Never been camping with your dog? Here’s the basics to get you thinking!
Planning/Before
-set up a tent in your home, or your backyard, go inside with your dog, bring lots of treats, and hang out to get them comfortable -zip up and down the tent while you are inside together -take your dog inside the tent after they are exercised and take a nap together -Open a door halfway and show them how to get in and out even if the doorway isn’t open all the way -Teach your dog to wait until you open the door to jump in -Teach your dog what the mesh is, that they cannot go through the mesh when it is closed -do not zip your dog inside the tent, with you outside (or vice versa) until you are confident they are calm -start with car camping, you always have a place to escape to, and you can easily bring more gear -make sure you camp with someone experienced or are comfortable camping alone, there’s nothing worse than having to take care of both your dog and a human! -choose a place to camp where you can easily walk your dog during the day, we always research trails around the campsite as well as trails while driving to and from the location. Do this before you are out of reception! -I advise to get tents that are not ultralight. Ultralight tents are have very thin mesh and materials and tend to rip quickly when a dog taps the material in order to get out. Duct tape is always a good idea! -here’s a post I wrote specifically about tents and dogs -Babywipes are always useful! Camping was never a clean activity!
When you get to the site
-go somewhere that isn’t packed with as much space as possible between campsites, book or choose a campsite away from bathrooms, perhaps in the corner of the campground where you will have the least amount of people wandering by – bring a long line to tie up your dog if they wander, a Tuflex check cord works the best as it doesn’t knot, is easy to clean, and is still flexible in cold weather -if there are bugs, see if you can bring natural bug repellent like citronella candles, read all the directions of bug repellents. Remember your dog is (most likely) smaller than you and are more effected by poisons. There are some bug sprays and electric repellents that state you cannot use when you are eating or around small ponds with fish (it poisons the water) or with babies or kids. I would not use these with pets! -a dog mat is always a good idea, even if you dog doesn’t need it, just to keep everything clean, and to have a “place” for your dog to return to on command.
During
-say hi to your neighbours if they’re friendly and introduce your dog, mention that it’s their first time camping and bring treats if it helps. Be really nice especially if they have kids or another dog. -walk your dog around the campground if he’s friendly -respect your neighbours and make sure you clean up after your dog -if your dog wakes up early or stays up late due to the unfamiliar territory, take him for a walk to tire him out -try and keep to any routines you might have at home (time you eat, sleep, bedtime routines) -close the fly so your dog cannot see outside if they are guarding, or barking at noises or people -keep an eye out for people passing by and work on rewarding your pup for not barking, and for being friendly, the site will probably be “his” territory so you’ll have to make sure your dog knows who’s in charge and that you have your eye on things -If you must leave your dog (to go to the bathroom or clean dishes for example), leave them in the car to avoid wildlife, strangers coming by, or whatever else may happen, do not leave your dog in the tent alone. I’ve had my tent “walk” after me on occasion. You can also leash your dog outside the bathroom or ask someone to keep them while you go. -keep a jar of treat (or kibble) around and use this as a training opportunity, although respect rules about food and wildlife, especially bears.
Afterwards
-Pick up after yourself and your pup when you leave the campground -Inspect your tent for any holes or damage and repair it before the next trip -If you hit any issues with camping, work on training at home before going out again. If there are issues guarding, or anxieties, you can practice at home or in a backyard before heading out -Make a list of equipment or situations that could be improved. Depending on where and how you camp, there are loads of gear and solutions that may be available. For instance my dogs prefer to sleep on my mat, in my sleeping bag no matter how many dog beds I bring, so I now have an extra long, extra wide mat and sleeping bag to house them. However while I’m not actively sleeping, I bring their own beds that can be dirtied and used in and out of the tent so they can go in and out of a bed while not making a mess out of mine.
My aging beauty 8 years old and sugar-faced with a flower crown
Whiskey just turned 8 and the reality of an older dog is hitting hard. Although we are still doing all the long distance multi-day hiking, the trail runs, and offleash walks at least twice a day, Whiskey’s slowing down and I know she’s getting achy just like me. Sometimes we hike over 12 hours a day, half on scree and boulder fields, scrambling 2000m+ (7000 ft) vertically up and down mountains. The longest hike we did last year was 8 days in a row and Whiskey did every single one of the extra side-trips and peaks.
Just last year I started researching what supplements might be good for joints as a preventative to keep Whiskey oiled and feeling good over long days. Although I have very little knowledge compared to vets or specialists, I’d like to share what we’re using since so many ask. Keep in mind, Whiskey has no current issues and everything is used as a preventative. I also feed my dogs raw at home (other things while we travel), and take a balanced approach to their health (between traditional and holistic). I also do not make money off any links (feel free to buy me a coffee or shop in my store if you want to support me)
Omega-3s Fish Oil– There’s a huge list of studied benefits of Omega-3 fatty acids for humans and the same holds true for puppies and dogs. It can be used as treatment for arthritis and kidney disease in older dogs and is great for skin, coat, nervous system and joints. I use squid oil to avoid mercury.
Glucosamine– One of the most used ingredients for join supplements. Similar to humans, glucosamine helps keep our cartilage healthy but as we age, the body makes less which can lead to joint breakdown and inflammation. Daily supplements usually made of shellfish can relieve pain and help inflammation.
Chondroitin Sulfate-Chondroitin helps mobility and flexibility and prevents the break down of cartilage. It works well combined with Glucosamine to help joints, and even stimulate repair mechanisms.
MSM– is a natural chemical in dogs and humans (and other living things) and is used to treat arthritis. Like Glucosamine and Chondroitin, it can be used to support connective tissue and has antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects.
Turmeric– The active ingredient in Turmeric is curcumin that has been studied to be an effective anti inflammatory without the side effects of traditional drugs. I use Turmeric after we’ve had a big day, and tend to carry it on hiking road-trips.
CBD– CBD interacts with the endocannabinoid system to block pain signals and reduce joint inflammation. I’ve only used this as a treatment, not preventative but I thought to put this on the list. Make sure any CBD oil you buy is specifically for dogs so there is no trace of THC in it. Not all CBD products are made the same, and my own vet suggests that good quality oil is the most effective way to go.
Egg shell membrane– My physiotherapist suggested I take NEM (Natural Eggshell Membrane) for my own knee issues so naturally, I looked into it for Whiskey. Since we eat eggs all the time, I just feed the membrane to her since it’s a “free” supplement. Egg shell membrane contains proteins such as collagen, but also chondroitin sulfate, and glucosamine so it’s basically an amazing addition to everything else I’m feeding. The easiest way to break the membrane from the egg (if your dog doesn’t eat eggshells) is to crack a bit of the shell at the top, and then use that crack to peel the membrane off.
The last year Whiskey will be carrying a load
Products we use/have used
Some people start their dogs on joint supplements after 3 years old, some only when they see problems like stiff joints or limping after a big day. How much, how soon, you use these depend on your dog, your breed, financial ability and comfort. The availability of specific brands will depend on where you live and the quality of the brand is quite important so dig in a little and ask vets if they do NOT recommend a brand, or sport dog trainers that have tried several local options and can compare. Lastly keep in mind food allergies (specifically shellfish and beef) when choosing supplements.
Nutramax Cosequin- It’s affordable (I buy this at Costco) and includes all the basics (glucosamine and chondroitin sulfate, MSM). Whiskey gets this daily
Green-Lipped Mussels– These mussels are from New Zealand and are super tasty with fries, but also are join supplements with omega-3s, chondroitin and glycosaminoglycans. I buy a powder form and add it with Whiskey’s regular supplements on top of her raw food in the mornings.
