Tag: food

  • Raw Dog Feeding- Affordable, Details, our Vancouver sources, and supplements

    Raw Dog Feeding- Affordable, Details, our Vancouver sources, and supplements

    1. Whiskey
    2. Bourbon
    3. Feeding details
    4. Proteins
    5. Extras
    6. Supplements
    7. Meal Bones
    8. Sample Meal
    9. Travel and Training
    10. Amount
    11. Benefits and Downsides
    12. Risks
    13. Switching
    14. Digestive Issues
    15. Sources

    Whiskey’s tummy

    When I first brought Whiskey home, she was eating kibble and for some reason, kibble just didn’t really make “sense” to me. I avoid highly processed food in general because it just doesn’t make me feel so good, and I wanted to feed Whiskey something I understood and felt good about. To me, food should look like food, and I started cooking for her and trying different menu options. I wasn’t against kibble sometimes, but I just felt that since I wouldn’t like to eat nutrition bars all my life (but hey once in awhile is fine), I wanted to try and feed more fresh foods to my growing puppy.

    After a couple weeks it just became very time consuming and I was getting anxious about balancing all the required nutrients. It’s very hard to know how much calcium you’re feeding for example, and although Whiskey LOVED the cooked meals, it just wasn’t a practical long term solution. At that point she ate more food than I did, and I was making a huge batch of slow-cooked food every other day and grocery shopping just took too much money and time.

    Raw meat mix with leftover veges I had in the fridge

    Soon after I shifted her onto raw food, but it took me 1 year to figure out what Whiskey did best on, and where best to buy from. Whiskey was very picky with food, and she had multiple issues with Guardia and diarrhea, vomiting, and other illnesses in the beginning so it took awhile to find our rhythm. In the end, I found out that Whiskey likes semi-frozen meals, and doesn’t like chicken, gamey bird meats (like Quail and duck), but is ok with Turkey. When I say she doesn’t “like”, she’s not intolerant, she just refuses to eat it, and will pick at her food for weeks if I try to out-stubborn her and would get way too skinny. Whiskey seems to do well on lean meats like Turkey, Lamb, Pork, and Elk (we had a scare where we thought she might have had Pancreatitis), and is very sensitive to greasy foods (much more sensitive than Bourbon for example). Every dog is different and it’s really good to find out what works for your dog (like people!).

    Nutrience pre-mix with raw elk, canned pumpkin leftover rice, and raw egg

    Bourbon’s appetite

    Bourbon also came kibble-fed and I was able to switch her over to raw within one meal several days after she settled into our home. She had no tummy problems and eats really well. Bourbon eats meats well but is oddly picky with new foods like vegetables and fruits. While Whiskey will beg for orange slices and strawberries, Bourbon won’t touch them. Each dog is different! Bourbon’s done well with every protein we’ve thrown at her. The only thing I have to keep in mind is to slowly increase her large “bone meals” (meaty bones as a meal) or she’ll be overwhelmed with a bone too large! Bourbon loves fish, even whole fish, while Whiskey will only eat small chopped up fish.

    What a typical block of frozen dog meat looks like. 10% bone, 5% liver, 5% kidney/spleen 80% muscle meat

    Vet opposition

    Most traditional vets are opposed to the raw diet for a variety of reasons. Most studies about dog food are done and funded by large dog food companies and there is very little financial incentive to study the benefits to raw so first off there’s little evidence to back raw food as being an healthier alternative. Raw food manufacturers are new and small (and tend to be local because raw is harder to ship) and don’t have the resources to fund these studies.

    Also because raw diets vary so much, vets can be scared of the possibility of nutritional imbalances. There are definitely some people that aren’t going to do the research or even know that this is something you need to do. If you feed only hamburger meat and eggshells, your dog is going to be sick, so you’ll need to do a minimal amount of research or purchase a pre-mixed raw. At the least a dog needs muscle meat, organ (lots of minerals and vitamins in organs), and bone. Last, the risk of meat-borne bacteria. While there is always a risk of handing raw meat, it’s not more so than any meat that you eat (we buy all human grade meat for our dogs). Vets don’t want to take on the extra liability if they recommend a raw diet.

