When Oru kayaks first came out they were gamechangers. At only 30lbs you could fold them up and walk or hike them into previously unkayak-able places. They were easier to store in apartments and possible to transport in cars without a rack. And…they are beautiful! I’ve owned my Beach kayak for over 2 years and have really tested its limits. Recently we added the Bay kayak which is a quicker boat, a bit better for all those ocean trips as well snappy maneuvering for photography.
The most peaceful morning
Oru Basics
Beach vs Bay models
Adding Dogs
Comparing Oru to other options on the market
How to Introduce Dogs to a Kayak
Accessories
Testing the Beach Oru
Pros and Cons
The Oru Basics
There are now 5 different models from their tiny Inlet 20lb model easily brought on a bus, to a tandem model capable of carrying a 500lb load. The kayaks are all origami-style foldable made out of a corrugated plastic rated for 20,000 folds and tough enough to easily survive rocks to dog nails. Reportedly smaller things like the neoprene caps, buckles, and rods will wear down before the polypropylene has issues and I feel really confident on the toughness of these boats. They’re made in the USA and range from $899-$2199 and can be used from rugged expeditions to your neighbourhood lake.
Beach Oru Kayak Assembly
I own two versions, the original, the Bay, and the most popular, the Beach. Both are around 28lbs, something I can easily carry with their backpacks (additional accessory) on a flat walk. I’ll concentrate on these two models and my thoughts and experience with them here.
The Bay Kayak
Beach vs Bay Oru
The Bay is 28lbs vs 26lbs for the Beach, not really a significant difference, however keep in mind the Bay is also $300USD more. Packed up they’re around the same size. Construction of the Beach is quicker, the website says 5 vs 10mins which I find to be pretty accurate if you’re not very familiar with the boat.
Whiskey in the Beach and Bourbon in the Bay Oru KayaksThierry putting the Bay Kayak together
I’ve got the Beach down to about 3 mins if I don’t have a dog on my back but either way, it’s quick and easy once you practice a couple times. The hardest part of putting the Beach together is the tension rod (tip: put the boat on it’s side) and I do find it a bit more difficult to line up the zipper channels on the Bay. As the boat is used over several trips, the folds become less stiff and it actually does get easier to put the boat together. Disassembly is much more intuitive and quicker (about half the time of set-up). I’d really suggest that you dry the boat and break down away from sand to keep your car clean!
Whiskey showing how much space there is in the Beach OruBourbon and I are sharing the Bay Oru
In the water, the Beach is much more wider and open. This means it’s more stable, holds more things and dogs easily accessible, and wetter. In contrast the Bay is much tighter to get in and out, faster on the water, quicker to turn and more nimble, and much better in waves or wind with a dryer experience. Make sure you put together and take apart you kayak at home before you head to the beach. The videos online are very helpful and it can seem complex and the folds very stiff so it was really helpful to at least try once at home with no pressure.
What About Adding Dogs into the Equation?
For dog use, the Bay would not be able to fit a dog with a larger 6 foot person. I was able to fit a puppy Bourbon with me in the Bay so a small dog would be fine with a smaller person, but I would not suggest the Bay as the most dog friendly option. On the other hand, the Beach Oru model can fit about 2 Vizslas and maybe 2 smaller dogs in total with a smaller person (300lbs max) but make sure everyone’s friends! With two Vizslas (50lbs each) I can still fit more as well as my camera and a bag.
Comparing Oru with other options on the market
These boats are called sit-in kayaks vs sit-on kayaks. There is usually only the sit-on versions that can you easily load up dogs with enough space so the Beach Kayak is amazing for staying relatively dry and staying a bit more out of the elements than a sit-on kayak (almost like a paddleboard). I believe the two kayaks are lighter than any blow up options I’m aware of, and you don’t need to inflate them making for less packing and unpacking trouble. I find blow up options also have much less space for gear and dogs, and the sit-on kayaks I just don’t feel safe except on very calm water and there’s nowhere to protect my camera if the wind picks up. The sit-in kayaks also encourage dogs to stay “inside” the boat vs dangling a body part out and slipping off and on. In short, with all the boats I’ve seen around, I’ve not seen a better dog option for kayaks.
The top section is strong enough for a dog to stand on
When introducing your dog to the kayak, try it on land first! First, and very importantly, make sure your dog is exercised and tired. Do whatever it takes to make sure your dog is calm, perhaps wait a couple days if this is the first time he’s at the beach and he’s just going crazy. If you can find a sandy area just sit yourself and your pup in the kayak and see how they do. Ask them to load up, ideally with a command they already understand. Whiskey understands “wait” and “up up” and “stay”. The wait is necessary as she now understands boats are her taxis and she will jump on before I’m ready.
Know what you dog needs and responds to and bring anything that might help. Treats and a chew are really helpful, and my own dogs LOVE blankets so I bring 3! Get into the kayak somewhere calm (edge of the beach or a dock) and ask a friend to hold the boat while you dog loads up. Keep it calm and controlled, ask your dog to load and sit and stay. Reward with treats and get yourself comfortable before you ask your dog to lie down. At this point present a chew if necessary and slowly push off.
Treat periodically (more at first and then space it out longed and longer) or let your dog lie down with a chew and just float around paddling gently. Keep the first sessions short and sweet and keep your mood calm (even when rewarding your dog, keep everything calm). Slowly increase your paddling time and see what you can do to make your own dog more comfortable. Try one dog at a time before added multiple!
Accessories
The Oru Kayaks fold up into a box and can be carried with a strap that it comes with. You can also purchase an additional backpack that makes travel much easier (I highly suggest this!). It helps keep sand from your car, and is so much easier to carry around on your back. You can also put the paddle and life jacket and extras in the pockets and walk a very long distance with the kayak. As I mentioned earlier, a foam or extra seat padding makes the kayak much more comfortable. You can use any paddles but I do suggest one that breaks down into 4 sections if you are carrying and storing your kayak in small locations (like a car).
My kayak on my back with the lifejacket and paddles in the attachments
The seat pads are very thin so I would highly suggest a bum pad (like the seat pads for camping or any waterproof foam). For both models, if you are in open water with waves a dry bag is really helpful. If you’re out at night, it’s also really fun to add lights inside the boat (integrate them while you’re building them).
Putting the Beach to the test
So the Beach kayak is suggested calm water, for easy trips, and casual day fun. Well, I took it out in waves (I got pretty wet!) and it was super stable and easy to handle, but not as quick to turn as the Bay. I also took it out on an overnight trip and found it was easy to load on bags and luggage (there’s space behind as well as in front of the seat and very easy to access) and it was pretty decent at tracking straight and dealing with wind and tides. It’s not a fast boat (the Bay is much faster and easy to maneuver on these kinds of trips) but it’s easier to load up than the Bay.
Whiskey swimming with Kaitlyn on an alpine lake
I’ve also landed and taken off from very rocky beaches and beaches covered in barnacles and the hull has been fine (scratched like any plastic but fine). I’ve also found my own limits to carrying up the kayak on a very rugged trail up in the alpine wilderness. Because there was no way to carry both my overnight pack and my kayak, I had to make 3 trips per every one (instead of going from car to site, I had to go from car to site with my pack, then back to car, then back to site with my kayak). The kayak is very bulky and not easy on single track trails that are super steep. It’s also hard to balance jumping from log to log and hard to deal with slippery trails. In short, stick to easy trails that are 1m wide unless you love to struggle!
Hiking this boat up to this alpine location was not easy
Last, this kayak looks different. It’s beautiful and everyone loves watching it put together and used. You can light it up at night and it’s the most lovely thing.
Pros: Fits in small places, easy to pack up and down, easy for beginners, stable, fits so many dogs, accepts a heavy load, strong, good looks, lighter than blow up kayaks, tracks well, one year warranty, good resale value, beautiful
Downsides: Price, Rudderless, need to learn how to set up at first, Wet deck, Seat needs extra cushion, seat back can come off sometimes.
Please don’t forget to use our discount and support us! WHISKEY with any Oru purchase
Do you struggle with recalling your dog reliably when they’re off leash in a new area full of smells, people, dogs, and noises? Here’s a guide to what I found was helpful with my girls!
Disclaimer First off, here’s a reminder that I AM NOT A PROFFESIONAL TRAINER, but here’s what I do with my Vizslas in order for us to have them off leash in our area. I hope some of this would be helpful, but most importantly start early, be consistent about practicing, and be patient (with yourself and your dog). Find a support network and ask for help!
With both Bourbon and Whiskey we let them off leash from day one in safer low-distraction areas (they were 8 weeks old). In both cases we didn’t have access to a fenced yard or fenced area but they were still allowed to roam free and recalled as soon as they went about 6 feet away with lots of yummy treats, praise and attention. The main dangers and distractions to avoid were people, cars, dogs, and wildlife.
I found that when they were very young they didn’t “see” as far away as we did and so it was much easier to recall and leash up before a person or dog walked close enough to be a problem. Recalling and learning their names took about a week or so, so in the beginning high pitched sounds like “beep bep beep bep” to recall, along with their names and a continuous “YES!!” that got more excitable as they ran towards you worked well. Yes, you will sound like a crazy person but the more you are willing to be insane and do anything to get your puppy’s attention, the more successful you’ll be. Always follow up with yummy treats to hold their attention once they are close! Start offering the treats but then quickly move to only offering treats once you have eye contact. Ideally wait for eye contact before you even touch or move your hand towards the rewards.
