Tag: birds

  • Vizsla Basics: 101 Guide to Everything You Need to Know

    Vizsla Basics: 101 Guide to Everything You Need to Know

    Here’s the Vizsla basics, the Vizsla FAQs, the starting block, the page that answers questions about the Hungarian Vizsla you didn’t know you would be asking

    Breed: What is a Vizsla?

    Where is a Vizsla from?

    Vizslas originated from Hungary and is their national dog. They’re from the Magyar tribes, then owned by warlords and then the aristocracy (sometimes they’re called the Magyar Vizsla). The noble dog almost went extinct after civil and world wars and were thankfully saved and are now very popular with a devoted following in both Europe and North America (as well as Australia). Vizslas are one of the best pointer-retriever dogs that need to be part of the family and does not do well living in a kennel.

    What is a Vizsla a mix of?

    Vizslas are one of the oldest breeds and have actually been used in development of other breeds. Weimaraners, German Shorthaired Pointers, and many other breeds have had the Vizsla bloodlines to thank.

    Vizslas in show

    Can you get a miniature Vizsla?

    No, Vizslas are only recognized in one size and are bred to a standard. Here’s more information about the breed standard and what ethical breeders aim for. There are variations of course, and dogs that are larger or smaller in certain litters.

    What group does Vizslas belong to?

    Vizslas are part of the Sporting Group. Sporting dogs are well rounded companions. Vizslas are extremely versatile dogs that are used for hunting, various dog sports, rescue work, detection, and therapy. They are natural pointers and retrievers.

    Vizslas are bred to hunt, point and retrieve

    Are Vizslas hypoallergenic?

    No, in short they are not but they do not shed very much and their hair does not clump up in visible balls. Overall the breed does not produce a high amount of allergens compared to other breeds but some allergic people can tolerate these dogs.

    What size is a Vizsla? How much does a Vizsla weigh?

    Here’s a detailed blogpost I wrote about the size and weight of Vizslas

    Vizslas are beautiful dogs and a medium size, the smallest of the pointers

    What is the life expectancy of a Vizsla?

    Vizslas tend to live from 12-15 years. They’re overall a healthy breed, although this will vary depending on the breeder. Please find an ethical breeder that breeds for health (both physical and mental).

    How fast is a Vizsla?

    Vizslas have been said the be the second fastest breed (to greyhounds) depending on what you read. Individuals have been clocked at 40mph/65kmph! Vizslas are even faster than other breeds over uneven ground. No matter the exact speed and how they’ve been calculated, Vizslas are extremely fast dogs and have the endurance that greyhounds do not. This makes for great difficulty and can be dangerous if you do not have the ability to recall your dog. On the other hand, they’re wonderful for active runners, bikers, and hikers.

    Do Vizslas eyes stay blue? When do Vizslas eyes turn brown?

    No, Vizsla puppies are born with blue eyes that turn green, then finally amber. The full amber coloring may come quicker at 6 months or take up to 2 years. Ask your breeder about the parents and you might have a better idea of the timing although grown does also depend on the health of the dog.

    blue-green eyes will change to amber

    Vizsla Temperament

    Where do you buy a Vizsla? How do I get a Vizsla?

    Typically there are the choices of a breeder, or a rescue. I really don’t recommend a rescue unless you have experience with dogs, especially this breed if the rescue is showing behavioral issues. I do see rare cases of young Vizslas being given up because they are too energetic or senior Vizslas because they’re just no longer wanted. Well bred Vizslas should go back to their breeders to be rehomed but it’s not always the case. If you’d like a Vizsla puppy, a breeder would be where to look and here’s more on finding a breeder.

    Alpine Vizslas where I got my puppy from

    Do Vizslas bond to one person? Do they have a favorite person?

    I don’t typically see this as the case, although if one person is the main caretaker and trainer, it would be logical for the Vizsla to bond better with that person. It’s typical of the breed, and my own dogs to love people and for them to gravitate towards people, even strangers if they seem friendly.

    Do Vizslas fetch?

    Vizslas are bred to point and retrieve although not all puppies will have a natural fetch. Some may, and others might have to be taught. Whiskey did not naturally fetch but once I taught her, she became obsessed. Bourbon will only fetch when she thinks it’s her idea to play a game inside the house.

    Will my Vizsla run away?

    What is “running away”? Like most hunting breeds, Vizslas tend to have prey drive and are interested in tracking scents. They are friendly social dogs that do like to say hi to other people and other dogs and explore their environment. As an intelligent and energetic breed, Vizslas can get bored and lonely and find their fun elsewhere. Vizslas can also fixate on prey and chase deer, birds, or other prey for long distances. Lastly Vizslas are a sensitive breed that can have anxiety or be frightened if not properly socialized to sounds or events and run off to escape, or to find their owners if separated. So, yes there reasons that a Vizsla may leave you, it is a matter of understanding why, and mitigating the issues.

    Do Vizslas whine alot?

    Vizlsas are intelligent, opinionated, sensitive, and affectionate. If they are not receiving the attention or treats, or life that they feel like they need, they will inform you so. My two girls rarely whine, we have a communication between us that is clear and does not involve whining but if I encouraged it, I’m sure there would be much whining in the house!

    What food is best for a Vizsla? What should I feed my Vizsla?

    Food is such a hot topic! There is kibble (and a HUGE variety of quality and types), canned food, home-cooked, commercial raw food, and DYI raw food. There’s also lots of options in-between. My suggestion is to ask your breeder, your vet, experienced owners with a history of healthy dogs, canine dietitians and research scientifically peer reviewed papers. Lastly, know and see what works with your dog. If the poop is mush, if the coat is dull, skin is itchy, and the energy level low, there is a problem. Don’t feed something your dog does not digest well, even if it’s the most recommended food of the month. Feed what your dog does well on, what you can afford, and you can always throw in some healthy leftovers too!

    Food is very dependent on your personal decisions

    How long until Vizslas are grown adult dogs?

    Vizslas are pretty much physically fully grown at 1.5-2 years old. However, sometimes their brains take a bit longer to catch up. Some Vizslas take longer to mentally mature than others. My eldest Vizsla was a super mature puppy that had the temperament of a senior. My youngest Vizsla Bourbon is still puppy-brained at 2.5 years old (although sometimes she seems like an adult, other times she’s full puppy).

    What’s wrong with my Vizsla?

    Is my Vizsla depressed?

    Has there been a large change in your Vizsla’s temperament? If your habits have not changed, take stock of what may have changed. Vizslas are very sensitive to emotions and their environment and can pick up on changes you may not realize. If you’re certain nothing has changed but your Vizsla is not eating, low energy, shaking, or scared, or just not loving life like before, perhaps it’s time to go to the vet.

    Vizslas are very emotive

    Why does my Vizsla grumble?

    Vizlsas are intelligent, opinionated, sensitive, and very needy. They love to communicate their needs and wants and can sometimes be considered a very “human” dog. Look into their eyes and see their expressions and tell me you cannot tell what they’re thinking! Vizslas grumble and talk to communicate with you and others.

    Why is my Vizsla shaking?

    Assuming your Vizsla is not shivering (this breed only has one coat of hair so gets cold very quickly), there can be many reasons your dog is shaking. Fear is usually the most obvious one, followed by anxiety. Sensitive individuals will shake more than others. Bourbon, my youngest shakes all the time. She shakes when she’s scared (when there’s a loud BANG), when she anticipates something bad happening (when we go to do her nails), and when there’s too much pressure put on her and she is not comfortable (at a competition or at a new equipment). Bourbon’s also noticed that when she shakes, she gets love and attention from humans, so sometimes she shakes to avoid working, to get what she wants, and to manipulate strangers into liking her and giving her attention. This last point is not very typical of the breed, but it is my experience!

    Do Vizslas bite?

    Any dog can bite if cornered and pushed to it’s limits. Vizslas are not known as an aggressive breed that have bite issues however, but any anxious fearful dog that is abused or at it’s limits without other options (like running away) may potentially bite. Poorly bred Vizslas can have aggression in their bloodlines (I’ve known of several), and Vizslas that have had trauma and have been previously attacked can also bite.

    When do Vizslas stop chewing?

    Assuming we are speaking about puppy chewing, the sharkies usually end once the adult teeth have come in. Here’s a diary of my experience.

    How do I wear out my Vizsla?

    Vizslas are one of the most energetic breeds, so hopefully you have selected this breed because you wanted the energy! There’s usually two routes to go and much in-between. There is the physical route, where you can run your Vizsla, and the mental where you can train your Vizsla. Interestingly enough, my Vizslas tired out much quicker from engaging in mental training over physical. Of course there are lots of activities that bridge both, like agility, or search and rescue, so the options really are endless. My advice is to get two things done at once. If you need to tire a Vizsla out that is in recovery or injured, do some canine conditioning with target plates or wobble boards to increase strength at the same time. If you have a young healthy Vizsla, work on recall with a long line around other dogs, or people or even birds.

  • Ultimate Gear for Running with your Dog

    Ultimate Gear for Running with your Dog

    Waist leash

    There are lots of hands-free waist leashes around, but I find the simpler the better. I prefer the ones with a fast easy clip, lightweight, easy to wash, and quick to turn into a hand-leash. For dogs that chew, or larger dogs that lunge, make sure you get a thicker option with clips that withstand strength. There are many circumstances in which I only pull the waist leash out for a short road section on a trail run and want to be able to quickly clip it on and off.

    I also do not like leashes that are too long, because the longer the leash, the less control you have of the dog and the harder the yank if they try and race off. For longer runs, consider a Bungee leash with a bit of give, and for short sections where you need control, consider a shorter leash without stretch. The Ruffwear options have added in a secret poop bag pocket that has saved my butt a couple times!

    Collar leash

    These are wonderful! I love this on Whiskey because she heels offleash really well but I need a leash for very short sections (around the car, crossing roads, reactive dog, bear). This only works with a dog that has recall because the leash is short and around the dog’s neck. It’s also not good if you want to run with your dog on leash a long distance as it’s too short. This leash is ideal for short moments when you need a close ranging reliable dog in full control in seconds. You reach down and grab the handle and suddenly you have a dog on leash. Not only do you not have to carry a leash, but the size is a perfect traffic length and easy to reattach back.

