it as training treats and meal supplements while training Bourbon as a puppy. Also if your dog has also done well with kibble I don’t see harm in switching to kibble for travelling either as long as stools show no change and your dog seems to be doing well. Of course like always, I’m not an expert and just speaking from my own personal experience.

    Amount to feed

    Feed the dog in front of you. Start with an amount. If your dog is skinny, double it until your dog looks good, then reduce the amount until your dog looks healthy. If your dog is too big, halve the amount until your dog looks good, then find the amount in-between that keeps your dog at that weight. Don’t move up and down in small amounts. Watch their poop, bugs? loose? tight? it will tell you lots!

    Our costs are around 2-3$/lbs (Canadian dollars) in bulk 40lbs box. 53lbs Whiskey eats about 1.5lbs a day (3% of body weight but very active dog) and 41lbs Bourbon eats about 2lbs (5% of body weight at 8 months). They get extra on days we are doing big hikes, and maybe less if we’re not doing too much (although that’s rare because Bourbon doesn’t really allow that scenario).

    Puppy *first month home- 8-10%
    Growing puppy- 6-8%
    Teenager puppy- 4-6%
    1-2 yrs- 3-4%
    adult 2-3%
    active adult- 3%
    senior/less active/overweight adult – 1.5%

    On the top was my dinner, on the bottom, Whiskey’s dinner, this makes more sense to me than kibble

    What are the benefits to feeding raw

    -you know exactly what you are feeding, easier to control for allergies
    -not processed
    -local sources
    -control over ingredients (more fat, less fat, more meat, less pumpkin)
    -fresh food, easily digestible
    -less gas, less stinky breath, less poop (more food used, less poop wastage)
    -no preservatives
    -no fillers needed to make kibble
    -clean teeth (bones and no fillers/carbs)
    -less “doggie” odour
    -less shedding, softer shiner coat
    -more energy, better immune system

    Downsides to feeding raw

    -tends to be more expensive
    -gross compared to kibble
    -need to have organization and defrost, etc
    -more washing, more hassle
    -limited usage (ie compared to kibble best before date)
    -harder to source
    -need travelling options
    -can worry if old/young/immune compromised
    -need freezer space

    raw meat, roasted pumpkin, kefir, supplements

    What are the risks and how do we mitigate them?

    If there’s young children or very old family members that may be immune compromised, keep surfaces clean and don’t use the same bowl for humans and dogs. Use the same precautious handing any kind of meat as with the dog food. Avoid kisses right after eating. Don’t keep food too long defrosted, we’ve rarely had this issue, but I’ve refrozen the food (sometimes even for an hour or two) if I think we might be going on a camping trip. Remember humans are more at risk than dogs to things like e-coli, dogs eat loads of unsavory things and don’t get sick and their stomachs are better adjusted to eating raw meat than ours are.

    Switching diets to raw

    This really depends on the dog that is transitioning and can be easy or hard. With Whiskey it took months going from kibble to cooked to raw. Kibble to cooked food is really easy, and from cooked to raw, it took a longer time. I was new to raw feeding and was trying many sources and things. I also didn’t know that half frozen is ideal for texture! Whiskey is so picky with her food and since she was the only dog eating, there was no sense of competition (she ate better when we petsitted another dog).

    Bourbon just switched outright and never looked back. Some dogs are able to eat one meal kibble, one meal raw without issues, others cannot. Slow cooked food is the easiest to digest so use that for transitioning if you have a sensitive tummy. Start with a raw meal after 12-24 hours of a kibble one, start with a smaller amount, maybe with some pumpkin. If your dog doesn’t like half-frozen, try a room temperature meal but make sure you don’t leave the food out very long.

    Moo’s food is at the bottom. She gets the same raw and a chicken heart (for taurine)

    Digestive issues

    If your dog gets sick or has stomach issues after switching, watch their poop. As soon as Whiskey or Bourbon gets diarrhea or vomits more than once, I switch straight to slow cooked turkey, white rice, and pumpkin (or carrots). I also use Gutsense from Dr Dobias (probiotics specifically for dogs). I used to use another brand but once I looked up the ingredients I was really disgusted and found Gutsense. I keep feeding until the poop looks good for a couple days, then slowly transition back to raw. I basically just throw everything into a slowcooker and make a massive amount of congee (Chinese rice soup). Giardia is pretty prevalent where I live and after I learned to do this we haven’t had to go to the vet over any stomach issues since they clear up themselves.

