Tag: camping

  • Guide to Beaches and Paddling Lakes on the Sea to Sky Highway

    Guide to Beaches and Paddling Lakes on the Sea to Sky Highway

    The Sea to Sky Highway linking Vancouver to Whistler and Pemberton is one of the most beautiful drives in the world. Weekend warriors load up every Friday evening and fill up the parking lots to every easily accessible lake, trail, and park along the road. Here’s a guide to the Lakes and beaches of the Howe Sound along the highway, and places I like to take a kayak, paddleboard, or canoe with my two Vizsla dogs Whiskey and Bourbon.

    Many of these places do fill up quickly on weekends and parking is not allowed on the highway so I would suggest weekdays or very early weekends to get a parking spot! The guide moves from Vancouver to Pemberton and is location based. Check the tides for anything in Howe Sound and wear a life jacket! In case you’re a dog owner, here’s a blog on how to get started paddling with your dog.

    🚗 Car Access
    🚶‍♂️ Walk to Access
    💪Hike to Access
    🚽 Toilets
    🗑️ Garbage Bins
    🛑Difficult Parking
    🚫No Dogs

    Vancouver-Squamish

    Whytecliff Park 🚶‍♂️🚽 🗑️ – The access is down a set of stairs and a rocky beach. Check the tides before you go! There are seals, periodic whales, and an islet (island sometimes connected) to paddle around. Sunset is gorgeous. This is also a common diving spot so watch for divers! Bathrooms and a small food concession is on site as well as a small trail, green grassy space.

    Kelvin Grove Beach 🚶‍♂️🗑️- Lions Bay Beach Park may be preferable for those without dogs, but Kelvin Grove Beach is Dog Friendly. There is paid parking, and the access is down a short trail to a small set of rocks with logs. Depending on the tide you will have more or less beach to launch from with your dogs. No bathrooms.

    Porteau Cove 🚗🚽 🗑️ -A much larger beach and area to launch from. There is a campground connected to the beach as well as a large dock. Bathrooms are available and there’s lots of places to launch especially when the tide is low. Very quick and easy access from the car to beach.

    Furry Creek Beach 🚶‍♂️🚽🗑️- There is less parking and a bit more walking involved than Poteau Cove to the beach access at Furry Creek Beach, however because of this the area is a bit more quiet. There is very little beach on high tide so be aware!

    Squamish-Whistler

    Mamquam Beach 🚶‍♂️-in Squamish is currently under a series of construction so it’s hard to tell how access is lately. Right now there’s a decent walk to the beach from easy parking downtown Squamish but the beach has the best view of the Chief especially during sunset.

    Spit Road 🚶‍♂️- in Squamish has lots of options to park and launch a boat, however be warned that the river can move quickly and you’ll likely be hiking your way back up the road when you’re done. Have knowledge of river paddling, the waterflow, and tides before putting into the Squamish River (especially if you’re going to drop in further upstream).

    Alice Lake 💪🚽 🗑️ – Alice Lake Provincial park has 4 lakes. The easiest accessible lake for paddling is Alice Lake itself but it’s not dog friendly (even the trails around the lake prohibit dogs). Stump Lake is the easiest accessible lake for paddling with dogs and is quite quiet for boats and swimming even on a busy day.

    Cat Lake 🚶‍♂️🚽🗑️ – Cat Lake a small lake with loads of docks. It’s great to practice paddling as it’s so small with so many access points and lots of parking. Even so, on weekends the campground fills out and it can get extremely busy. An AWD is advised as the road can get rough and in winter it can be impassible. Boat access is a short walk down a wide trail to the main dock. There are pit toilets at parking and lots of garbage bins.

    Brohm Lake 💪🚽- Brohm lake has very limited parking, especially in the summer weekends. There can be a lineup of cars waiting to get in further up the highway. It’s a long narrow lake and water access isn’t the easiest. If you take the trail going south from the parking lot, you get to the lake quicker but you’re launching from rocks. There’s also water access if you walk up north but you’ll be hiking up and down big rocks. The area is beautiful and there are pit toilets up the North trail from the parking lot but no garbage bins currently (please take your garbage out!).

    Levette Lake 🚶‍♂️🚽🗑️- A beautiful lake up a FSR (Forest Service Road). You will need AWD on your car in order to get up the road and there’s limited parking. The water access is a short walk from the parking, which has garbage bins and pit toilets. There is very little “beach” to launch from and the area can get very busy on weekends. This may not be accessible in the winter and there are cougars and bears in the area.

    Hut Lake 💪🛑- 4.5km hike down a wider easy trail from Levette Lake. You can drive further up the road shortening this hike if you have a 4wd and if you have a monster truck you can drive the entire way to the lake HOWEVER I have seen several trucks attempt this and be stuck and it is not an easy location for someone to come pull you out! A much quieter lake because of the hiking access but with no toilets, bins, and extra cougars and bears.

    Starvation Lake 💪- Either 2.6km from the highway or 3.5km from Paradise Valley Road (AWD advisable). An easy walk down a trail to the lake provides a lovely paddle on a nice summer day. There is limited parking on the Highway and you’ll have to walk along the highway for a small stretch before the trail starts down. Paradise Valley can get busy with campers and cars as well.

    Lucille Lake 💪- Halfway to Whistler sits Lucille Lake. Again, busy on weekend especially with locals, there is a limited parking on the FSR over Chance Creek Bridge. There are two launch points that involve a short walk in. The further beach has a nice sandy beach, great to lounge or launch from. There’s also a huge questionable bike ramp on one side of the lake. With no toilets or bins, keep your dogs really close and don’t wander too far into the woods.

    Daisy Lake 💪🛑- A large lake on the way to Whistler but this one is NOT easily accessible. It’s also closed to organized recreational activity and BC Hydro has it damned so the water level changes radically.

    Callaghan Lake 🚗🚽- Callaghan Lake needs AWD access up a longer road filled with waterbars off the Sea to Sky Hwy. Launch access couldn’t be easier as you can drive right up to the lake to drop off a boat. The lake is large and surrounded by mountains. There are campsites, pit toilet but no bins.

    Madeley Lake 💪- Access by an easy walk off the FSR that leads to this lake. AWD accessible the last I checked (perhaps 4WD now) and less visited and paddled lake. Small beach access with wild camping, no toilets or bins.

    Whistler-Pemberton

    Alpha Lake 🚶‍♂️🚽🗑️- A smaller lake with a dog friendly area, Alpha lake has lots to see and like most of the other lakes can get busy on summer weekends. Being a smaller lake in an exclusive neighborhood, parking can be more difficult but there are so many lakes to choose from in this location.

    Nita Lake 🚶‍♂️🗑️ 🛑- A smaller lake that doesn’t have the easiest parking access. I Haven’t paddled this lake but there is a trail around most of the lake with access to drop a boat in.

    Alta Lake- 🚗🚽🗑️ With a dog-friendly beach, this is another beach I occasionally visit. The rainbow Park area has bathrooms, parking, and bins as well as a swimming area and dock. There are beautiful views of Whistler from the lake as well as lots of docks and big houses to check out.

    Green Lake- 🚗🚽🗑️ My favorite lake to paddle in Whistler. Green lake has easy access from many different trail and neighborhood parking along the lake. There’s also high end restaurants, chalets, and a gold course right by. Watch the seaplanes take off right in front of you (and please get out of the way!) and paddle around the gigantic mineral rich green lake.

    Whistler River– Golden Dreams Route- Paddle from Alta lake to Green Lake on this slow moving 5km route. You’ll see geese, maybe some bear, and lots of beautiful scenery. Aim for early summer as late summer the water can be low and you might need to portage a section. Check the water level before heading out as there’s a tricky section that might have you in the water. There are also tours you can take!

    Lost Lake– 🚶‍♂️🚽 🗑️ A lovely little lake with an easy beach to spend a summer day. Dogs are not permitted on the beach however but they’re welcome at “Canine Cove” 400m to the north.

    Pemberton and further

    One Mile Lake 🚗🚽 🗑️ – A lovely small lake with easy parking and beach access. The dock is easy to launch from and although the beach doesn’t allow dogs, no one has complained as we launched a boat with dogs from the dock. This is a lovely place to paddle for sunset and has lots of trails to hike when you’re done paddling.

    Lillooet Lake 🚶‍♂️🚽🗑️- The largest lake on this page by far! There are many access points along the In-shuck-ch FSR the easiest being Strawberry Point site with pit toilets, bins, and campgrounds. Access is down a dirt path to a rocky beach that stretches for a very very very long time. Because the lake is larger, pay attention to winds, however you can paddle here all day and still have loads to discover.

    Lower Joffre Lake 🚶‍♂️🚽🗑️🛑🚫- One of the most beautiful turquoise lakes, this park is now NOT dog friendly and also needs a day-pass. There is no reception at the lake so the pass must be garnered before heading up to the lakes and it is almost always packed. The lower lake is a short walk in and there is a small area to launch from. Pitt toilets and bins are available but sometimes both can be full.

    Duffey Lake- 🚗🛑 There is very little access to Duffey Lake but the area isn’t usually too busy. There are some places to pull over on the Duffey Lake Rd, or a viewpoint area on the East side with parking for several cars. The lake is huge and turquoise and surrounded by mountains. No bins or toilets, nor beach though!

    Seton Lake- 🚗🚽🗑️ Another absolutely gorgeous lake with limited parking access in the summer. If you’re feeling adventurous with a good car, you can drive around the lake and find quieter places to launch from or just to take photos.

    Birkenhead Lake 🚗🚽🗑️- Another provincial park with camping sites, toilets, and bins. The road is a bit rough but most cars can make it just fine, and I’m pretty sure there’s no reception. The area is beautiful with mountain backdrops and a beautiful lake. Perfect for swimming, there is a beach to launch from and it’s very easy to find a quiet spot to yourself on the lake

    Support my blog! Check out my little shop

  • Alaska’s Mint-Bomber Traverse with Dogs (and a Snowstorm)

    Alaska’s Mint-Bomber Traverse with Dogs (and a Snowstorm)

    Goldmint Trailhead to Mint Hut

    Deep in the Talkeetna Mountains in Alaska, a local favorite trail Hatcher Pass became world famous. Within the area, there are loads of options for hiking and exploration, but we only had a couple days, and very few days without an abundance of rain. My friend Kristina and our dogs Whiskey, Bourbon, and Cooper set out on a backcountry adventure exploring several huts and passes in the backcountry. As with most backcountry adventures in Alaska, our hike did not go according to plan.

    Bourbon’s first year with a pack

    First off was the 8 mile (13km) hike on the Gold Mint Trail to Mint Hut, where we planned to stay the first evening. The weather was beautiful and sunny (the only day it was!) and the hike in was the easiest part of the entire trip. We still did manage to get lost close to the hut, but we spent that time eating berries off the ground and taking photos so nothing very problematic. Because there had been so much rain, much of the trail was extremely muddy (re: a pond) so poles and waterproof boots were really helpful.