    We’ve worked with vets that oppose or support our raw feeding but once they see how healthy our dogs are, their teeth, coat, and demeanor, I haven’t been given too much grief. I’ve found over time they’re more supportive or at least there’s less opposition.

    Daily feeding raw, the details

    Semi-frozen seems like the best texture for most dogs. Some will eat fully frozen, and most that I know aren’t crazy about fully defrost soft mushy raw blend. For meaty bones, Whiskey didn’t’ want to work for her meal, so I would sear the sides of the turkey neck or lamb neck to get her “into it”. I also taught the dogs to eat on a mat for easy indoor cleanup. I feed my cat the same meat as my dogs, I just add extra taurine into the food for her (in the form of hearts).

    Everyday I defrost the next day’s meat and feed the meal I put in the day earlier so its’ semi defrosted in the fridge. We have a deep freezer (even in the apartment we bought a deep freezer) so we can get about 120 lbs of meat at a time to keep costs and shopping less. We use THESE containers and put a couple blocks in. Whiskey eats about 1.5lbs and Bourbon (currently 8 months) eats about 2lbs. I use a fork to break up the semi-frozen blocks into a bowl, add any extras, and feed. It takes approx. 2 mins to prepare. We use a sanitizing wipe or spray on the mats after they’ve eaten and that’s about it. I’m extra cautious about tripe and I’m always in the room with the girls while they eat. I like to prevent any guarding issues with eating (all 3 are fed at the same time), and if we’re feeding bones, I’m also there to encourage them to stay on the mat. They also eat better and are less insecure if I’m there. If one finishes much faster, I’m also there to remove a temptation for one to go after another’s meal.

    a 40lb box of bulk raw meat, straight into the deep freezer, we get 3 at a time

    Proteins we feed

    I usually buy my food in bulk 40lb boxes of a single protein although sometimes I might get patties, or pre-mixes to make my life easier (or if someone is pet-sitting I want their lives to be easy!). Most mixes we use are around 80% muscle meat, 10% organ and 10% bone.

    Beef -local, but higher fat, prefer elk but harder to find
    Turkey- our go to protein, lean and easier to digest than chicken
    Pork- lean, we use rarely but I do like to mix in different protein, there is a blanket warning about feeding raw pork because of larvae of Trichinella spiralis (a parasite), however this is not an issue in Canada
    Elk- Low in fat, we love elk but hard to find and more expensive
    Fish- whole fish from Asian food markets, or fish byproduct from our local fish shop (odds and ends that don’t make it to human products), please note to freeze wild caught salmon or any hunted meats for 3 weeks before feeding to avoid parasites

    Nutrience Raw or other pre-mix- just feed packets and done! includes supplements, veg, variety meat mixed already

    Make sure the premix has muscle meat, bone, and organ, if not, then make sure you add some. You don’t need to add it in equally every meal, just overall. For instance some premix doesn’t have bone because it’s hard to grind up beef bones. I might feed 3 meals of beef without bone (2 meals a day) and then feed one meal of meaty bone. If I don’t add veg to one meal, I might add extra to another. You’re aiming for variety overall, not variety in every meal.

    raw turkey with sardines, egg, and Dr Dobias supplements

    Extras

    lamb neck- Whiskey’s favorite, a good treat I can’t always afford, Whiskey prefers it seared (roll eyes here)
    chicken carcass- Moo and Bourbon, best to start puppies from
    chicken/turkey hearts- for Moo (I feed her dog meat mix and add extra hearts for taurine)
    turkey/duck neck- Bourbon loves, Whiskey doesn’t seem to digest these well anymore (although turkey meat is ok)
    green tripe- Amazing for both dogs, I try to find whole pieces, not ground down (cheaper and less processed), super smelly but healthy if you can deal with the smell (not for the newly initiated into raw feeding!)
    pumpkin (canned)/ steamed yams
    steamed veges, chopped spinach,
    chicken egg/quail egg
    berries
    leftovers (nothing greasy, toxic, saucy)

    Supplements I use, I don’t really need to but I feel better!