    Harness

    I normally do not use harnesses for running. I run with my dogs mostly off-leash and I’ve taught them not to pull so they don’t strain their necks when I ask for a heel. However, there are times we run longer distances on leash and even a moderate strain on the neck is not ideal.

    For dogs that need to be on-leash or dogs that pull, or a dog that might need a lift, a harness is a great tool. The Ruffwear and Hurtta harnesses have worked well for us and our friends. I would look for a large ring to clip your dog on and off (with large rings you can do it even while running), for a harness that doesn’t chaffe, one your dog cannot slip out of, and something bright.

    Harness Pack

    Even better than a harness, if your dog is large enough, is a harness with small pockets to carry items like poop bags, keys, cards, treats, and….dog poop! Who better to carry the poop around than your dog? Ruffwear makes this harness that has small streamlined pockets that are perfect for runs and carrying small things.

    Drybag Poop

    One of the worst aspects of running with dogs is carrying and smelling dog poop on your entire run. Guess what? I’ve found the answer! The Puppouch is a drybag that keeps everything airtight (and watertight). For a better experience, throw it in your dog’s pack and you don’t even have to think about it. The only issue is forgetting about the bags until your next run! That’s right, the poop is so airtight you won’t ever smell it until you take it out again so just don’t forget about it!

    Lights

    Running in the winter or at night (our winters have the sun setting at 3pm sometimes) needs headlamps and dog lights. Even if your dog just runs at your side, dog lights are a courtesy to everyone else that might be on a trail. It can be super scary to hear or see movement on a trail and not know it’s a dog. It’s also great to have different colors for different dogs so you can see whom is whom (and you’re not yelling at the wrong dog). I absolutely recommend dog lights for anyone taking off leash dogs outside in low light. The collars are better than single LED lights because you can see the light from all angles otherwise the dog light can disappear as your dog rotates.

    Human dog hat

    Running with Dogs Hat


    The perfect running hat, lightweight, crushable, quick dry, airy, and washable. The best part? It comes with an option with you chasing a your dog, or your dog chasing you. Which is more accurate? You decide! In addition you’re support this blog and all my work here if you get anything from my shop 🙂 Please take a look!

    Waterbowl

    This has been the lightest, yet waterproof waterbowl I’ve found. It’s small but it does the job and it’s tiny fitting into any crevice or pocket.

    Musher’s Wax/ Boots

    Assuming you’re not taking your dog running when the pavement is much too hot, you might still need some protective coating on dog paws that may run raw, or over short hot spots. Wax can help a dogs’ paws providing relief and a protective coating. For longer periods, injury, or hot pavement, dog boots may be needed. I’ve got an extended post on winter dog boots, but as we do not run on hot pavement in the summer, I don’t have experience on the summer dog boot options (although some of the winter dog boots are also good for summer).

    Cooling Dog Vest

    To help dogs that overheat in warm weather, cooling vests and bandanas can be helpful. I sometimes carry cooling bandanas in my running pack for my girls on warmer days, or I might drench their ears and paws during water breaks. Cooling vests should be a light color and keep the dog cool for longer than a bandana, however, keep watch for when the vests dry out and if your dog is still too warm. Cooling paws, ears, and throat can help during the run, but please do not go out if your dog is struggling. A cooling harness combines harness and vest. Just keep extra water when there isn’t water sources and avoid the heat if at all possible.

    Hi Visibility Jacket

    In areas and trails where you may be passing by others, close to roads, or in lands where others may be hunting, it is helpful to make sure your dog is easily visible. On rainy days, or in locations where my dogs blend in, I make sure I choose jackets that stand out so that people can see them from a distance and understand quickly they are dogs, not coyotes or bears. Choose a jacket or harness that stands out against your dog’s color with reflective fabrics.

    Visibility vest

    Running System

    Because a dog pulling for a length of time on your waist will not be efficient or painless, a way to distribute the pull would be from a proper belt. To take it another step forwards you would be then going onto a full pulling system and become a canicross team. The belts help distribute the pull into your whole body and a proper harness system will reduce the yank. This is quite different than waist belts where you want your dog to run beside you, these belts have your dog running in front.

  • I Hate My Vizsla- Suggestions and Solutions

    I Hate My Vizsla- Suggestions and Solutions

    Do you hate your Vizsla? Think you made a mistake? Guess what? It’s one of my most searched Vizsla terms and it’s not uncommon.

    First, please ask your breeder for help and see if there are any genetic issues at play. Next, make sure your dog is healthy and there are no health issues (dogs will pee in the house or become aggressive have an infection, or are in pain for example). Outside of that, here are some common issues:

    Peeing Everywhere

    Do you have a fresh puppy that just pees inside? Maybe you take her outside for half an hour to potty and she just goes as soon as you get inside? Or maybe it’s raining outside and there’s absolutely no way anything will happen outside? There’s a ton of videos and writeups about how to housetrain a puppy but what you really need is patience. This rare commodity seems extremely unlikely as you spray buckets full of odor remover, buy paper towels in Costco amounts and stand outside in the rain for 30mins at 2am with an umbrella because your puppy just will *not* go.

    It gets better. The description was Whiskey when we lived in an apartment and I had to run down the apartment 3x a night, in the rain, in my PJs. It felt like it took forever while other puppies never had a mistake at home. We had the bell, I would stand with treats, being very boring until she went, and celebrated every time. But guess what? It still took 3 months but since then, there’s never been a mistake. You’re not alone! But it’s a stage that does pass.

    Bourbon with the spray and wipes that we needed

    Puppy Sharkies

    This is the biggest complaint! So many people think they’ve made the biggest mistake when they bring home the cutest puppy imaginable only for that puppy to turn into a shark. It’s called the sharkies when they bite, rip, and attack all moving things with their sharp puppy teeth and ruin shirts, jewelry, furniture, other dogs, and your own skin.

    It’s not an understatement to say sharkies HURT! You wonder why you ever thought this was a good idea, and if they’ll just “grow out of it”. Also, a sharp scream and pulling your hand back whining (to show you are hurt) doesn’t seem to stop the devil. In fact, screams and loud NOs seem to urge the little monster to attack even more!

    Puppies are SO cute but the devil sometimes

    Diverting those sharp teeth to a toy or chew is essential for your survival. I had a bunch of different textured toys and soft chews all over my house, ready to pick up and exchange for my arm. As soon as the teeth touched skin while we played, I would replace with a toy. Play with your puppy using your toys, not your hands! One of the best chew toys are cardboard boxes leftover from Amazon orders. Your house may look like a mess but you’ll save your clothing, furniture, and skin.

    Leaving the litter too soon may also make it harder for your puppy to have a softer mouth when playing. Littermates help puppies learn what is acceptable, as well as older puppy-friendly dogs. Whiskey was really instrumental in helping Bourbon learn what is appropriate play and what was not. If your Vizsla puppy has had enough play, and still insists on attacking you, you have to teach them to settle (self control, and learning their “off” button).

    Inability to Settle Inside

    Does your Vizsla have an off switch? Does your dog just go go go zooming around the house, destroying toys, clothes, and furniture along the way? Maybe he’s running laps jumping off the walls and attacking your other dogs?

    Not all breeds can easily do this, but Vizslas have a genetic predisposition to have an off switch. Herding dogs must stay with their herd and be on guard and protect at all times, so shepherd dogs do not easily switch off. However, Vizslas should be able to settle and the younger you teach them, the easier your life will be. Vizslas were bred to run and hunt, but also to lay around when they weren’t working. You need to teach your dog they are not hunting and it’s time to turn off.

    Settling just fine, FINALLY

    First off, your dog must be tired. If they’ve just woken up and haven’t had a walk or time to play, you’re not going to have too much luck asking them to go back to sleep. Make sure they’ve had enough training, off leash running, and playing before you ask them to settle. For puppies, hold them tight with a calming demeanor, breathing slowly and soothing them to relax. This can take 3mins to half an hour or more the first time. Humming or calm music can help but the key is you must be relaxed and transfer that over. Over time, your dog should calm down, maybe sigh deeply, and relax their muscles. Let them go calmly once you feel the relaxation. Even if your puppy energizes up again, you can repeat the process until they fall asleep or change their energy.

    Older dogs may need crates as it can be much harder to hold a bigger dog. Only let them out once they are calm, and once you are calm too! Your demeanor makes a huge difference. Play some calming music and make sure no one goes near or touches the crate to set them off. Cover the crate to shut out the world and makes sure that it’s comfortable and welcoming. If a chew toy doesn’t energize your dog, you can try one. Do not use a crate as a punishment, but see it as their own safe space to learn to relax. Make sure you let your pups out once they’ve calmed down.

    Destruction and Aggression

    Is your Vizsla dog aggressive? People aggressive? Does he destroy your shoes and clothing? Is he growling at your kids or if you touch her when she’s sleeping?

    Bourbon running away

    Aggression is more serious depending on the severity and issue. For this, get a good trainer that follows the latest techniques and is well respected by other trainers. Even just one session to help you understand the source of issues and a beginning to how to fix some.

    Aggression can come in many forms, and sometimes it is not aggression but lack of exercise or direction. It would be much too hard to diagnose online so please seek help! Sometimes aggression is also genetic as I’ve known backyard breeders or unethical breeders breeding dogs with known aggression. There are many tools to help, but it does take time and effort and lots of patience and understanding.

    Not listening, doesn’t come back

    Goodbye Bourbon

    We’ve all been through it, screaming and yelling and your dog clearly hears you but doesn’t come back. So you yell louder, and more seriously. GET BACK HERE NOW!!!! Unfortunately, recall isn’t taught by screaming louder and louder (who would want to run back to someone screaming like a maniac?).

    Recall is hard. It takes time and it’s made harder and harder with distractions, prey, and distance. I’ve written a whole blogpost about recall, aiming specifically for off leash outdoors. There’s also a challenge to practice with if you’ve got a reliable recall in most situations.

    Jumping on people, dogs

    Does your dog jump up on people? Does he jump on kids, bikes, and tackle other dogs? Maybe she’s extra friendly and likes to meet people face to face? As cute as it can be, it can also be dangerous with the wrong people, kids, or dogs.

    Jumping up on command

    There’s a couple things that can help with constant jumping.