    Above Mint Hut, got a little lost

    When we finally found the hut, we spent the evening taking photos and enjoying the views. The clouds were coming in thicker so we were glad to have a hut to sleep in. Unfortunately the hut was also pretty damp and moldy smelling and all the pots and cups were pretty covered in black muck, so if you’re using anything stored inside, clean it well first. Also frustrating was the amount of dog poop left all around the hut. I’ve never experienced such poor management of dog feces on any trail or hut before (and that’s saying alot!) so PLEASE PLEASE pick up after your dog should you come here.

    Mint Hut exterior and views from Hatchers Pass
    Pick up after your dog here!

    Mint and Bomber huts are maintained by the MCA (Mountaineering Club of Alaska) so make sure you pay your yearly $20 fee online before you go. Because the weather had not been great, and we were at the end of the season (end of August), we were excited to try out the huts. Any of the huts along the route can be very busy so we brought an extra tent just in case, but luckily, there was only one other couple that ended up there that evening. With dogs, you must climb up a vertical ladder, or let them sleep on the ground. Our dogs are all smaller and hairless (and sleep inside our sleeping bags) so we had them up with us.

    Mint Hut interior and views from Hatchers Pass
    Mint Hut

    Mint Hut to Bomber Hut Via The Backdoor Gap (6.5km)

    This was so much fun! After Mint Hut, there are no more trails and you must be able to make your own way. You start heading up the steep scree boulder field heading towards the Backdoor Gap. The boulder field can be quite tough on dogs that are not used to climbing scree and rock. The rocks can rub paws raw, and the steep terrain can be dangerous if not navigated properly. Again, we didn’t take the most direct route, but we eventually did find the gap with extra scrambling and climbing and had quite a bit of fun doing so.

    Scree up to Backdoor gab
    Boulder field to Backdoor Gap

    The Gap itself is at the top of a glacier. You are climbing a small gap that can be snow-filled depending on the time of the year, or, in our case was currently snowing. Because it was so cold, windy, and snowing, we didn’t take too many photos and concentrated on descending. There were several questionable ropes hanging down that we used, but this section would be very steep for dogs.

    Backdoor Gap from Mint hut to Bomber Hut
    Kristina heading down the Backdoor Gap

    Next, you need to hike from the top of Penny Royal Glacier, all the way down. There were no crevasses we saw, and the glacier was pretty easy although quite slippery and was a nice break from scree climbing all morning. Eventually you drop down to the tundra and keep hiking until you find Bomber Hut. At this point it was starting to rain and we were quite tired from carrying our huge packs over the day.

    Backdoor Gab with Whiskey
    Kristina look over the Tundra heading to Bomber Hut
    Kristina look over the Tundra heading to Bomber Hut
    Bomber Hut and tundra in hatchers pass area
    Bomber hut in the background

    Bomber Hut was much nicer than Mint (although maybe not so pretty from the outside). It’s newer and with better airflow so it didn’t smell like mold. Again we were the first ones in so we made ourselves at home and started exploring outside between spells of rain.

    Bomber Pass from Bomber Hut, Alaska
    Bomber Pass

    The view from Bomber Hut were breathtaking. As the rains came and went, we were audience to moody lighting over an arena of mountain passes. Over the afternoon, more people came to join us and we had a lovely crew to chat with for the evening.

    Clouds coming in and out with Whiskey
    Bomber Hut
    Bomber Hut with snow

    Our next day, we had been hoping to hike to Snowbird Hut, however it was pouring rain and snow so we decided it would be nicer to take a day in rather than soaking everything we owned in cold rain for 5 hours without seeing any views.

    Kristina in Bomber Hut Interior
    Spending a day inside Bomber Hut

    We spent the laziest day in reading comics that had been left behind and chatting to the huge group of people that wandered through. Somehow Bomber Hut became the meeting place and over the day we had over 10 people max out the sleeping space. There were even several outside in tents in the drenching rain.

    Full House at Bomber Hut

    Bomber Hut To Reed Lakes Trailhead Via Bomber Pass (10.5km)

    Bomber Pass, Alaska
    Looking at Bomber Pass, hiking between these mountains up Bomber Glacier

    Since we changed our plans not to go to Snowbird, we ended up hiking out of Bomber Hut through Bomber Pass on our last day. We woke up to snow. So much snow! The snow turned to rain, but we could see at higher elevations it would be very very white. After a quick breakfast we started to head out and were the first group up the boulder field and onto the Bomber glacier to Bomber Pass.

    Bomber
    1950s TB-29 Bomber Wreckage and Memorial
    A plane wheel in a crevasse

    Bomber Pass is named as such because there is a TB-29 Superfortress Bomber Plane that crashed during a training mission in 1957 killing 6. Because it was snowing so hard, the other group that was heading up had decided to bypass the wreckage (it’s on the other side of the glacier). By the time we had located and explored the wreckage the other group had caught up to us and we were able to head up the pass to drop down onto Upper Reed Lake.

    A very snowy and rainy day

    The pass was quite dangerous with a new foot of snow that had fallen over the past day (making it 2 feet of fresh snow). Underneath the snow was pure ice and I hadn’t brought my ice axe so at one point I slipped and slid and slid, thankfully catching my foot on some rocks before I slid down a kilometer down the glacier. The top of the pass was totally covered in snow (snow covered rocks) so it became very very tricky to make our way up. Normally there should be a clearer path with rope but everything was so covered in snow.

    Bomber Pass in fresh snow
    Bomber Pass was treacherous with many injuries this day

    Upper and Lower Reed Lake

    Unfortunately since it was snowing so hard, we made our way through Upper Reed Lake and down through the boulder field only thinking about survival. Steep fresh snow covered boulders are a minefield and not fun on a sunny day. We were soaked to the bone with huge packs on and dogs to control. The snowy rocks are even more dangerous for dogs, especially inexperienced ones and a dog following us later that day tore a nail or toe and had to be carried the rest of the way. Someone else also injured their leg on the descent so be very methodical and careful.

    Once to Upper Reed Lake, the trails started again. I could see that normally these trails would be absolutely beautiful, but snow turned to pounding rain and we were quite tired from the pass so we just put our heads down and hiked out as fast as we could. Everything was so soaked my phone stopped working and our dogs were quite miserable. The trails had turned into muddy river that I fell in (and just laid my head down for a minute). Another area was so flooded with water that it was higher than my knee level when I sloshed through. I think my dog was swimming.

    From the parking lot we were able to hitch a ride to Mint Trailhead and were able to change our clothes and dry out finally!

    I would love to visit again!

    If you wonder why my bag was so heavy, check out here to see what I carry with me for camping. If you’d like to try out tent camping with dogs, here’s how, and if you’re looking for winter dog gear, first aid kits for dogs, or just other adventures, check out the links!

  • Guide to a well-dressed Dog: Vizsla Jackets and Sweaters

    Guide to a well-dressed Dog: Vizsla Jackets and Sweaters

    Are you confused with the amount of options of canine jackets and sweaters available on the market? Or maybe you’ve tried several and find nothing fits your skinny long dog properly? There is such a variety of dog breeds from short and stout to long and lean and unless your dog magically fits the “standard” size it can be hard to find something that fits and stays on an athletic crazy running machine. We’ve tried so many different options and this is what I’ve learned.

    Velcro vs Buckles vs Zippers

    This is a big point of difference in choosing a jacket. Ideally you find a jacket with the least amount of connection/adjustment points. This can be counterintuitive as the more adjustment points, the easier it is to get a good fit right? Perhaps, they’re more adjustable, however these jackets will rub more, and will also come off easier with an active playing dog. Jackets with 3-5 Velcro panels are the bane of my existence. They look awful and these panels will come off easily over time.

    Velcro is great for easy of use and quickness, for fitting different dogs without adjustment, and for not rubbing or chaffing on the pup. The downside to Velcro is that it can come off with thick brush, with deep snow collecting, and with rough play. Velcro also degrades with use, especially the cheaper Velcro (there’s a huge difference in quality) so make sure that Velcro jackets are high quality if you want them to last.

    Buckles solve alot of Velcro issues such as inadvertently coming off after rubbing past bush, or a dog pulling the panel with play. Buckles snap easily and can adjust with straps. Sometimes buckles are used in conjunction with Velcro for the best of both worlds. The problem with Buckles is that they don’t have a clean profile, they can rub or get in the way with harnesses, and they’re a small point of connection so jackets have to be structured well in order for them not to unravel or lose shape.

    Zippers are a very clean look and connect a large panel of fabric together. They’re wonderful not coming apart or wearing out, however they are not adjustable so the fit has to be somewhat perfect for only a zipper to be used in a jacket

    Finally, there are jackets and sweaters that do not have any attachment points and depend on the jacket fitting perfectly to the dog to not fall off. I love these the best, but they are the hardest to find and fit as your dog grows and changes!

    Fit for skinny dogs- length vs chest

    Fitting jackets on different shaped dogs are difficult. I find most of the mass produced clothing fit a stout, somewhat rounder and and shorter dog than mine. I’ve had to find specialty dog clothing to fit my Vizslas, or just accept that the length will be shorter and the stomach panel barely covering. These jackets usually twist on the dogs as they run, or leave their backs and stomach open to the elements.

    Here’s a list of dog companies that make long/skinny/lean dog jackets, many of these are custom

    Voyagers K9 Apparel

    Our most used rain jackets and winter jackets come from this brand. They are breed-specific fits and are easy-on easy off with Velcro. There are two Velcro straps which really help keep the jacket on crazy dogs and it’s great quality (I have much experience with sewing and Velcro). The fleece is also very high quality and extra thick. No matter the amount of washing these jackets have gone through, they haven’t seemed to degrade.

    Voyagers is run by an American family with the mother sewing all the jackets and they can be custom to your own dog for an extra fee. There can be added harness holes and custom shapes for an oddly shaped dog. Although puppy teeth and barbed wire will tear the fabric, it holds up much better than other cheaper jackets. *wash these jackets with tech wash

    K9 Voyagers winter jacket

    Chillydogs.ca

    These jackets (the standard option) fit Vizslas perfectly. They also have long and lean (greyhounds) and another cut for short and broad dogs (Bullies). The jackets use both buckles and Velcro, and are quick to put on, never coming off because of the buckle. The winter option covers the front of the chest and has a fleece-lined shell for added wearability. The neck is a bit shorter and less thick fleece than Voyagers but there is the chest panel and buckle. I find the Alpine Blazer to be a great all-round jacket for those days that aren’t too cold, or too wet but just chilly enough to need a jacket.

    Chillydogs Great White North Winter Dog Coat
    Chillydogs Alpine Blazer

    Hurtta

    Hurtta is a company from Finland that have recently expanded to North America. They have some really interesting products that I haven’t seen elsewhere. I especially love the Eco line that uses 100% recycled polyester fabric. Not all Hurtta jackets fit skinny/lean/hairless dogs well but the ones that do are keepers!