Your goal with recall is that you must make yourself more interesting than everything else in the environment. Pair up the name+treat+fun as quickly as you can and practice in harder environments. You can be more patient with interesting distractions but if your puppy is totally ignoring you, grab your pup quickly instead of calling and calling, and if possible drop the leash and practice the recall when the distraction is a bit further away and you are closer to your pup. See every distraction as an opportunity to practice recall, you only need to learn what is within the edge of success and work within that. The more success you can get, even if they are easy successes the more confidence and predictability you’ll have. Recall 5-20 times on every walk, you’ll collect the wins so fast!
When your puppy just starts to turn their head towards you as you call, first acknowledging you, you must build on that attention. Call you YESS! and do what you can to be cooler than whatever the distraction was. Try different things and see what works with your dog. Squeal progressively louder, or higher pitched, run away in a weird zig zag catch-me-if-you-can, drop to the ground, hide behind a tree.
When your pup approaches, don’t just stand there and hand over a treat. Toss the treat one way and run the other so your dog needs to catch you for the next treat. Roll the treat between your legs so they need to find it, hold the treat and lure them around a little bit, dropping bits into their mouth as you go. Make it FUN! Keep your voice happy, keep your attitude light. Would you want to run as fast as you can to someone that’s angry, yanks you, puts you on a leash and screams at your face? You’d probably want to run towards someone that is smiling, giving you $100, telling you how beautiful you look, and that they missed you and would you like a bar of your favorite chocolate?
If you’re prone to scream or be super stressed when recalling in difficult situations (ie you’re scared your dog is going to run into traffic and you cannot control your voice), then train your dog to associate your load scary screaming with urgency but NOT punishment or fear. Finally, even though you’re working on being fun with your dog, you still want to stay in charge and hold a confident demeanor, it can be a little bit of a weird line to walk on while making weird noises and playing hide and seek, but when you praise or command, it needs to be with confidence.
What is the distraction? See if you can figure out what has your dog’s attention and reward them with the same thing but better. If your dog is busy sniffing out something exciting, then recall them and scatter some treats here and there and ask them to use their nose to find it. If your puppy is old enough, teach them to do a sit/stay and then search for treats in a larger area on command. If your dog is distracted by chasing another dog, let them chase you a little bit, put a tree between you and make it hard for them to catch you, when they do, squeal and play and give them a treat. If your dog is distracted by a toy, bring a toy with you and recall straight to a tug or a ball or stick. If your dog is off chasing things that move, recall and throw treats further, make them run back and forth, maybe getting them to catch them in the air. Certain breeds of dogs will have better drive to recall for different things. Puppies tend to take food easier but as they grow up, work on increasing a drive that you can control (a drive to tug, a drive to fetch, a drive to do tricks, a drive to sniff). This will build your value to your dog that you are the only thing in the world that can provide the magical ball and will help not only your recall but your ability to hold their concentration over distractions.
Recall practice looks so different depending on where you live. If you’re in a rural area with loads of forest, but dangerous animals, or if you’re in the city with cars everywhere and only tiny busy parks, you can find a way to practice recall safely. A long line is a super long leash (20+ feet) that you can let your dog drag along (or you can hold it and unravel as needed) and just step on the line if your dog isn’t recalling. You can also use natural and man made barriers that control and slow down your dog. Baseball diamonds in the offseason, islands, mountains, or streams will keep most puppies in line (it really depends on breeds but my dogs will never cross water so I use that frequently as a natural barrier). Learn your dog and predict what their range will be in open land, or crowded forest. You can just do recall in the city with a 6 foot leash, walking around downtown and recalling off discarded food on the ground, other dogs, or interesting events. We used to find geese in the city parks and practice heeling and recall with our regular leash.
See if you can put these distractions in order for your dogs (from least to most distracting) and proactively find these distractions to recall from. Start from the furthest distance you can and work your way up to your dog interacting with the distraction and calling them back (ie mid squirrel stalk). Work on longer durations that you expect their concentration, and adjust depending on their moods, the environment and other factors.
Hide and seek- in a quiet safe area worked really well for us when they were young (not so effective with a teenager!). Vizslas and puppies especially want to be with their human so we would take just Bourbon or Whiskey out for a walk around a forest with big trees but no people. We would then hide as soon as she wandered far enough away and wait for her to notice we were missing. As soon as we could see her looking for us, we would call out and let her find us. It would become a game for her to make sure we were always close so we couldn’t go hide on her. We would also give her lots of treats and love when she did find us! You can also play this game with two people, one hiding, and when ready, ask your puppy to “find mommy”. Not only will your dog learn your “name”, but they’ll be learning to sniff you out to receive a big welcome, treat and love.
If you are going for a walk off leash and your dog or puppy checks in with you, always give praise and treats.
Fear of On-leashing-
Practice holding onto your dog’s collar and leashing and unleashing with treats. Some dogs understand that a recall means they must lose their freedom and go on leash and will play keep-away. Try walking on and off leash periodically and leash up calmly with a treat before and after touching or tugging the collar. It’s better if your dog does not shy away from you quickly grabbing and tugging on their collar incase of emergency so practice this without warning and give praises and treats . Always notice if your dog is tense or anxious and work within their boundaries. I like to tell my girls “leash up” so they know what’s happening and expect them to stand and wait for me to struggle for 30seconds.
If possible, find out the gamut of animals you may encounter and see if you can figure out which ones capture your dog’s attention the most to least. Find and work with the animal that is least interesting (ie crows are less interesting than pigeons, than ducks, than grouse). Practice calm sits, paw, lie downs around a crow from a distance.
Find out what is the closest distance you can practice training your dog and keep their attention with the animal around. It’s ok for them to notice the animal, just not run towards it. You want to practice a sit/stay/down before you practice recall. Recall with a long line or leash drag once you gain your own confidence. Slowly work your way closer to the animal, then work on a harder animal. Sometimes you may just need to have your dog beside you on leash, feeding them treats for half an hour until they are ready to train. Be patient, it’s worth it! Repeat daily and you’ll see improvement quickly!
Train “leave it” and increase self control which will help with everything involving recall, especially wild animals. Start “leave it” with low value treats or food, and slowly increase the duration, the food value, and the distance you are from your dog and treat. Depending on your dog and your goals, you can either release your dog to eat the food/meal/treat or you can provide a higher value reward and take away the treat. This can be practiced with leaving food found on the ground in a city, a pigeon on the sidewalk, or even good smelling coffee cup.
I use a variety of treats and I pay attention to which ones my dog values more. I use lower value treats for easier recalls, and give them a handful if they do something amazing. When I’m first introducing something new I use only high value treats. I always have a mix so my pup doesn’t get bored and so that I can reach in and try something different if needed. Because my training can use up a bag of treats quickly I like to use freeze dried raw food as a meal replacement. Sometimes people use kibble but I really think these are more highly valued (it only takes a quick test to find out!).
Notice what your dog likes as praise, not what you think your dog “should” like. Some dogs don’t like to be petted on their heads, or hugged. Vizslas tend to love attention and vocal praise as well as butt scratches but your dog might love a chin scratch and hate eye contact. Over time, if you can train your dog to like something more than treats (like a tug toy or a ball) you’ll have an easier time of training and a much cheaper time too! (also see the “Be Strategic” section.
Working dogs tend to have a drive for some type of “work”, you’ll just need to try different things along with treats and praises to see what may stick. Whiskey LOVES sticks and balls even more than treats as she loves to “work” and fetch is her work. The more options you have, the better when recalling. It’s likely your dog will not want to recall from chasing a goose unless she thinks you may have something even better for her like a squeaky bouncy ball that she can play with over and over. Lastly, sometimes “COME!” may not have been trained enough and have enough of a reward than another command like “FETCH” or “SIT”, if that’s the case, you can either recall with whatever command is working, and then work your recall command to be stronger, or include another command with your recall (ie sometimes it will help if I recall Whiskey and go immediately into a trick or two to get her mind fully off the distraction and onto me so my recall is stronger if I use a COME paired with a STUMP or PAW).
Once inawhile, pack something AMAZING like an entire beef patty or bacon, or roasted chicken in an airtight container and pull it out for a really good recall. This gets your dog just hoping to hit jackpot and addicted to the recall. You can also teach an emergency recall to a different command on top of your regular recall and train for extremely snappy returns that are always paired with jackpots.
Some dogs can run because they see or hear something frightening and they are essentially deaf to your voice at this point. It’s so important that you socialize your dog to all sorts of sounds, animals, people, and events all with positive reinforcements. Introduce new things well within your dog’s anxiety limits and be conservative with their reactions. If it doesn’t feel right, or you feel you are pushing it, then just take it slower. Some dogs will be totally fine with a busy city center, noises, cars backfiring, and motorcycles right next to them, but some other dogs may need a very very slow introduction to a bus beep. All the work you do when they are young will pay off, you just may not see it, because it won’t become a problem.
There are lots of dogs that may become deaf/blind to your calls when they start chasing prey and there may be very little you can do once your dog starts the chase. Start as early as you can to work on recall but there may be limits to recall from voice with certain dogs. There are many options and tools out there but please do research and train with a professional. If you can recognize the signals before your dog does run and can interrupt the sequence, that’s always great, but it may not be reasonable to expect perfect recall, ever with just your voice.
Lastly, having a puppy or dog that has many outlets for exercise, chase, play, and mental simulation will reduce their need and drive to run off. Changing up your park, meeting other dogs for playtime, and training sessions that mentally tire out your dog will reduce the amount of times they may not want to recall.
Recall like any training is not easy, nor is it a linear progression. There might be setbacks, and breakthroughs and ruts in the road. If you start when your dog is a puppy and continually reinforce throughout their lifetime, you’ll probably have an easier time than starting later and doing a big 6 months and then relaxing.