FeelGood Omega-3 – I trust this brand of supplements (I use others for both Whiskey and Bourbon) to have carefully researched ingredients for my dogs. I used to use salmon oil but then realized it wasn’t sustainable and higher levels of mercury. Calamari populations are increasing vs krill and fish. Both dogs get this daily!
CBD– I honestly cannot remember the brand we used but it was recommended by my vet. There seems to be quite a difference in quality of the oils so definitely do your research and not just go with the cheapest one.
Recovery– I’ve used this when Whiskey’s had a limp and it’s been recommended by most active senior dog owners I’ve met. I would use this as a treatment, not preventative. It includes MSM and glucosamine hydrochloride as the top ingredients.
Pup Snax™ Daily Immune Plus Probiotic – I recently discovered this from Puppington and it works well as a daily chew for everything. It has Glucosamine, Chondroitin, Wild Alaskan Salmon Oil, Turmeric, and then a probiotic blend on top.
Vizsla’s aren’t the sort of dog that’s good for everyone, they aren’t the “best” family dog, nor the dog that fits into every situation. Contrary to my entire website and life, I find myself discouraging many people I talk to in the dog park from getting a Vizsla “because they’re so pretty what’s the breed?”. It’s totally false advertising when they see a calm Vizsla heeling at my side downtown, ignoring other dogs and squirrels and posing for the camera. I just happen to have an oddity, that I poured hundreds of hours into training, and that has been out hiking 4 times already this week. Bourbon’s a better example…except she’s either not visible on trails because she’s elsewhere, or she’s wrapping herself around the legs of a stranger all cute and noodley. They don’t see all the time, energy and money spent!
Very pretty dogs, can work against them if they bought just for looks
The Good Stuff
The problem with Vizslas, is that upon appearance (if they are standing still enough to see, or by photographs on the internet) they look amazing. They’re gorgeous, short haired, don’t smell much, look sweet tempered, and a very reasonable size. A quick Google search will tell you Vizslas are gentle natured, loyal, friendly, versatile, and eager to please. So what’s not to like? Why are Vizslas not the next Labs or Golden Retrievers fit for any family?
The (potentially) Bad Stuff
Breeders get hundreds of emails a week during Covid…so it will be very hard to find a good one
It’s hard to even buy a good one
First off, Vizslas are prone to Epileptic seizures, skin allergies, cancers, and other disorders. It’s not more than the typical breed, but if you don’t find a reputable breeder that screens for these issues, you could have a sick dog. Finding breeders and getting a puppy (especially in less than 2 years) is extremely difficult and most people do not want to wait this long, or do so much homework, send so many emails and phone calls just to buy a dog. Going the less reputable direction can buy you a dog with a huge variety of issues that are screened by ethical breeders. I’ve seen this happen time and time again, and it’s so sad to see an early death, sick puppy, and dangerous behavioural issues.
Goodbye Bourbon! After 8 days of continuous backcountry hiking, she was good to keep going!
The energy level is not ideal for most
Most people’s life does not allow for 2 hour walks outside, hunting, running their dog in an agility ring, or spending so much time centered around their dog. Between a job, kids, social engagements, travel, there are few people that would be ok walking their dog for hours outside, even when it’s raining, even in the winter, even after work in the dark. Vizslas are high energy dogs that love to use their brains, learn new things, and are extremely versatile in work they can do. The key is WORK. They love having a job, pleasing their human, and doing well at their jobs. It’s like the A+ student at the front of the class, hands up to answer every question, on speed. These dogs want to run, sniff, do things or they can be destructive when bored. They’re not ideal if you like a calm household, expect order, and your children aren’t the rough and tumble sort.
Bird dogs want to hunt for birds and will hunt regardless of your own preferencesBourbon can become deaf if she’s chasing birds. She’ll run for hours until you can catch her!
A hunting dog wants to hunt
If you’re a hunter, wonderful! But if you don’t hunt and you get a hunting dog, please expect your dog to want to hunt things. If you’re not interested in a dog that sniffs out dead animals, stalks pigeons, and shakes with excitement at every squirrel in the park, then this can get frustrating. They’re bred to respond to hunt and find prey so this might not be ideal for lots of people. The ability can be aimed at work (sniff work for example) or you might take your dog out to hunt tests, but if you’d like your dog to walk on leash calmly on a hiking trail near a bird sanctuary…you have hundreds of hours of training to do.
Vizslas love sitting on their humans, being with their humans and touching them
Velcro is not an exaggeration- Separation anxiety
Vizslas are known as Velcro dogs and although many of my own friends are dog lovers, they don’t really want a dog glued to them at all times. Some like to go to the bathroom alone, take a shower without someone checking up on them, and some others would like to work without a dog in their chair. It’s very typical for Vizslas to wake themselves up and follow you from room to room just be close to you. If “personal space” is something you treasure…this is not the right breed!
To further the point, this breed needs humans to be close and if you’re not around much, can develop separation anxiety. They’re not an independent breed that will be fine without you. Leave a Vizsla outside in a backyard and you’ll see them staring at you on the other side of the glass door wanting you to be out there with them. A backyard will do you no good unless you’re having fun with them outside.
Bourbon in no less than 3 layers for a 6 hour hike in the cold. I had to carry extra layers in case
Short-haired and Climate
Vizslas have very short hair and only one coat so if your climate is colder, the breed may not be ideal. These are indoor dogs, not outdoors and cannot survive in low temperatures like double-coated dogs. I constantly need to bring jackets, boots, and more if we are going for long 5+ hour adventures in weather that may not be ideal. They can hate the rain, and shiver miserably, and can have a hard time retrieving in icy cold waters, especially for a length of time.
Boots and jackets are not needed for huskies in conditions like these
Time and Energy needed
More than most breeds, Vizslas are a bit like tiny humans in that they take TIME and ENERGY. They’ll give you back so much love, but you need to put in the time and energy first. They demand it, and you will see this under no uncertain terms. They’re very needy dogs, with lots of feelings and emotions and love to hear your voice. They love to be pampered with blankets and pillows and attention. Whiskey will interrupt me at work, insistently asking for me to just stare into her eyes and love on her. Bourbon will sit and whine until I tend to her emotional needs.
Sensitive to a fault
Have you ever met anyone that seemed to take things you said the wrong way? Maybe your tone of voice or wording and they were instantly hurt? There are some dogs that people can yell at and train pretty harshly without too much trauma but Vizslas can shut down quickly. Bourbon is quick to frighten and remembers every tiny thing forever. I’ve seen so many Vizslas scream and shake and cower after receiving a bump or nip from another dog where most dogs might recover in a couple seconds. I’ve had Vizslas limp over to me, totally distressed with a hanging paw and I’ve had to ‘pretend’ to look them over, kiss their limp paw and tell them they’re ok. And then off they run full speed and ‘recovered’.
The sensitivity can also show up in food sensitivities or drama when not feeling well. Whiskey was SUCH a picky eater with tummy problems when she was younger. When she got giardia (diarrhea and vomiting) and I brought her to the vet and because she was being so dramatic the vet thought she was much worse than she actually was. Her heartbeat was too slow, she was shaking (emotional) and hiding underneath my chair in a ball. There’s alot of managing emotions that might not be as big an issue with other dogs.