    Hurtta’s Expedition Parka was made especially for lean dogs without undercoats like Vizslas. The fabric hugs the dogs (vs a shell that leaves so much air between jacket and muscles) and includes adjustment points as well as a snow trap on the neck that really keeps heat in. There’s a fully chest panel, and the jacket is coated with water wicking properties (not fully waterproof but fine with snow). The jackets use only one buckle but stay in place really nicely.

    Another jacket I love and use is the Extreme Overall. This one is the warmest one-piece clothing I have for the dogs. It’s good for about -15 (once it gets to -20 for 5 hours we switch to layers). The overalls take a bit of time to put the dogs in, but there’s many adjustment points and they fit the dogs well.

    Vizsla Tea

    This is the only brand I haven’t tried but I would recommend if you’re in Europe. I’ve heard good things and they’re made specifically for the Vizsla breed.

    K9topcoat

    I’ve more recently been using K9Top Coat in the winters. Because of our wet and cold climate, we’ve been using the Weatherproof Bodysuit that has the most water-repellency. I haven’t tried the other suits they make, but there are lots of options for dogs that have allergies, injuries, etc. The weatherproof suits have fitted my Vizslas very well (cut the legs off higher or they will snowball). They’re perfect for layering underneath jackets and for camping.

    Bravehound/Redbarkshop

    If style is what you’re looking for, look no further than Bravehound. These are custom made with Vizslas in mind. I sell them in my shop with the measurements taken from 100s of Vizslas in 5 sizes. The sweaters are hand-knit and stretch perfectly as the dog breathes and runs.

    I’ve never been able to find a sweater that actually fit the length of a Vizsla and stretched nicely over their chests so I started bringing these in for sale. There’s a hole for a collar, and my oldest sweater is still lasting nicely, although these aren’t for rough play or running through the bush (They’ve survived all that, but I try not to!). Also machine washable (all the jackets on this list are!), and finally 100% wool.

    There’s also a more fitted vest for sports in the winter and keep the dogs warm. The Bravehound wool gilet is zippered and allows for easy sprinting while keeping the dogs warm (perfect for Cross Country Skiing).

    Bravehound Technical Gilet Vest

    Threadzntails

    You cannot find better fitting onesies (and other shapes) as these are made custom to your dog’s size. They even have matching human hoodies if that’s your thing! Everything is custom to exactly what you want, including collar style, legs, stomach paneling (girls and boys), and fabric type and color or design. For the customization I think the pricing is extremely fair. Since there are no zippers or Velcro, these are very easy to wear, but take a bit of time to slip on. I have friends that are addicted to getting these as they’re so fun to design yourself.

    Puppies

    I think I found this jacket for $8 in the clearance bin and it was just fine for puppy Whiskey

    For puppies I always suggest getting something second-hand to last for the first half-year. The jackets I recommend are not cheap, and unless you want to splurge (or have an ongoing amount of puppies in your household) it may not be money well spent. Puppies also have shark-teeth and are pretty unforgiving in their playing and tumbling so it can be best to wait until after they stop shredding everything in sight. Whiskey had a cheap $8 jacket that was torn and handed down to someone else after she outgrew it.

    Price and Longevity

    As with most things, you tend to get what you pay for. I’ve tried the cheaper mass-produced clothing out there and as well as being poorly fitted, they do not last very long. Whiskey isn’t a hard playing dog, but we’ve ripped several jackets and worn out the Velcro in others. Other times the jackets with tiny stomach panels (many just have a strap) cause the jacket to fall to one side and just get trampled or torn. I love jackets that last, fit perfectly, and look great!

    Rain and Waterproofness

    Voyagers k9 has the most waterproof jacket in the market

    I find most jackets that are “waterproof” or “weatherpoof” will not actually keep a dog dry for 3 hours in a downpour, or wet snowfall. Now, I’m assuming most people do not take their dogs in drenching conditions hiking, but it’s a really good way to test waterproofness in dog jackets. The most waterproof Dog Jacket we’ve found is the Voyagers K9 Apparel. They’re the only ones that have stood up to pouring conditions and are still fully waterproof years later.

    Since I take out multiple dogs at a time, I will use all the jackets I have, and Voyagers consistently keeps the dog dry compared to others. However, nothing will keep Bourbon warm and dry when she jumps in and swims after ducks in the winter… I also highly suggest keeping your jackets (no matter the brand) clean and using a proper “tech” wash to clean the jackets and keep them as waterproof as possible

    Snow and ice

    Whiskey “swimming” in powder

    You make think any jacket that is warm should be fine in the snow, however I’ve found some are much better than others. If snow is going to touch the jacket, it can collect inside (especially those with dogs that like to swim in snow) and it can also cling to certain fabrics, and with body warmth, melt, then turn into ice. There are certain pieces that can freeze up and ice over rubbing the dogs as they run.

    Anything with a stomach panel, especially one that covers the front of the stomach will collect snow with a swimming dog. An example is the Hurtta Expedition Parka. As much as I love this jacket, if Bourbon runs through deep snow, the snow will collect and stay in the chest, and then melt and hold iceballs next to her stomach. The Chillydogs winter jacket is similar in this way. This isn’t a problem for running around in packed snow, leashed walks, and dogs that don’t enjoy swimming.

    I’ve also noticed the Hurtta Overalls legs get icy, as well as the k9topcoat weatherproof bottom legs get iced up. The best option I’ve found for cold legs that need coverage is using the backcountry gaiters.

    Citywear and Loungewear

    It can look ridiculous but these dogs do get cold and sweaters or onesies are really amazing! They’re wonderful underlayers, and great if you keep your dogs in a cold car for competitions or roadtrips, for car camping in the winter, cold cabin days, or just an on-leash walk in the city. Perhaps you have a calmer senior dog that chills quickly with arthritis, have a dog recovering from injury, or a dog that refuses to potty when it’s cold outside? A warm sweater or jacket can be wonderful!

    Lifejackets for Dogs

    There are not too many companies that make dog lifejackets, but here’s a couple to check out.

    Ruffwear – Our favorite that we’re currently using, easy adjustments, hidden straps. The biggest selling point is the front strap, where most jackets are thin and can come out of place, Ruffwear has a thicker front band and the strap doesn’t chafe

    Hurtta – I have not tried but I trust this company

    Outward Hound – A lower price point, I just don’t love the strap system, but works great

    Kurgo – I haven’t tried this one, but Kurgo is a well trusted brand

    Dog Life Jackets are really area dependent (where you can buy them) but I would advise for less straps flapping around and more coverage, You want to be able to lift your dog in any position from the handle and not have your dog fall out or chafe. It’s also really helpful to have a leash attachment point. Since your dog’s life may depend on the life jacket working, I wouldn’t get something cheap off Amazon.

    I’m not sure this brand as I borrowed this lifejacket but it kept Bourbon safe!

    Hunting/protective

    I don’t have much information on protective wear for hunting but guess who does… Accidental BirdDog! Her blog posts have loads of information on hunting and this one covers some protective clothing for hunting dogs.

    Layering- protective and cold

    Whiskey has k9topcoat tights underneath and Bourbon has Backcountry Gaiters as well as Expedition Parka

    We are masters at layering! Hiking in the mountains, and backcountry camping involves adjusting and changing to the weather. I normally carry a couple pieces of clothing for the dogs when we are backcountry camping and layer as needed. Sometimes in the winter, we will start on a warm day and the clouds and snow and wind will come in on the peak and I’ll have to redress the girls right on the trail in order for them to survive.

    Do not be shy from layering, even if it looks ridiculous. I typically like a onesie/tights underneath a warm jacket, and some sort of boots if needed. Dog Googles are great if the wind really picks up and starts shooting snow at your face. If you can barely open your eyes in the wind, your dog will appreciate googles (but these do take training to wear).

  • Amazing Adventure Camping at Floe Lake (Rockwall Trail) with Dogs

    Amazing Adventure Camping at Floe Lake (Rockwall Trail) with Dogs

    The Draw

    Just google Floe Lake and Rockwall trail and you’ll know why it’s one of the most popular trails and locations. In fact, that’s probably how you got to this blogpost. It’s accessible, and possible as a day hike or run. The entire 55km Rockwall trail can be done in 3-5 days but the highlight is definitely Floe Lake and Numa Pass. Usually most people hike from Paint Pots to Floe Lake and we wanted to do the same, but booking the trail because our biggest issue.

    The view from camp

    Dogs are allowed on Rockwall trail but must be on leash, and there is wildlife (more about that later) that you must be prepared for (even on leash!).

    Floe Lake in the morning with overhead clouds

    Booking

    The Rockwall trail is a classic of the Canadian Rockies and difficult to book campsites in! I waited in line online when the booking opened and was 7000s on cue. By the time I got to book, most everything was taken. Floe Lake campsites is one of the most popular backcountry sites in the Rockies so of course it was taken. I booked some random days in Tumbling creek campground and Numa creek campground and hoped for cancellations. You can hike into each campground from the road and I just really wanted to see Floe lake with the dogs.

    The weather was mixed, some rain and some sun!

    Eventually, we checked daily and were able to secure cancellations at Floe Lake during our vacation time. We booked every cancellation we could and joined up the dates (and cancelled the ones we were not going to use). Unfortunately the way the booking system works is that your reservation fee is separate than a booking fee and you do not get the booking fee back. In the end there’s no benefit to cancelling an unused reservation (you will not get your money back) other than to let someone else use the campsite. I strongly encourage everyone to cancel unused campsites though, because it’s so limited and for all the evenings we were at Floe, there were usually unused tent pads.

    One of our day treks took us to a quiet pass

    Our Plan

    Because we were not able to book campgrounds in order for the Rockwall trail, we just aimed to book whatever we could at Floe Lake and do day hikes from the campground. Since Numa Pass and Floe were the highlights of Rockwall, we figured we would explore Numa Pass and check out other areas we could hike to within a day. Everything would be limited to what the dogs could do (Bodhi gets heat stroke and isn’t the most agile of dogs) and what we felt like!

    Above Floe Lake looking onto Numa Pass

    The Hike In: Floe Lake Trailhead to Floe Lake

    The hike in is not technically difficult, and about 10.5km from the Floe lake Trailhead. Most of the trail is narrow with a slight incline across a forest that is bare from a recent forest fire. When we hiked in, the trail was very overgrown to the point your couldn’t see your own feet and made for difficult footing with a dog on leash in front and a huge pack with awkward balancing. The trail is mostly exposed so if you’re heading out in the summer with dogs that are sensitive to heat, head out as early as possible.

    Hiking into Floe from Floe Lake Trailhead

    At some point near the end of the trail (at 8km) the trail climbs up dramatically and then you’re at the lake. There is a couple water sources that may or may not be running in the summer but we had access to water before the climb. This was my first hike with a pack in the year so I really struggled in the heat! Erica was kind enough to wait for me in the bug-infested breaks I had to take. I also lost a water filter I had not secured well enough to the front of the pack. All and all, not my best hike, but we did get there eventually!