So much depends on the dog’s personality and breed. Herding dogs stay closer to the herd (you!), whereas hunting dogs are bred to find a scent and chase it for as long as it takes. Sled dogs are bred to survive and be independent, and protection dogs will naturally stay close. Unneutered males and females in heat will range, and teenager dogs 7months-1 year or so will challenge your status and commands. Keep all this in mind and remember that even if your dog is perfectly well trained, you will need to reinforce recall over their lifetimes and keep practicing what works for both of you.
There are loads of resources online for recall, specific issues, and for so many things I just touched upon. Work with a trainer, or read, listen, and watch what you can to learn. Here are a couple quick resources I threw together. Most of my learning comes from talking to friends, trainers, watching videos I don’t keep track of, and loads of trial and error. Don’t just follow one trainer or blog, read lots and make up your own mind what makes sense to you and your dog.
Bourbon: what to expect from a high energy Vizsla puppy
Here’s a diary of our first 5 months with Bourbon at home. It covers the flight home to our current situation. I’ve mentioned training, eating, chewing, hikes, dogs, distances, crates, and everything in-between.
Vaccinations: Bourbon was vaccinated before we got her, as well as at 10 weeks, and tittered at 16 weeks (she showed a high level of antibodies so no more vaccinations needed). Our area has no outbreak of Parvo (the biggest one to watch out for before letting your puppy on trails), and we kept to safe areas until her 10 week vaccination. We rarely visit dog parks and wouldn't suggest any until older.
Disclaimer: Other sources may have very different opinions on what's an appropriate time and length of walk for a dog of a certain age. The main takeaway is to avoid strain/impact on growing bones like jumping on hard surfaces, long down-climbs, sustained running/biking, really anything much on concrete, and extended distances. Every breed is very different (would you suggest the same exercise routine for a bulldog as for a Vizsla?) but I'm no expert.
I had wanted to avoid having to fly alone with Bourbon but because of Covid regulations, driving was not possible. Instead of a 6 hour drive, I had to complete a 14 hour door-to-door adventure with a brand new 8 week old puppy. We had 2 flights (Air Alaska), 2 car rides, Immigration, several security checks and lots of misadventures. The time waiting for flights in the airport was the hardest because I was alone (try going to the bathroom with your carry-on roller bag and a Vizsla puppy, with a mask in a busy airport). There was so much activity and noise that treats and chews weren’t really working as a distraction so I found running back and forth in a little section was the busiest I could keep Bourbon. We stayed away from any carpet in case she had to pee, and I laid out the puppy pee pads every chance I had.
I thought to board last so I don’t have to wait in a packed plane in line with a screaming dog and had the least possible amount of time in the airplane. I had chosen a seat at the back of the plane so we had some space and a quick walk to the bathroom (the puppy is supposed to stay in the bag the entire time but with Whiskey we found in order to let her pee, we would take her to the toilet, lay down a pee pad and she would go). Unfortunately the air hostess that reads out the take off instructions was located at the back right next to us and Bourbon screamed her little head off, so much so, that the air hostess was giggling over the intercom (Sorry!!).
Once we did take off I was allowed to put the soft crate bag in my lap and open the top so Bourbon’s head could see me and breathe. Thankfully after her screaming fit she fell asleep once we were in the air. Upon landing she woke up again and we tried to get through immigration as fast as possible. I declared my new puppy to import and paid a really small amount of fees before I found our car and headed home for another 1.5 hour drive. Bourbon thankfully was amazing in the car and didn’t get carsick the way Whiskey used to. I think the entire ordeal was pretty exhausting for us both.
Day 2 with the monsterBlep
Day 1-3
Arriving with Bourbon, I was living alone (in quarantine) for over the first week. Bourbon was expectedly confused with her new surroundings. Our home is about 1000sq ft, about half of it was baby-gated off. The first couple days Bourbon would cry if she wasn’t in the same room as me. If I left to go to the bathroom, she would get lost looking for me so I kept the doors opened, taught her to follow my voice, and laid out a soft dog bed in every room so she had a place to wait.
Our backyard is not fenced so I kept her on a leash in the front yard and let her trail a leash in the backyard. I had no idea what her bladder schedule was like so I took her out after every meal, every time she woke up, every half an hour she was awake, and treated and praised her for going outside. I didn’t have a harness ready because I had such a hard time trying to guess the size to get (big mistake) but luckily our cat harness fit for the first week until I could order and receive the Ruffwear Flagline harness (XS was loose but worked for her entire puppy-hood).
We still had a couple accidents inside, but never more than one a day, and overall Bourbon was much easier to housetrain than Whiskey (in an apartment vs a house). She however had a habit of stepping in her poop right after going so I had lots of use for dog wipes. I wasn’t working so it really helped I could just spend my time watching her and try to sneak in a shower or make a quick meal if she fell asleep.
I didn’t want to crate train right away as I felt horrible pulling Bourbon from her littermates to a cold plastic crate so Bourbon slept with me very happily. To be honest I was also too exhausted to add sleep deprivation into the mix so I kept delaying crate training until later. Bourbon also worked out her relationship with our cat Moo over the next couple weeks learning to fear the creature and also how to play “stalk and kill” with her.
Getting a sit stayLovely nap, now lets what can I chew on
First week- (8-9 weeks old)
5-7 hours sleep (in bed) 100m “walks” sit/paw/come
Our first week together I was mostly working on bonding, getting a solid sit, and practicing all the recall I could! We worked on chewing the right items and learning how to settle. She was a little shark and would just chew anything in sight so redirecting was a full time job (it’s easier if you have loads of toys of different textures available throughout the house always at an arms reach). Chews we used are listed here
Settling was very important, where you need to hold your pup and calm them when they are overly tired or out of control. It teaches them how to self regulate early, and how to put themselves to sleep. Bourbon was pretty good at this in the beginning but you had to be very firm and calm and totally ignore all the bites and wiggles. This gets much harder as they get older and smarter and we had to relearn this several times but it’s such a game changer. I find that the advice to yelp when they bite does NOT work when they are having sharkies (going nuts and biting everything). It only ramps them up and the yelping didn’t seem to work for anyone I talked to at this stage (during active sharkies). What really worked was slowing my own heartrate down, holding her in a way she couldn’t escape, and calmly (I know this is really hard when your hands are bleeding) saying “settle” or a cue word. Focusing on my own heartrate, transferring calmness to Bourbon really helped her relax. The key was to wait until she had this signature deep sigh and I knew she had settled. Sometimes I needed to repeat this multiple times but it made life so much easier.
I also lent Bourbon out to friends so they could take her around new situations because I was in quarantine and couldn’t expose her to everything I wanted to. It also helped to prevent separation anxiety and fears. My lovely friends took her to a café, to Home Depot, around different neighborhoods and trails (but did stay away from dog-busy frequently trafficked areas to avoid diseases). She stayed close and on leash and didn’t seem to mind a change of humans. I spent my free time cutting down blackberry bushes that Bourbon seemed to love chewing (they had large sharp thorns!).
At this point Bourbon wasn’t food motivated and had to learn that treats were to be valued (she preferred her own kibble to cheese). There was little to no attention span and self control. My main goal was to bond with her and find her motivations so I had something to work with in terms of training.
At night, Bourbon could sleep up 5-7 hours straight, one potty early morning, and back to another 5 hours. Sleeping with her was a dream and she was really sweet and cuddly.
I knew I wanted to switch Bourbon to raw food but I didn’t want to change her food right after a traumatic separation from her family and such a crazy transition though the airports and roads. I waited a couple days to make sure her poops were good, and then offered a bit of raw which she willingly ate. I tried a meal of half/half but Bourbon would pick out what was familiar (the kibble) so I fully switched the next meal to all raw and success! I then used the rest of the kibble as training treats until they were all finished. I didn’t seem to have any transition issues or tummy issues with the whole ordeal.
2nd weekTiny short forest walks (like 500m)
2nd week (9-10 weeks old)
5-7 hours sleep (in bed) 500m “walks” sit/paw/come/leave it/down/go potty
I thought I was getting the hang of settling but it got harder! Sharkies got worse with more bite, more energy and no fear. Bourbon was introduced to her first off leash walks in the forest where she stayed very close and recalled like a champ. I was able to introduce the concept of “leave it” so a tiny bit of self control, as well as crating when she needed a time out.
She continued to have zoomies and sharkies and was introduced to Whiskey. As soon as she had Whiskey, she just clung to her and would want to be playing with her or sitting on her so we needed to make sure that Whiskey wasn’t overwhelmed and had her own space. Whiskey had separate hikes during the day and slept in a different bed. However I did train the together, and treated Whiskey generously when she let Bourbon touch or cuddle with her (it took 48 hours). Bourbon just automatically gravitated towards Whiskey over any human and followed her lead. It was both easier and harder!
Out on the trails Bourbon would adventure and discover on her own. I slept with Bourbon and Thierry had Whiskey in another room with her regular crate routine. At this time we noticed Bourbon had some issues with being constrained and she had a fractured toe (from various accidents that made it worse). She also hinted at a guarding behavior. I started working on little training sessions to offset what I saw. I trained with treats and jackets (jackets seemed to trigger her), harness, and “leave it” commands. We also played games where we would play a little rough and hold her down for a second and let her go again which she was ok with.