Stamina and speed
Vizslas were bred to run fast, and run long. They can keep up with horseback and go all day. Perhaps you don’t want a dog that recovers from a 25km run in a couple hours, or a puppy that just *never* goes to sleep. There were so many times I would drive out 2 hours for a hike, hike 6 hours, and drive back. By the time I got home, Whiskey was ready to go again, and I still hadn’t unpacked my hiking bag! Stamina is amazing, but it might not be what you want in a dog. These are the dogs you bring to a dog park and they run one dog after another until the entire park is exhausted and lying down…except your Vizsla is now ready for a one hour game of fetch.
One of the best dog-friendly hikes in the area, the “Chief” overlooks the Howe Sound with incredible views of Squamish and peaks around. It’s one of my favorite sunset hikes and an iconic location for locals and tourists alike. There’s loads of blogs and descriptions of this hike so I’m going to keep this very dog-oriented.
As this is a hike up a mountain, it involves lots of elevation gain over a short distance. There are never-ending stairs, lots of big steps, and can be difficult to those not used to this sort of hike. Please go slow if you’re tired and take the breaks you need to. The only bathrooms are the ones at parking, so make sure you go before starting!
The Chief has 3 peaks (creatively called 1st, 2nd, and 3rd) and it’s possible to do one or all of them in one go. The first peak is the lowest at 630m , and 2nd at 680 and finally 3rd at 702m. For dogs, the 2nd peak is the hardest to climb as there’s the longest metal ladder with an awkward section between rock that can be hard to get through without holding your dog. Each peak is possible but I would suggest 1st peak if you’re looking for something quicker and 3rd peak if you want the most dog-friendly, least busy route (but also the longest).
Warnings for dogs
These trails are busy and well trafficked and like most busy trails here, people leave food and there are chipmunks and crows on the peaks. If your dogs might go after chipmunks and run off the cliffs PLEASE keep them far from edges and have a leash system that will not break or slip off your hands. Harnesses are usually more secure than a collar from an unexpected run. There are also climbers coming up from unexpected places so be aware in case your dog might get scared of people popping out of nowhere.
This hike is NOT puppy-friendly. The steepness paired with the hard rock is too long and strenuous for growing joints unless you will carry your older puppy down yourself (I put Bourbon in a 65L backpack).
The trail is so busy that it can be common for dogs to find human feces along the route. Just a warning, it happens frequently and sometimes people don’t go more than 1 foot off the trail. Be careful as I’m always scared it could be laced with THC.
When I hike in the dark, I always have lights on the dogs just in case anyone might get scared and they have lots of warning. Like any off-leash dog hike, clean up after your pup (garbage bins are at the bottom), and keep them off the trail for any leashed dogs, people that might be scared, and children. The bottom section has a fast running dangerous river so make sure water loving dogs are kept away from the current. There is no water source outside from this so I would advise bringing all the water your dogs may need.
Parking and trail start
starts off with so many stairs
The most common trail (the only one I would suggest for dogs) starts at the chief parking lot and goes through the campground. There are pit toilets and garbage here and keep your dog on leash until you reach the trailhead with the stairs. There are no more toilets or garbage bins beyond the trailhead. Once you start up the stairs, you will hike up up up.
The trail is mostly lots of big rock steps
The first split is for the Sea to Sky Gondola (also dog friendly, with a small chain section most dogs can go up without help). Dogs are allowed to ride the Sea to Sky gondola down (but not up) if you’re looking for something different. The second split is for 3rd peak, and the 3rd split is for 1st peak. If you continue straight without turning off you will end up on 2nd peak.
1st Peak 630m
First short ladder up 1st
There are two ladders to 1st peak, both somewhat short and dogs can avoid them. The first ladder is halfway between the peak and the split to 2nd. It’s pretty short and dogs can veer off to the left side and gain the same incline without a ladder. You can also lift them up the ladder easily, or, if they like agility, they can use the branches around the ladder to climb up (this is Whiskey’s preference, I don’t know a single other dog that would do this).
At some point you’ll see permanent chains attached to rock that you don’t really need to hike up, but they do lead to a narrow section with some bigger steps that a dog might need help getting around (Whiskey and Bourbon can work out a route around them without help). There are 3 options for dogs getting up this section.
The first way is to head up on the right hand side around or before the chains. Both human and dog can take this together to avoid the entire section I write about below.
the thin second ladder up 1st
This narrow section leads to a thin ladder on an angle. Before the ladder, dogs can make their way up the left side of the rock without help. The 3rd option is for dogs to climb the ladder (Whiskey loves climbing up and down this to show off to onlookers). Because the ladder is on an angle and placed on the rock, if a dog’s paws slip through, it just touches rock. I suggest climbing right underneath your dog so you can support them up if they need help. Bourbon can also climb up this way but less gracefully.
view of Garibaldi
Coming down, Bourbon prefers to take the route to the left, (the right when you are coming down) and Whiskey prefers the ladder. It’s harder for dogs to walk down a ladder than up and I always suggest being underneath your dog so you can help them if they want to do this.
Steep down, slippery when icy. Keep puppies on leash (like B)
The peak is beautiful and quick to gain. You have the best views of Garibaldi from here and great views of the city. The peak here can be very icy in some conditions so bring spikes if you suspect it might be so!
2nd Peak 680m
There are two ways up 2nd peak. The first is the direct route from the split of 1st peak. It’s the hardest section for dogs. There’s a way around the entire ladder section but it’s quite steep (you must turn off before the narrow part that leads to the ladder. This ladder is vertical and long so you’ll have to fireman carry your dog up the ladder. I never go up this route with the dogs, I normally go the other direction as getting down a ladder with 50lbs on your neck is easier and safer than going up.
The longest ladder on 2nd
The second way up 2nd peak is coming from 3rd peak. There’s a trail between the peaks that doesn’t involve ladders or extremely steep sections. I typically come up the 3rd peak, and down the second, if I’m doing second at all (I don’t tend to hike 2nd). Between the peaks is a huge drop-off so please be aware and keep your dogs on leash if you’re not 100% sure they will not run off after a chipmunk.
between 2nd and 3rd there’s a huge drop
3rd Peak 702m
the most dog friendly
3rd peak is the only one without ladders or ropes and I frequently have the entire peak to myself on weekdays. This is the one I hike the most with my girls, as its the longest option, the best views (in my opinion) and the least busy. It’s also the most rugged trail out of all 3 options and you may be looking for the trail markers on a number of occasions. I absolutely love this one on a less busy day and I’ve spent at least one birthday here eating cake with my friends.
If you’re confident hiking back down in the dark, it’s fantastic for sunsets and you’ll most likely be the only one up there. If you have the time and don’t mind a bit of trail-finding, this is the one I would recommend to do with your dogs if you’re only doing one peak!
I’ve been using and trying boots on our girls for years and wanted to share an updated revision of my last review here. Many of the older boots are no longer in production but you can still get them used and there are very similar copies out there with the same benefits and issues. I’ve grouped the boots into categories that I’ve made notes on. Please let me know what you think! These are based soley on my opinion and nothing more. My girls do not have dewclaws, and are short-haired Vizslas.
Dewclaws/ Small paws
One of the biggest hurdles to booties are dewclaws or if your dog has small paws (in relation to ankles) and the boots slip off easily. Even though my girls do not have these issues, this is the advice I’ve seen works. Dewclaws rub on straps, edges of boots and over time they can bleed and make boots very painful. Some boots have straps in better locations (you need to try them) but even without a strap, the inward pressure on the dewclaw and material rubbing can be painful.