    A rest log on the way into Floe Lake

    Wildlife

    Normally most people are worried about the Grizzlies and Black bears but we found porcupines and squirrels to be the most dangerous. Squirrels and chipmunks are awful because they run across your path without warning and then your dog instantaneously jumps at them pulling you and your 40lb bag down. Porcupines were a bit of a surprise! We encountered one on the hike up to Floe (halfway up the incline, so about kilometer 9 going in). It was right off the trail hidden, so Bodhi almost got quilled, on leash, on the trail before Erica saw what it was.

    Numa Pass, the porcupine was between this spot and the lake

    The second porcupine was between Floe Lake heading up Numa Pass, about 1km in. We never actually saw it, but Bourbon somehow got quilled by stepping on a quill on the ground after the dogs seemed VERY interested in sniffing around the area. Needless to say, keep an eye out for the creatures!

    Camping at Floe Lake

    Camping with a view

    The tent pads at Floe are all over a wide area, and not organized in any way we could understand. The best site with a view over the lake is the first ones you see as you hike in from the Floe trailhead. We chose one further away from others with dogs and settled in just as it started raining.

    There were 4 tables at the food area and a couple beaches

    There is a wonderful eating area with bear lockers right by the lake that has the best views. We loved starting and ending our day there, watching the light move across the mountains and lake and were always able to find a place to sit at a table or on the beach. The first couple days there were still ice floes moving across the lake but eventually they melted by the time we left.

    We fit 2 humans and 3 dogs into a decade old 3 person tent

    We met a couple dogs each day we were at the campsite but were able to steer clear of them without issues. Every evening we moved our tent closer and closer to the “best” spot and the last evening we snagged a photo-worthy tentpad!

    Day treks and scrambles from Floe Lake

    Looking down on Numa Pass

    In the end we stayed at Floe for 4 days, 3 evenings leaving us 2 days to explore. The first day took us to Numa Pass, up to a couple viewpoints, and a look at Numa Mountain. From the viewpoint, we then spotted some lakes in the far distance so we aimed for those (no trails, just wandering). We scrambled over a boulder field and scree and as the weather changed we decided to stop, take some photos and head back.

    Going for a walk!

    I had seen some treks to Numa Peak before we hiked out but there was very limited information on if the peak was doable with dogs or not. The next day we decided to aim for Numa and head back if it ended up being too difficult. It’s always hard to know how tough something is until you actually try the scree and test the angle. We made it to just below the notch of the peak before we stopped for lunch and called it. It would have been sketchy to get Bodhi past the point with exposure and the views would not have been better. We were just meters from the peak and were further along than we had been expecting!

    Looking at Numa Peak
    Numa Peak, we made it just before the notch

    Numa Peak was such a highlight, but I would not recommend it for people and dogs that are not comfortable hiking and scrambling. You can walk right up to the scree and see for yourself but there is no rescue or rangers here so you must be self sufficient and be extra careful if your dog is not full capable and under control. I also recommend a harness made for lifting, and paw care if your dog’s paws are not weathered for scree.

    The best views

    Would I hike the Rockwall trail again?

    Oh yes!! This was such a lovely location, very peaceful for how popular it is. Definitely be aware that you are in the backcountry and take extra precautions but Floe Lake was such a highlight of my year. I’m so thankful I have a friend to do this with, one that understands my dog limitations and is willing to camp, hike, explore and scramble with me!

  • Vizsla’s first Heat- What to Know, How to keep Camping

    Vizsla’s first Heat- What to Know, How to keep Camping

    It’s becoming more common in North America not to spay or neuter a dog until they’re “fully developed” as it’s finally being recognized that the previous recommendations to spay at 6-8 months, before a dog goes through a heat cycle, is not generally healthy. Rescues tend to spay even earlier, some as early as 8 weeks! Reasoning is that early spaying prevents unplanned mating and litters and the unwanted dogs that end up killed in shelters. While this is still an issue in some locations, it’s also quite easy to prevent unwanted pregnancy in a pet dog so I wrote this to help out owners that may be nervous about managing a dog in heat.

    Some rescues spay a puppy this young

    So why wait?

    Waiting until the dog reaches puberty is now generally recommended so the dogs can naturally develop with hormones from their sex organs. This is proven to reduce cancers, orthopedic issues, behavior issues, urinary incontinence, however increases the chance of mammary tumors and cancers, as well as testicular cancer (just the same as removing the breasts will remove the chance of breast cancer). A study with Vizslas in particular show that neutered dogs (between 6 and 12 months) had significant higher chances of mast cell cancer, lymphoma, all other cancers, fear of storms, and those before 6 months had increased chances of a behavioral disorder.

    Life continues with a diaper

    I chose to wait with Whiskey and paid for an OSS spay (more about that here) that keeps an ovary so she still has her heat without bleeding. Whiskey went through several heats before her surgery. With Bourbon, the advice from my vet now is not to undergo an unnecessary surgery if possible so we will wait until there is a reason to.

    Owning an intact dog is definitely more hassle and work. Not only do you need to keep a close eye on a female in heat, but you need to deal with bleeding, a potential change in personality, and it can be extra challenging around other dogs. At first I was quite overwhelmed with the process, but after a heat I didn’t find it difficult to deal with.

    Bourbon hiking and adventuring during her first heat

    A Vizsla’s heat cycle

    A female Vizsla’s first heat can be anywhere from 8 months to 1.5 years old but typically 10 months to 1 year (this changes in breeds, typically depending on weight/size). After the first heat, their heat cycle is usually between every 6 months to a year. Whiskey had her first heat just after she turned 1 year old, and Bourbon just before her birthday. I believe Bourbon was first out of her sisters. Bourbon’s heat cycle is every 6 months, just like her mother, and Whiskey is once a year. It takes a couple years for their cycles to regulate so be patient. The first heat is NOT usually typical of the rest of them. Ask your breeder about your dog’s mother’s heat and you might get a hint of what may happen!

    Signs before

    With Whiskey I had lots of signs before her first heat (about 2-3 weeks notice), with Bourbon there was none and it’s always been a surprise. Whiskey is more in tuned with her emotions and body, while Bourbon is a little bit of a jackrabbit with a small attention span and is harder to read.

    Whiskey’s signs at the beginning of her heat (before bleeding)

    • Less appetite, skipping meals
    • More socializing, interest in saying hi to dogs (both female and male)
    • Dogs are more interested in sniffing
    • Swelling of vulva
    • licking her genitals
    • marking (pee marking everywhere)
    • discharge

    Bourbon’s signs

    • Nothing, then SURPRISE

    Other signs your dogs might have

    • Change in behavior (clingy, sleepy, personality change)
    • Aggression to male dogs

    Changes during a dog’s heat

    I never noticed a behavioral change in either of my girls although it’s been regularly reported that Vizslas in particular will get VERY extra Velcro and needy. They can be uncomfortable, moody, basically just like human females and need extra emotional support. The big difference I’ve noticed is that my girls are very social especially with good looking males! Whiskey is a gigantic flirt, however it’s not with every male. She is particular with her ‘type’ and will be very upset at unwanted advances from the ‘wrong’ dog.

    Whiskey will ask to go outside to mark and look for males during her heat, and will wander further and approach dogs (she normally never approaches dogs) and show them her rear. It’s very common for dogs to be more tired and uncomfortable but I haven’t noticed that with either of my girls. We continue our regular hikes and walks (just further away from others) and I do not notice a change in energy although it’s very common.

    Dog diapers

    Bleeding and diapers

    Bleeding is possibly the largest annoyance you’ll have to deal with, unless you own a male unfixed dog. Depending on your living conditions, you could just lay out blankets in a crate or bed and change those frequently. Vizslas keep themselves very clean and you might be surprised how little you have to clean! I’ve also heard it can be more comfortable to air out and not wear a diaper all day long if it’s not needed.

    On the other hand, diapers are very handy if you do not have a large uncarpeted area for your dog, or you are sleeping together in a car or tent (camping is extra awkward!). My girls will bleed for about 3 weeks, the last week turning less bloody and more clear. This last week when the blood stops, is actually the most fertile point and you need to be extra cautious of meeting males. You’ll also notice your girl ‘flagging’ with her tail to the side when she meets other dogs (or smells them). Keep your dog supervised the entire heat, but keep an even more close watch (and tighter leash) during the stage when they flag because this is when they may escape and when they are most fertile.

    The pink is Seasonals Diaper, the other is Amazon brand Teamoy lined diapers both Medium

    We’ve tried 3 types of diapers. The first were home-made, just an old pair of panties tied tight with a hole for her tail and a panty liner. This…was a bit of a mess and Whiskey could escape from them easily. The second was a store-bought one and I put liners in (brand was Seasonals), and the third, my favorite is a washable one with built in liners (see photos).

    Because our dogs have such a skinny stomach and slim buttocks, you may need to size down if the diapers go by weight of dog. I ended up sewing extra velcro onto the diapers because Whiskey was so skinny. The important thing to remember is to take the diapers off before they go outside otherwise they’ll pee in it. This isn’t too hard to remember but can be quite the game when you’re camping and your dog jumps in and out of the tent all night long.

    Camping with your dog in heat

    Because we camp in an area with bears, cougars, and coyotes, blood needs to be contained and sealed off. I take freezer ziplock bags to put used liners in, and then put the ziplock bags into drybags and everything is stored with our food and garbage overnight (100m+ away hung on a tree or in a buried bear bag). I will also bring dog wipes to deal with cleaning, extra water, and lots of panty liners. Even if the diapers have built in liners, it’s more efficient to bring liners than 4 pairs of diapers if you need to carry in and out. Bourbon sleeps inside my sleeping bag the diaper needs to fit very well! I’ve done 3 camping trips with Bourbon in heat, in 3 different tents without issue.

    Males and interactions with dogs

    During the heat, both females and males will be very interested in sniffing my dogs. I normally walk in quieter locations but during heat, will flat out avoid certain places that may have more dogs. I will always ask (if I cannot see) if a dog is female or male, fixed or intact before they meet. Whiskey can be very aggressive in flirting with a dog so if the dog is small, or shy, or finds her advances unwanted, we stay away and are leashed.

    Whiskey will flirt with all dogs, female or male, and even old seniors so I really need to control her around others! Bourbon’s still very new and is not spayed (Whiskey has her OSS spay) so I do not entirely know her personality during her heat around other dogs. Her first heat she showed no interest in males she met (very few, none intact) but her second heat she was singing to the boys (she stayed at her breeder with intact males). No matter what, keep your dog under control and supervise them even in a fenced yard (dogs can mate between fences).

    Bourbon in heat hanging out with her sister River

    The easiest thing if you have an unfixed male living with you, is to see if someone can take your male for a couple weeks. If not, separate them in different rooms or crate one at a time. If there are several males in a household, they can lose their appetite and fight amongst each other so you might need to separate the males from each other too. It goes to say, do not let your female in the yard unattended, do not let your males out together unattended.