First canoe tripsLake Louise in the Canadian Rockies
3-4 week (10-12 weeks old)
5-7 hours sleep 750m-1km “walks” (over an hour, lots of breaks) sit/paw/come/leave it/down/go potty/stay/boats/
As soon as I was out of quarantine, we went on a roadtrip and introduced Bourbon to many many new things. She lived in a car and a tiny trailer without issues. She had her first kayak and canoe rides, her first mini “hikes” on leash (.5km), met a ton of dogs and people, and tried some longer walks mixed with being carried. She still wasn’t fully bonded to us (happily would follow and walk off with a stranger or another dog) but was absolutely bonded to Whiskey. We maxed out at 30mins awake in a canoe and 40mins in a kayak. During this time we also did some meal replacement with freeze dried raw food for training and were getting much better recalls and sit/stays. Everything was chewed on and eaten and every dog needed to be greeted. We reinforced a routine even on the road with 3 feedings a day, and expected quiet times, and time for little adventures. Bourbon’s attention span got longer (measured in the amount of time she would chew something before losing interest).
I mentioned Bourbon had problems being constrained so I worked on making jackets a happy thing (she hated them and would fight them). I would always put on jackets with a treat and spent time putting them on and off as a training session. After a week she no problems with jackets. I worked on “leave it” to deal with guarding and made sure she felt safe eating. I made the dogs wait for their bowls longer and longer, and constantly took away chews for better options, or took away toys and gave them back. I haven’t seen much guarding other than no dropping a prized “treat” she finds outside since then.
We started introducing sleeping alone in her crate after a full month. It was about 1.5 hours of crying and screaming for 2 days (crate was in the bed with us) and on the 3rd night it was about half an hour before she went to sleep. We would let her out at around 5am for a potty and then she was allowed to sleep with us until we got up that morning. She regressed in terms of how long she could sleep without needing a potty break but eventually that extended until she could sleep all night. I’ll write a more full post about this soon!
Settling became easier as we both understood how to communicate to her better. We stopped having to crate her to settle and she started understanding NO. We got better at sit/stays and extending walks to 1.5kms towards the end of 4 weeks. Recall was constant work (and still is). Bourbon also had to learn to approach dogs gently and was reminded every week or so by a couple nips (nothing breaking skin), growls, and lessons from older dogs. The worst Whiskey would do would be a growl with teeth showing which we would allow and encourage Bourbon to respect the boundaries.
LOGLOG!!!First snow experience…not so happyFirst summit (assistance needed)
There seemed to be no fear of fireworks (during Halloween), of dogs, of people, or really anything. We slowly increased outdoor hiking time and distance while encouraging confidence but also caution. Bourbon was comfortable being carried on longer walks and learned to ask for help when needed (when she was cold or tired). She also learned to seek warmth and self regulate on walks (not just go totally nuts every time we took a break). I tried to hide on her in the forest to keep her range a big closer, although I’m not sure how much that worked since her confidence was already so high.
Bourbon continued chewing everything but with bigger jaw muscles and longer attention span. My computer speaker, a couple plants, some beautiful rugs and blankets, a dog bed and my tablet pen were all victims. Somehow she lost all her baby teeth without us finding a single one! Her favorite chew toy was her sister and she would regularly jump on Whiskey’s back and just start chewing. Whiskey was so patient with her!
Bourbon’s toe was finally healed but she was left with sensitivity to nails being clipped and handled (she was scared already before the injury which made it worse). We started experimenting with different methods to do her nails.
Bourbon was also introduced to snow for the first time, as well as some steeper rocky climbs and heights. We encouraged her to explore at her own comfort level and to find her own way up obstacles. She started being able to sit for lengths of time for photos and posing with other dogs.
More assistance down needed for longer hikesA week downtown was very exhausting for both of us
3 months home (5 months old)
9 hours sleep 4km “walks” (loads of breaks and carrying) sit/paw/come/leave it/down/go potty/stay/spin/touch/up working on exposure to downtown, walking on leash without pulling, prey drive
I rented a downtown apartment for a week to expose Bourbon alone to the city, noises, distractions, and buildings. She took to everything extremely well (including elevators) although the hardest was pigeons, crows, and falling leaves. My voice broke after all the high pitched calls and noises I was making to get her attention! Bourbon had loads of on-leash practice time (something we rarely do outside of the city) and got better at walking without pulling (with a ton of rewards and active training). I used the Ruffwear Flagline harness for all the on leash work and the handle was SO key to be able to lift her up in situations (such as eating something on the ground, walking into traffic, or big dog coming). I started being able to recall her off some dogs, some people, and some distractions. She started showing her stubbornness and personality but conversely insisted on following routines and schedules. Bourbon is a very clear communicator. Hikes with more and more cliffs were introduced as well as inclines (I carried her down any inclines if there was potential impact).
We started daily doing nail desensitizing trying different methods so we could clip or Dremel her nails. Since Whiskey’s never loved her nails done, we also trained Whiskey at the same time. As of writing this I’m 3 months into daily nail desensitizing and we’ve definitely improved but can still only get 1-4 of Bourbon’s nails done each session. Whiskey’s really easy at this point but I think it’ll still be another month at least with Bourbon.
This month was salmon season in full effect so we found out that Bourbon was an eater (of deer/elk/horse poop, and rotten carcasses) not a roller (Whiskey is typically a roller). Bourbon also loved to invent and play games by herself or with other pups. Her adult personality really became clear around this time and she started making up games to play such as throwing things down steep slopes so she could chase after them, or just watch them fall. We still hadn’t seen any fear stages show up.
Getting comfortable on rocky cliffs and mountainsAnother snowy summit. This time up and down all on her ownThe happiest girl!
4 months home (6 months old)
10 hours sleep 6km walks once a week, usually 2-3km walks twice a day offleash sit/paw/come/leave it/down/go potty/stay/up/spin/weave/high five/fetch/gogo working on distractions, faster recalls, nails, soft mouth
We were able to increase canoeing time to 1 hour and hikes to 6km with lots of rests (done rarely). I started cross country skiing with Bourbon and she learned how to avoid skis. Meals were down to 2 a day with no accidents in the house. Bourbon’s dog on dog greeting was pretty good at this point coming in friendly but submissive and flipping over as soon as a dog shows any aggression. She listened to and responded to recalls from people/dogs but only after saying hi first. We were about 50/50 successful on recall from people/dogs before she said hello from a decent distance.
At this point there was some giardia going around our neighborhood and both Whiskey and Bourbon took turns having the runs, but nothing terrible. I switched them on home cooked food for a couple days but there didn’t seem to be any cause to worry (I would have worried if it was my first dog). Bourbon’s range increased to about 200m within sight but overall ranged close enough for me to see her in forests and was very hard to hide from (even if I hid she tracked me down fast). She was also independent enough to play with herself during hiking breaks and would wander off to chase pinecones around instead of begging for food.
Getting better a higher logs and balancingLonger hikes with little to no impactRocking the modelling world
5 months home (7 months old)
10 hours sleep/almost adult bladder 8 km flat walks once a week, usually 2-3km walks twice a day offleash sit/paw/come/leave it/down/go potty/stay/up/spin/weave/high five/fetch/all with dog and people distractions working on nails, recall from dogs, loose leash, attention span, fetch, not chewing the wrong things
Bourbon is reaching the weight limit that I can carry on steep terrain. We are always working on recall and checking in, as well as walking with dogs she is to ignore. She’s successfully done a couple hard log crossing that full sized dogs would be afraid of. She’s shown cliff awareness but I still don’t feel safe with her off leash around death drops (likely for several more months!). We’ve done enough skiing (even one backcountry) and she’s aware not to get in the way of skis and she’s been ok in multiple types of clothing and doggy sleeping bags. Our bond has really grown but she still show no separation issues on the rare times we have a chance to leave her with someone else. She’s a very curious and thoughtful puppy and loves games to keep her brain occupied.
She chews inappropriate things now about once a week and is allowed around the rest of the house (no more baby gates). Because of Covid we haven’t practiced leaving her for periods of time in her crate. We are practicing sit/stays/recalls etc around other dogs, in dog parks, and highly distracted areas. Her stomach seems pretty strong for all the things she ingests without getting sick. I’m still working on snappy recalls and trust as well as teaching her to settle when bored (she normally goes off to find something to destroy or make up her own games at home). Bourbon still seems totally fine on her own or with Whiskey, with a different pack of dogs, or solo. Hopefully at some point when the border opens, we can get her trained on birds!
Reaching Assiniboine’s epic views involves some logistics, and planning but it isn’t very difficult. Getting there with dogs is a whole different experience! For all the right reasons, dogs are not encouraged in the park and there are loads of limitations that can take quite a bit of researching to find out. I’m all for limiting the backcountry to dogs that are trained and have experience (imagine if anyone at your local dog park could fly their dog in for the weekend) as this place is so special and is chalk full of wildlife and there are a list of things to consider before attempting to come.
Nub Peak with an oncoming winter storm to the left. We had to abandon camp earlyAn easy day hike around Magog Lake
Dogs are not allowed in any shelter, building, on the helicopter, on the bus to Sunshine valley, nor the gondola. They must be under control and on leash. There is abundant wildlife everywhere!
At Lake Magog with Mount Assiniboine looking overWith Erica coming in through the Assiniboine pass and meadows full of ground squirrelsViews from Nublet are hard to beatSunshine Village Route from top of Gondola
There are 3 main ways of arriving into the main campground at Lake Magog (there’s others that are less well travelled, I’ll stick to the 3 main ones). The first and easiest is a quick helicopter ride from Mt Shark Trailhead but dogs are not allowed. The second is hiking in from Sunshine Village, however dogs are not allowed on the bus to Sunshine village, nor are they allowed up the gondola (so you can still do this, however it would likely involve at least one night camping along the way and more distance and incline than the next option). Lastly you can hike from Mount Shark trailhead taking either the Wonder Pass or Assiniboine Pass (the trail splits at about 15km mark).
Wonder Pass is harder but well worth the effort on a sunny day during larch season
Details/Tips/Tricks/Lessons Learnt
Our tent can (and has) taken 1 foot of snow. We bring layers for dogs as well as humans, extra food, daypacks, rain gear and have seen deer, grouse, rabbit, grizzly, and marmot at camp.