    First off, don’t encourage jumping. If it’s cute when you enter the house and you reward with attention and playing, a dog will get very confused if you then yell at them when they jump on a friend or a child entering the house. Cut out any rewards for jumping, ever. Reward for 4 paws staying on the ground. Greet your dog only when they’re on the ground and reward (treats and attention) for that.

    Next, have a command to jump, and a command to get down. I have UP UP and OFF. I reward for the OFF. Soon you’ll be able to anticipate a jump and yell OFF to keep all four paws on the ground. Jumping is fun, so reward for OFF.

    Recall, when you do see your dog go after a child or bike when you’re outside. Work your way up to this recall by training with a friend. Start with slow moving close bikes, the easiest scenario and treat treat treat! Work with a long leash that you can step on if they go to run or jump. Train on the outside fence to a playground and work on keeping calm and all 4 paws on the ground. Work on recall with kids running (on the other side of the fence). Here’s more about recall.

    Sensitive and Scared

    Does your dog hide behind you? Maybe she won’t play with others, or maybe she shuts down easily and won’t come and play and cuddle? Maybe he barks when he gets scared and then runs away when there’s a loud noise?

    It’s no fun having a dog that won’t engage and play but the sooner you work on their confidence, the easier it will be! Vizslas are a sensitive breed and are more prone to shutting down due to punishments than other dogs (like labs). They’re more sensitive to emotions, to loud noises, physical trauma, and challenges. While Whiskey, my elder, is very confident, she’s also very sensitive to emotions. Bourbon is very sensitive to anything she deems “scary” and will shut down with dogs that are too physical, and gets traumatized easily with a bad experience.

    My derpy sensitive puppy

    Having a sensitive dog can be great. They will pick up when you’re sad and act appropriately and will be aware of surroundings and people. However, too scared and sensitive can lead to anxieties and bolting. You’ll have to work on your dog’s confidence so they can approach a challenge, try something scary, and be proud when they’ve overcome an obstacle with your help.

    First, if you have a scared dog, use positivity. You must approach with patience and encouragement, no screaming in frustration or plunking them down into something so scary they shut down. Positive reinforcement is key. Then work out the smallest micro-steps you can take to reaching more confidence in whatever is scary. Scared of dogs? Find the most placid older dog that doesn’t mind puppies and doesn’t approach, and go for a short walk with LOTS of treats. Noises? turn the TV on low and slowly increase while feeding peanut butter.

    It can be extremely helpful to take some puppy or dog obedience classes in a controlled environment (with a very respected trainer) with lots of treats and positive reinforcement. If the issue is larger and your dog already has anxiety, work with a trainer one on one and see what you can do everyday to take baby steps. I found dog sports as well to really with connection and overcoming challenges. Training agility with Bourbon has helped her many fears and we’ve been taking micro-steps to approaching and touching a teeter tooter.

    Other reasons you hate your Vizsla?

    What are other reasons your Vizsla is terrible? There is hope and help! They’re the cutest puppies but this breed is not for everyone. Vizslas take more time, emotional space, and training that most other breeds, but be assured that whatever you put into them, you get back x10.

    Guilty puppy eyes
  • What’s better? Males vs Female Vizsla Dogs

    What’s better? Males vs Female Vizsla Dogs

    Trying to choose between getting a female or male puppy? Or just wondering if there’s any difference at all really? I’m no expert (ask your breeder to start!) but here’s a couple things I’ve found over the years.

    Bourbon next to her mom and Brother Rudy

    Physical differences

    The obvious difference is males tend to be slightly taller and larger and of course have anatomical differences. It’s really important I be able to carry my own dog for long periods of time, so for me a smaller dog is very beneficial, however I don’t know this is a concern for most people.

    I need to be able to carry my dogs up ladders and if injured

    Males will tend to mark as well as hump more than females. My Whiskey loves to mark just as much as males, although overall you’ll see this behavior in males more. Humping can also occur in both sexes although it will happen more with male dogs. On the other hand, I know with proper training you can keep dogs from humping, and some unneutered males do not hump or mark.

    Another obvious difference is that unspayed female dogs will go into heat once or twice a year and this can be inconvenient, especially if you have a male dog, or your dog goes to daycare. It’s not been a huge issue for me, and there are solutions like an OSS spay that can keep hormones while preventing pregnancy.

    Bourbon with her fancy panties

    Emotional

    There’s something I keep hearing about Vizslas “Girls love you, and the boys fall IN love with you”. I can see where this comes from, and the differences overall. You cannot really speak to a specific individual but there’s definitely differences overall, just like humans.

    Vizslas love their humans

    Vizslas will all love their humans. They’re velcro dogs that seek human attention and love and want to touch and be with you all day long. Both my girls (and other Vizslas that come live with me) follow me from room to room, and I’m never alone in the bathroom. They all think they’re lap dogs, and they will love snuggle and cuddle.

    However, as much as female Vizslas love to be on your lap and under the desk or behind the chair with you, male Vizslas will love you so hard they’ll be on top of your head. Males will bounce so exuberantly they’ll tackle you with their love, and they’ll want not only to touch you, they want to be part of you. Males are just very enthusiastic and unfiltered and everything is straight from their feelings and into their legs.

    Risky business on cliffs, especially with birds and chipmunks

    Hiking, Working, Dog Sports

    Male dogs in general have less caution when it comes to risk taking, or just thinking about consequences. This is a part of why I chose females. Males tend to run and jump without thinking, without looking at what is on the other side. If they see something move, they will be more likely to run and chase rather than sniffing and thinking. This translates to more dangerous on cliffs with birds, more chance of injury on steep drop-offs or technical hikes, and more chances of making bad decisions with bears and porcupine. Overall I’ve seen many more males quilled and with injuries from running into things than females.

    Another thing to think about, is females tend more to be thinkers, doing things on their own terms. They can be more emotional, opinionated and manipulative. This can be harder for competitions and training if your dog is more prone to doing things on their own terms, depending on the current alignment of stars. Male dogs and Vizslas are less emotional and less prone to emotional swings. For dog sports, males can be bolder and more aggressive attacking new obstacles or challenges.

    So many Vizslas

    Please do keep in mind that these are very generalized statements and each dog is different. While Whiskey is very reliable, fearless, and driven, Bourbon can be quite emotional, tentative and a thinker. However, it can actually be easier to run Bourbon in agility as she’s more accurate about her motions and less aggressive at just attacking whatever she sees in the arena vs actually listening to commands.

    Socialization

    Depending on what you’re looking for (or not looking for) Male dogs are generally more interested in meeting other dogs, more drawn to roaming in an attempt to find a mate. Although Bourbon roams extremely far, she doesn’t go and greet dogs along the way, however I know many long ranging Vizsla males that will go and say hello to others. I personally really like how my females keep to themselves and for the most part we have no problem with other dogs that want to pick a fight or are reactive or anxious. On the other side, they’re both less playful than males, and more standoffish to others on walks.

    Social lives of Vizslas

    Because male dogs are more social, without proper training and socialization they can be more prone to get into fights with strangers. I’ve known too many unneutered male Vizslas that have gotten attacked by neutered male dogs, or just more dominance fights. I feel like this is mainly an issue in North America where most dogs are neutered and many are not socialized properly but it’s definitely a trend.

    Females will still fight, but I think there’s less chances of a stranger random off-leash dog attacking a female, than a male. However, two females in a house that are battling for top dog will be much more vicious and fierce. Males posture more, females are serious when they actually do fight.

    Girls or Boys get the one best for your home

    In Conclusion

    Consider your lifestyle and what other dogs you have in your household. What is most important to you? I wanted a dog I could lift, a dog that would ignore others, one that wouldn’t chase chipmunks off a cliff or chase a bear, and one that didn’t mark up my home. Whiskey was an alpha female and I still introduced another female into my home because I was confident that as much as Whiskey was top dog, she would not be aggressive and would be a good leader for a puppy to follow.

    Much more important than male or female, get yourself a good breeder that’s breeding good genes, healthy, with no aggression and a lovely temperament. Meet the parents and as many other Vizslas as you can and find and train yourself the perfect companion.

  • Guide to a well-dressed Dog: Vizsla Jackets and Sweaters

    Guide to a well-dressed Dog: Vizsla Jackets and Sweaters

    Are you confused with the amount of options of canine jackets and sweaters available on the market? Or maybe you’ve tried several and find nothing fits your skinny long dog properly? There is such a variety of dog breeds from short and stout to long and lean and unless your dog magically fits the “standard” size it can be hard to find something that fits and stays on an athletic crazy running machine. We’ve tried so many different options and this is what I’ve learned.

    Velcro vs Buckles vs Zippers

    This is a big point of difference in choosing a jacket. Ideally you find a jacket with the least amount of connection/adjustment points. This can be counterintuitive as the more adjustment points, the easier it is to get a good fit right? Perhaps, they’re more adjustable, however these jackets will rub more, and will also come off easier with an active playing dog. Jackets with 3-5 Velcro panels are the bane of my existence. They look awful and these panels will come off easily over time.

    Velcro is great for easy of use and quickness, for fitting different dogs without adjustment, and for not rubbing or chaffing on the pup. The downside to Velcro is that it can come off with thick brush, with deep snow collecting, and with rough play. Velcro also degrades with use, especially the cheaper Velcro (there’s a huge difference in quality) so make sure that Velcro jackets are high quality if you want them to last.

    Buckles solve alot of Velcro issues such as inadvertently coming off after rubbing past bush, or a dog pulling the panel with play. Buckles snap easily and can adjust with straps. Sometimes buckles are used in conjunction with Velcro for the best of both worlds. The problem with Buckles is that they don’t have a clean profile, they can rub or get in the way with harnesses, and they’re a small point of connection so jackets have to be structured well in order for them not to unravel or lose shape.

    Zippers are a very clean look and connect a large panel of fabric together. They’re wonderful not coming apart or wearing out, however they are not adjustable so the fit has to be somewhat perfect for only a zipper to be used in a jacket

    Finally, there are jackets and sweaters that do not have any attachment points and depend on the jacket fitting perfectly to the dog to not fall off. I love these the best, but they are the hardest to find and fit as your dog grows and changes!