    My experience with my girls in heat

    When I lived in the city, I would drive 45mins away for off leash walks on extremely quiet trails and wake up earlier for city walks. I don’t mind letting Whiskey say hi to other dogs on leash that are fixed, but under no circumstances do we allow humping (from any dog, regardless of sex or neutering). Even though Whiskey is spayed, she can still tie and that can be traumatic and physically painful for her. We once stayed at an Airbnb cabin out of town while Whiskey was in heat and literally had the “boys” come to the yard and wait for her to come out.

    Overall it’s not been too much work outside of managing diapers as the dogs run in and out of the house, car, tent, etc. Most of my friends have fixed males that do not have any interest in my girls in heat, and we do not meet too many dogs on a daily basis. I work from home now and no longer need daycare or a dog walker that insists on a spayed female (this can depend on cities and what is the norm). Some of my friends have Vizslas that have a hard time and are quite depressed or mopey but my girls seem unfazed so far (Bourbon hasn’t had enough heats for me to be sure). Whiskey has great recall even in heat, is spayed, so she’s off leash in most cases, but Bourbon has a very long range so she needs special care, more on-leash time, and remote walks.


  • What you need in a Hiking Dog’s First Aid Kit

    What you need in a Hiking Dog’s First Aid Kit

    Already have a human first aid kit for hiking and camping? Wondering what ELSE you might need for your dog? There’s no need to double up commercial first-aid kits for you and your pup as most elements can be shared but there are some extras to bring and take into consideration. The dog-specific pieces can also be shared with humans and you might find them quite useful!

    Listed in detail below, some items that are good to have at home, in the car, on the trail

    Whiskey and I have been hiking since she was a puppy and with the addition of Bourbon, we’ve had to deal with lots of minor issues while in the backcountry and on roadtrips without reception or vets nearby. Even at home, we’re able to deal with minor emergencies without having to pay for a vet visit.

    When I’m hiking I always have a small first-aid kit and I add extra pieces depending on the length of the hike and the risk factors as well as the size of the pack I’ll be taking. I’ve never seen most of these products listed in ready-made canine first-aid kits that you can purchase so I thought this list might be good for people that are active and in the wilderness with their dogs.

    Consider where you are going, the environment and temperature, as well as any medical issues your own dog might have. Always bring extra clothing for warmth, and shade. And let me know in comments on anything I may have missed!

    Trail Dog First Aid Checklist

    Items in your Human First-Aid Kit should have that can be shared with your Pet

    • Gauze
    • Adhesive tape
    • Swabs
    • Ice Pack
    • Scissors/ knife
    • Gloves
    • Bandages
    • Alcohol wipes
    • Saline
    • Tweezers
    • Headlamp/flashlight
    • Splint
    • Eye wash- non medicated eyewash can be used on dogs
    • Polysporin/ antibiotic ointment
    • All-purpose skin soother -Skincare for sunburns, rashes, chapped lips, bug bites, and healing cuts and scrapes
    • water-proof bag
    • towel
    This is minimum what I carry in my daypack
    This all fits into a small bag in previous photo called “first aid kit”

    Trail Specific First Aid Kit Items

    • Blister Packs
    • Zip Ties
    • Lighter
    • Water Purification Tablets
    • Emergency Blanket
    • Electrolyes
    • Multi-use tool/ Swiss Army Knife

    Trail Dog First Aid Kit additions

    • Benedryl (Diphenhydramine), Reactine (Cetirizine)– Pills are the most used item in my first-aid (human or dog). These I use for any allergic reaction including bug bites
    • Tick remover– if you have a chance of ticks in the area, clearly also for humans
    • Tweezers– very useful with the tick remover but also splinters, cactus spines, shards of things that get imbeded
    • Pup Wax -nose and paw wax balm for dogs, I use this nightly when hiking on boulder fields and the paws are about to be cracked (or are already cracked) to keep them moisturized as well as dry noses
    • Dr Dobias Skin Spray– Wonderful for skin scrapes and closed wounds as well as insect bites. Also great on humans
    • EMT Gel– Fantastic for paw cracks and tears in the skin. I was able to stave off Bourbon’s paw fully cracking with this gel, pupwax, wrapping and a bootie while hiking for 8 days in a row.
    • Duct Tape– as much as the adhesive tape in a regular first-aid kit might help humans, I’ve found Duct Tape is very helpful for dog patients. It’s also wonderful for fixing gear that breaks and holding boots in place for crazy running Vizslas.
    • Superglue– or stapler but superglue is much smaller to carry on treks out (many of my friends will carry a stapler to staple wounds)
    • Dog-friendly bug/tick spray– I’m still working on finding the magical dog-friendly bug spray but I’ve used Cedarwood-based, citronella based, and I would like to try PERMETHRIN next. Regardless, throw a pet-friendly spray in
    • Emergency Bootie– slightly larger size than usual, universal boot (not left/right) to accommodate bandages underneath if needed. I use muttlucks and duct tape this one when needed.
    • Hydrogen Peroxide– to in duce vomiting immediately after ingesting a non-corrosive poison (do not induce vomiting if you think it might be corrosive), commonly while hiking, if your dog eats mushrooms, or human feces that may be laced with drugs, anything that may have drugs (including edibles), poisoned meat, etc
    • Activated Charcoal+ powdered milk– if your dog has eaten something and is reacting (you did not induce vomiting in time) already reacting to the effects. I add the milk to make it more palatable and it also coats the stomach to prevent absorption while the charcoal works to bind the poison. Mix with water into a paste with a syringe pump or bowl if your dog will eat it.
    • Vet Wrap– Extremely useful for paw injuries, holding bandages in place, or sprains. I use it for myself when I consistently sprain my ankle. Sticks to itself and is non-adhesive to anything else. Also useful for boots and harnesses that rub.
    • Gravol/Famotidine– Whiskey has a sensitive stomach so this is more Whiskey-specific. When her stomach is very gurgling and she’s not wanting to eat, I give her Famotidine and it settles. Whatever drugs your dog may need, of course, bring some in your first aid kit
    • Emergency leash/ Rope + carabiner– leashes and collars break or get lost, an extra rope can really help, be made into a quick harness, or help muzzle a dog in pain.
    • Dog sling/bag/ability to carry out an injured pet– depending on the size of your dog, whom with, and where you are going, make sure you have the ability to carry your dog out
    • Bandana or cloth– you may need to drench a piece of cloth in water to cool a dog down, and emergency it can be very helpful to cover your dog’s eyes, or muzzle your dog while working on an injury, especially if you are alone

    DO NOT SHARE

    Be cautious of these items and research ahead of time if the ones in your kit are dog-friendly or not

    medications– some medications can be shared with your dog, and some not. Make sure you have an understanding of the dosage and which are poisonous, this includes medicated eyedrops
    creams/oils– some ingredients that can be used for humans like certain essential oils can be dangerous for dogs
    bug spray– DEET is poisonous to dogs, even while spraying, make sure your dog is upwind
    sun screen– Many types of sunscreen are potentially toxic if if a dog licks it off

    Keep your puppies safe!

    [wps_products product_id=”7342189740231″]

  • the Best Tents and Considerations for Camping with Dogs

    the Best Tents and Considerations for Camping with Dogs

    Camping with dogs can mean freedom and an escape from the city, but it can also have it’s own complications, especially if it’s your first time or you camp solo. A good tent can really ease the transition and prevent accidents that might happen. There is a large variety of tents prices to go with those and since this your “home” while outdoors, it really is worth choosing wisely.

    Prepare

    So you want to go camping but your dog’s never been in a tent? After you purchase one, it’s a good idea to set it up at home, or in the backyard and take a nap together inside. Work on going in and out with treats and teach your pup it’s a good place. Check out this other post I wrote about first time camping with a dog and things to think about, as well as how to introduce the tent. Just please do not zip your dog inside the tent alone unless your dog is very chill, trained, and calm.

    Whiskey with my 1ppl Big Agnes UL fishhook- there are no zippers

    A Large Doorway

    When choosing a tent, look for a larger doorway. Doorways that are small and narrow will be difficult to get in and out when you are stepping over a sleeping pup, and can be frustrating at night. You want a good zipper that doesn’t snag, and ideally several options to open it quickly from inside and out. It’s great to have space to put a towel on the ground to clean paws before they jump onto your sleeping bag, and also space to put shoes, a bag, easy access to leashes. Finally you want to have a wide sightline outside for your dog, approaching animals, and anything else. The more animals you have, the more you will appreciate a wide entryway.

    I’ve now upgraded to a larger 2ppl Nemo Dragonfly tent with 2 dogs

    Mesh

    I cannot stress to you how much a good quality mesh is important with dog nails. UL or Ultra lightweight tents sacrifice tough materials including mesh for weight so it’s easier to carry but this lightweight mesh is very easy to puncture. Whiskey likes to “paw” at the doorway to enter and my heavier tents have withstood this. There are many snags in the mesh, but no holes but I’ve heard so many dogs ruining the popular UL Hubba Hubba mesh trying to jump out at the wrong moment.

    This Marmot Ajax 3ppl tent is well over a decade old and still going

    Freestanding

    Some tents, especially lightweight tents can be non-freestanding where you need to stake lines in order to create the tent shape. They prioritize weight over convivence and can also use trekking poles as tent poles. I don’t recommend these for dogs for several reasons. The more lines you have running from the tent, the more entanglement you’ll get with legs and leashes. Bourbon seems to have fun pulling out pegs on my last trip and the inside of my tent tends to wander with two dogs so a strong, freestanding tent is my goal. If your tent structure goes down every time a stake gets pulled, it could get frustrating! These tents also take longer to set up and especially with multiple dogs, rain, and wildlife, you just might want to have less complications in life! Lastly, I camp in rocky locations and places where pegging isn’t really an option, so a freestanding tent is a must.

    Group 8 day backpacking trip

    Pockets

    I LOVE pockets! Pockets in tents are amazing. There’s always collars, leashes, sprays, towels, and a multitude of things that need to be packed away in it’s own place. I always put my headlamp, dog collars, and first aid things right next to my head. Pockets are also great for drying out whatever the dogs get muddy, and keeping the tent floor from becoming a huge mess when they start digging into your sleeping bag.

    My cheaper, heavier tent withstood the snow and wind better than the UL tents my friends had

    Footprint/Flooring

    Buy it, use it! Spend the extra cash for a footprint and use it, or a tarp is just as good. A thicker tent may not need a footprint (I don’t always use one myself when it’s dry) but lighter tents will need one and it will keep your tent lasting longer and dryer and prevent abrasions from rocks and dog paws digging.