    Supplements

    I use GreenMin, Soulfood from Dr Dobias (I use about a 1/3 of the recommended amount a day)
    Fish/sardines/krill oil for omega 3s
    Turmeric as an inflammatory (after high impact activity, or any swelling)
    Green lipped mussel for joints
    Kiefer for probiotics
    Gutsense (after vomiting or diarrhea or antibiotic use)

    Nutrience Raw mix with kiefer, turkey neck for Bourbon, lamb neck for Whiskey, and pumpkin

    Meal bones

    We feed meal bones 1-3 times a week. This is to help clean their teeth, and when I just need a break because it can take up to an hour for Whiskey to break down a piece of lamb neck. Chewing on a meaty bone takes brain power and it’s something they both enjoy and get tired doing. It’s the perfect rainy day activity.

    See this as an opportunity to vary your usual proteins, and size depending on your dog’s chewing ability. Start with smaller bones with a puppy or cats, like chicken carcass, and duck neck. My cat can break down turkey necks but she’s a bit…crazy. Start young and with boney pieces like chicken backs or turkey necks in sections (chop them up). If your dog is just licking the the meat if they are playing with it too much and cut into the meat so there’s more to work with. Whiskey also preferred her meat seared (I’m serious, she was that picky but then she would eat it). Don’t try cartilage until you know your dog is really into bones. Whiskey hates the texture.

    If you can feed outdoors that’s ideal but we have to feed indoors so we’ve taught the dogs to eat on a mat. Look around for a butcher than might keep you some cuts for cheap. Avoid weight bearing bones on large animals if your dog is a big chewer (they might crack teeth) and never feed cooked bones, especially small birds because cooked bones are brittle and can break and puncture intestines. If your dog does eat some by mistake, just keep an eye out for any signs of issues.

    Sample meal

    I just wash my hands after handling raw meat, I use food storage containers to defrost daily

    I typically don’t spend too much effort making a fancy meal for my dog but sometimes I’ll have extras. The base for most meals is just the block of meat I buy in bulk. Here’s an example of how much effort I put in myself, although I see many dog parents that make the most Instagram worthy meals for their pups!

    Simple meal (50%): 1 bock of meat half defrosted

    Regular meal (35%): 1 block of meat, some veg, supplements

    Fancy meal (10%): 1 block of meat, quail egg, fish, veg, tablespoon kiefer, supplements, berries from garden

    Bone Meal (10%): 1 piece of meaty bone

    Travel and Training with Raw

    For travel I’ll usually bring a couple blocks of meat for the first couple days and put them in the hotel fridge or an ice box. Pre-mixes are easiest at this point and sometimes the pre-packed packaging really helps in an ice box. If we are going into the backcountry our somewhere without a fridge I’ll start bringing freeze dried raw. There’s many different options on the market and in most cases you do get what you pay for. Try feeding the freeze dried as treats or food topper before going on the trip to make sure your dog will eat it happily first. I’ve found some cheaper brands will show in loose stools, but we’ve had the best luck with Open Farm’s freeze dried raw. Our dogs love it so much I use it as training treats and meal supplements while training Bourbon as a puppy. Also if your dog has also done well with kibble I don’t see harm in switching to kibble for travelling either as long as stools show no change and your dog seems to be doing well. Of course like always, I’m not an expert and just speaking from my own personal experience.

    Amount to feed

    Feed the dog in front of you. Start with an amount. If your dog is skinny, double it until your dog looks good, then reduce the amount until your dog looks healthy. If your dog is too big, halve the amount until your dog looks good, then find the amount in-between that keeps your dog at that weight. Don’t move up and down in small amounts. Watch their poop, bugs? loose? tight? it will tell you lots!

    Our costs are around 2-3$/lbs (Canadian dollars) in bulk 40lbs box. 53lbs Whiskey eats about 1.5lbs a day (3% of body weight but very active dog) and 41lbs Bourbon eats about 2lbs (5% of body weight at 8 months). They get extra on days we are doing big hikes, and maybe less if we’re not doing too much (although that’s rare because Bourbon doesn’t really allow that scenario).