If you notice this happening, use Vet Wrap (any brand will do, same used for humans) which is a self adhesive wrap under and then over the dewclaw. Do not wrap too tightly so it cuts off circulation or too loosely that it will move. It’s to prevent the dewclaw from moving too much. Then either put the boot over it, or use a sock on top.
Socks are another layer of protection for dewclaws, or dogs with paws that are too slim so boots slip off. Either with or without the vet wrap, slide the boot on, and secure with vet wrap or medical tape. Then slip the boots on top. You will need to experiment to see what works best for each circumstance.
Classic
These boots are the classic ones I see. They tend to have a soft material on the top, and a rubber sole on the bottom with a strap around the ankle. No matter what anyone says, they are not waterproof, but they’re ok with packed wetter snow. The ankle strap can be very difficult with dewclaws and if you don’t use a sock, they can have a hard time staying on if your dog runs around off leash. A trick is to twist the boot both ways a little bit (clockwise and anticlockwse about a quarter twist) before tightening the strap.
Ruffwear Polar Trex -Thick soles with gaiters. Good idea but Whiskey didn’t like these. She couldn’t feel the ground and the gaiters took up and kept snow inside.
Canine Equipment Ultimate Trail Boots -4 different boots, L/R back sized smaller than front. Discontinued, longer review here. I liked these boots for the thinner soles, easy to put on straps and warranty that my friends had tried. Unfortunately some of the older boots I had purchased had started wearing on the top and the material split disintegrating to pieces. I’m still using whatever is left however.
Hurtta Dog boots – We used these until they broke. The fabric on the middle/center of the heel wore through and made holes. Whiskey didn’t mind these and they stayed on if you pulled the strap tightly and then wove it back through the strap in the front. Otherwise they would come off. A new version is supposed to be coming soon.
Expawlorer Amazon dog boots -All these Amazon boots look like they’re made in the same factory with different names. They seem decent for the low price, ok for dogs without dewclaws walking on leash in packed snow or the city. Depending on your dog’s paws they may stay on for play, or they may not!
Old pair of Hurtta boots. The weak point was the velcro and where the boot joined the sole
Musher’s
This type of boot is what we used on mushing dogs while dogsledding in the Yukon a decade ago. They’re very cheap, easy to put on and off, and are thin so the dogs can feel the ground. You won’t be too frustrated if you loose a couple of these but they won’t last as the fabric does wear out. These boots are good for packed snow on trails, nothing wet (or they will freeze), when you just want to keep the ice out. They’re also a very easy beginner boot if your dog is fussy about the thick soled ones with thick straps
after 2.5 hours in the snow, you can see the ice building
Non-stop Dog Wear -my current favorite for cross country skiing. Even in -20 degrees on a packed trail my girls have not complained and are happy to run. They will not protect as much from direct cold as a thicker sole and does collect ice around the ankles after a couple hours.
Higher boots
There are all higher up the leg than some of the short boots. This can be better or worse for dogs with dewclaws depending on the location of the straps. It’s better for trails where the dogs need just a bit more length so snow doesn’t fill in, but can be worse if the snow does fill in and collects to make ice balls.
Muttluks– I like Muttluks as an emergency bootie but the straps aren’t great so I duct tape them to Bourbon’s paws. They’re also all the same size so looser fit.
Voyager K9 Apparel– the highest boot and better for shorter walks, not major hiking
Great because snow does not stick to Neoprene and even when wet, Neoprene will hold in heat (it’s what wetsuits are made out of to keep people warm in the water). Not great because it’s very thick material and if your dog needs the feel the ground or any kind of technical surface they will probably not like it (Whiskey struggled).
Neopaws – a huge variety of sizes and orthopedic options, but very thick sole
For snow that’s a bit higher but NOT deep snow. Gaiters will fill with deep snow if there isn’t a seal on the boots and snow will just fill in and collect with no way out (we’ve experienced this and took them off in deep snow). Otherwise it’s great because you can’t lose the boots. They’re complicated to put on, but I used them on both dogs without issues or complaints. Backcountry Paws seems to be constantly out of stock, but I would recommend them if they were possible to order. Contrary to what you might think, I would recommend them for more packed trails so snow won’t get in, or for dogs that won’t go swimming in deep snow.
paw Pup Wax – use after out for a long time or exposure to salt
Musher’s wax -works if your dog isn’t cold but gets ice balls around the long hairs between their paws (first would be to cut them shorter). They also do protect for a couple degrees difference (say if your dog needs boots at -5 degrees this might help make a 4 degree difference) and against salt but it does wear off. It it on right before you get out of the car when it’s slightly warmer as I’ve had a harder time when the wax is frozen.
When I first brought Whiskey home, she was eating kibble and for some reason, kibble just didn’t really make “sense” to me. I avoid highly processed food in general because it just doesn’t make me feel so good, and I wanted to feed Whiskey something I understood and felt good about. To me, food should look like food, and I started cooking for her and trying different menu options. I wasn’t against kibble sometimes, but I just felt that since I wouldn’t like to eat nutrition bars all my life (but hey once in awhile is fine), I wanted to try and feed more fresh foods to my growing puppy.
After a couple weeks it just became very time consuming and I was getting anxious about balancing all the required nutrients. It’s very hard to know how much calcium you’re feeding for example, and although Whiskey LOVED the cooked meals, it just wasn’t a practical long term solution. At that point she ate more food than I did, and I was making a huge batch of slow-cooked food every other day and grocery shopping just took too much money and time.
Raw meat mix with leftover veges I had in the fridge
Soon after I shifted her onto raw food, but it took me 1 year to figure out what Whiskey did best on, and where best to buy from. Whiskey was very picky with food, and she had multiple issues with Guardia and diarrhea, vomiting, and other illnesses in the beginning so it took awhile to find our rhythm. In the end, I found out that Whiskey likes semi-frozen meals, and doesn’t like chicken, gamey bird meats (like Quail and duck), but is ok with Turkey. When I say she doesn’t “like”, she’s not intolerant, she just refuses to eat it, and will pick at her food for weeks if I try to out-stubborn her and would get way too skinny. Whiskey seems to do well on lean meats like Turkey, Lamb, Pork, and Elk (we had a scare where we thought she might have had Pancreatitis), and is very sensitive to greasy foods (much more sensitive than Bourbon for example). Every dog is different and it’s really good to find out what works for your dog (like people!).
Nutrience pre-mix with raw elk, canned pumpkin leftover rice, and raw egg
Bourbon also came kibble-fed and I was able to switch her over to raw within one meal several days after she settled into our home. She had no tummy problems and eats really well. Bourbon eats meats well but is oddly picky with new foods like vegetables and fruits. While Whiskey will beg for orange slices and strawberries, Bourbon won’t touch them. Each dog is different! Bourbon’s done well with every protein we’ve thrown at her. The only thing I have to keep in mind is to slowly increase her large “bone meals” (meaty bones as a meal) or she’ll be overwhelmed with a bone too large! Bourbon loves fish, even whole fish, while Whiskey will only eat small chopped up fish.
What a typical block of frozen dog meat looks like. 10% bone, 5% liver, 5% kidney/spleen 80% muscle meat
Vet opposition
Most traditional vets are opposed to the raw diet for a variety of reasons. Most studies about dog food are done and funded by large dog food companies and there is very little financial incentive to study the benefits to raw so first off there’s little evidence to back raw food as being an healthier alternative. Raw food manufacturers are new and small (and tend to be local because raw is harder to ship) and don’t have the resources to fund these studies.