The trail from Mt Shark is about 30km to the campsite give or take 2kms and dogs are not allowed in the shelters along the way. The camping along the route isn’t very special (also buggy!) so I’ve always hiked straight in. There is also a special trick to make the whole thing easier- although dogs are not allowed on helicopters, you can pay to fly in your bag, or gear. However, there are a couple things to note with this “trick”. The first is that you pick up your gear at Assiniboine lodge which is 2kms away from the campgrounds so you must be able to walk your bag over and back easily (I do not suggest a 50lb duffle bag at the end of a 30km hike!). In order to fly your gear in, you must check in your gear in Canmore prior to driving to the trailhead so make sure you time it right or you might not get your gear in time! The second time I did this hike, there was no such option available during Covid, so we had to carrying everything in.
Last note is that it makes much more financial sense to fly in a person with 40lbs allotted gear if you have that possibility (instead of paying per lb for gear) but I’ve never been in a group large enough that we could fly someone in. Also if you have a problem, they will not fly your dog out, so make sure you have everything you need to hike yourself and your dog out!
Hiking in through Assiniboine Pass with a full 5 day load pack
I’ve done this trip twice, and each time it’s not gone to plan. Mother Nature likes to remind us that she’s boss and we need to roll with whatever she throws. The first time I did this hike in September we got snowed in the second night waking up with more than 1 foot of snow on our tent. The weather report said there was more coming and everyone started clearing the campgrounds, however we couldn’t join the exodus into the cabins because of Whiskey (no dogs allowed), so we ended up hiking out early several days early during an early winter storm. It was a mentally tough hike in snow that turned into relentless rain for a really really long day and at the point our minds had become really numb we almost walked right into a bull moose in the middle of the trail. Thankfully the moose didn’t charge us and went into the forest and we continued on until we got back to our car and into warm dry clothes.
The second trip I came with Erica and her hiking pole broke early on and she experienced some really bad leg pains with an already injured knee. Since we had to carry all our gear in (45lbs+packs), our hike slowed to a crawl and we adjusted our trip to have many more rest days and cancelled a side camp trip to Og Lake. On both trips the weather was very difficult to predict and far from perfect (I have this luck that it’s always freezing on my trips). However the bad weather seemed to coincide with rest days and just makes me want to go again so I can finally experience the elusive Assiniboine experience that doesn’t need all my winter and rain gear.
Winter storm hitting us while we are on Nublet
What I’ve learned from these adventures to Assiniboine is
Book extra nights at the campgrounds so you can adjust your trip accordingly. Let the rangers know if you are leaving early though, so someone else can take your tent spot.
Fly some of your gear in, but pay attention to drop off and pick up times (non-covid times)
Use an Inreach Garmin to get an accurate weather report of the day (pay for the detailed report) and for a safety communication device. The ability to predict weather is worth so much if you’re heading out on a 6 hour hike alone in spotty weather.
Train for this hike if you are doing it in one day, train your dog, and train carrying the weight!
This location is PACKED full of wildlife including meadows full of ground squirrels, marmots under the outhouses, grouse, rabbit, deer, grizzly bear, and moose (I’ve seen every one of those on this trail!). You MUST have control of your dog (and I’m not just talking about hooking up a leash!) because if your dog pulls you towards every single squirrel you are going to be damaging your dog’s neck and you’re going to be dragged around like a puppet. You’ll have a much better time if you can hike and watch the wildlife with a dog calmly at your side.
Use hiking poles, your knees will thank you
If you are camping with dogs, study the campground map and find a quiet corner to camp at. I like site 16, although furthest from bathrooms and the shelters/bear caches, I will bother the least amount of people. Whiskey will have less chances to feel like she needs to warn me of people approaching (less anxiety for everyone) and I’ll be able to relax more.
We are so grateful to be able to experience this place with our pups
The Hike in From Mt Shark
Hike from Mt Shark to Lake Magog with two passes
Mt Shark trailhead starts from a long dirt road from Canmore with loads of potholes and corrugation that might have your teeth rattling. The road is exceptionally beautiful at sunrise and sunset if you can time it well! The trail head has great facilities including bathrooms, picnic tables and a large garbage. The trail actually take you across province lines (from Alberta to BC) and across park lines (although NOT timezones funny enough).
There are several side trails so make sure you have a good GPS map when you start (every wrong turn will cost you extra this day). The beginning of the trail is nice, wide and flat and is the quickest part of the hike. Once you pass the bridge over spray river/lake you start into the forest where the trail narrows but is till really easy to follow and hike. You’ll pass by BR9 campsite and keep going towards Bryant Creek Shelter. There is water at the Spray Lakes bridge, at the campsites, and at Bryant Creek Shelter (with Br 13 and 14 close by). Remember dogs are not allowed in the shelter but perhaps during a storm it could be life saving.
Wonder Pass with Larches in full gloryErica with Bodhi halfway up Sunburst for sunsetWeather is always changing (at least with my luck). Check the weather as much as possible
Here you need to decide if you are continuing onto Wonder Pass or Assiniboine pass. This is where the incline starts and you need to start working! Assiniboine pass is easier if you are carrying a ton of weight- it’s slightly longer but feels easier overall. Erica and I chose this way as she was in pain and it was the least impact. I also chose the for the way down during the storm I was hiking in on the first trip. Assiniboine pass has two options- hikers trail or horse trail. The hikers trail is higher with better views but is technically harder with more bridge crossings. The horse trail is lower in the valley and can be muddy with lots of shallow water crossings. Earlier in season I wouldn’t suggest the horse trail unless you don’t mind your feet being soaked but later in season the hiker’s pass may be closed and that may be the only option (as we experienced during the storm).
Wonder Pass with LarchesTrail from the lodge to camp is 2km of amazing
Wonderpass takes you to Marvel lake, around the side of the lake, and up some switchbacks into the pass between Wonder Peak and The Towers. If you miss this pass on the walk in, it’s definitely worth a day hike from the campground! In the right season the larches are just amazing and the pass is a very easy hike from the lodge. During the height of summer, watch carefully your water sources if it’s warm and know that not all the creeks on the maps may be flowing.
Hiking back in a storm, we went from snowstorm to rainstorm and then to a bull mooseLooking at Sunburst Peak from the lakesLooking at Sunburst and Assiniboine from Nublet
Once you have set up camp, you have loads of day hike options. The money shot is from the Nublet/Nub, a quick 7km+ (to Nublet) hike return from the campground. There’s loads of places to scramble and climb depending on your comfort level, as well as your dogs. Remember this is very remote and wild country with no rescue or fly-outs for your dog so please know your level and stay well within it. Even the Nub hike can have grizzlies so always bring bear spray and call out for bears.
We’ve scrambled halfway up Sunburst Peak (no trail), all the way up Chucks ridge (no trail), Nub Peak via Elizabeth Lake (no trail), Windy Ridge (14km trail) and there’s still so much I want to do! For rest days you can walk around Lake Magog, Sunburst Lake, Cerulean Lake and Elizabeth Lake. In all, remember that the goal for your 30km hike isn’t to just get to Lake Magog, it’s to get there to start hiking so make sure you’re up for it!
Scrambling up Nub from Elizabeth Lake (no trail)Windy Ridge, not a single person on the trail, not a technical trailErica and Bodhi at Windy Ridge looking into Banff with a rainbowChuck’s ridge was an adventure, totally not most-dogs friendlyOnly take mountain goats up scrambles!
There are very few wild places like this that still allow dogs so please represent us dog owners well! Clean up after your pup, keep clear of other campers, keep on leash, and respect the wildlife. There are loads of birds and chipmunks at every eating station, a marmot lives under one of the outhouses, and we saw deer and grouse right at our tent (and a grizzly mom and cubs had been through our campsite while we were out). Scrambles are not easy so please hike well within your dog’s limits and please do not use earphones so you can hear and see wildlife! Lastly, don’t let your dogs lick the frogs on the trail, Bodhi had a bit of a reaction when he (on leash) had a taste of one!
Girls and their dogs! It’s a ton of effort but so worthwhileWhiskey’s second time around and we still didn’t clear skies…next time!
I’ve been tracking Whiskey and Bourbon’s weight as they’ve been growing up and it’s a frequent question I get. Whiskey’s adult weight is about 52lbs, which she reached over 2 years old for reference. Whiskey was weaned from kibble to homecooked food, to raw as a puppy. Bourbon was switched straight to raw within 2 days (raw-fed reportedly slower to reach full weight). Whiskey had numerous digestive issues (Giardia, picky eating) as a puppy, and Bourbon has had none (outside of eating questionable rotten carcasses outside).
Whiskey when she was a tiny pup with gigantic ears
Berg Lake is one of the world’s most beautiful lakes situated in Mount Robson Provincial Park, British Columbia, Canada. The trail takes you past Kinney Lake, Emperor Falls and is heavily trafficked with an elevation gain of 1509m. There are several campsites along the way to Berg Lake as well as 2 campsites at Berg Lake itself, however dogs are not allowed overnight at any campsite on the route. I have since found that you can hike yourself out of Mt Robson Park and into Jasper National Park and camp at Adolphus Lake with your dog but it would be a good 28km+ day with your pack and the lake is nothing special compared to Berg. Either option is NOT for the unexperienced and involve long distances with incline and you must be able to exit the park yourself with your dog without assistance. Both you AND your dog need to be conditioned to hiking exceptionally long distances, work as a team, and be on leash throughout. The trail is mostly narrow and graded as well as busy, mostly follows a clean water source, and would be extremely hard to get lost on.