    I suggest a footprint with snow or wet ground

    Single/Double wall

    Some lighter tents or cheaper tents may be single-walled. They tend to be solid so water does not go through but if pressed, water will condense through. These will not be as ventilated as double walled tents that will have mesh as an inner layer with a waterproof fly. I highly suggest double walled tents. Many dogs will like to lay in a corner of the tent pushing against the tent walls and if it’s a single layer, can bring water in. The single layer laminated wall is also the only layer between you and the elements so if it rips, you will need to pray you have enough duct tape! When the weather gets too warm or stuffy, it’s also nice to be able to take off the rainfly and let the tent air out or even enjoy the stars! But if your dog isn’t feeling safe open to the elements (many dogs feel uneasy) you can put the fly back on and create a closed off den.

    This is a cheaper Coleman 6ppl tent we car-camped out of for a month and half

    Car Camping

    With weight not a problem, I would suggest a large tent you can stand inside (check the height) and a second-hand or affordable one. You don’t need lightweight, and most tents these days are made well enough to withstand wind, rain, and typical use. The ability to stand-in and change or wrangle dogs without kneeling is SO helpful. Unless you’re camping more than 30 days a year, most cheaper tents will work just fine. We forgot our tent on our trip to Alaska and bought a cheap Coleman tent at Canadian Tire that lasted the entire trip fine under all weather and even crazy winds. With cheap tents, expect to replace pegs and take a little bit extra time to put together. The poles may have cheaper elastic but that’s also easily fixed with duct tape. Our North Face tent was much better made and still survives to this day, but it’s heavier (better fabric), packs easier, and has better zippers. If this is your first time out camping, put your money elsewhere (like a good mat!).

    This is my 4ppl Northface tent for car-camping that you can stand up in

    Backcountry Camping

    This is where weight and packability matters. For most brands, there are UL tents of various sorts and a cheaper line of tents. Even though the UL tents tend to be more expensive, I do not suggest them because the material is easier to break and do not stand up to dog use well. Unless you have one well trained dog and weight is of utmost importance, I would suggest a heavier, cheaper tent and take on the extra 2lbs it may weigh. Either way, bring some duct tape on your trip in case something rips open and a big scoop of good humor! Camping with dogs is always interesting!

    A double walled tent allows you to take off the fly and enjoy the stars and breeze

    We’ve used the Marmot Ajax 3ppl tent for 2 of us and Whiskey for well over a decade. I’ve got a UL 1ppl tent for solo camping that’s only 2 lbs (it’s the Fishook tent with no zipper) but that would be too tight with 2 dogs, camera gear, and clothing. I still carry the 3ppl 6lb tent when just solo camping with Whiskey sometimes because it’s just so much more comfortable if the conditions are rainy. Being stuck in a 1ppl tent for a rainy evening or afternoon is SO uncomfortable and I would rather carry weight than be stuck in an awkward tight position. Researching further I just ordered the Nemo 2ppl tent as my new solo tent and I’ve been considering the Copper Spur 3ppl tent as a new 3ppl option but am holding back due to the flimsy material and huge cost. I think if I’m sharing a tent, then sharing the load would be acceptable.

    My heavier Marmot swallow 3ppl tent for winter camping

    Winter Camping

    I haven’t done too much backcountry snow camping but I did buy a heavier vintage tent for the purpose. It’s very warm, with loads of venting options, space, and can seal up tight if needed. Winter tents that are light are very expensive, so vintage was the way to go! Even though it’s not the latest tech, the huge zippers, heavy mesh make me so comfortable with dogs running in and out. The last time I used the tent it was actually too warm in the morning, and I haven’t found too many friends that want to winter camp so I just haven’t had the opportunity to use this one too often.

    FAQ

    What’s the best backcountry tent for 1 person and a dog?

    I would suggest a stand-alone, double walled, cross-bar 1 or 2 person tent to share with a dog. Crossbar tents are quick and easy to set up with a large door and slightly thicker mesh (not super UL). Make sure the zipper is well made and does not snag.

    What’s the best car camping tent for dogs?

    If you are starting out, get something that is easy for one person to set up (unless you always camp with multiple people)

    How do I teach dogs to camp in a tent?

    Check out this blog about first time camping with dogs!

    What other gear is good for camping with dogs?

    Here’s a blogpost on Our Best and Tested Gear for Camping with Dogs

  • How to: First time Camping in a Tent with Dogs

    How to: First time Camping in a Tent with Dogs

    Never been camping with your dog? Here’s the basics to get you thinking!

    Planning/Before

    -set up a tent in your home, or your backyard, go inside with your dog, bring lots of treats, and hang out to get them comfortable
    -zip up and down the tent while you are inside together
    -take your dog inside the tent after they are exercised and take a nap together
    -Open a door halfway and show them how to get in and out even if the doorway isn’t open all the way
    -Teach your dog to wait until you open the door to jump in
    -Teach your dog what the mesh is, that they cannot go through the mesh when it is closed
    -do not zip your dog inside the tent, with you outside (or vice versa) until you are confident they are calm
    -start with car camping, you always have a place to escape to, and you can easily bring more gear
    -make sure you camp with someone experienced or are comfortable camping alone, there’s nothing worse than having to take care of both your dog and a human!
    -choose a place to camp where you can easily walk your dog during the day, we always research trails around the campsite as well as trails while driving to and from the location. Do this before you are out of reception!
    -I advise to get tents that are not ultralight. Ultralight tents are have very thin mesh and materials and tend to rip quickly when a dog taps the material in order to get out. Duct tape is always a good idea!
    -here’s a post I wrote specifically about tents and dogs
    -Babywipes are always useful! Camping was never a clean activity!

    When you get to the site

    -go somewhere that isn’t packed with as much space as possible between campsites, book or choose a campsite away from bathrooms, perhaps in the corner of the campground where you will have the least amount of people wandering by
    – bring a long line to tie up your dog if they wander, a Tuflex check cord works the best as it doesn’t knot, is easy to clean, and is still flexible in cold weather
    -if there are bugs, see if you can bring natural bug repellent like citronella candles, read all the directions of bug repellents. Remember your dog is (most likely) smaller than you and are more effected by poisons. There are some bug sprays and electric repellents that state you cannot use when you are eating or around small ponds with fish (it poisons the water) or with babies or kids. I would not use these with pets!
    -a dog mat is always a good idea, even if you dog doesn’t need it, just to keep everything clean, and to have a “place” for your dog to return to on command.

    During

    -say hi to your neighbours if they’re friendly and introduce your dog, mention that it’s their first time camping and bring treats if it helps. Be really nice especially if they have kids or another dog.
    -walk your dog around the campground if he’s friendly
    -respect your neighbours and make sure you clean up after your dog
    -if your dog wakes up early or stays up late due to the unfamiliar territory, take him for a walk to tire him out
    -try and keep to any routines you might have at home (time you eat, sleep, bedtime routines)
    -close the fly so your dog cannot see outside if they are guarding, or barking at noises or people
    -keep an eye out for people passing by and work on rewarding your pup for not barking, and for being friendly, the site will probably be “his” territory so you’ll have to make sure your dog knows who’s in charge and that you have your eye on things
    -If you must leave your dog (to go to the bathroom or clean dishes for example), leave them in the car to avoid wildlife, strangers coming by, or whatever else may happen, do not leave your dog in the tent alone. I’ve had my tent “walk” after me on occasion. You can also leash your dog outside the bathroom or ask someone to keep them while you go.
    -keep a jar of treat (or kibble) around and use this as a training opportunity, although respect rules about food and wildlife, especially bears.

    Afterwards

    -Pick up after yourself and your pup when you leave the campground
    -Inspect your tent for any holes or damage and repair it before the next trip
    -If you hit any issues with camping, work on training at home before going out again. If there are issues guarding, or anxieties, you can practice at home or in a backyard before heading out
    -Make a list of equipment or situations that could be improved. Depending on where and how you camp, there are loads of gear and solutions that may be available. For instance my dogs prefer to sleep on my mat, in my sleeping bag no matter how many dog beds I bring, so I now have an extra long, extra wide mat and sleeping bag to house them. However while I’m not actively sleeping, I bring their own beds that can be dirtied and used in and out of the tent so they can go in and out of a bed while not making a mess out of mine.

  • Raw Dog Feeding- Affordable, Details, our Vancouver sources, and supplements

    Raw Dog Feeding- Affordable, Details, our Vancouver sources, and supplements

    1. Whiskey
    2. Bourbon
    3. Feeding details
    4. Proteins
    5. Extras
    6. Supplements
    7. Meal Bones
    8. Sample Meal
    9. Travel and Training
    10. Amount
    11. Benefits and Downsides
    12. Risks
    13. Switching
    14. Digestive Issues
    15. Sources

    Whiskey’s tummy

    When I first brought Whiskey home, she was eating kibble and for some reason, kibble just didn’t really make “sense” to me. I avoid highly processed food in general because it just doesn’t make me feel so good, and I wanted to feed Whiskey something I understood and felt good about. To me, food should look like food, and I started cooking for her and trying different menu options. I wasn’t against kibble sometimes, but I just felt that since I wouldn’t like to eat nutrition bars all my life (but hey once in awhile is fine), I wanted to try and feed more fresh foods to my growing puppy.

    After a couple weeks it just became very time consuming and I was getting anxious about balancing all the required nutrients. It’s very hard to know how much calcium you’re feeding for example, and although Whiskey LOVED the cooked meals, it just wasn’t a practical long term solution. At that point she ate more food than I did, and I was making a huge batch of slow-cooked food every other day and grocery shopping just took too much money and time.

    Raw meat mix with leftover veges I had in the fridge

    Soon after I shifted her onto raw food, but it took me 1 year to figure out what Whiskey did best on, and where best to buy from. Whiskey was very picky with food, and she had multiple issues with Guardia and diarrhea, vomiting, and other illnesses in the beginning so it took awhile to find our rhythm. In the end, I found out that Whiskey likes semi-frozen meals, and doesn’t like chicken, gamey bird meats (like Quail and duck), but is ok with Turkey. When I say she doesn’t “like”, she’s not intolerant, she just refuses to eat it, and will pick at her food for weeks if I try to out-stubborn her and would get way too skinny. Whiskey seems to do well on lean meats like Turkey, Lamb, Pork, and Elk (we had a scare where we thought she might have had Pancreatitis), and is very sensitive to greasy foods (much more sensitive than Bourbon for example). Every dog is different and it’s really good to find out what works for your dog (like people!).

    Nutrience pre-mix with raw elk, canned pumpkin leftover rice, and raw egg

    Bourbon’s appetite

    Bourbon also came kibble-fed and I was able to switch her over to raw within one meal several days after she settled into our home. She had no tummy problems and eats really well. Bourbon eats meats well but is oddly picky with new foods like vegetables and fruits. While Whiskey will beg for orange slices and strawberries, Bourbon won’t touch them. Each dog is different! Bourbon’s done well with every protein we’ve thrown at her. The only thing I have to keep in mind is to slowly increase her large “bone meals” (meaty bones as a meal) or she’ll be overwhelmed with a bone too large! Bourbon loves fish, even whole fish, while Whiskey will only eat small chopped up fish.