Also because raw diets vary so much, vets can be scared of the possibility of nutritional imbalances. There are definitely some people that aren’t going to do the research or even know that this is something you need to do. If you feed only hamburger meat and eggshells, your dog is going to be sick, so you’ll need to do a minimal amount of research or purchase a pre-mixed raw. At the least a dog needs muscle meat, organ (lots of minerals and vitamins in organs), and bone. Last, the risk of meat-borne bacteria. While there is always a risk of handing raw meat, it’s not more so than any meat that you eat (we buy all human grade meat for our dogs). Vets don’t want to take on the extra liability if they recommend a raw diet.
We’ve worked with vets that oppose or support our raw feeding but once they see how healthy our dogs are, their teeth, coat, and demeanor, I haven’t been given too much grief. I’ve found over time they’re more supportive or at least there’s less opposition.
Semi-frozen seems like the best texture for most dogs. Some will eat fully frozen, and most that I know aren’t crazy about fully defrost soft mushy raw blend. For meaty bones, Whiskey didn’t’ want to work for her meal, so I would sear the sides of the turkey neck or lamb neck to get her “into it”. I also taught the dogs to eat on a mat for easy indoor cleanup. I feed my cat the same meat as my dogs, I just add extra taurine into the food for her (in the form of hearts).
Everyday I defrost the next day’s meat and feed the meal I put in the day earlier so its’ semi defrosted in the fridge. We have a deep freezer (even in the apartment we bought a deep freezer) so we can get about 120 lbs of meat at a time to keep costs and shopping less. We use THESE containers and put a couple blocks in. Whiskey eats about 1.5lbs and Bourbon (currently 8 months) eats about 2lbs. I use a fork to break up the semi-frozen blocks into a bowl, add any extras, and feed. It takes approx. 2 mins to prepare. We use a sanitizing wipe or spray on the mats after they’ve eaten and that’s about it. I’m extra cautious about tripe and I’m always in the room with the girls while they eat. I like to prevent any guarding issues with eating (all 3 are fed at the same time), and if we’re feeding bones, I’m also there to encourage them to stay on the mat. They also eat better and are less insecure if I’m there. If one finishes much faster, I’m also there to remove a temptation for one to go after another’s meal.
a 40lb box of bulk raw meat, straight into the deep freezer, we get 3 at a time
I usually buy my food in bulk 40lb boxes of a single protein although sometimes I might get patties, or pre-mixes to make my life easier (or if someone is pet-sitting I want their lives to be easy!). Most mixes we use are around 80% muscle meat, 10% organ and 10% bone.
Beef -local, but higher fat, prefer elk but harder to find Turkey- our go to protein, lean and easier to digest than chicken Pork- lean, we use rarely but I do like to mix in different protein, there is a blanket warning about feeding raw pork because of larvae of Trichinella spiralis (a parasite), however this is not an issue in Canada Elk- Low in fat, we love elk but hard to find and more expensive Fish- whole fish from Asian food markets, or fish byproduct from our local fish shop (odds and ends that don’t make it to human products), please note to freeze wild caught salmon or any hunted meats for 3 weeks before feeding to avoid parasites
Nutrience Raw or other pre-mix- just feed packets and done! includes supplements, veg, variety meat mixed already
Make sure the premix has muscle meat, bone, and organ, if not, then make sure you add some. You don’t need to add it in equally every meal, just overall. For instance some premix doesn’t have bone because it’s hard to grind up beef bones. I might feed 3 meals of beef without bone (2 meals a day) and then feed one meal of meaty bone. If I don’t add veg to one meal, I might add extra to another. You’re aiming for variety overall, not variety in every meal.
raw turkey with sardines, egg, and Dr Dobias supplements
lamb neck- Whiskey’s favorite, a good treat I can’t always afford, Whiskey prefers it seared (roll eyes here) chicken carcass- Moo and Bourbon, best to start puppies from chicken/turkey hearts- for Moo (I feed her dog meat mix and add extra hearts for taurine) turkey/duck neck- Bourbon loves, Whiskey doesn’t seem to digest these well anymore (although turkey meat is ok) green tripe- Amazing for both dogs, I try to find whole pieces, not ground down (cheaper and less processed), super smelly but healthy if you can deal with the smell (not for the newly initiated into raw feeding!) pumpkin (canned)/ steamed yams steamed veges, chopped spinach, chicken egg/quail egg berries leftovers (nothing greasy, toxic, saucy)
Supplements I use, I don’t really need to but I feel better!
I use GreenMin, Soulfood from Dr Dobias (I use about a 1/3 of the recommended amount a day) Fish/sardines/krill oil for omega 3s Turmeric as an inflammatory (after high impact activity, or any swelling) Green lipped mussel for joints Kiefer for probiotics Gutsense(after vomiting or diarrhea or antibiotic use)
Nutrience Raw mix with kiefer, turkey neck for Bourbon, lamb neck for Whiskey, and pumpkin
We feed meal bones 1-3 times a week. This is to help clean their teeth, and when I just need a break because it can take up to an hour for Whiskey to break down a piece of lamb neck. Chewing on a meaty bone takes brain power and it’s something they both enjoy and get tired doing. It’s the perfect rainy day activity.
See this as an opportunity to vary your usual proteins, and size depending on your dog’s chewing ability. Start with smaller bones with a puppy or cats, like chicken carcass, and duck neck. My cat can break down turkey necks but she’s a bit…crazy. Start young and with boney pieces like chicken backs or turkey necks in sections (chop them up). If your dog is just licking the the meat if they are playing with it too much and cut into the meat so there’s more to work with. Whiskey also preferred her meat seared (I’m serious, she was that picky but then she would eat it). Don’t try cartilage until you know your dog is really into bones. Whiskey hates the texture.
If you can feed outdoors that’s ideal but we have to feed indoors so we’ve taught the dogs to eat on a mat. Look around for a butcher than might keep you some cuts for cheap. Avoid weight bearing bones on large animals if your dog is a big chewer (they might crack teeth) and never feed cooked bones, especially small birds because cooked bones are brittle and can break and puncture intestines. If your dog does eat some by mistake, just keep an eye out for any signs of issues.
I just wash my hands after handling raw meat, I use food storage containers to defrost daily
I typically don’t spend too much effort making a fancy meal for my dog but sometimes I’ll have extras. The base for most meals is just the block of meat I buy in bulk. Here’s an example of how much effort I put in myself, although I see many dog parents that make the most Instagram worthy meals for their pups!
Simple meal (50%): 1 bock of meat half defrosted
Regular meal (35%): 1 block of meat, some veg, supplements
Fancy meal (10%): 1 block of meat, quail egg, fish, veg, tablespoon kiefer, supplements, berries from garden
For travel I’ll usually bring a couple blocks of meat for the first couple days and put them in the hotel fridge or an ice box. Pre-mixes are easiest at this point and sometimes the pre-packed packaging really helps in an ice box. If we are going into the backcountry our somewhere without a fridge I’ll start bringing freeze dried raw. There’s many different options on the market and in most cases you do get what you pay for. Try feeding the freeze dried as treats or food topper before going on the trip to make sure your dog will eat it happily first. I’ve found some cheaper brands will show in loose stools, but we’ve had the best luck with Open Farm’s freeze dried raw. Our dogs love it so much I use it as training treats and meal supplements while training Bourbon as a puppy. Also if your dog has also done well with kibble I don’t see harm in switching to kibble for travelling either as long as stools show no change and your dog seems to be doing well. Of course like always, I’m not an expert and just speaking from my own personal experience.