Erica with Bodhi the ridgeback at Berg Lake
My good friend Erica has always wanted to do this hike with her ridgeback Bodhi and I happily agreed to the 40+km day. We have been hiking together for a couple years and have a similar pace and goals (of taking photos, completing the hike, and dealing with dogs). The trail is long but not technically hard at all with only one section of major incline. We packed as light as possible, and with many water sources along the way were not concerned about carrying much water. We used harnesses on the dogs because even though they’re trained not to pull, it’s an extremely long day and it’s best to reduce the tension on their necks. Leashes were attached to our daypacks around our waist (except for photo breaks) so we were hands free for hiking poles (another helpful piece of gear!).
Approaching Kinney Lake
Getting the earliest start possible is key in order have some wiggle room should anything unforeseen happen so we hit the trail at sunrise and got to Kinney Lake easily and quickly (about 7km). You can also bike this section but you must lock up your bike at the campground and hike the rest of the trail (we didn’t have space in our car for two bikes and the speed difference for us wasn’t’ worth it). We spent at least an hour trying to find a place to take photos of the lake before moving on. There seemed to be tent pads set up at the south end of Kinney Lake but they were all flooded and not in use.
Kinney Lake from the campgroundBodhi really cautiously crossing the Whitehorn Suspension Bridge
After Kinney Lake Campground at the North area of Kinney Lake, there’s an option on our map to take the Kinney Flats Trail or the Forest trail, although during our hike we found the Kinney Flat trail wasn’t an option as the water was too high and the area was flooded. After that there’s a couple small bridges and flat sections that connect to the large suspension bridge over Robson River. This suspension bridge was the only obstacle that could have derailed the day if Bodhi refused to cross. Whiskey pranced across before I could even take photo but Bodhi took quite a bit of convincing and cheering to cross. To safely cross we let the dogs off leash so that there was only one person or dog on the bridge at a time to reduce swaying and to reduce any tangles. For Bodhi I was on one side while Erica was on the other so we could cheer him on from either side (Whiskey had already crossed to show him). Bodhi crawled his was across to safety and had a little prance to celebrate!
White FallsIncline from White Falls to Emperor Falls
After the bridge we passed Whitehorn Campground and continued onto White Falls. Stupidly we didn’t rewater before the incline (about 500m) and being a hot day, we both ran out of water pretty fast. We knew (and could see on our maps) that the waterfall was coming up quickly so we just kept going towards Emperor falls instead of heading back down to refill. Once we got to Emperor Falls, it provided the perfect air conditioning mist so all thoughts of needing water disappeared. We took photos for another 45mins before heading on to refill water at Emperor Falls Camp and onto our first glimpse of Berg Lake.
Emperor FallsNature’s air-conApproaching Berg Lake
We approached Berg from the SW corner with gigantic glaciers framing the lake. At Marmot Campground, we debated if we should finish the hike a bit further on the NW side (Berg Lake Campground) or just call it done but we finally decided another 2kms (4 km total) wasn’t going to add much anyways so we went for it! I’m thankful we did because the beach at Berg Lake Campground was so much nicer and we threw off our shoes and took a little summer nap on the beach overlooking a turquoise lake with glaciers. We had a lovely section of the beach all to ourselves and the dogs promptly took a well deserved nap. I think we took a 1.5 hour break there with photos, food, and a dip.
Having a really well deserved rest
Keeping a close eye on the time, it was soon getting late and we had to put our shoes back on and head back. This time we stopped only for bathroom breaks and water refills and a long break at the bridge convincing Bodhi to cross again. It’s amazing how much faster the way back can seem without photo breaks and inclines.
Whiskey having a roll in the sunthe last stretch to and from Berg Lake
Something interesting on the return, we noticed that the trail didn’t look familiar on the section as we got back to Kinney Lake. It was dark at that point so we just assumed we had remembered wrong but we would find out later there had been an avalanche during the day which had erased part of the trail and flooded other sections. Since we had maps and knew where we were aiming, we didn’t have any navigational issues but were confused at the time about the status of the trail (some sections were fully flooded!). The last 7kms were the longest of the day as they normally are, but we were soon back to the car, feeling good, and ready to sleep and get ready for our next adventure!
Whiskey patiently waiting for Bodhi to cross the bridge again
With this distance being non-technical, I found both dogs were tired (Bodhi especially) but no one had any impact aches and pains. Erica had some worsening foot injuries from unrelated events but overall I really did find the 40km+ hike wasn’t anywhere near as hard on our bodies as some 10km days in serious backcountry mountains or a 25km day carrying weight. I’d love to be back in the future with Bourbon and maybe even with a pack on my back!
These items should be on your hiking checklist! Optional gear is in GREEN, Seasonal gear is in BLUE. This is assuming something like an 8 hour alpine hike in the backcountry with no reception and a dog.
10 essentials for any hike 1. Navigation 2. Headlamp 3. Sun protection 4. First Aid 5. Knife 6. Fire 7. shelter 8. Extra food 9. Extra Water 10. Extra clothing
I’ve been backcountry camping with Whiskey since I’ve had her and we’ve tried so many different forms and types of gear. While I’ve gotten used to carrying a significant amount of weight, every piece that I bring needs to be purposeful, tough, and lightweight (in that order). For reference we hike and camp in bear country, usually with the threat of variable weather, rain, snow, river crossings, and in wild country. We avoid crowds and sometimes hike without trails. Normally I go with girlfriends but once a year tend to go alone. Over the year I tend to camp close to the snowline, in the alpine, and summit peaks close to camp. Ticks are not an issue for us being so cold, but other wildlife is, so keeping scent-free is very important. I hope our gear guide is helpful, please let me know if you have any specific questions! A few links may be affiliate but are meant as a guide as to where you can buy the product. I do not promote one brand above others and have purchased most of the gear myself.
Whiskey rocking her Palisades Ruffwear bags and K9topcoat base layer
The BASICS
Dog leash- Wilderdog– I love gear that’s multi-purpose especially if I’m needing to carry it in on my back up a mountin! Wilderdog uses climbing rope and real locking carabiners. I’ve used the leash for everything from hanging a bear bag, lifting up my pup up some steep sections (from the harness, not neck), to even installing my tire chains. We’ve used the leashes for several years and they’re in top condition.
Hiking Pack- Ruffwear Palisades Pack– My love of this bag matches the love of my own Osprey. I love LOVE how the packs can come off and on so easily so we can take it off during food breaks. I ask Whiskey to carry a hefty load on multidays and every break she can get really helps. The harness underneath is perfect for summiting trips so I don’t need to bring another piece of gear. It’s good to note that we did break one of the tiny buckles that secures the bag onto the side of the dog (it’s not a major problem), and I’ve been too lazy to ask for a replacement buckle. The material of the bag also does rub and wear overtime on bushes and trees but overall I’m just so impressed by the ease of this product.
So much gear needed for backcountry camping, but so worth it
Harness- Ruffwear Flagline Dog Harness– Whiskey doesn’t tend to pull but if you’re hiking all day long on-leash it’s much more comfortable for everyone if your pup is on a harness, especially around mountain tops and technical scrambles. Bourbon is new to technical scrambles so I would always recommend a handle on the harness to help your dog up sections and have the easiest way to grip them should they slip (also easiest for a friend to help as well). If you’re even thinking you may need a harness, I would always recommend one with a handle.
Tent– Depending on the size of your dog, you may need to go up one person size of your tent (ie if you’re two people with one large dog you may need a 3ppl tent). I also highly recommend NOT getting an UL tent as the mesh on those are so easily torn with dog paws. Whiskey loves to “knock” on the mesh to ask to be let in and out and also to say hi to friends in the morning. UL tents also have snaggier zippers which aren’t good if you need to unzip in a pinch for a pee break/barf emergency.
I use vintage Marmot tents that are really heavy compared to what’s available these days but I just find the doors are huge, zippers are great, and the material lasts so well. Our 3 person Ajax tent has been under a foot of snow, in all conditions and we’ve had it for a decade now. I also highly recommend that you leave the bottom of the tent unzippered and teach your dog how to go in and out without having to ask you to unzip and zip each time. I’m totally resigned to the fact my tent’s going to be messy with dogs so I just keep my clothes in the corners. Lastly even if the evening calls for blue skies, consider bringing the fly unless you’re sure your dog won’t be bothered by watching the outdoors. I find most dogs sleep better when they cannot see outside.
The Klymit Moon Dog Mat
Klymit Moon Dog Mat– A really tough blow up mat that makes all the difference when the ground is cold, or you just want a comfortable spot to put your pup. Like humans, dogs lose so much heat from the ground so having an elevated surface really helps. I don’t bring the outer cloth layer anymore as it just adds bulk and weight and I’ll almost always bring a doggy sleeping bag instead. The mat is also great in canoes or anywhere else you want a mat that’s waterproof. I love the inflation system and I’m not even nervous about dog nails on these tough mats.
The Whlyd River Sleeping Bag that I carry on colder hikes
Whlyd River sleeping bag– Discount code: WHISKEY10 the best and warmest doggy sleeping bag out there. There’s so many options to adjust the bag to your needs and dog’s comfort, and a strap at the bottom to keep the bag on a mat. Available in 3 sizes we use Medium, Whiskey loves her bag and crawls right on as soon as I pull it out. There should be a down UL bag coming soon (the original uses synthetic insulation which is better for damp/wet conditions) that I would also totally recommend if you need to go light and don’t need the ultimate warmth the original provides. I use the UL bag during the day and slip the bag over the footbed of my own sleeping bag to keep me warm Whiskey Whiskey crawls in to join me. Another sidenote is that I normally take off most of Whiskey’s jackets if she’s going under the sleeping bag so she can warm up and so any dampness (it’s always damp where we are) doesn’t keep her cold.