    Puppy *first month home- 8-10%
    Growing puppy- 6-8%
    Teenager puppy- 4-6%
    1-2 yrs- 3-4%
    adult 2-3%
    active adult- 3%
    senior/less active/overweight adult – 1.5%

    On the top was my dinner, on the bottom, Whiskey’s dinner, this makes more sense to me than kibble

    What are the benefits to feeding raw

    -you know exactly what you are feeding, easier to control for allergies
    -not processed
    -local sources
    -control over ingredients (more fat, less fat, more meat, less pumpkin)
    -fresh food, easily digestible
    -less gas, less stinky breath, less poop (more food used, less poop wastage)
    -no preservatives
    -no fillers needed to make kibble
    -clean teeth (bones and no fillers/carbs)
    -less “doggie” odour
    -less shedding, softer shiner coat
    -more energy, better immune system

    Downsides to feeding raw

    -tends to be more expensive
    -gross compared to kibble
    -need to have organization and defrost, etc
    -more washing, more hassle
    -limited usage (ie compared to kibble best before date)
    -harder to source
    -need travelling options
    -can worry if old/young/immune compromised
    -need freezer space

    raw meat, roasted pumpkin, kefir, supplements

    What are the risks and how do we mitigate them?

    If there’s young children or very old family members that may be immune compromised, keep surfaces clean and don’t use the same bowl for humans and dogs. Use the same precautious handing any kind of meat as with the dog food. Avoid kisses right after eating. Don’t keep food too long defrosted, we’ve rarely had this issue, but I’ve refrozen the food (sometimes even for an hour or two) if I think we might be going on a camping trip. Remember humans are more at risk than dogs to things like e-coli, dogs eat loads of unsavory things and don’t get sick and their stomachs are better adjusted to eating raw meat than ours are.

    Switching diets to raw

    This really depends on the dog that is transitioning and can be easy or hard. With Whiskey it took months going from kibble to cooked to raw. Kibble to cooked food is really easy, and from cooked to raw, it took a longer time. I was new to raw feeding and was trying many sources and things. I also didn’t know that half frozen is ideal for texture! Whiskey is so picky with her food and since she was the only dog eating, there was no sense of competition (she ate better when we petsitted another dog).

    Bourbon just switched outright and never looked back. Some dogs are able to eat one meal kibble, one meal raw without issues, others cannot. Slow cooked food is the easiest to digest so use that for transitioning if you have a sensitive tummy. Start with a raw meal after 12-24 hours of a kibble one, start with a smaller amount, maybe with some pumpkin. If your dog doesn’t like half-frozen, try a room temperature meal but make sure you don’t leave the food out very long.

    Moo’s food is at the bottom. She gets the same raw and a chicken heart (for taurine)

    Digestive issues

    If your dog gets sick or has stomach issues after switching, watch their poop. As soon as Whiskey or Bourbon gets diarrhea or vomits more than once, I switch straight to slow cooked turkey, white rice, and pumpkin (or carrots). I also use Gutsense from Dr Dobias (probiotics specifically for dogs). I used to use another brand but once I looked up the ingredients I was really disgusted and found Gutsense. I keep feeding until the poop looks good for a couple days, then slowly transition back to raw. I basically just throw everything into a slowcooker and make a massive amount of congee (Chinese rice soup). Giardia is pretty prevalent where I live and after I learned to do this we haven’t had to go to the vet over any stomach issues since they clear up themselves.

    BC Sources we have tried and used and recommend

    RainCity meats $ (delivery) email muttleycrewadventures@gmail.com for details
    Beltrame meats $
    B&T Raw $
    In the Raw $$
    Nutrience Subzero Raw (Petsmart) $$$
    True Carnivores $$ (delivery)
    Open Farm (Discount Code Whiskey10) $$$
    Supplements from Dr Dobias $$

  • Dog Hiking Checklist: What to Bring on a Hike

    Dog Hiking Checklist: What to Bring on a Hike

    These items should be on your hiking checklist! Optional gear is in GREEN, Seasonal gear is in BLUE. This is assuming something like an 8 hour alpine hike in the backcountry with no reception and a dog.