    BC Sources we have tried and used and recommend

    RainCity meats $ (delivery) email muttleycrewadventures@gmail.com for details
    Beltrame meats $
    B&T Raw $
    In the Raw $$
    Nutrience Subzero Raw (Petsmart) $$$
    True Carnivores $$ (delivery)
    Open Farm (Discount Code Whiskey10) $$$
    Supplements from Dr Dobias $$

  • How Big Will my Vizsla be? Female Puppy Weight Charts

    How Big Will my Vizsla be? Female Puppy Weight Charts

    I’ve been tracking Whiskey and Bourbon’s weight as they’ve been growing up and it’s a frequent question I get. Whiskey’s adult weight is about 52lbs, which she reached over 2 years old for reference. Whiskey was weaned from kibble to homecooked food, to raw as a puppy. Bourbon was switched straight to raw within 2 days (raw-fed reportedly slower to reach full weight). Whiskey had numerous digestive issues (Giardia, picky eating) as a puppy, and Bourbon has had none (outside of eating questionable rotten carcasses outside).

    Vizsla puppy held by female with huge ears
    Whiskey when she was a tiny pup with gigantic ears

    Whiskey’s Puppy Weight Chart

    DayWeekLbsKg
    771116.57.5
    831216.57.5
    9013188.2
    1041520.59.3
    1181724.711.2
    132192812.7
    1462132.414.7
    1532232.814.9
    1612333.715.3
    1632333.715.3
    1682434.215.5
    1732536.216.4
    1832638.417.4
    2483540.318.3
    Female vizsla puppy sitting on bed
    Bourbon as a puppy

    Bourbon’s Weight chart

    DayWeekLbsKg
    831117.27.8
    911319.68.9
    9914219.5
    107152210
    1131623.210.5
    119172511.3
    1311826.211.9
    1432029.813.5
    155223214.5
    1662335.416.1
    171243616.3
    1812537.216.9
    190273817.2

    Click here for The Journey of a Vizsla Puppy: the cutest shark in town

    Click here for How to Train your Puppy to Recall Off Leash

    Click here for Puppy Dog Chews- an extensive list

  • Finding a Breeder

    Finding a Breeder

    So you’re sure you want a Vizsla? But how do you find a breeder, a great breeder that will support and help you throughout your pup’s lifetime? What IS a good breeder and what should you look for? These are all subjective of course, but here’s what I find important

    1. Communication is super high on my list. Do they respond to emails quickly and personally? Are they answering all your questions in detail, perhaps they are asking you lots of questions as well (which is great!). If you can, ask to jump on a phone call and ask them about their dogs, their experience, and what they are looking for in a potential client. VISIT if it’s at all possible, and see the living space, meet the parents if possible, and see how the puppies will be brought up.
    2. Testing for health is partially why you don’t just go to a rescue and pick up a dog (if it’s even possible). Make sure both parents have had their eyes, hips, elbows, and what is required in your area tested and the results are good or excellent. ASK about allergies, ask about anxieties, and if any previous puppies have had early deaths, seizures, or history of aggression in any manner.
    3. Dogs have been shown in the showring and/or tested for work (champions in the field). The purpose of this is that to ethically breed, there needs to a purpose, not just monetary to further the breed. There should be thought put into which dog to breed with, their genetics, and if the dogs meet a standard judged by a trained 3rd party. Also, the dog isn’t under the age of 2, or has been bred under the age of 2 (hip tests are generally done after 2).
    4. References from others have had dogs from the breeder, but mostly references from other breeders is key. If multiple reputable breeders respect and would recommend another breeder, that’s a really good sign. When you are rejected, or told that a waiting list is years long (this will happen!), ask the breeder whom they would recommend and why, and don’t forget to ask whom to avoid!
    5. Hard vetting, health guarantees, and contracts that insist the dog will go back the breeder should you not be able to keep the dog. When you approach a breeder, you’ll be asked loads of questions so they can be sure you’re an appropriate family and is a good fit for their dogs. It can seem excessive and I’ve been turned down over and over, but placing a puppy isn’t just a one time business transaction. A good breeder is responsible for all their puppies for their entire lifetimes. This is super important and makes sure that these dogs will never be found in a shelter or rescue. It also gives you recourse if your dog develops health issues early, or is delivered sick.

    Whiskey’s Breeder

    Whiskey’s breeder doesn’t breed anymore but her lines are from Akar in Quebec City. There are a couple breeders I’ve met in person in BC that I would recommended and a couple I’ve heard of from friends as well. We’ve been unlucky with some potential breeders (small litters, no litter, or male only litters) in the past so don’t expect a breeding to work out.

    How to look for a breeder

    Check your local clubs to start with a list. Join a Vizsla meetup to meet the breed and talk to owners. Head over to a local show, or field test day and meet the breeders. Email, call, talk and keep it up!

    Links
    Vizsla Club of America
    VCA Signs of a Responsible Breeder
    VCA code of ethics
    USA list of Vizsla clubs
    National Vizsla Association

    Vizsla Puppies Facebook Group

    Vizsla Canada
    VA Responsible Breeder
    VA list of breeders (not recommended, just a list)
    VA top dogs (review against breeders list)
    Vizsla Society of Ontario
    BC all breed pointer club

    Vizsla forum