    Fit for skinny dogs- length vs chest

    Fitting jackets on different shaped dogs are difficult. I find most of the mass produced clothing fit a stout, somewhat rounder and and shorter dog than mine. I’ve had to find specialty dog clothing to fit my Vizslas, or just accept that the length will be shorter and the stomach panel barely covering. These jackets usually twist on the dogs as they run, or leave their backs and stomach open to the elements.

    Here’s a list of dog companies that make long/skinny/lean dog jackets, many of these are custom

    Voyagers K9 Apparel

    Our most used rain jackets and winter jackets come from this brand. They are breed-specific fits and are easy-on easy off with Velcro. There are two Velcro straps which really help keep the jacket on crazy dogs and it’s great quality (I have much experience with sewing and Velcro). The fleece is also very high quality and extra thick. No matter the amount of washing these jackets have gone through, they haven’t seemed to degrade.

    Voyagers is run by an American family with the mother sewing all the jackets and they can be custom to your own dog for an extra fee. There can be added harness holes and custom shapes for an oddly shaped dog. Although puppy teeth and barbed wire will tear the fabric, it holds up much better than other cheaper jackets. *wash these jackets with tech wash

    K9 Voyagers winter jacket

    Chillydogs.ca

    These jackets (the standard option) fit Vizslas perfectly. They also have long and lean (greyhounds) and another cut for short and broad dogs (Bullies). The jackets use both buckles and Velcro, and are quick to put on, never coming off because of the buckle. The winter option covers the front of the chest and has a fleece-lined shell for added wearability. The neck is a bit shorter and less thick fleece than Voyagers but there is the chest panel and buckle. I find the Alpine Blazer to be a great all-round jacket for those days that aren’t too cold, or too wet but just chilly enough to need a jacket.

    Chillydogs Great White North Winter Dog Coat
    Chillydogs Alpine Blazer

    Hurtta

    Hurtta is a company from Finland that have recently expanded to North America. They have some really interesting products that I haven’t seen elsewhere. I especially love the Eco line that uses 100% recycled polyester fabric. Not all Hurtta jackets fit skinny/lean/hairless dogs well but the ones that do are keepers!

    Hurtta’s Expedition Parka was made especially for lean dogs without undercoats like Vizslas. The fabric hugs the dogs (vs a shell that leaves so much air between jacket and muscles) and includes adjustment points as well as a snow trap on the neck that really keeps heat in. There’s a fully chest panel, and the jacket is coated with water wicking properties (not fully waterproof but fine with snow). The jackets use only one buckle but stay in place really nicely.

    Another jacket I love and use is the Extreme Overall. This one is the warmest one-piece clothing I have for the dogs. It’s good for about -15 (once it gets to -20 for 5 hours we switch to layers). The overalls take a bit of time to put the dogs in, but there’s many adjustment points and they fit the dogs well.

    Vizsla Tea

    This is the only brand I haven’t tried but I would recommend if you’re in Europe. I’ve heard good things and they’re made specifically for the Vizsla breed.

    K9topcoat

    I’ve more recently been using K9Top Coat in the winters. Because of our wet and cold climate, we’ve been using the Weatherproof Bodysuit that has the most water-repellency. I haven’t tried the other suits they make, but there are lots of options for dogs that have allergies, injuries, etc. The weatherproof suits have fitted my Vizslas very well (cut the legs off higher or they will snowball). They’re perfect for layering underneath jackets and for camping.

    Bravehound/Redbarkshop

    If style is what you’re looking for, look no further than Bravehound. These are custom made with Vizslas in mind. I sell them in my shop with the measurements taken from 100s of Vizslas in 5 sizes. The sweaters are hand-knit and stretch perfectly as the dog breathes and runs.

    I’ve never been able to find a sweater that actually fit the length of a Vizsla and stretched nicely over their chests so I started bringing these in for sale. There’s a hole for a collar, and my oldest sweater is still lasting nicely, although these aren’t for rough play or running through the bush (They’ve survived all that, but I try not to!). Also machine washable (all the jackets on this list are!), and finally 100% wool.

    There’s also a more fitted vest for sports in the winter and keep the dogs warm. The Bravehound wool gilet is zippered and allows for easy sprinting while keeping the dogs warm (perfect for Cross Country Skiing).

    Bravehound Technical Gilet Vest

    Threadzntails

    You cannot find better fitting onesies (and other shapes) as these are made custom to your dog’s size. They even have matching human hoodies if that’s your thing! Everything is custom to exactly what you want, including collar style, legs, stomach paneling (girls and boys), and fabric type and color or design. For the customization I think the pricing is extremely fair. Since there are no zippers or Velcro, these are very easy to wear, but take a bit of time to slip on. I have friends that are addicted to getting these as they’re so fun to design yourself.

    Puppies

    I think I found this jacket for $8 in the clearance bin and it was just fine for puppy Whiskey

    For puppies I always suggest getting something second-hand to last for the first half-year. The jackets I recommend are not cheap, and unless you want to splurge (or have an ongoing amount of puppies in your household) it may not be money well spent. Puppies also have shark-teeth and are pretty unforgiving in their playing and tumbling so it can be best to wait until after they stop shredding everything in sight. Whiskey had a cheap $8 jacket that was torn and handed down to someone else after she outgrew it.

    Price and Longevity

    As with most things, you tend to get what you pay for. I’ve tried the cheaper mass-produced clothing out there and as well as being poorly fitted, they do not last very long. Whiskey isn’t a hard playing dog, but we’ve ripped several jackets and worn out the Velcro in others. Other times the jackets with tiny stomach panels (many just have a strap) cause the jacket to fall to one side and just get trampled or torn. I love jackets that last, fit perfectly, and look great!

    Rain and Waterproofness

    Voyagers k9 has the most waterproof jacket in the market

    I find most jackets that are “waterproof” or “weatherpoof” will not actually keep a dog dry for 3 hours in a downpour, or wet snowfall. Now, I’m assuming most people do not take their dogs in drenching conditions hiking, but it’s a really good way to test waterproofness in dog jackets. The most waterproof Dog Jacket we’ve found is the Voyagers K9 Apparel. They’re the only ones that have stood up to pouring conditions and are still fully waterproof years later.

    Since I take out multiple dogs at a time, I will use all the jackets I have, and Voyagers consistently keeps the dog dry compared to others. However, nothing will keep Bourbon warm and dry when she jumps in and swims after ducks in the winter… I also highly suggest keeping your jackets (no matter the brand) clean and using a proper “tech” wash to clean the jackets and keep them as waterproof as possible

    Snow and ice

    Whiskey “swimming” in powder

    You make think any jacket that is warm should be fine in the snow, however I’ve found some are much better than others. If snow is going to touch the jacket, it can collect inside (especially those with dogs that like to swim in snow) and it can also cling to certain fabrics, and with body warmth, melt, then turn into ice. There are certain pieces that can freeze up and ice over rubbing the dogs as they run.

    Anything with a stomach panel, especially one that covers the front of the stomach will collect snow with a swimming dog. An example is the Hurtta Expedition Parka. As much as I love this jacket, if Bourbon runs through deep snow, the snow will collect and stay in the chest, and then melt and hold iceballs next to her stomach. The Chillydogs winter jacket is similar in this way. This isn’t a problem for running around in packed snow, leashed walks, and dogs that don’t enjoy swimming.

    I’ve also noticed the Hurtta Overalls legs get icy, as well as the k9topcoat weatherproof bottom legs get iced up. The best option I’ve found for cold legs that need coverage is using the backcountry gaiters.

    Citywear and Loungewear

    It can look ridiculous but these dogs do get cold and sweaters or onesies are really amazing! They’re wonderful underlayers, and great if you keep your dogs in a cold car for competitions or roadtrips, for car camping in the winter, cold cabin days, or just an on-leash walk in the city. Perhaps you have a calmer senior dog that chills quickly with arthritis, have a dog recovering from injury, or a dog that refuses to potty when it’s cold outside? A warm sweater or jacket can be wonderful!

    Lifejackets for Dogs

    There are not too many companies that make dog lifejackets, but here’s a couple to check out.

    Ruffwear – Our favorite that we’re currently using, easy adjustments, hidden straps. The biggest selling point is the front strap, where most jackets are thin and can come out of place, Ruffwear has a thicker front band and the strap doesn’t chafe

    Hurtta – I have not tried but I trust this company

    Outward Hound – A lower price point, I just don’t love the strap system, but works great

    Kurgo – I haven’t tried this one, but Kurgo is a well trusted brand

    Dog Life Jackets are really area dependent (where you can buy them) but I would advise for less straps flapping around and more coverage, You want to be able to lift your dog in any position from the handle and not have your dog fall out or chafe. It’s also really helpful to have a leash attachment point. Since your dog’s life may depend on the life jacket working, I wouldn’t get something cheap off Amazon.

    I’m not sure this brand as I borrowed this lifejacket but it kept Bourbon safe!

    Hunting/protective

    I don’t have much information on protective wear for hunting but guess who does… Accidental BirdDog! Her blog posts have loads of information on hunting and this one covers some protective clothing for hunting dogs.

    Layering- protective and cold

    Whiskey has k9topcoat tights underneath and Bourbon has Backcountry Gaiters as well as Expedition Parka

    We are masters at layering! Hiking in the mountains, and backcountry camping involves adjusting and changing to the weather. I normally carry a couple pieces of clothing for the dogs when we are backcountry camping and layer as needed. Sometimes in the winter, we will start on a warm day and the clouds and snow and wind will come in on the peak and I’ll have to redress the girls right on the trail in order for them to survive.

    Do not be shy from layering, even if it looks ridiculous. I typically like a onesie/tights underneath a warm jacket, and some sort of boots if needed. Dog Googles are great if the wind really picks up and starts shooting snow at your face. If you can barely open your eyes in the wind, your dog will appreciate googles (but these do take training to wear).

  • RELIABLE RECALL CHALLENGE: Can your dog do this?

    Here’s a list of recall challenges from easy to hard. If you’re struggling with what to do next in your recall training, this might give you an idea about how to move forwards. Actively seek challenges after your dog has a reliable recall when it is safe! Make sure you reward reward reward, and never yell or punish your dog when they come to you (even if it’s taking a VERY long time). There’s a load of resources online about how to reward your pup for recall so make sure you’ve got a basic recall before you can challenge.