    10 essentials for any hike
    1. Navigation
    2. Headlamp
    3. Sun protection
    4. First Aid
    5. Knife
    6. Fire
    7. shelter
    8. Extra food
    9. Extra Water
    10. Extra clothing

    On Body

    • Hiking shoes
    • Hiking pants/tights
    • Merino T-shirt
    • Merino long sleeve/zip
    • Shell jacket
    • Knee Brace
    • Gaiters
    • Dog leash
    • Merino Socks
    • Merino underwear
    • extra hair ties
    • hat

    On Dog

    • collar with tags
    • harness
    • dog jacket

    in Pack

    • Dog leash
    • phone
    • car keys
    • wallet
    • Garmin Inreach Mini
    • battery pack
    • headlamp
    • emergency blanket
    • gloves
    • toque
    • extra merino top layer
    • warm extra layers to share
    • dog sleeping bag
    • food (so much food)
    • emergency bars
    • drink/tea/water bladder
    • water filter
    • bear mace
    • air horn
    • jacket
    • sunglasses
    • extra socks
    • down jacket
    • waterproof shell
    • crampons
    • snowshoes
    • bugspray
    • sunscreen
    • poop bags
    • dog treats
    • dog food
    • dog bowl
    • carabiners
    • sunhat
    • salt stick (electrolytes)
    • hand warmer
    • knife
    • dog layers (clothing)
    • dog booties
    • dog lights

    First Aid Kit

    • Compeed Blister Packs (best ones I’ve found)
    • Advil
    • Reactine (can be used on dogs)
    • Benadryl (can be used on dogs)
    • Superglue
    • bandages
    • lighter/matches
    • duct tape
    • zip ties
    • gravol
    • polysporin
    • tick remover
    • alcohol pads
    • larger bandages
    • dog emergency bootie
    • electrolytes
    • earplugs
    • tape
    • mirror
    • shoelace
    • safety pins
    • small plastic bags
    • mutlitool

    Photography

    • Camera
    • lenses
    • extra batteries
    • camera clip
    • tripod

    in Car

    • shovel
    • clothes to change into afterwards
    • car shoes
    • drink
    • food
    • dog wipes/baby wipes
    • blankets
  • Our Best and Tested Gear for Camping with Dogs

    Our Best and Tested Gear for Camping with Dogs

    I’ve been backcountry camping with Whiskey since I’ve had her and we’ve tried so many different forms and types of gear. While I’ve gotten used to carrying a significant amount of weight, every piece that I bring needs to be purposeful, tough, and lightweight (in that order). For reference we hike and camp in bear country, usually with the threat of variable weather, rain, snow, river crossings, and in wild country. We avoid crowds and sometimes hike without trails. Normally I go with girlfriends but once a year tend to go alone. Over the year I tend to camp close to the snowline, in the alpine, and summit peaks close to camp. Ticks are not an issue for us being so cold, but other wildlife is, so keeping scent-free is very important. I hope our gear guide is helpful, please let me know if you have any specific questions! A few links may be affiliate but are meant as a guide as to where you can buy the product. I do not promote one brand above others and have purchased most of the gear myself.

    Whiskey rocking her Palisades Ruffwear bags and K9topcoat base layer

    The BASICS

    Dog leash- Wilderdog– I love gear that’s multi-purpose especially if I’m needing to carry it in on my back up a mountin! Wilderdog uses climbing rope and real locking carabiners. I’ve used the leash for everything from hanging a bear bag, lifting up my pup up some steep sections (from the harness, not neck), to even installing my tire chains. We’ve used the leashes for several years and they’re in top condition.

    Hiking Pack- Ruffwear Palisades Pack– My love of this bag matches the love of my own Osprey. I love LOVE how the packs can come off and on so easily so we can take it off during food breaks. I ask Whiskey to carry a hefty load on multidays and every break she can get really helps. The harness underneath is perfect for summiting trips so I don’t need to bring another piece of gear. It’s good to note that we did break one of the tiny buckles that secures the bag onto the side of the dog (it’s not a major problem), and I’ve been too lazy to ask for a replacement buckle. The material of the bag also does rub and wear overtime on bushes and trees but overall I’m just so impressed by the ease of this product.

    So much gear needed for backcountry camping, but so worth it

    Harness- Ruffwear Flagline Dog Harness– Whiskey doesn’t tend to pull but if you’re hiking all day long on-leash it’s much more comfortable for everyone if your pup is on a harness, especially around mountain tops and technical scrambles. Bourbon is new to technical scrambles so I would always recommend a handle on the harness to help your dog up sections and have the easiest way to grip them should they slip (also easiest for a friend to help as well). If you’re even thinking you may need a harness, I would always recommend one with a handle.