Feed the dog in front of you. Start with an amount. If your dog is skinny, double it until your dog looks good, then reduce the amount until your dog looks healthy. If your dog is too big, halve the amount until your dog looks good, then find the amount in-between that keeps your dog at that weight. Don’t move up and down in small amounts. Watch their poop, bugs? loose? tight? it will tell you lots!
Our costs are around 2-3$/lbs (Canadian dollars) in bulk 40lbs box. 53lbs Whiskey eats about 1.5lbs a day (3% of body weight but very active dog) and 41lbs Bourbon eats about 2lbs (5% of body weight at 8 months). They get extra on days we are doing big hikes, and maybe less if we’re not doing too much (although that’s rare because Bourbon doesn’t really allow that scenario).
-you know exactly what you are feeding, easier to control for allergies -not processed -local sources -control over ingredients (more fat, less fat, more meat, less pumpkin) -fresh food, easily digestible -less gas, less stinky breath, less poop (more food used, less poop wastage) -no preservatives -no fillers needed to make kibble -clean teeth (bones and no fillers/carbs) -less “doggie” odour -less shedding, softer shiner coat -more energy, better immune system
Downsides to feeding raw
-tends to be more expensive -gross compared to kibble -need to have organization and defrost, etc -more washing, more hassle -limited usage (ie compared to kibble best before date) -harder to source -need travelling options -can worry if old/young/immune compromised -need freezer space
If there’s young children or very old family members that may be immune compromised, keep surfaces clean and don’t use the same bowl for humans and dogs. Use the same precautious handing any kind of meat as with the dog food. Avoid kisses right after eating. Don’t keep food too long defrosted, we’ve rarely had this issue, but I’ve refrozen the food (sometimes even for an hour or two) if I think we might be going on a camping trip. Remember humans are more at risk than dogs to things like e-coli, dogs eat loads of unsavory things and don’t get sick and their stomachs are better adjusted to eating raw meat than ours are.
This really depends on the dog that is transitioning and can be easy or hard. With Whiskey it took months going from kibble to cooked to raw. Kibble to cooked food is really easy, and from cooked to raw, it took a longer time. I was new to raw feeding and was trying many sources and things. I also didn’t know that half frozen is ideal for texture! Whiskey is so picky with her food and since she was the only dog eating, there was no sense of competition (she ate better when we petsitted another dog).
Bourbon just switched outright and never looked back. Some dogs are able to eat one meal kibble, one meal raw without issues, others cannot. Slow cooked food is the easiest to digest so use that for transitioning if you have a sensitive tummy. Start with a raw meal after 12-24 hours of a kibble one, start with a smaller amount, maybe with some pumpkin. If your dog doesn’t like half-frozen, try a room temperature meal but make sure you don’t leave the food out very long.
Moo’s food is at the bottom. She gets the same raw and a chicken heart (for taurine)
If your dog gets sick or has stomach issues after switching, watch their poop. As soon as Whiskey or Bourbon gets diarrhea or vomits more than once, I switch straight to slow cooked turkey, white rice, and pumpkin (or carrots). I also use Gutsensefrom Dr Dobias (probiotics specifically for dogs). I used to use another brand but once I looked up the ingredients I was really disgusted and found Gutsense. I keep feeding until the poop looks good for a couple days, then slowly transition back to raw. I basically just throw everything into a slowcooker and make a massive amount of congee (Chinese rice soup). Giardia is pretty prevalent where I live and after I learned to do this we haven’t had to go to the vet over any stomach issues since they clear up themselves.
Just a little note that I’m not a trainer, a professional in any way, this just just my opinion.
Puppy Whiskey in her crate
Everything I read about crate training 7 years ago told me to start crate training right away, from the day we brought out puppy home. Boy, I wish I had waited because it was easily the worst part of Whiskey’s puppyhood and we weren’t at our best when sleep deprived. With our new puppy Bourbon 6 years later, I couldn’t believe how easily we transitioned. The key was waiting.
Whiskey- by the book
We crate trained Whiskey from the first day we got her. It was in all the books, all the advice I could find and since we were in an apartment and both worked full time, I was anxious to make sure she was crate trained while we were both at work (for her own safety as well as our home). The first night that I popped her in the crate, was the first day we brought her home, away from her littermates, over a long flight from Quebec into this strange new place.
Whiskey cried and cried. She hated it. We stuck to the training plan, took her in and out of her crate 3 times a night when she cried, not sleeping for the first month. We had throw on close, run down to the main floor of our apartment (we lived on the second floor) holding her at 3am, with a leash and treats, to wait for her to potty, then back up into her crate, and back in bed. It was torturous and was hands down the worst part of puppyhood for us.
Crate training Whiskey was such a pain
Because of my research, I had thought to make sure Whiskey’s crate was den-sized. Not too big or she might pee in a corner is what the research showed. My poor girl was so miserable. We played crate games, we let her sleep during the day in her crate, we covered it up with blankets and played calming music. We put all her toys in there and fed her inside (she didn’t like to eat so it wasn’t’ helpful). I put in warmed toys, I slept outside her crate singing to her with my fingers through the bars.
Eventually after what seemed like forever (probably a couple of months) Whiskey would sleep through the night and we developed a routine. We also switched to the largest crate we could find and she was SO much happier. Whiskey NEVER went into her crate voluntarily during the day (and still to this day doesn’t). We left her in her crate when we went to work in the mornings and had a dog walker come take her out mid day. By 6 months of age she was left in the bedroom (only one accident ever) and a couple months later she had the run of the house during the day (Whiskey’s never ruined anything).
Whiskey totally preferred the bed (and still does)
Our experience with crating was so opposite others we had talked to, as well as my readings. Whiskey didn’t like a den, she liked the couch or bed. She was a confident dog and she’s never felt the need to “hide” from scary sounds or things and although we finally agreed on her crate as her bed to sleep in at night, she would still crawl in our bed if we forgot to lock the door (or if we travelled).
Bourbon- second time’s a charm!
Bourbon was allowed on the bed
When I got Bourbon, I was alone and so exhausted from travelling I just didn’t have the energy to deal with a screaming puppy all night long. I had a large crate with me in the room that I filled with blankets and toys, but let Bourbon crawl into bed around my neck and fall asleep.
Having seen Bourbon with her littermates in a warm puppy pile, and having just experienced her screaming her little brains out on the plane in a tiny carrier, I just couldn’t imagine she would be ok sleeping in another cold crate. Surprising (to me) Bourbon slept in bed with me for 7 HOURS the first night. At 8 weeks old! And when she woke up, she woke slowly and because I could feel her waking, I could slowly wake myself up. I didn’t have to jump up and throw on clothes in a rush. I had an extra 3 mins to become conscious, and cradle Bourbon, carrying her outside for a pee. It was AMAZING.
For the next month I slept with Bourbon. She was introduced to the small plastic crate for nap times during the day and accepted about an hour inside. Every evening I would put her into her crate with the door open, and she would crawl into bed with me (we were quarantining for the first 2 weeks and roadtripping for a week more) and she would slowly wake me when she need to pee. On average Bourbon would be able to hold it 6-7 hours at a time.