Gundogsupply collar– We have lots of fancy collars but tend to go to these basic collars with nameplates. I’ve lost too many collar tags to trust them and if for some reason I lose a dog, I want to know my contact information is going to be on her collar. The collars are super tough and reasonably priced.
Our Ajax Marmot tent has lasted over a decade
the Human
Klymit extra wide sleeping bag– Whiskey sleeps in my sleeping bag with me at night (the dog mat and sleeping bag are for the rest of the time we are at camp because I don’t’ want her crawling in and out of my sleeping bag during the day). I haven’t found many options for extra wide bags and this one is amazing. It fits Whiskey and I with room to spare (I’ll report back if I can fit Bourbon as well) and comes in two warmth options. Please do note that when Whiskey’s in my bag I cannot keep the face section tightened so although Whiskey does add extra heat, the open bag does make it colder at the same time. Also, I take of Whiskey’s collar and clothing before she shares my bag so we don’t get tangled!
Nemo Sleeping mat– Not a dog thing, but I find if I’m sleeping with a dog my mat needs to be higher, wider, and more comfortable since we’ll both be moving around. I love this mat and it’s been much warmer than other mats of the same warmth rating.
for more Human hiking gear, here’s a more detailed post
the Kitchen
Dog bowl- I’ve tried the soft collapsible bowls but they break much easier (of two I’ve had both had holes from the dogs pawing at them). The fabric ones last but they’re a pain to clean when you feed something messy and leave food smells for the animals. I’m still looking for the perfect dog bowl!
DogFood- I highly recommend Open Farm Freeze Dried Raw (code WHISKEY10). It’s super lightweight, comes with a suitable package (so you don’t need to repack), I use half of her daily allowance for recall treats, and Whiskey’s poops are always so good.
Trying out my vintage 4 season tent, Whiskey chowing down on dinner with her dog mats
Earth Rated Poop Bags- Use the compositable bags and dispose of dog poop when you also need to go (in a proper waste management method like a cat hole). Bring a freezer zip lock bag to place the poop until you can dispose of them so you don’t have an “accidents”. I normally ask Whiskey to carry her own.
Bear Bag- Ursack- If you are camping in bear or critter country without suitable bear boxes, animals can easily get into your food at night. I really suggest these bear and critter proof bags to keep your food and seal it in a scent-proof bag (drybag) if you can. They’re heavy and an nuisance to carry but it also means you’re not attracting and feeding wildlife, putting yourself in danger, making sure your campsite stays open, and of course that your food isn’t eaten.
My Ursack poking through the bottom of my frost covered tent
the Extras
night light dog collar– There are clip on lights for dogs in the evenings but I’ve preferred these light up collars as others can see it’s a dog easier (it’s so scary if your dog walks by someone else’s campsite at night but much less threatening if they look like they’re ready to party). It’s also less likely that your dog may turn around and the light is obscured.
Bug Protection- I’ve tried everything and nothing “natural” works for more than 5 mins. If it’s bad I’ll keep Whiskey in the tent, cover her with a jacket/blanket, or put a jacket on her that I’ve sprayed with DEET. Otherwise you just have to keep moving. I believe Hurtta makes a bug suit but I’ve never tried it as Whiskey’s not allergic.
Winter camping involves more gear, but cabin winter camping is at least tent-less
Dog jackets- We’ve done loads of reviews on dog jackets but I didn’t want to ignore the need of protection in the evening when the temperature drops. Like humans it’s good to have layers, fleece, waterproof options, and maybe even a base layer depending on where you are going. The doggy bag is super warm but if you’re going to be out for long periods of time, having options is always great!
H2O4K9 Stainless Steel K9 Water Bottle– the “insulated” leaks- I normally carry a water bladder and hike in locations with loads of water so I don’t normally ever need to carry water for Whiskey. However if you do need a dog water bottle, this is the best one I’ve found. You can pour the unused water right back in so nothing is wasted and the lid doesn’t add much weight and works really well for Whiskey.
Sometimes I bring too much! This hike I have my boat and paddles attached to my bag
First Aid
Paw Wax- Pup Wax– I keep a tiny tin and apply on my pups paws at night while giving the paws a close inspection especially on rocky and long multi-days. It’s so important to check their paws as much as possible because if you can catch a cut early and boot it, you can save yourself the trip, a rescue call, or carrying your dog the rest of the way. Try and make it a nightly ritual! You can also apply to sunburnt noses and your own hands and feet if they’ve been overworked.
Allergy Pills- I keep Benedryl and Reactine with me on most hikes. Allergy reactions are one of the most common issues (wasps, bugs, plants, etc). It’s good to know your dog’s dose of the drugs and write them down.
Activated Charcoal– Eating human feces with THC is highly poisonous and getting more common. Write your dog’s dose of charcoal and keep on hand if you are on a busier campground/trail/bike trail. I’m the crazy dog owner that goes out of my way to inform anyone I see smoking that my dog can die if they don’t dig a deep enough cat hole.
Duct Tape/Zip lock baggy/bandages- These are part of my normal human first aid kit that I find the most useful crossover to dogs. Duct tape can help wounds, make booties, mend broken gear. Zip lock bags (go for the freezer ones) are useful in so many ways but can help keep something waterproof. Bandages are self explanatory!
Whiskey wearing her emergency bootie (she had a small cut) on a lunch break (packs off)
Booties– I normally bring an emergency bootie on long or serious camp trips. Boots that fit every single paw is best if you don’t want to bring the entire set so we go with Muttlucks (I can strap on really tightly and kept one on for 5 days of backcountry last year). If there’s any reason you may suspect your dog may need boots outside of an emergency (bad cut on glass for example) then bring an entire set and stay on the safer side.
Garmin InReach Device– should anything happen on your hike where you would need help (or come across someone else that may need help), you can communicate out of reception with any cell phone number or email (as well as SOS emergency systems). You can also track your location with GPS and check weather systems coming in.
Emergency Harness- I mention this as it’s something my friends have been pondering, some buying. You need to have some way to carry out your own dog should they become injured or sick. Whiskey’s just over 50lbs and I can carry her slowly over short distances on my shoulders and I do prefer that over a harness situation. Regardless, make sure you have a way to carry your dog and that you practice it before you need to. If you don’t regularly bring an emergency harness, practice carrying your dog over your shoulders (behind your neck) with their legs on either side so your dog feels comfortable and so you can get in and out of the position.
I’ve been hiking for a couple decades, try a ton of different gear, in all weathers and am REALLY TOUGH with my gear. With dogs, little balance, bad knees, and a good amount of tolerance to rain and snow, I can safely say this is gear I use and trust my life on. I’ll write another post on my camping gear, so this is aimed at day hikes in all weathers, mostly in rainy or potentially rainy weather where conditions change quickly.
I’ve been hiking for awhile and have gone through so much gear (including updating this backpack here)
Tough Gear > Lightweight Gear With dog nails, my own clumsiness, and the tendency here to always be climbing hard rock, lightweight gear just does not last.
Layers > Heavy single solution Because my hikes can take me through sunshine, to pouring rain, to hail, then snow, then sun again, perhaps with a couple mountains, layers are all important. I can go from shorts and tshirt to jacket weather really quickly passing by an exposed section of alpine, or a lunch stop while the rain rolls in. Merino wool is key with a waterproof shell can be key for not only your chest, but legs, feet, and head.
Expensive Brands with reliable Warranty > Cheaper No Name Brands Over the years I’ve worn down or bought expensive clothing that hasn’t stood up to what I expected. As I’m getting more conscious of environmental impact of cheap clothing, I find that the price per clothing PER USE is what I try to keep in mind. A cheaper jacket may only last a year but an expensive one can last 5 (that’s a miracle for hiking gear for me) and when that jacket stops working after 5 years sometimes a good brand may fix it for you. It may not the an option for everyone but please keep in mind the cost PER USE of an item vs the upfront cost and if you can, support brands that try and fix their clothing.
Clothing
Arc’teryx Jacket with Keb Pants (one vent opened) with Salomon Quest 4D GTX Hiking Boots
I love these pants. I live in them most of the year when it’s not super cold or super warm. They have two air vents on either side that I use nearly every hike, as well as gigantic pockets for treats and lens caps. There’s so many pockets I lose my car keys! I use the clips at the bottom as gaiters (not for crazy hikes but good enough) and they’re both comfortable and long-lasting. I cannot recommend them enough.
Merino Wool base layers! This is key no matter what brand you go with, make sure that the percentage of wool is high or I do find that the clothing picks up scent a bit more. My favorites are Mia Short sleeves Brooke 1/4 zip (base layers) and Avery leggings as a base layer
I’ve owned 6 of these over time. It’s the perfect hoodie for me- thinner, zip up pockets, hood that zips to chin, hand sleeves that convert to semi-mittens
They don’t look great but I haven’t found any other better option than these Amazon gloves (please let me know if you know some!) They’re stretchy, sized for females, and aren’t horrible in wet.
The first thing to get when you start hiking are merino socks. Wet feet or damp feet lead to blisters and a miserable day! Make sure you have a backup on longer hikes or wet hikes with river crossings
SV is for Severe weather. I live in rain for most of the year and my dog walks in 2 hour daily walks+ rainy hikes +all day rainy camp trips+ bushwhacking +river paddle trips counts as Severe! Yes these jackets are jaw droppingly expensive but I’ve tested and used their warranty several times. They actually stand by their gear and replace them if they leak. Since Gore-Tex really doesn’t last forever, it’s worth it for me to know my jacket will be replaced if I get a leaky one (I have unsuccessfully tried to replace Helly Hanson and North Face Gore Tex and only had a smooth replacement with Arc’teryx so now I’ll stick to this local brand).