    Can you recall your dog from…

    1. A dog approaching on leash
    2. Approaching something tasty on the ground (that they would normally eat)
    3. A dog approaching and staring straight at your dog
    4. A human approaching offering treats
    5. Birds/Squirrels at a distance (after your dog sees it)
    6. An offleash dog approaching slowly
    7. An offleash dog approaching quickly and staring at your dog
    8. While your dog is eating something tasty on the ground (after your dog has taken a lick)
    9. A human your dog knows and likes
    10. A dog your dog knows and likes
    11. Larger prey animal like Deer, Racoon, Cats, Porcupine
    12. Predators like Bears, Coyotes
    13. A human dressed in black, during dusk/dawn
    14. A human stalking dressed in black, during dusk/dawn, on your property
    15. A strange dog on your property
    16. Someone feeding your dog treats

  • Why a Vizsla is the Wrong Dog Breed for You

    Why a Vizsla is the Wrong Dog Breed for You

    Vizsla’s aren’t the sort of dog that’s good for everyone, they aren’t the “best” family dog, nor the dog that fits into every situation. Contrary to my entire website and life, I find myself discouraging many people I talk to in the dog park from getting a Vizsla “because they’re so pretty what’s the breed?”. It’s totally false advertising when they see a calm Vizsla heeling at my side downtown, ignoring other dogs and squirrels and posing for the camera. I just happen to have an oddity, that I poured hundreds of hours into training, and that has been out hiking 4 times already this week. Bourbon’s a better example…except she’s either not visible on trails because she’s elsewhere, or she’s wrapping herself around the legs of a stranger all cute and noodley. They don’t see all the time, energy and money spent!

    Very pretty dogs, can work against them if they bought just for looks

    The Good Stuff

    The problem with Vizslas, is that upon appearance (if they are standing still enough to see, or by photographs on the internet) they look amazing. They’re gorgeous, short haired, don’t smell much, look sweet tempered, and a very reasonable size. A quick Google search will tell you Vizslas are gentle natured, loyal, friendly, versatile, and eager to please. So what’s not to like? Why are Vizslas not the next Labs or Golden Retrievers fit for any family?

    The (potentially) Bad Stuff

    Breeders get hundreds of emails a week during Covid…so it will be very hard to find a good one

    It’s hard to even buy a good one

    First off, Vizslas are prone to Epileptic seizures, skin allergies, cancers, and other disorders. It’s not more than the typical breed, but if you don’t find a reputable breeder that screens for these issues, you could have a sick dog. Finding breeders and getting a puppy (especially in less than 2 years) is extremely difficult and most people do not want to wait this long, or do so much homework, send so many emails and phone calls just to buy a dog. Going the less reputable direction can buy you a dog with a huge variety of issues that are screened by ethical breeders. I’ve seen this happen time and time again, and it’s so sad to see an early death, sick puppy, and dangerous behavioural issues.

    Goodbye Bourbon! After 8 days of continuous backcountry hiking, she was good to keep going!

    The energy level is not ideal for most

    Most people’s life does not allow for 2 hour walks outside, hunting, running their dog in an agility ring, or spending so much time centered around their dog. Between a job, kids, social engagements, travel, there are few people that would be ok walking their dog for hours outside, even when it’s raining, even in the winter, even after work in the dark. Vizslas are high energy dogs that love to use their brains, learn new things, and are extremely versatile in work they can do. The key is WORK. They love having a job, pleasing their human, and doing well at their jobs. It’s like the A+ student at the front of the class, hands up to answer every question, on speed. These dogs want to run, sniff, do things or they can be destructive when bored. They’re not ideal if you like a calm household, expect order, and your children aren’t the rough and tumble sort.

    Bird dogs want to hunt for birds and will hunt regardless of your own preferences
    Bourbon can become deaf if she’s chasing birds. She’ll run for hours until you can catch her!

    A hunting dog wants to hunt

    If you’re a hunter, wonderful! But if you don’t hunt and you get a hunting dog, please expect your dog to want to hunt things. If you’re not interested in a dog that sniffs out dead animals, stalks pigeons, and shakes with excitement at every squirrel in the park, then this can get frustrating. They’re bred to respond to hunt and find prey so this might not be ideal for lots of people. The ability can be aimed at work (sniff work for example) or you might take your dog out to hunt tests, but if you’d like your dog to walk on leash calmly on a hiking trail near a bird sanctuary…you have hundreds of hours of training to do.

    Vizslas love sitting on their humans, being with their humans and touching them

    Velcro is not an exaggeration- Separation anxiety

    Vizslas are known as Velcro dogs and although many of my own friends are dog lovers, they don’t really want a dog glued to them at all times. Some like to go to the bathroom alone, take a shower without someone checking up on them, and some others would like to work without a dog in their chair. It’s very typical for Vizslas to wake themselves up and follow you from room to room just be close to you. If “personal space” is something you treasure…this is not the right breed!

    To further the point, this breed needs humans to be close and if you’re not around much, can develop separation anxiety. They’re not an independent breed that will be fine without you. Leave a Vizsla outside in a backyard and you’ll see them staring at you on the other side of the glass door wanting you to be out there with them. A backyard will do you no good unless you’re having fun with them outside.

    Bourbon in no less than 3 layers for a 6 hour hike in the cold. I had to carry extra layers in case

    Short-haired and Climate

    Vizslas have very short hair and only one coat so if your climate is colder, the breed may not be ideal. These are indoor dogs, not outdoors and cannot survive in low temperatures like double-coated dogs. I constantly need to bring jackets, boots, and more if we are going for long 5+ hour adventures in weather that may not be ideal. They can hate the rain, and shiver miserably, and can have a hard time retrieving in icy cold waters, especially for a length of time.

    Boots and jackets are not needed for huskies in conditions like these

    Time and Energy needed

    More than most breeds, Vizslas are a bit like tiny humans in that they take TIME and ENERGY. They’ll give you back so much love, but you need to put in the time and energy first. They demand it, and you will see this under no uncertain terms. They’re very needy dogs, with lots of feelings and emotions and love to hear your voice. They love to be pampered with blankets and pillows and attention. Whiskey will interrupt me at work, insistently asking for me to just stare into her eyes and love on her. Bourbon will sit and whine until I tend to her emotional needs.

    Sensitive to a fault

    Have you ever met anyone that seemed to take things you said the wrong way? Maybe your tone of voice or wording and they were instantly hurt? There are some dogs that people can yell at and train pretty harshly without too much trauma but Vizslas can shut down quickly. Bourbon is quick to frighten and remembers every tiny thing forever. I’ve seen so many Vizslas scream and shake and cower after receiving a bump or nip from another dog where most dogs might recover in a couple seconds. I’ve had Vizslas limp over to me, totally distressed with a hanging paw and I’ve had to ‘pretend’ to look them over, kiss their limp paw and tell them they’re ok. And then off they run full speed and ‘recovered’.

    The sensitivity can also show up in food sensitivities or drama when not feeling well. Whiskey was SUCH a picky eater with tummy problems when she was younger. When she got giardia (diarrhea and vomiting) and I brought her to the vet and because she was being so dramatic the vet thought she was much worse than she actually was. Her heartbeat was too slow, she was shaking (emotional) and hiding underneath my chair in a ball. There’s alot of managing emotions that might not be as big an issue with other dogs.

    Stamina and speed

    Vizslas were bred to run fast, and run long. They can keep up with horseback and go all day. Perhaps you don’t want a dog that recovers from a 25km run in a couple hours, or a puppy that just *never* goes to sleep. There were so many times I would drive out 2 hours for a hike, hike 6 hours, and drive back. By the time I got home, Whiskey was ready to go again, and I still hadn’t unpacked my hiking bag! Stamina is amazing, but it might not be what you want in a dog. These are the dogs you bring to a dog park and they run one dog after another until the entire park is exhausted and lying down…except your Vizsla is now ready for a one hour game of fetch.

  • Raw Dog Feeding- Affordable, Details, our Vancouver sources, and supplements

    Raw Dog Feeding- Affordable, Details, our Vancouver sources, and supplements

    1. Whiskey
    2. Bourbon
    3. Feeding details
    4. Proteins
    5. Extras
    6. Supplements
    7. Meal Bones
    8. Sample Meal
    9. Travel and Training
    10. Amount
    11. Benefits and Downsides
    12. Risks
    13. Switching
    14. Digestive Issues
    15. Sources

    Whiskey’s tummy

    When I first brought Whiskey home, she was eating kibble and for some reason, kibble just didn’t really make “sense” to me. I avoid highly processed food in general because it just doesn’t make me feel so good, and I wanted to feed Whiskey something I understood and felt good about. To me, food should look like food, and I started cooking for her and trying different menu options. I wasn’t against kibble sometimes, but I just felt that since I wouldn’t like to eat nutrition bars all my life (but hey once in awhile is fine), I wanted to try and feed more fresh foods to my growing puppy.

    After a couple weeks it just became very time consuming and I was getting anxious about balancing all the required nutrients. It’s very hard to know how much calcium you’re feeding for example, and although Whiskey LOVED the cooked meals, it just wasn’t a practical long term solution. At that point she ate more food than I did, and I was making a huge batch of slow-cooked food every other day and grocery shopping just took too much money and time.

    Raw meat mix with leftover veges I had in the fridge

    Soon after I shifted her onto raw food, but it took me 1 year to figure out what Whiskey did best on, and where best to buy from. Whiskey was very picky with food, and she had multiple issues with Guardia and diarrhea, vomiting, and other illnesses in the beginning so it took awhile to find our rhythm. In the end, I found out that Whiskey likes semi-frozen meals, and doesn’t like chicken, gamey bird meats (like Quail and duck), but is ok with Turkey. When I say she doesn’t “like”, she’s not intolerant, she just refuses to eat it, and will pick at her food for weeks if I try to out-stubborn her and would get way too skinny. Whiskey seems to do well on lean meats like Turkey, Lamb, Pork, and Elk (we had a scare where we thought she might have had Pancreatitis), and is very sensitive to greasy foods (much more sensitive than Bourbon for example). Every dog is different and it’s really good to find out what works for your dog (like people!).