    Tent– Depending on the size of your dog, you may need to go up one person size of your tent (ie if you’re two people with one large dog you may need a 3ppl tent). I also highly recommend NOT getting an UL tent as the mesh on those are so easily torn with dog paws. Whiskey loves to “knock” on the mesh to ask to be let in and out and also to say hi to friends in the morning. UL tents also have snaggier zippers which aren’t good if you need to unzip in a pinch for a pee break/barf emergency.

    I use vintage Marmot tents that are really heavy compared to what’s available these days but I just find the doors are huge, zippers are great, and the material lasts so well. Our 3 person Ajax tent has been under a foot of snow, in all conditions and we’ve had it for a decade now. I also highly recommend that you leave the bottom of the tent unzippered and teach your dog how to go in and out without having to ask you to unzip and zip each time. I’m totally resigned to the fact my tent’s going to be messy with dogs so I just keep my clothes in the corners. Lastly even if the evening calls for blue skies, consider bringing the fly unless you’re sure your dog won’t be bothered by watching the outdoors. I find most dogs sleep better when they cannot see outside.

    The Klymit Moon Dog Mat

    Klymit Moon Dog Mat– A really tough blow up mat that makes all the difference when the ground is cold, or you just want a comfortable spot to put your pup. Like humans, dogs lose so much heat from the ground so having an elevated surface really helps. I don’t bring the outer cloth layer anymore as it just adds bulk and weight and I’ll almost always bring a doggy sleeping bag instead. The mat is also great in canoes or anywhere else you want a mat that’s waterproof. I love the inflation system and I’m not even nervous about dog nails on these tough mats.

    The Whlyd River Sleeping Bag that I carry on colder hikes

    Whlyd River sleeping bag– Discount code: WHISKEY10
    the best and warmest doggy sleeping bag out there. There’s so many options to adjust the bag to your needs and dog’s comfort, and a strap at the bottom to keep the bag on a mat. Available in 3 sizes we use Medium, Whiskey loves her bag and crawls right on as soon as I pull it out. There should be a down UL bag coming soon (the original uses synthetic insulation which is better for damp/wet conditions) that I would also totally recommend if you need to go light and don’t need the ultimate warmth the original provides. I use the UL bag during the day and slip the bag over the footbed of my own sleeping bag to keep me warm Whiskey Whiskey crawls in to join me. Another sidenote is that I normally take off most of Whiskey’s jackets if she’s going under the sleeping bag so she can warm up and so any dampness (it’s always damp where we are) doesn’t keep her cold.

    Gundogsupply collar– We have lots of fancy collars but tend to go to these basic collars with nameplates. I’ve lost too many collar tags to trust them and if for some reason I lose a dog, I want to know my contact information is going to be on her collar. The collars are super tough and reasonably priced.

    Our Ajax Marmot tent has lasted over a decade

    the Human

    Klymit extra wide sleeping bag– Whiskey sleeps in my sleeping bag with me at night (the dog mat and sleeping bag are for the rest of the time we are at camp because I don’t’ want her crawling in and out of my sleeping bag during the day). I haven’t found many options for extra wide bags and this one is amazing. It fits Whiskey and I with room to spare (I’ll report back if I can fit Bourbon as well) and comes in two warmth options. Please do note that when Whiskey’s in my bag I cannot keep the face section tightened so although Whiskey does add extra heat, the open bag does make it colder at the same time. Also, I take of Whiskey’s collar and clothing before she shares my bag so we don’t get tangled!

    Nemo Sleeping mat– Not a dog thing, but I find if I’m sleeping with a dog my mat needs to be higher, wider, and more comfortable since we’ll both be moving around. I love this mat and it’s been much warmer than other mats of the same warmth rating.

    for more Human hiking gear, here’s a more detailed post

    the Kitchen

    Dog bowl- I’ve tried the soft collapsible bowls but they break much easier (of two I’ve had both had holes from the dogs pawing at them). The fabric ones last but they’re a pain to clean when you feed something messy and leave food smells for the animals. I’m still looking for the perfect dog bowl!