These are my winter boots when I need something rigid or for any activities in the backcountry that doesn’t involve long days of hiking (they’re heavier than the Salomon boots)
Great car shoes or hut shoes. It means so much to come back to a car after a long 12 hour hiking day or multi-day and change into clouds on your feet.
I’ve tried different kinds of car shoes but since I’m usually hiking back to a forest road, with potential 4wding and puddles, I don’t like open shoes anymore if I need to jump in and out of my car (it’s so stupid to get a toe injury AFTER the hike!). Slip on shoes rule!
Bags
Osprey Ariel 65 with a WoolX top and leggings, Hillsound Trail Crampon Ultras and gaiters, photo by Ngaio Hotte
I love this bag so much for shorter summer hikes. The backstraps are sufficient to carry weight, it fits my DSLR, has extra compartments to fit a scary amount of items, and water compartment as well as waist strap. With my camera clip, I can carry my camera on the front strap and 2 extra lenses with bear spray, clothing layers, water, and food. It doesn’t look pretty but it works.
I carry this less now because I can fit so much in the Verve bag. I use the 34L for day hikes that need a bunch of extra layers, safety gear, camera gear, etc. It’s also better if I’m scrambling and don’t want many things hanging off my bag, or if I’m taking significant weight.
Great for smaller local walks, the bag looks so much nicer than the Osprey ones and fits my DSLR with extras.
Osprey Ariel 65 (I tried the Aura but switched) **new version only 70L** now seems to have a convertible lid to backpack
A big reason I switched from Aura was that top compartment convertible lid to backpack that I use very very often. The pack is super comfortable and I’ve loaded it to the max, using all the extra straps.
Safety
Helmet, Woolx top, Knee brace and Salomon Quest 4D GTX Hiking Boots with the Osprey Verve 9
I’m not a fan of adding things to my water so I prefer edibles
easy to share with others!
Knee Brace Bauerfeind Genutrain (not the Sports knee)
I have a meniscus tear from 5 years ago and my knee can swell up without this. The price is worth it, it makes an enormous difference over cheaper ones you get at a drugstore. The Sports version is not the same, so get the Genutrain
Battery Pack
Battery pack with usb for at least 1 charge on the phone (also charges my headlamp and my InReach device)
Get the 3L bag if you have a choice, especially on camping trips
I’ve tried MSR handpump (takes too long, too many parts that can break), the sawyer squeeze (takes too long, bags are frustrating, but lasts longer and easier to clean than Befree), and tablets (doesn’t get rid of sediment and you need a certain size bag of water). Overall, if I have the Befree the entire group will use it because it’s faster and easier but I will have a backup on bigger trips. I’ve still yet to find the perfect filter…
For scrambles where rocks can tumble onto someone else’s head
AllTrails App (or similar GPS device or App)
The pro version allows you to download offline maps. I’ve used these maps countless times over my hikes to assist in understanding where a trail was, where FSRs are, how to get back onto trails, and where best in rugged terrain to aim for.
no APP or device will help if you don’t know how to use them and how to navigate with them. They can also fail and not be accurate in mountains or valleys where there is interception of reception from satellites. Having a trip plan ahead of time, backup paper maps, batteries, and knowledge of terrain is extremely important and lifesaving.
Winter Extras
Hillsound Gaiters and Crampon Pro
Hillsound Crampons
I use the Hillsound Trail Crampon Ultra for most hikes that have varried terrain, or when I need to carry crampons “just in case”. I used to buy cheaper Amazon ones but after breaking 4 pairs I switched to these that are better made and support their products. Size up if you are wearing winter boots!
I use Hillsound Trail Crampon Pro when the entire hike is in the snow with little exposed rock. They provide more stability and will not ball up snow, and are easier to wear as they are rigid.
These are a good balance of tough and light. I tend to prefer slightly heavier gear that’s a bit tougher than super lightweight because I bushwack, have dogs, and ruin anything lightweight.
The same story as most of my gear! After trying out a bunch of cheaper headlamps I bought the Fenix HL60R. It’s rechargeable with usb (I carry an extra battery pack that covers this), is super bright, waterproof, doesn’t accidentally turn on in my bag, and I’ve never had an issue with it.
Ice Axe
I’ve never had to use it to self arrest but there have been enough situations where we’ve walked past an avalanche zone, or been hiking up a steep enough snow slope that I wished I had this.
Who knew a shovel would be so useful? When not out on avalanche terrain, I try and keep this in my car. We’ve helped dig out enough cars including my own that this has been a super worthy investment.
Probe
Part of my avalanche gear, you need a probe over 3m in our terrain here. AST1 course is needed before you venture out into our backcountry
Barryvox Transceiver
I have an older version for avalanche areas. I now feel stupid for hiking in areas with even a small bit of exposure without this.
All my avi gear, WoolX top, Garmin Inreach Mini, photo by Ngaio Hotte
I used a Black Diamond Shock pole for 6 years without issues and then switched to the FLZ treking poles because of the lightness and quick breakdown which I DO NOT RECOMEND as I broke two pairs (I also had to hack it for winter baskets). Then I switched to the Leki which so far has been wonderful but these poles do not allow winter baskets so now I use a cheap telescoping Black Diamond set for the winter.
I have the Beach and Bay model. With dogs the Beach is by far the best! You can fit so many dogs in as well as camera gear and the boat is quick (5mins) to set up and down (3mins) as well as stable and easy to use, best of all, packs up into a backpack.
At 10lbs the Explorer 42 boat can carry 2 people, 3 dogs (uncomfortably) or any amount of gear (weight up to 800lbs). I’ve carried this model up mountains and been the only one on the water. It’s wonderful for river crossings, hunting, bike trips, etc. Super stable and totally fine with dog nails, it blows up quickly with a big in under 5mins. However because it’s a raft it will go with the wind/waterflow and will spin if you stop paddling (ie it’s hard to take photos from in large water)
Their TuffStuff models are TOUGH! We have dragged these boats up and down rocky cliffs, dropped them from heights, and they’re very impressive. They’re also light enough I can portage easily and our 16ft fits a large amount of dogs without issue (we’ve fit 4 in, it was an adventure).
Peak design camera clip to hold up my camera while hiking on my backpack. I get asked about this all the time. I now have two clips so I don’t have to keep moving it from bag to bag and I really love this option!
Seems silly but I normally have a couple of these in my bag. They’re great if you need an energy boost, not dry so it’s easy to eat and digest if you are dehydrated, and doesn’t freeze easily so it’s great all year round (freezing food is an issue!).
Not for humans, but if I want my dogs to stick around, and also for emergency food/snacks, these are lightweight, healthy (who wants runny poops outside?), and every single dog I petsit likes it.
Over the first 7 months, Vizsla puppies can be very mouthy. They first go through a sharky stage at 3months and then start teething soon after so it’s really good to have multiple options for them to chew on outside of your skin, clothing, furniture, or other valuables.
Here’s various things we’ve tried, some with more success than others. Neither of my dogs are power chewers. They’re both pretty gentle and thoughtful with their chews and they lose interest quickly. The chews that DID NOT WORK were- nylabones and other synthetic chews. I also didn’t feed rawhide, cooked bones, or anything with too many ingredients.
Somehow the more expensive they are, the more they seem to enjoy them (for the same size, they prefer bison for example). Sometimes there are some particular ones Whiskey doesn’t seem to care for more than others
Get the largest ones you can for adult dogs as they will last longer per dollar, and get smaller ones for puppies or they may not be able to chew the gigantic ones
Both show medium interest and can lose interest after 10mins
Pay extra for odorless if there’s an option and chewing on your furniture
$8-20
Bourbon (sized small) 1 day, Whiskey (sized Massive) 3 days (I leave them out and they chew on and off but then Whiskey steals Bourbons)
An old favorite, I love these because we can leave them around the house and Whiskey or Bourbon will chew on them when they’re bored
Medium interest, they pick it up here and there
Get smaller ones for puppies, although Bourbon happily chews on the larger ones too
$11
Whiskey/Bourbon 2 weeks
Warning- if your dog is a big chewer these wouldn’t last as long, Also If your dog is small and is a big chewer, large pieces in their stomach may not break down. Lastly if your small dog is a powerful chewer they can develop teeth issues so please feed with caution
split antlers can be more splintery overtime and dogs can lose interest once the marrow is gone
Bourbon doesn’t show much interest, Whiskey picks it up once in awhile
We leave these out for chewing here and there
Warning- if your dogs are big powerful chewers they can splinter and cause issues
$20+
Bourbon/Whiskey forever
Boxes
Bourbon loves chewing on cardboard boxes so I let her have some (especially since during covid we are receiving so many packages and cardboard is free!) My only concern is that the chewing won’t stop once she gets older but I’m hoping after she finishes teething that she’ll be able to understand what is hers and what isn’t.
Stuffed Toys
I like to have some stuffed toys as options to clothing
Neither of my dogs are power chewers so my stuffed toys will eventually break but they tend to last a month so far
Bourbon likes to chew soft pillows/blankets so I prefer to teach her to go for a toy instead
Whiskey used to bite out of excitement when we came home so she’s trained to bring us a stuffed toy when we come home
Great to stuff with peanut butter and treats and freeze or just feed
Whiskey loves these but Bourbon doesn’t show as much interest so far so Whiskey just steals them
$8-22
Bourbon just doesn’t seem to want to work for her food, she’d rather take something easier, like a chair leg
Quado
The texture was something Bourbon really liked when she was in her sharkies stage (8 weeks-10 weeks) and she lost her crazy interest but will still play with these