    Nutrience pre-mix with raw elk, canned pumpkin leftover rice, and raw egg

    Bourbon’s appetite

    Bourbon also came kibble-fed and I was able to switch her over to raw within one meal several days after she settled into our home. She had no tummy problems and eats really well. Bourbon eats meats well but is oddly picky with new foods like vegetables and fruits. While Whiskey will beg for orange slices and strawberries, Bourbon won’t touch them. Each dog is different! Bourbon’s done well with every protein we’ve thrown at her. The only thing I have to keep in mind is to slowly increase her large “bone meals” (meaty bones as a meal) or she’ll be overwhelmed with a bone too large! Bourbon loves fish, even whole fish, while Whiskey will only eat small chopped up fish.

    What a typical block of frozen dog meat looks like. 10% bone, 5% liver, 5% kidney/spleen 80% muscle meat

    Vet opposition

    Most traditional vets are opposed to the raw diet for a variety of reasons. Most studies about dog food are done and funded by large dog food companies and there is very little financial incentive to study the benefits to raw so first off there’s little evidence to back raw food as being an healthier alternative. Raw food manufacturers are new and small (and tend to be local because raw is harder to ship) and don’t have the resources to fund these studies.

    Also because raw diets vary so much, vets can be scared of the possibility of nutritional imbalances. There are definitely some people that aren’t going to do the research or even know that this is something you need to do. If you feed only hamburger meat and eggshells, your dog is going to be sick, so you’ll need to do a minimal amount of research or purchase a pre-mixed raw. At the least a dog needs muscle meat, organ (lots of minerals and vitamins in organs), and bone. Last, the risk of meat-borne bacteria. While there is always a risk of handing raw meat, it’s not more so than any meat that you eat (we buy all human grade meat for our dogs). Vets don’t want to take on the extra liability if they recommend a raw diet.

    We’ve worked with vets that oppose or support our raw feeding but once they see how healthy our dogs are, their teeth, coat, and demeanor, I haven’t been given too much grief. I’ve found over time they’re more supportive or at least there’s less opposition.

    Daily feeding raw, the details

    Semi-frozen seems like the best texture for most dogs. Some will eat fully frozen, and most that I know aren’t crazy about fully defrost soft mushy raw blend. For meaty bones, Whiskey didn’t’ want to work for her meal, so I would sear the sides of the turkey neck or lamb neck to get her “into it”. I also taught the dogs to eat on a mat for easy indoor cleanup. I feed my cat the same meat as my dogs, I just add extra taurine into the food for her (in the form of hearts).

    Everyday I defrost the next day’s meat and feed the meal I put in the day earlier so its’ semi defrosted in the fridge. We have a deep freezer (even in the apartment we bought a deep freezer) so we can get about 120 lbs of meat at a time to keep costs and shopping less. We use THESE containers and put a couple blocks in. Whiskey eats about 1.5lbs and Bourbon (currently 8 months) eats about 2lbs. I use a fork to break up the semi-frozen blocks into a bowl, add any extras, and feed. It takes approx. 2 mins to prepare. We use a sanitizing wipe or spray on the mats after they’ve eaten and that’s about it. I’m extra cautious about tripe and I’m always in the room with the girls while they eat. I like to prevent any guarding issues with eating (all 3 are fed at the same time), and if we’re feeding bones, I’m also there to encourage them to stay on the mat. They also eat better and are less insecure if I’m there. If one finishes much faster, I’m also there to remove a temptation for one to go after another’s meal.

    a 40lb box of bulk raw meat, straight into the deep freezer, we get 3 at a time

    Proteins we feed

    I usually buy my food in bulk 40lb boxes of a single protein although sometimes I might get patties, or pre-mixes to make my life easier (or if someone is pet-sitting I want their lives to be easy!). Most mixes we use are around 80% muscle meat, 10% organ and 10% bone.

    Beef -local, but higher fat, prefer elk but harder to find
    Turkey- our go to protein, lean and easier to digest than chicken
    Pork- lean, we use rarely but I do like to mix in different protein, there is a blanket warning about feeding raw pork because of larvae of Trichinella spiralis (a parasite), however this is not an issue in Canada
    Elk- Low in fat, we love elk but hard to find and more expensive
    Fish- whole fish from Asian food markets, or fish byproduct from our local fish shop (odds and ends that don’t make it to human products), please note to freeze wild caught salmon or any hunted meats for 3 weeks before feeding to avoid parasites

    Nutrience Raw or other pre-mix- just feed packets and done! includes supplements, veg, variety meat mixed already

    Make sure the premix has muscle meat, bone, and organ, if not, then make sure you add some. You don’t need to add it in equally every meal, just overall. For instance some premix doesn’t have bone because it’s hard to grind up beef bones. I might feed 3 meals of beef without bone (2 meals a day) and then feed one meal of meaty bone. If I don’t add veg to one meal, I might add extra to another. You’re aiming for variety overall, not variety in every meal.

    raw turkey with sardines, egg, and Dr Dobias supplements

    Extras

    lamb neck- Whiskey’s favorite, a good treat I can’t always afford, Whiskey prefers it seared (roll eyes here)
    chicken carcass- Moo and Bourbon, best to start puppies from
    chicken/turkey hearts- for Moo (I feed her dog meat mix and add extra hearts for taurine)
    turkey/duck neck- Bourbon loves, Whiskey doesn’t seem to digest these well anymore (although turkey meat is ok)
    green tripe- Amazing for both dogs, I try to find whole pieces, not ground down (cheaper and less processed), super smelly but healthy if you can deal with the smell (not for the newly initiated into raw feeding!)
    pumpkin (canned)/ steamed yams
    steamed veges, chopped spinach,
    chicken egg/quail egg
    berries
    leftovers (nothing greasy, toxic, saucy)

    Supplements I use, I don’t really need to but I feel better!

    Supplements

    I use GreenMin, Soulfood from Dr Dobias (I use about a 1/3 of the recommended amount a day)
    Fish/sardines/krill oil for omega 3s
    Turmeric as an inflammatory (after high impact activity, or any swelling)
    Green lipped mussel for joints
    Kiefer for probiotics
    Gutsense (after vomiting or diarrhea or antibiotic use)

    Nutrience Raw mix with kiefer, turkey neck for Bourbon, lamb neck for Whiskey, and pumpkin

    Meal bones

    We feed meal bones 1-3 times a week. This is to help clean their teeth, and when I just need a break because it can take up to an hour for Whiskey to break down a piece of lamb neck. Chewing on a meaty bone takes brain power and it’s something they both enjoy and get tired doing. It’s the perfect rainy day activity.

    See this as an opportunity to vary your usual proteins, and size depending on your dog’s chewing ability. Start with smaller bones with a puppy or cats, like chicken carcass, and duck neck. My cat can break down turkey necks but she’s a bit…crazy. Start young and with boney pieces like chicken backs or turkey necks in sections (chop them up). If your dog is just licking the the meat if they are playing with it too much and cut into the meat so there’s more to work with. Whiskey also preferred her meat seared (I’m serious, she was that picky but then she would eat it). Don’t try cartilage until you know your dog is really into bones. Whiskey hates the texture.

    If you can feed outdoors that’s ideal but we have to feed indoors so we’ve taught the dogs to eat on a mat. Look around for a butcher than might keep you some cuts for cheap. Avoid weight bearing bones on large animals if your dog is a big chewer (they might crack teeth) and never feed cooked bones, especially small birds because cooked bones are brittle and can break and puncture intestines. If your dog does eat some by mistake, just keep an eye out for any signs of issues.

    Sample meal

    I just wash my hands after handling raw meat, I use food storage containers to defrost daily

    I typically don’t spend too much effort making a fancy meal for my dog but sometimes I’ll have extras. The base for most meals is just the block of meat I buy in bulk. Here’s an example of how much effort I put in myself, although I see many dog parents that make the most Instagram worthy meals for their pups!

    Simple meal (50%): 1 bock of meat half defrosted

    Regular meal (35%): 1 block of meat, some veg, supplements

    Fancy meal (10%): 1 block of meat, quail egg, fish, veg, tablespoon kiefer, supplements, berries from garden

    Bone Meal (10%): 1 piece of meaty bone

    Travel and Training with Raw

    For travel I’ll usually bring a couple blocks of meat for the first couple days and put them in the hotel fridge or an ice box. Pre-mixes are easiest at this point and sometimes the pre-packed packaging really helps in an ice box. If we are going into the backcountry our somewhere without a fridge I’ll start bringing freeze dried raw. There’s many different options on the market and in most cases you do get what you pay for. Try feeding the freeze dried as treats or food topper before going on the trip to make sure your dog will eat it happily first. I’ve found some cheaper brands will show in loose stools, but we’ve had the best luck with Open Farm’s freeze dried raw. Our dogs love it so much I use it as training treats and meal supplements while training Bourbon as a puppy. Also if your dog has also done well with kibble I don’t see harm in switching to kibble for travelling either as long as stools show no change and your dog seems to be doing well. Of course like always, I’m not an expert and just speaking from my own personal experience.

    Amount to feed

    Feed the dog in front of you. Start with an amount. If your dog is skinny, double it until your dog looks good, then reduce the amount until your dog looks healthy. If your dog is too big, halve the amount until your dog looks good, then find the amount in-between that keeps your dog at that weight. Don’t move up and down in small amounts. Watch their poop, bugs? loose? tight? it will tell you lots!

    Our costs are around 2-3$/lbs (Canadian dollars) in bulk 40lbs box. 53lbs Whiskey eats about 1.5lbs a day (3% of body weight but very active dog) and 41lbs Bourbon eats about 2lbs (5% of body weight at 8 months). They get extra on days we are doing big hikes, and maybe less if we’re not doing too much (although that’s rare because Bourbon doesn’t really allow that scenario).

    Puppy *first month home- 8-10%
    Growing puppy- 6-8%
    Teenager puppy- 4-6%
    1-2 yrs- 3-4%
    adult 2-3%
    active adult- 3%
    senior/less active/overweight adult – 1.5%

    On the top was my dinner, on the bottom, Whiskey’s dinner, this makes more sense to me than kibble

    What are the benefits to feeding raw

    -you know exactly what you are feeding, easier to control for allergies
    -not processed
    -local sources
    -control over ingredients (more fat, less fat, more meat, less pumpkin)
    -fresh food, easily digestible
    -less gas, less stinky breath, less poop (more food used, less poop wastage)
    -no preservatives
    -no fillers needed to make kibble
    -clean teeth (bones and no fillers/carbs)
    -less “doggie” odour
    -less shedding, softer shiner coat
    -more energy, better immune system

    Downsides to feeding raw

    -tends to be more expensive
    -gross compared to kibble
    -need to have organization and defrost, etc
    -more washing, more hassle
    -limited usage (ie compared to kibble best before date)
    -harder to source
    -need travelling options
    -can worry if old/young/immune compromised
    -need freezer space

    raw meat, roasted pumpkin, kefir, supplements

    What are the risks and how do we mitigate them?