When we finally transitioned to a larger plastic crate a full month later, we put the entire gigantic crate in the bed between us (sorry no pictures but it was like this. Bourbon predictably screamed for the first 2 days (about 2 hours each) and then fell asleep. On the 3rd day it was about 20mins so crying, and on the 4th day maybe just 5. After that, we put the crate on the floor, and then after 3 months finally she was moved to her permanent crate. We had a regression of about an hour less of sleep when first moving her to the crate (because the screaming and crying and anxiety took so much out of her) so she would average 5-6 hours at a time compared to 6-7 in bed.
Because Bourbon loved sleeping in her Snoozer cave bed, we put one inside her permanent crate.
Vizslas have a habit of moving and taking up the entire bed so my husband has vetoed dogs sleeping in beds a long while ago. Bourbon’s also got a knack for face and throat punching but we still let her in to cuddle at night before bed, and in the morning before we wake.
In Summary
I really suggest sleeping with your puppy for the first week or two before transitioning to a crate. This is assuming your breeder hasn’t had the puppies already sleeping in separate crates (crate training) before you get them. I believe because they’re less anxious they can hold their bladder longer, giving everyone more sleep (and sanity) and it’ll be a more gentle wake up call instead of a scream and rush out. It’s less traumatizing moving from warm puppy piles and everything they’ve known.
Then if possible, sleep with the crate in bed and slowly move the crate to the location you prefer. It’s best if the crate is in your room, facing you so your pup can see you and you have quick and easy access and can hear them if they need to wake up at night to go. This might not be possible for everyone, but I found the whole experience (probably the one I was dreading the most) really lovely and got to bond with Bourbon in a way I really wish I could have had with Whiskey.
The girls in their homemade crate that Thierry put together.
Crate tips
Also, there’s quite a bit of advice to size your crate to your dog and only put an old towel there, but I’ve found both my girls like large spacious crates (the plastic ones are much preferred to the wired ones) with soft beds. There be concern that they’ll rip up the beds, or soil a larger crate but I just never experienced this and I stayed in the room while crate training. Bourbon had to be shown what to chew on, and given chews/toys but she’s never had the chance to tear into a bed. The longest we have crated her is 2 hours at a time currently.
I also monitor their crate times really closely especially the first weeks (and start with short stints) and only put them in after activity and when you think they should be tired (or bedtime). I do find playing the same soft music helps, and covering the crate with a blanket so they cannot see also helps. Lastly, pay attention to your puppy and see what they gravitate to, what makes them comfortable at home. For Bourbon it was the cavebed so we put that in her crate and she’s happier to sleep there at night.
Links
Puppy crate (borrow or find a used one for the first month)
Full sized crate (4 months and older, although Whiskey prefers 1 size up)
Vancouver’s North Shore has been our go-to for short and long walks ever since we got Whiskey. As the years have gone by, it’s gotten busier and sharing the trail with other hikers, runners, dogs, bikers, and bears becomes a little more difficult.
Here’s a mix of Instagrammable dog friendly hikes mixed with peaceful ones typically only visited by locals. If you have dogs, I would suggest to go very early, go late, go on weekdays, and rainy days, especially for busy trails. Generally, I would avoid busy trails on sunny weekends with dogs to respect other trail users. Bike trails tend to be less busy but are shared with bikers so keep an ear open for wheels coming down! Know how to deal with bears, and keep a wide berth and respect for all wildlife, as it’s their home we are entering and don’t forget the cougars and coyotes too!
Although the 14km Norvan Falls is relatively flat, lots of people do get lost and need rescue on this trail. It leads to many tougher backcountry hikes and some people are still missing.
Finally, trails do close over the winters and always remember the 10 essentials. If you get lost, call 911 for help as soon as you can, and if you are out of reception, take a satellite device such as an Inreach Mini. I’m linking to a variety of sources, so please check them online before you go out!
*** busy ** well used * less busy 🌊waterfall 🌲 forest 👀views 💦lake/river/ocean
Lighthouse Park has wide easy access trails and wilder ones to explore
Flat/Easy
Lighthouse Park ***🌲💦👀- One of my favorite places to go with friends with kids, or someone that’s not able to hike anything strenuous. There’s lots of variety in terrain and views, as well as bathrooms and is very dog friendly.
Whytecliff Park ***👀💦- Go when low tide, read the tide charts and don’t get stuck on the island! More of a fun walk then a hike with beautiful views of Vancouver, to Vancouver island. We’ve even seen a gray whale here!
Inter River Park ***🌲💦- Connects to the Lynn Valley system and up to Lynn Headwaters, great for trail running, and has a couple beautiful watering holes to swim in. Continue up all the way to Lynn Headwaters for a very long hike or jog.
Deep Cove Park and Wickenden Park ***🌲👀💦- A lovely flat and easy place to walk your dog. The Deep Cove community is also lovely to discover but very busy for parking on the weekends.
Spirit Trail * -City Trail that runs 6.5km on the North Shore’s waterfront. Do a portion and see the city in a different way. I especially like the less busy West portion that becomes more green.
Mosquito Creek Park **🌲💦- 4.2km of a meandering path along a salmon habitat.
Dog Mountain in the snow is a wonderlandCypress Falls is very dog friendlyWhyte Lake is a fairytale trail with lots of moss
Moderate/Easy
Whyte Lake **🌲💦- One of my favorite trails on a rainy day. There’s something special about this one, with really nice sections and big cedars and firs. There’s a walkway around a small section of the lake that’s very beautiful too.
Old Buck Trail/Seymour Bike trails *🌲- There’s a load of bike trails on lower Seymour that are great to wander around with your pup, just keep your ears open for bikes
Fromme Bike Trails *🌲- Similar to the Seymour trails there’s loads of bike trails to walk or run when it’s rainy or you just want a change of scenery. Keep your dogs off the bike trail, or close to you so you can quickly jump out of the path if you hear bikes coming down. There’s lots of amazing sections through the forest. Watch out for bears!
Bowen Lookout **👀- short hike with a wonderful sunset view, keep going to St Marks but only if safe in winter
Dog Mountain ***🌲👀- Amazing for sunrise, I only go on weekdays or it’s too busy. During the winter the road is closed so check opening times. Great views of the city and a lovely walk.
Quarry Rock ***🌲👀💦- There are many ways to get to this famous rock, look at maps, the main path goes through the end of the Baden Powell trail in Deep Cove with a lovely walk through a beautiful forest. Can be so busy on weekends they are trying to limit the amount of people. Don’t forest to pick up a doughnut at Honey’s afterwards!
Cypress Falls Park **🌲🌊- A friendly neighborhood park that leads to some nice falls. The falls are viewed from above and at a distance but it’s still lovely. Don’t go too close to the cliffs as it’s unstable. The trails around are also beautiful.
St Mary’s Trail *🌲- Connects to Baden Powell and other bike trails, I normally start on St. Mary’s Ave and connect to the Grouse Mountain Highway on one trail or another and make a loop back.
Goldie Lake Loop *🌲💦 -ski hill in winter, quiet in summer. Sometimes I just bring some lunch to eat on the slopes and do a little walk.
Mackay Creek *🌲💦 – Another loop that ties into the Baden Powell. There’s loads of these you can make up and do depending on the time and workout you want. Great for a quieter option. This one has the F-86 Jet Crash Memorial
Hollyburn is a quick hike with views of the LionsBrothers Creek goes through a beautiful forestThe view up at Eagle Bluffs in the winter
Moderate
Seymour Peak***🌲👀 my favorite! With 3 pumps or peaks, each with amazing views, there’s so much to love about this varied hike. I would stick to first pump while there’s snow on the trail and avoid the full peak until summer as there’s avalanche risk and exposure between 2nd and 3rd. Very busy and I run into black bears frequently here.