    What a typical block of frozen dog meat looks like. 10% bone, 5% liver, 5% kidney/spleen 80% muscle meat

    Vet opposition

    Most traditional vets are opposed to the raw diet for a variety of reasons. Most studies about dog food are done and funded by large dog food companies and there is very little financial incentive to study the benefits to raw so first off there’s little evidence to back raw food as being an healthier alternative. Raw food manufacturers are new and small (and tend to be local because raw is harder to ship) and don’t have the resources to fund these studies.

    Also because raw diets vary so much, vets can be scared of the possibility of nutritional imbalances. There are definitely some people that aren’t going to do the research or even know that this is something you need to do. If you feed only hamburger meat and eggshells, your dog is going to be sick, so you’ll need to do a minimal amount of research or purchase a pre-mixed raw. At the least a dog needs muscle meat, organ (lots of minerals and vitamins in organs), and bone. Last, the risk of meat-borne bacteria. While there is always a risk of handing raw meat, it’s not more so than any meat that you eat (we buy all human grade meat for our dogs). Vets don’t want to take on the extra liability if they recommend a raw diet.

    We’ve worked with vets that oppose or support our raw feeding but once they see how healthy our dogs are, their teeth, coat, and demeanor, I haven’t been given too much grief. I’ve found over time they’re more supportive or at least there’s less opposition.

    Daily feeding raw, the details

    Semi-frozen seems like the best texture for most dogs. Some will eat fully frozen, and most that I know aren’t crazy about fully defrost soft mushy raw blend. For meaty bones, Whiskey didn’t’ want to work for her meal, so I would sear the sides of the turkey neck or lamb neck to get her “into it”. I also taught the dogs to eat on a mat for easy indoor cleanup. I feed my cat the same meat as my dogs, I just add extra taurine into the food for her (in the form of hearts).

    Everyday I defrost the next day’s meat and feed the meal I put in the day earlier so its’ semi defrosted in the fridge. We have a deep freezer (even in the apartment we bought a deep freezer) so we can get about 120 lbs of meat at a time to keep costs and shopping less. We use THESE containers and put a couple blocks in. Whiskey eats about 1.5lbs and Bourbon (currently 8 months) eats about 2lbs. I use a fork to break up the semi-frozen blocks into a bowl, add any extras, and feed. It takes approx. 2 mins to prepare. We use a sanitizing wipe or spray on the mats after they’ve eaten and that’s about it. I’m extra cautious about tripe and I’m always in the room with the girls while they eat. I like to prevent any guarding issues with eating (all 3 are fed at the same time), and if we’re feeding bones, I’m also there to encourage them to stay on the mat. They also eat better and are less insecure if I’m there. If one finishes much faster, I’m also there to remove a temptation for one to go after another’s meal.

    a 40lb box of bulk raw meat, straight into the deep freezer, we get 3 at a time

    Proteins we feed

    I usually buy my food in bulk 40lb boxes of a single protein although sometimes I might get patties, or pre-mixes to make my life easier (or if someone is pet-sitting I want their lives to be easy!). Most mixes we use are around 80% muscle meat, 10% organ and 10% bone.

    Beef -local, but higher fat, prefer elk but harder to find
    Turkey- our go to protein, lean and easier to digest than chicken
    Pork- lean, we use rarely but I do like to mix in different protein, there is a blanket warning about feeding raw pork because of larvae of Trichinella spiralis (a parasite), however this is not an issue in Canada
    Elk- Low in fat, we love elk but hard to find and more expensive
    Fish- whole fish from Asian food markets, or fish byproduct from our local fish shop (odds and ends that don’t make it to human products), please note to freeze wild caught salmon or any hunted meats for 3 weeks before feeding to avoid parasites

    Nutrience Raw or other pre-mix- just feed packets and done! includes supplements, veg, variety meat mixed already

    Make sure the premix has muscle meat, bone, and organ, if not, then make sure you add some. You don’t need to add it in equally every meal, just overall. For instance some premix doesn’t have bone because it’s hard to grind up beef bones. I might feed 3 meals of beef without bone (2 meals a day) and then feed one meal of meaty bone. If I don’t add veg to one meal, I might add extra to another. You’re aiming for variety overall, not variety in every meal.

    raw turkey with sardines, egg, and Dr Dobias supplements

    Extras

    lamb neck- Whiskey’s favorite, a good treat I can’t always afford, Whiskey prefers it seared (roll eyes here)
    chicken carcass- Moo and Bourbon, best to start puppies from
    chicken/turkey hearts- for Moo (I feed her dog meat mix and add extra hearts for taurine)
    turkey/duck neck- Bourbon loves, Whiskey doesn’t seem to digest these well anymore (although turkey meat is ok)
    green tripe- Amazing for both dogs, I try to find whole pieces, not ground down (cheaper and less processed), super smelly but healthy if you can deal with the smell (not for the newly initiated into raw feeding!)
    pumpkin (canned)/ steamed yams
    steamed veges, chopped spinach,
    chicken egg/quail egg
    berries
    leftovers (nothing greasy, toxic, saucy)

    Supplements I use, I don’t really need to but I feel better!

    Supplements

    I use GreenMin, Soulfood from Dr Dobias (I use about a 1/3 of the recommended amount a day)
    Fish/sardines/krill oil for omega 3s
    Turmeric as an inflammatory (after high impact activity, or any swelling)
    Green lipped mussel for joints
    Kiefer for probiotics
    Gutsense (after vomiting or diarrhea or antibiotic use)

    Nutrience Raw mix with kiefer, turkey neck for Bourbon, lamb neck for Whiskey, and pumpkin

    Meal bones

    We feed meal bones 1-3 times a week. This is to help clean their teeth, and when I just need a break because it can take up to an hour for Whiskey to break down a piece of lamb neck. Chewing on a meaty bone takes brain power and it’s something they both enjoy and get tired doing. It’s the perfect rainy day activity.

    See this as an opportunity to vary your usual proteins, and size depending on your dog’s chewing ability. Start with smaller bones with a puppy or cats, like chicken carcass, and duck neck. My cat can break down turkey necks but she’s a bit…crazy. Start young and with boney pieces like chicken backs or turkey necks in sections (chop them up). If your dog is just licking the the meat if they are playing with it too much and cut into the meat so there’s more to work with. Whiskey also preferred her meat seared (I’m serious, she was that picky but then she would eat it). Don’t try cartilage until you know your dog is really into bones. Whiskey hates the texture.

    If you can feed outdoors that’s ideal but we have to feed indoors so we’ve taught the dogs to eat on a mat. Look around for a butcher than might keep you some cuts for cheap. Avoid weight bearing bones on large animals if your dog is a big chewer (they might crack teeth) and never feed cooked bones, especially small birds because cooked bones are brittle and can break and puncture intestines. If your dog does eat some by mistake, just keep an eye out for any signs of issues.

    Sample meal

    I just wash my hands after handling raw meat, I use food storage containers to defrost daily

    I typically don’t spend too much effort making a fancy meal for my dog but sometimes I’ll have extras. The base for most meals is just the block of meat I buy in bulk. Here’s an example of how much effort I put in myself, although I see many dog parents that make the most Instagram worthy meals for their pups!

    Simple meal (50%): 1 bock of meat half defrosted

    Regular meal (35%): 1 block of meat, some veg, supplements

    Fancy meal (10%): 1 block of meat, quail egg, fish, veg, tablespoon kiefer, supplements, berries from garden

    Bone Meal (10%): 1 piece of meaty bone

    Travel and Training with Raw

    For travel I’ll usually bring a couple blocks of meat for the first couple days and put them in the hotel fridge or an ice box. Pre-mixes are easiest at this point and sometimes the pre-packed packaging really helps in an ice box. If we are going into the backcountry our somewhere without a fridge I’ll start bringing freeze dried raw. There’s many different options on the market and in most cases you do get what you pay for. Try feeding the freeze dried as treats or food topper before going on the trip to make sure your dog will eat it happily first. I’ve found some cheaper brands will show in loose stools, but we’ve had the best luck with Open Farm’s freeze dried raw. Our dogs love it so much I use it as training treats and meal supplements while training Bourbon as a puppy. Also if your dog has also done well with kibble I don’t see harm in switching to kibble for travelling either as long as stools show no change and your dog seems to be doing well. Of course like always, I’m not an expert and just speaking from my own personal experience.

    Amount to feed

    Feed the dog in front of you. Start with an amount. If your dog is skinny, double it until your dog looks good, then reduce the amount until your dog looks healthy. If your dog is too big, halve the amount until your dog looks good, then find the amount in-between that keeps your dog at that weight. Don’t move up and down in small amounts. Watch their poop, bugs? loose? tight? it will tell you lots!

    Our costs are around 2-3$/lbs (Canadian dollars) in bulk 40lbs box. 53lbs Whiskey eats about 1.5lbs a day (3% of body weight but very active dog) and 41lbs Bourbon eats about 2lbs (5% of body weight at 8 months). They get extra on days we are doing big hikes, and maybe less if we’re not doing too much (although that’s rare because Bourbon doesn’t really allow that scenario).

    Puppy *first month home- 8-10%
    Growing puppy- 6-8%
    Teenager puppy- 4-6%
    1-2 yrs- 3-4%
    adult 2-3%
    active adult- 3%
    senior/less active/overweight adult – 1.5%

    On the top was my dinner, on the bottom, Whiskey’s dinner, this makes more sense to me than kibble

    What are the benefits to feeding raw

    -you know exactly what you are feeding, easier to control for allergies
    -not processed
    -local sources
    -control over ingredients (more fat, less fat, more meat, less pumpkin)
    -fresh food, easily digestible
    -less gas, less stinky breath, less poop (more food used, less poop wastage)
    -no preservatives
    -no fillers needed to make kibble
    -clean teeth (bones and no fillers/carbs)
    -less “doggie” odour
    -less shedding, softer shiner coat
    -more energy, better immune system

    Downsides to feeding raw

    -tends to be more expensive
    -gross compared to kibble
    -need to have organization and defrost, etc
    -more washing, more hassle
    -limited usage (ie compared to kibble best before date)
    -harder to source
    -need travelling options
    -can worry if old/young/immune compromised
    -need freezer space

    raw meat, roasted pumpkin, kefir, supplements

    What are the risks and how do we mitigate them?

    If there’s young children or very old family members that may be immune compromised, keep surfaces clean and don’t use the same bowl for humans and dogs. Use the same precautious handing any kind of meat as with the dog food. Avoid kisses right after eating. Don’t keep food too long defrosted, we’ve rarely had this issue, but I’ve refrozen the food (sometimes even for an hour or two) if I think we might be going on a camping trip. Remember humans are more at risk than dogs to things like e-coli, dogs eat loads of unsavory things and don’t get sick and their stomachs are better adjusted to eating raw meat than ours are.