    If there’s young children or very old family members that may be immune compromised, keep surfaces clean and don’t use the same bowl for humans and dogs. Use the same precautious handing any kind of meat as with the dog food. Avoid kisses right after eating. Don’t keep food too long defrosted, we’ve rarely had this issue, but I’ve refrozen the food (sometimes even for an hour or two) if I think we might be going on a camping trip. Remember humans are more at risk than dogs to things like e-coli, dogs eat loads of unsavory things and don’t get sick and their stomachs are better adjusted to eating raw meat than ours are.

    Switching diets to raw

    This really depends on the dog that is transitioning and can be easy or hard. With Whiskey it took months going from kibble to cooked to raw. Kibble to cooked food is really easy, and from cooked to raw, it took a longer time. I was new to raw feeding and was trying many sources and things. I also didn’t know that half frozen is ideal for texture! Whiskey is so picky with her food and since she was the only dog eating, there was no sense of competition (she ate better when we petsitted another dog).

    Bourbon just switched outright and never looked back. Some dogs are able to eat one meal kibble, one meal raw without issues, others cannot. Slow cooked food is the easiest to digest so use that for transitioning if you have a sensitive tummy. Start with a raw meal after 12-24 hours of a kibble one, start with a smaller amount, maybe with some pumpkin. If your dog doesn’t like half-frozen, try a room temperature meal but make sure you don’t leave the food out very long.

    Moo’s food is at the bottom. She gets the same raw and a chicken heart (for taurine)

    Digestive issues

    If your dog gets sick or has stomach issues after switching, watch their poop. As soon as Whiskey or Bourbon gets diarrhea or vomits more than once, I switch straight to slow cooked turkey, white rice, and pumpkin (or carrots). I also use Gutsense from Dr Dobias (probiotics specifically for dogs). I used to use another brand but once I looked up the ingredients I was really disgusted and found Gutsense. I keep feeding until the poop looks good for a couple days, then slowly transition back to raw. I basically just throw everything into a slowcooker and make a massive amount of congee (Chinese rice soup). Giardia is pretty prevalent where I live and after I learned to do this we haven’t had to go to the vet over any stomach issues since they clear up themselves.

    BC Sources we have tried and used and recommend

    RainCity meats $ (delivery) email muttleycrewadventures@gmail.com for details
    Beltrame meats $
    B&T Raw $
    In the Raw $$
    Nutrience Subzero Raw (Petsmart) $$$
    True Carnivores $$ (delivery)
    Open Farm (Discount Code Whiskey10) $$$
    Supplements from Dr Dobias $$

  • 10 Unusual and Practical Pieces of Dog Gear

    10 Unusual and Practical Pieces of Dog Gear

    Do you love getting out and adventuring with your dog but you just wish there was that one piece of gear to make it all easier? Perhaps your dog is slightly injured, has allergies, or keeps building up ice on their boots? Here’s a list of specialized dog gear that you might find useful!

    dog paw wax

    Musher’s Secret: Use paw wax in place of winter booties. Originally designed for sledding dogs, this wax can help prevent snowballing, salt, ice build-up, hot sand and pavement. I do find the wax wears off during a walk or hike so you’ll need several applications over the day but it’s a great option to booties.

    Downpour Hurtta suit jacket with integrated bug repellant in it worn by Bodhi the Ridgeback in Assiniboine Park
    Bodhi wearing the downpour suit with integrated bug repellant

    Sun and Bug Blocker Hurtta: A bodysuit with UPF 40 and bug repellent built in! Great if your dog loves to camp but is severely allergic to mosquitoes, ticks or horseflies. Or perhaps your dog has recent surgery and needs to stay out of the sun! There are also vests and a Downpour suit that has permethrin imbedded in it should you need a warmer or other option.

    Whyld river sleeping bag made for dogs, super flexible and warm for winter
    Whiskey in her Whyld River sleeping bag

    Whyld River Sleeping Bag: A sleeping bag designed to separate, clip in, or permanently toggle each section for maximum flexibility. The snaps will pop off if your dog wants out, but if you want to keep it closed even if your dog moves, use the toggles. We helped design this bag and love and use it! Discount code: WHISKEY10

    Neopaws boots come in orthopedic options for dogs made out of neoprene
    Neopaws Boots with loads of sizes made of neoprene

    Neopaws Orthopedic Boots: orthopedic winter boots with support that are made out of Neoprene, good even for water use! You can even buy insoles to adjust the height of each boot so you can take your older pup out for walks without pain.

    Neopaws Gaiters: Dog gaiters/boot covers to prevent snow/ice buildup on dog boots.

    Dog gaiters from backcountry paws with boots attached
    Dog gaiters with boots attached

    Backcountry Paws Gaiters: Dog gaiters with boots attached.
    We love these and use them all the time under a jacket because there’s no more chances of losing a boot! A little complicated to put on but well worth not having to worry about and search for a lost bootie.

    Ruffwear Doubleback Harness: a Belay specialized harness for climbing and repelling.
    This full body dog lifting harness is for crag dogs that love to follow their owners everywhere. It’s the only harness I’ve seen that has the back leg loops and specifically made for climbing.

    Ear Pro: Dog hearing ear protection
    Designed for working military dogs, these are great for noise sensitive pups, or dogs living in and working in loud environments to help prevent hearing loss.

    Whiskey Vizsla wearing Rex specs goggles or doggles in the snowy mountains
    Rex Specs googles

    Rex Specs: Dog eye protection
    We love these goggles to protect eyes from high winds (on a motorcycle), extreme cold, hunting in bush, eye injuries, sun glare, and other medical needs. With 5 sizes the goggles cover most sizes and look awesome.

    No Flap Ear Wrap: Dog ear injury protection
    Dog ear injuries take forever to heal and can bloody your walls quickly. Keep your dog’s ear protected and dry with this Ear Wrap.


    Click here for the Winter dog gear blogpost

    Click here for the Winter Dog Boot post

  • How to Train your Puppy to Recall Off Leash

    How to Train your Puppy to Recall Off Leash

    Do you struggle with recalling your dog reliably when they’re off leash in a new area full of smells, people, dogs, and noises? Here’s a guide to what I found was helpful with my girls!

    1. Start Recall Right Away
    2. Puppy Recall
    3. The Goal
    4. How to Be Fun
    5. How to Be Strategic
    6. Stay Safe!
    7. Distance Duration Distraction
    8. Preemptive Games
    9. Recall off Wild Animals
    10. Treats as Rewards
    11. Other Reward Options
    12. Jackpot
    13. Socialization prevents Runaways
    14. High Prey Drive
    15. Exercise
    16. Challenges
    16. Resources

    Disclaimer
    First off, here’s a reminder that I AM NOT A PROFFESIONAL TRAINER, but here’s what I do with my Vizslas in order for us to have them off leash in our area. I hope some of this would be helpful, but most importantly start early, be consistent about practicing, and be patient (with yourself and your dog). Find a support network and ask for help!

    Start Recall Right Away

    With both Bourbon and Whiskey we let them off leash from day one in safer low-distraction areas (they were 8 weeks old). In both cases we didn’t have access to a fenced yard or fenced area but they were still allowed to roam free and recalled as soon as they went about 6 feet away with lots of yummy treats, praise and attention. The main dangers and distractions to avoid were people, cars, dogs, and wildlife.

    Bourbon Dragging a leash

    Puppy Recall

    I found that when they were very young they didn’t “see” as far away as we did and so it was much easier to recall and leash up before a person or dog walked close enough to be a problem. Recalling and learning their names took about a week or so, so in the beginning high pitched sounds like “beep bep beep bep” to recall, along with their names and a continuous “YES!!” that got more excitable as they ran towards you worked well. Yes, you will sound like a crazy person but the more you are willing to be insane and do anything to get your puppy’s attention, the more successful you’ll be. Always follow up with yummy treats to hold their attention once they are close! Start offering the treats but then quickly move to only offering treats once you have eye contact. Ideally wait for eye contact before you even touch or move your hand towards the rewards.

    Offleash Bourbon as a puppy

    The Goal

    Your goal with recall is that you must make yourself more interesting than everything else in the environment. Pair up the name+treat+fun as quickly as you can and practice in harder environments. You can be more patient with interesting distractions but if your puppy is totally ignoring you, grab your pup quickly instead of calling and calling, and if possible drop the leash and practice the recall when the distraction is a bit further away and you are closer to your pup. See every distraction as an opportunity to practice recall, you only need to learn what is within the edge of success and work within that. The more success you can get, even if they are easy successes the more confidence and predictability you’ll have. Recall 5-20 times on every walk, you’ll collect the wins so fast!

    Treats for stumps with Whiskey

    Be Fun!

    When your puppy just starts to turn their head towards you as you call, first acknowledging you, you must build on that attention. Call you YESS! and do what you can to be cooler than whatever the distraction was. Try different things and see what works with your dog. Squeal progressively louder, or higher pitched, run away in a weird zig zag catch-me-if-you-can, drop to the ground, hide behind a tree.

    When your pup approaches, don’t just stand there and hand over a treat. Toss the treat one way and run the other so your dog needs to catch you for the next treat. Roll the treat between your legs so they need to find it, hold the treat and lure them around a little bit, dropping bits into their mouth as you go. Make it FUN! Keep your voice happy, keep your attitude light. Would you want to run as fast as you can to someone that’s angry, yanks you, puts you on a leash and screams at your face? You’d probably want to run towards someone that is smiling, giving you $100, telling you how beautiful you look, and that they missed you and would you like a bar of your favorite chocolate?