Eagle Bluffs ***🌲👀 – The popular route starts you at Cypress Mountain through Black Mountain, the less popular starts you at Horseshoe Bay. Either route has incline (the Baden Powell more so) but I would avoid the BP route in the winter due to avalanche issues.
Norvan Falls **🌲🌊- A lovely 14km trail run to a beautiful waterfall. Take care on this route and make sure you’re very familiar or you have lots of daylight left as many people need rescue getting lost here. Trails starting off Norvan Falls are for advanced hikers only so please don’t attempt unless you’re fully prepared.
Baden Powell *🌲💦- 45.5kms of trail connecting Horseshoe bay to Deep Cove. Choose a section or do it all! If you’re attempting it all, please push this trail to the “Difficult” section! For most sections, I would say it’s moderate.
Brother’s Creek **🌲🌊💦- nice loop options in a beautiful forest with some gigantic trees, bridge was taken out but still possible to cross creek if adventurous. Try sidetrips to other lakes like Blue Gentian and Lost Lake if you want to extend.
Hollyburn Mountain **🌲👀-busier in winter, less in summer, steep inclines with an amazing view.
Big cedar and Kennedy falls *🌲🌊- People get lost here, I’m not really sure why but make sure you have a map you can read and are comfortable in the wilderness because it can get wild fast. The parking is mainly for bikers and can get busy in the summer.
Mt Fromme *🌲👀- An easy to access peak and relatively rarely hiked mountain. The base starts at the bike parking and you can have lots of bikers heading up on the wide FSR. Criss-crossed by loads of bike trails, just keep an eye on your map to not get lost!
Twin Falls-Lynn Valley-Suspension Bridge ***🌲🌊💦- busy but lovely trail that goes through two bridges along a river and some super gorgeous forest. Avoid the crowds on weekdays and the rainy season. The cliffs can be very dangerous and the river can sweep an unsuspecting pup quickly down so keep away from any edges or fast moving water.
Elsay Lake trail is a long downhill climb to a wild lakeCrown Mountain is a huge hike through Hanes
Difficult
Most of these trails are VERY technical and NOT ok for most dogs. Leashing while scrambling can be extremely dangerous and I do not recommend you bring any dogs that are not fully in control. Please do not attempt these trails alone and without your 10 essentials and letting someone know your eta. Start early and bring water for your dog!
Elsay Lake *🌲👀💦- A rare hike that goes down, not up! The trail is easy to lose if the visibility isn’t far and goes by many rock falls that can be avalanche zones in snow. It’s harder than it looks on the map. Very few tenting spots, please do not use the Emergency shelter unless it’s an emergency.
Coliseum *🌲🌊👀- Start this one earlier than you think, especially if you’re parking at the Lynn Headwaters that locks for the evening. Very muddy for most of the year, and possible to continue further if you’re a crazy trail runner to Mount Burwell.
Crown via Hanes **🌲🌊👀- Only accessible through Lynn Valley, heading up through Hanes Valley and back down. This makes for a VERY full day. Dogs are no longer welcome on the BCMC but other trails like Fromme can make this a loop. High elevation gain, long distance, and a route notorious for needing rescues. The last section is technical and a scramble. If you’re parking at Lynn Headwaters, be aware of closing times or you may initiate a rescue if you’re not back at your car by the time they close the gates. Hanes is very dangerous if there’s low visibility and many people get lost here. There’s very little sources of water along the route past Norvan, and this is a no-go zone during avalanche season. Those without dogs can do a much shorter hike from Grouse Gondola (dogs not allowed on Grouse, BCMC)
South Needle *🌲👀- The trail can be busy until Lynn Peak, then empties out and gets more strenuous. A less visited peak that’s easy to access for lovely views. Please note that you cannot access with dogs on the Seymour side (that I know of).
Howe Sound Crest Trail ***🌲👀- One of the best hikes (or multiday hikes) you can do in the region. This hike is normally done over several days and is a hike-through so you need to have a plan to get back to your car. It’s on rugged terrain and is much harder than you might expect if you just look at the distance and gain. The trail does go through some watershed areas so please note where you’re allowed to camp. The rocks and terrain can be really rough for dogs (I’ve seen a dog tear through all 4 pads attempting this one) so ensure you’ve got all your safety gear. There are spots that are very exposed and steep, making this a no-go for most during wet or snow conditions. You can always do a section of the trail as a day-hike. There are loads of side peaks that you can do to add on but keep an eye on your water. There are not too many watering holes especially during the top of summer.
From Mt Unnecessary looking at the Lions on the Howe Sound Crest Trail
Do you love getting out and adventuring with your dog but you just wish there was that one piece of gear to make it all easier? Perhaps your dog is slightly injured, has allergies, or keeps building up ice on their boots? Here’s a list of specialized dog gear that you might find useful!
Musher’s Secret: Use paw wax in place of winter booties. Originally designed for sledding dogs, this wax can help prevent snowballing, salt, ice build-up, hot sand and pavement. I do find the wax wears off during a walk or hike so you’ll need several applications over the day but it’s a great option to booties.
Bodhi wearing the downpour suit with integrated bug repellant
Sun and Bug Blocker Hurtta: A bodysuit with UPF 40 and bug repellent built in! Great if your dog loves to camp but is severely allergic to mosquitoes, ticks or horseflies. Or perhaps your dog has recent surgery and needs to stay out of the sun! There are also vests and a Downpour suit that has permethrin imbedded in it should you need a warmer or other option.
Whiskey in her Whyld River sleeping bag
Whyld River Sleeping Bag: A sleeping bag designed to separate, clip in, or permanently toggle each section for maximum flexibility. The snaps will pop off if your dog wants out, but if you want to keep it closed even if your dog moves, use the toggles. We helped design this bag and love and use it! Discount code: WHISKEY10
Neopaws Boots with loads of sizes made of neoprene
Neopaws Orthopedic Boots: orthopedic winter boots with support that are made out of Neoprene, good even for water use! You can even buy insoles to adjust the height of each boot so you can take your older pup out for walks without pain.
Neopaws Gaiters: Dog gaiters/boot covers to prevent snow/ice buildup on dog boots.
Dog gaiters with boots attached
Backcountry Paws Gaiters: Dog gaiters with boots attached. We love these and use them all the time under a jacket because there’s no more chances of losing a boot! A little complicated to put on but well worth not having to worry about and search for a lost bootie.
Ruffwear Doubleback Harness: a Belay specialized harness for climbing and repelling. This full body dog lifting harness is for crag dogs that love to follow their owners everywhere. It’s the only harness I’ve seen that has the back leg loops and specifically made for climbing.
Ear Pro: Dog hearing ear protection Designed for working military dogs, these are great for noise sensitive pups, or dogs living in and working in loud environments to help prevent hearing loss.
Rex Specs googles
Rex Specs: Dog eye protection We love these goggles to protect eyes from high winds (on a motorcycle), extreme cold, hunting in bush, eye injuries, sun glare, and other medical needs. With 5 sizes the goggles cover most sizes and look awesome.
No Flap Ear Wrap: Dog ear injury protection Dog ear injuries take forever to heal and can bloody your walls quickly. Keep your dog’s ear protected and dry with this Ear Wrap.