    Switching diets to raw

    This really depends on the dog that is transitioning and can be easy or hard. With Whiskey it took months going from kibble to cooked to raw. Kibble to cooked food is really easy, and from cooked to raw, it took a longer time. I was new to raw feeding and was trying many sources and things. I also didn’t know that half frozen is ideal for texture! Whiskey is so picky with her food and since she was the only dog eating, there was no sense of competition (she ate better when we petsitted another dog).

    Bourbon just switched outright and never looked back. Some dogs are able to eat one meal kibble, one meal raw without issues, others cannot. Slow cooked food is the easiest to digest so use that for transitioning if you have a sensitive tummy. Start with a raw meal after 12-24 hours of a kibble one, start with a smaller amount, maybe with some pumpkin. If your dog doesn’t like half-frozen, try a room temperature meal but make sure you don’t leave the food out very long.

    Moo’s food is at the bottom. She gets the same raw and a chicken heart (for taurine)

    Digestive issues

    If your dog gets sick or has stomach issues after switching, watch their poop. As soon as Whiskey or Bourbon gets diarrhea or vomits more than once, I switch straight to slow cooked turkey, white rice, and pumpkin (or carrots). I also use Gutsense from Dr Dobias (probiotics specifically for dogs). I used to use another brand but once I looked up the ingredients I was really disgusted and found Gutsense. I keep feeding until the poop looks good for a couple days, then slowly transition back to raw. I basically just throw everything into a slowcooker and make a massive amount of congee (Chinese rice soup). Giardia is pretty prevalent where I live and after I learned to do this we haven’t had to go to the vet over any stomach issues since they clear up themselves.

    BC Sources we have tried and used and recommend

    RainCity meats $ (delivery) email muttleycrewadventures@gmail.com for details
    Beltrame meats $
    B&T Raw $
    In the Raw $$
    Nutrience Subzero Raw (Petsmart) $$$
    True Carnivores $$ (delivery)
    Open Farm (Discount Code Whiskey10) $$$
    Supplements from Dr Dobias $$

  • Oru Beach Kayak: The Best Portable Kayak for Dogs

    Oru Beach Kayak: The Best Portable Kayak for Dogs

    Support me and Save $75 off with code WHISKEY

    When Oru kayaks first came out they were gamechangers. At only 30lbs you could fold them up and walk or hike them into previously unkayak-able places. They were easier to store in apartments and possible to transport in cars without a rack. And…they are beautiful! I’ve owned my Beach kayak for over 2 years and have really tested its limits. Recently we added the Bay kayak which is a quicker boat, a bit better for all those ocean trips as well snappy maneuvering for photography.

    The most peaceful morning
    1. Oru Basics
    2. Beach vs Bay models
    3. Adding Dogs
    4. Comparing Oru to other options on the market
    5. How to Introduce Dogs to a Kayak
    6. Accessories
    7. Testing the Beach Oru
    8. Pros and Cons

    The Oru Basics

    There are now 5 different models from their tiny Inlet 20lb model easily brought on a bus, to a tandem model capable of carrying a 500lb load. The kayaks are all origami-style foldable made out of a corrugated plastic rated for 20,000 folds and tough enough to easily survive rocks to dog nails. Reportedly smaller things like the neoprene caps, buckles, and rods will wear down before the polypropylene has issues and I feel really confident on the toughness of these boats. They’re made in the USA and range from $899-$2199 and can be used from rugged expeditions to your neighbourhood lake.

    Beach Oru Kayak Assembly

    I own two versions, the original, the Bay, and the most popular, the Beach. Both are around 28lbs, something I can easily carry with their backpacks (additional accessory) on a flat walk. I’ll concentrate on these two models and my thoughts and experience with them here.

    The Bay Kayak

    Beach vs Bay Oru

    The Bay is 28lbs vs 26lbs for the Beach, not really a significant difference, however keep in mind the Bay is also $300USD more. Packed up they’re around the same size. Construction of the Beach is quicker, the website says 5 vs 10mins which I find to be pretty accurate if you’re not very familiar with the boat.

    Two foldable Oru Kayaks with dogs in the Canadian Rockies Emerald Lake
    Whiskey in the Beach and Bourbon in the Bay Oru Kayaks
    Thierry putting the Bay Kayak together

    I’ve got the Beach down to about 3 mins if I don’t have a dog on my back but either way, it’s quick and easy once you practice a couple times. The hardest part of putting the Beach together is the tension rod (tip: put the boat on it’s side) and I do find it a bit more difficult to line up the zipper channels on the Bay. As the boat is used over several trips, the folds become less stiff and it actually does get easier to put the boat together. Disassembly is much more intuitive and quicker (about half the time of set-up). I’d really suggest that you dry the boat and break down away from sand to keep your car clean!

    Oru Beach Kayak has so much space on board
    Whiskey showing how much space there is in the Beach Oru
    Bourbon and I are sharing the Bay Oru

    In the water, the Beach is much more wider and open. This means it’s more stable, holds more things and dogs easily accessible, and wetter. In contrast the Bay is much tighter to get in and out, faster on the water, quicker to turn and more nimble, and much better in waves or wind with a dryer experience. Make sure you put together and take apart you kayak at home before you head to the beach. The videos online are very helpful and it can seem complex and the folds very stiff so it was really helpful to at least try once at home with no pressure.

    Man putting an oru foldable kayak together

    What About Adding Dogs into the Equation?

    For dog use, the Bay would not be able to fit a dog with a larger 6 foot person. I was able to fit a puppy Bourbon with me in the Bay so a small dog would be fine with a smaller person, but I would not suggest the Bay as the most dog friendly option. On the other hand, the Beach Oru model can fit about 2 Vizslas and maybe 2 smaller dogs in total with a smaller person (300lbs max) but make sure everyone’s friends! With two Vizslas (50lbs each) I can still fit more as well as my camera and a bag.

    Comparing Oru with other options on the market

    These boats are called sit-in kayaks vs sit-on kayaks. There is usually only the sit-on versions that can you easily load up dogs with enough space so the Beach Kayak is amazing for staying relatively dry and staying a bit more out of the elements than a sit-on kayak (almost like a paddleboard). I believe the two kayaks are lighter than any blow up options I’m aware of, and you don’t need to inflate them making for less packing and unpacking trouble. I find blow up options also have much less space for gear and dogs, and the sit-on kayaks I just don’t feel safe except on very calm water and there’s nowhere to protect my camera if the wind picks up. The sit-in kayaks also encourage dogs to stay “inside” the boat vs dangling a body part out and slipping off and on. In short, with all the boats I’ve seen around, I’ve not seen a better dog option for kayaks.

    The top section is strong enough for a dog to stand on

    How to Introduce a Dog to the Kayak

    When introducing your dog to the kayak, try it on land first! First, and very importantly, make sure your dog is exercised and tired. Do whatever it takes to make sure your dog is calm, perhaps wait a couple days if this is the first time he’s at the beach and he’s just going crazy. If you can find a sandy area just sit yourself and your pup in the kayak and see how they do. Ask them to load up, ideally with a command they already understand. Whiskey understands “wait” and “up up” and “stay”. The wait is necessary as she now understands boats are her taxis and she will jump on before I’m ready.

    Know what you dog needs and responds to and bring anything that might help. Treats and a chew are really helpful, and my own dogs LOVE blankets so I bring 3! Get into the kayak somewhere calm (edge of the beach or a dock) and ask a friend to hold the boat while you dog loads up. Keep it calm and controlled, ask your dog to load and sit and stay. Reward with treats and get yourself comfortable before you ask your dog to lie down. At this point present a chew if necessary and slowly push off.

    Treat periodically (more at first and then space it out longed and longer) or let your dog lie down with a chew and just float around paddling gently. Keep the first sessions short and sweet and keep your mood calm (even when rewarding your dog, keep everything calm). Slowly increase your paddling time and see what you can do to make your own dog more comfortable. Try one dog at a time before added multiple!

    Accessories

    Vizsla dog on a oru kayak at sunset

    The Oru Kayaks fold up into a box and can be carried with a strap that it comes with. You can also purchase an additional backpack that makes travel much easier (I highly suggest this!). It helps keep sand from your car, and is so much easier to carry around on your back. You can also put the paddle and life jacket and extras in the pockets and walk a very long distance with the kayak. As I mentioned earlier, a foam or extra seat padding makes the kayak much more comfortable. You can use any paddles but I do suggest one that breaks down into 4 sections if you are carrying and storing your kayak in small locations (like a car).

    Viszla and woman high five in lake with Oru Kayak backpack
    My kayak on my back with the lifejacket and paddles in the attachments

    The seat pads are very thin so I would highly suggest a bum pad (like the seat pads for camping or any waterproof foam). For both models, if you are in open water with waves a dry bag is really helpful. If you’re out at night, it’s also really fun to add lights inside the boat (integrate them while you’re building them).

    Putting the Beach to the test

    So the Beach kayak is suggested calm water, for easy trips, and casual day fun. Well, I took it out in waves (I got pretty wet!) and it was super stable and easy to handle, but not as quick to turn as the Bay. I also took it out on an overnight trip and found it was easy to load on bags and luggage (there’s space behind as well as in front of the seat and very easy to access) and it was pretty decent at tracking straight and dealing with wind and tides. It’s not a fast boat (the Bay is much faster and easy to maneuver on these kinds of trips) but it’s easier to load up than the Bay.

    Dog swimming next to woman on alpine lake in British Columbia
    Whiskey swimming with Kaitlyn on an alpine lake

    I’ve also landed and taken off from very rocky beaches and beaches covered in barnacles and the hull has been fine (scratched like any plastic but fine). I’ve also found my own limits to carrying up the kayak on a very rugged trail up in the alpine wilderness. Because there was no way to carry both my overnight pack and my kayak, I had to make 3 trips per every one (instead of going from car to site, I had to go from car to site with my pack, then back to car, then back to site with my kayak). The kayak is very bulky and not easy on single track trails that are super steep. It’s also hard to balance jumping from log to log and hard to deal with slippery trails. In short, stick to easy trails that are 1m wide unless you love to struggle!

    Woman Hiking backcountry up to campsite
    Hiking this boat up to this alpine location was not easy

    Last, this kayak looks different. It’s beautiful and everyone loves watching it put together and used. You can light it up at night and it’s the most lovely thing.

    Glowing kayak oru paddle at night
    Evening paddles with a glowing boat

    Pros and Cons of the Beach Oru Kayak

    Pros: Fits in small places, easy to pack up and down, easy for beginners, stable, fits so many dogs, accepts a heavy load, strong, good looks, lighter than blow up kayaks, tracks well, one year warranty, good resale value, beautiful

    Downsides: Price, Rudderless, need to learn how to set up at first, Wet deck, Seat needs extra cushion, seat back can come off sometimes.

    Please don’t forget to use our discount and support us! WHISKEY with any Oru purchase

    Oru Kayak assembly
    Turquoise lake with dogs
    Dogs that paddle