    If you’re prone to scream or be super stressed when recalling in difficult situations (ie you’re scared your dog is going to run into traffic and you cannot control your voice), then train your dog to associate your load scary screaming with urgency but NOT punishment or fear. Finally, even though you’re working on being fun with your dog, you still want to stay in charge and hold a confident demeanor, it can be a little bit of a weird line to walk on while making weird noises and playing hide and seek, but when you praise or command, it needs to be with confidence.

    Be Strategic With Recall

    What is the distraction? See if you can figure out what has your dog’s attention and reward them with the same thing but better. If your dog is busy sniffing out something exciting, then recall them and scatter some treats here and there and ask them to use their nose to find it. If your puppy is old enough, teach them to do a sit/stay and then search for treats in a larger area on command. If your dog is distracted by chasing another dog, let them chase you a little bit, put a tree between you and make it hard for them to catch you, when they do, squeal and play and give them a treat. If your dog is distracted by a toy, bring a toy with you and recall straight to a tug or a ball or stick. If your dog is off chasing things that move, recall and throw treats further, make them run back and forth, maybe getting them to catch them in the air. Certain breeds of dogs will have better drive to recall for different things. Puppies tend to take food easier but as they grow up, work on increasing a drive that you can control (a drive to tug, a drive to fetch, a drive to do tricks, a drive to sniff). This will build your value to your dog that you are the only thing in the world that can provide the magical ball and will help not only your recall but your ability to hold their concentration over distractions.

    Long line practice with Whiskey

    Stay Safe

    Recall practice looks so different depending on where you live. If you’re in a rural area with loads of forest, but dangerous animals, or if you’re in the city with cars everywhere and only tiny busy parks, you can find a way to practice recall safely. A long line is a super long leash (20+ feet) that you can let your dog drag along (or you can hold it and unravel as needed) and just step on the line if your dog isn’t recalling. You can also use natural and man made barriers that control and slow down your dog. Baseball diamonds in the offseason, islands, mountains, or streams will keep most puppies in line (it really depends on breeds but my dogs will never cross water so I use that frequently as a natural barrier). Learn your dog and predict what their range will be in open land, or crowded forest. You can just do recall in the city with a 6 foot leash, walking around downtown and recalling off discarded food on the ground, other dogs, or interesting events. We used to find geese in the city parks and practice heeling and recall with our regular leash.

    Whiskey with Canadian Geese as a puppy

    Distance, Duration, Distraction

    See if you can put these distractions in order for your dogs (from least to most distracting) and proactively find these distractions to recall from. Start from the furthest distance you can and work your way up to your dog interacting with the distraction and calling them back (ie mid squirrel stalk). Work on longer durations that you expect their concentration, and adjust depending on their moods, the environment and other factors.

    • Dogs
    • People
    • Cars
    • Bikes
    • Pigeons
    • Geese
    • Squirrels
    • Cats
    • Discarded wrappers
    • Pizza on the ground
    • Dog treats on the ground
    • Deer
    • Ball
    • Stick
    • Smelly dead animal
    • Horse poop
    • Remote control car toy/Drones

    Preemptive Games

    Hide and seek- in a quiet safe area worked really well for us when they were young (not so effective with a teenager!). Vizslas and puppies especially want to be with their human so we would take just Bourbon or Whiskey out for a walk around a forest with big trees but no people. We would then hide as soon as she wandered far enough away and wait for her to notice we were missing. As soon as we could see her looking for us, we would call out and let her find us. It would become a game for her to make sure we were always close so we couldn’t go hide on her. We would also give her lots of treats and love when she did find us! You can also play this game with two people, one hiding, and when ready, ask your puppy to “find mommy”. Not only will your dog learn your “name”, but they’ll be learning to sniff you out to receive a big welcome, treat and love.

    If you are going for a walk off leash and your dog or puppy checks in with you, always give praise and treats.

    Fear of On-leashing-

    Practice holding onto your dog’s collar and leashing and unleashing with treats. Some dogs understand that a recall means they must lose their freedom and go on leash and will play keep-away. Try walking on and off leash periodically and leash up calmly with a treat before and after touching or tugging the collar. It’s better if your dog does not shy away from you quickly grabbing and tugging on their collar incase of emergency so practice this without warning and give praises and treats . Always notice if your dog is tense or anxious and work within their boundaries. I like to tell my girls “leash up” so they know what’s happening and expect them to stand and wait for me to struggle for 30seconds.

    Whiskey meets horses for the first time

    Wild animals

    If possible, find out the gamut of animals you may encounter and see if you can figure out which ones capture your dog’s attention the most to least. Find and work with the animal that is least interesting (ie crows are less interesting than pigeons, than ducks, than grouse). Practice calm sits, paw, lie downs around a crow from a distance.

    Find out what is the closest distance you can practice training your dog and keep their attention with the animal around. It’s ok for them to notice the animal, just not run towards it. You want to practice a sit/stay/down before you practice recall. Recall with a long line or leash drag once you gain your own confidence. Slowly work your way closer to the animal, then work on a harder animal. Sometimes you may just need to have your dog beside you on leash, feeding them treats for half an hour until they are ready to train. Be patient, it’s worth it! Repeat daily and you’ll see improvement quickly!

    Train “leave it” and increase self control which will help with everything involving recall, especially wild animals. Start “leave it” with low value treats or food, and slowly increase the duration, the food value, and the distance you are from your dog and treat. Depending on your dog and your goals, you can either release your dog to eat the food/meal/treat or you can provide a higher value reward and take away the treat. This can be practiced with leaving food found on the ground in a city, a pigeon on the sidewalk, or even good smelling coffee cup.

    Whiskey on leash with a marmot in Northern BC

    Treats as Reward

    I use a variety of treats and I pay attention to which ones my dog values more. I use lower value treats for easier recalls, and give them a handful if they do something amazing. When I’m first introducing something new I use only high value treats. I always have a mix so my pup doesn’t get bored and so that I can reach in and try something different if needed. Because my training can use up a bag of treats quickly I like to use freeze dried raw food as a meal replacement. Sometimes people use kibble but I really think these are more highly valued (it only takes a quick test to find out!).

    Other Reward Options

    Notice what your dog likes as praise, not what you think your dog “should” like. Some dogs don’t like to be petted on their heads, or hugged. Vizslas tend to love attention and vocal praise as well as butt scratches but your dog might love a chin scratch and hate eye contact. Over time, if you can train your dog to like something more than treats (like a tug toy or a ball) you’ll have an easier time of training and a much cheaper time too! (also see the “Be Strategic” section.

    Working dogs tend to have a drive for some type of “work”, you’ll just need to try different things along with treats and praises to see what may stick. Whiskey LOVES sticks and balls even more than treats as she loves to “work” and fetch is her work. The more options you have, the better when recalling. It’s likely your dog will not want to recall from chasing a goose unless she thinks you may have something even better for her like a squeaky bouncy ball that she can play with over and over. Lastly, sometimes “COME!” may not have been trained enough and have enough of a reward than another command like “FETCH” or “SIT”, if that’s the case, you can either recall with whatever command is working, and then work your recall command to be stronger, or include another command with your recall (ie sometimes it will help if I recall Whiskey and go immediately into a trick or two to get her mind fully off the distraction and onto me so my recall is stronger if I use a COME paired with a STUMP or PAW).

    The Jackpot

    Once inawhile, pack something AMAZING like an entire beef patty or bacon, or roasted chicken in an airtight container and pull it out for a really good recall. This gets your dog just hoping to hit jackpot and addicted to the recall. You can also teach an emergency recall to a different command on top of your regular recall and train for extremely snappy returns that are always paired with jackpots.

    Socialization to the max!

    Socializing Prevents Runaways

    Some dogs can run because they see or hear something frightening and they are essentially deaf to your voice at this point. It’s so important that you socialize your dog to all sorts of sounds, animals, people, and events all with positive reinforcements. Introduce new things well within your dog’s anxiety limits and be conservative with their reactions. If it doesn’t feel right, or you feel you are pushing it, then just take it slower. Some dogs will be totally fine with a busy city center, noises, cars backfiring, and motorcycles right next to them, but some other dogs may need a very very slow introduction to a bus beep. All the work you do when they are young will pay off, you just may not see it, because it won’t become a problem.

    A Samoyed with Wild Horses

    High Prey Drive is real and Difficult to Overcome

    There are lots of dogs that may become deaf/blind to your calls when they start chasing prey and there may be very little you can do once your dog starts the chase. Start as early as you can to work on recall but there may be limits to recall from voice with certain dogs. There are many options and tools out there but please do research and train with a professional. If you can recognize the signals before your dog does run and can interrupt the sequence, that’s always great, but it may not be reasonable to expect perfect recall, ever with just your voice.

    Exercise

    Lastly, having a puppy or dog that has many outlets for exercise, chase, play, and mental simulation will reduce their need and drive to run off. Changing up your park, meeting other dogs for playtime, and training sessions that mentally tire out your dog will reduce the amount of times they may not want to recall.

    Practice recall in this situation!

    Challenges

    Recall like any training is not easy, nor is it a linear progression. There might be setbacks, and breakthroughs and ruts in the road. If you start when your dog is a puppy and continually reinforce throughout their lifetime, you’ll probably have an easier time than starting later and doing a big 6 months and then relaxing.

    So much depends on the dog’s personality and breed. Herding dogs stay closer to the herd (you!), whereas hunting dogs are bred to find a scent and chase it for as long as it takes. Sled dogs are bred to survive and be independent, and protection dogs will naturally stay close. Unneutered males and females in heat will range, and teenager dogs 7months-1 year or so will challenge your status and commands. Keep all this in mind and remember that even if your dog is perfectly well trained, you will need to reinforce recall over their lifetimes and keep practicing what works for both of you.

    Resources

    There are loads of resources online for recall, specific issues, and for so many things I just touched upon. Work with a trainer, or read, listen, and watch what you can to learn. Here are a couple quick resources I threw together. Most of my learning comes from talking to friends, trainers, watching videos I don’t keep track of, and loads of trial and error. Don’t just follow one trainer or blog, read lots and make up your own mind what makes sense to you and your dog.

    Biothane long line

    Sexier than a Squirrel Challenge

    Come, Boy Train your Dog to Come Every Time

    Zac George Video Recall

    Recall with Husky

    Victoria Stilwell recall

    Whole dog Journal