    DogFood- I highly recommend Open Farm Freeze Dried Raw (code WHISKEY10). It’s super lightweight, comes with a suitable package (so you don’t need to repack), I use half of her daily allowance for recall treats, and Whiskey’s poops are always so good.

    Trying out my vintage 4 season tent, Whiskey chowing down on dinner with her dog mats

    Earth Rated Poop Bags- Use the compositable bags and dispose of dog poop when you also need to go (in a proper waste management method like a cat hole). Bring a freezer zip lock bag to place the poop until you can dispose of them so you don’t have an “accidents”. I normally ask Whiskey to carry her own.

    Bear Bag- Ursack- If you are camping in bear or critter country without suitable bear boxes, animals can easily get into your food at night. I really suggest these bear and critter proof bags to keep your food and seal it in a scent-proof bag (drybag) if you can. They’re heavy and an nuisance to carry but it also means you’re not attracting and feeding wildlife, putting yourself in danger, making sure your campsite stays open, and of course that your food isn’t eaten.

    My Ursack poking through the bottom of my frost covered tent

    the Extras

    night light dog collar– There are clip on lights for dogs in the evenings but I’ve preferred these light up collars as others can see it’s a dog easier (it’s so scary if your dog walks by someone else’s campsite at night but much less threatening if they look like they’re ready to party). It’s also less likely that your dog may turn around and the light is obscured.

    Bug Protection- I’ve tried everything and nothing “natural” works for more than 5 mins. If it’s bad I’ll keep Whiskey in the tent, cover her with a jacket/blanket, or put a jacket on her that I’ve sprayed with DEET. Otherwise you just have to keep moving. I believe Hurtta makes a bug suit but I’ve never tried it as Whiskey’s not allergic.

    Winter camping involves more gear, but cabin winter camping is at least tent-less

    Dog jackets- We’ve done loads of reviews on dog jackets but I didn’t want to ignore the need of protection in the evening when the temperature drops. Like humans it’s good to have layers, fleece, waterproof options, and maybe even a base layer depending on where you are going. The doggy bag is super warm but if you’re going to be out for long periods of time, having options is always great!

    H2O4K9 Stainless Steel K9 Water Bottle– the “insulated” leaks- I normally carry a water bladder and hike in locations with loads of water so I don’t normally ever need to carry water for Whiskey. However if you do need a dog water bottle, this is the best one I’ve found. You can pour the unused water right back in so nothing is wasted and the lid doesn’t add much weight and works really well for Whiskey.

    Sometimes I bring too much! This hike I have my boat and paddles attached to my bag

    First Aid

    Paw Wax- Pup Wax– I keep a tiny tin and apply on my pups paws at night while giving the paws a close inspection especially on rocky and long multi-days. It’s so important to check their paws as much as possible because if you can catch a cut early and boot it, you can save yourself the trip, a rescue call, or carrying your dog the rest of the way. Try and make it a nightly ritual! You can also apply to sunburnt noses and your own hands and feet if they’ve been overworked.

    Allergy Pills- I keep Benedryl and Reactine with me on most hikes. Allergy reactions are one of the most common issues (wasps, bugs, plants, etc). It’s good to know your dog’s dose of the drugs and write them down.

    Activated Charcoal– Eating human feces with THC is highly poisonous and getting more common. Write your dog’s dose of charcoal and keep on hand if you are on a busier campground/trail/bike trail. I’m the crazy dog owner that goes out of my way to inform anyone I see smoking that my dog can die if they don’t dig a deep enough cat hole.

    Duct Tape/Zip lock baggy/bandages- These are part of my normal human first aid kit that I find the most useful crossover to dogs. Duct tape can help wounds, make booties, mend broken gear. Zip lock bags (go for the freezer ones) are useful in so many ways but can help keep something waterproof. Bandages are self explanatory!

    Whiskey wearing her emergency bootie (she had a small cut) on a lunch break (packs off)

    Booties– I normally bring an emergency bootie on long or serious camp trips. Boots that fit every single paw is best if you don’t want to bring the entire set so we go with Muttlucks (I can strap on really tightly and kept one on for 5 days of backcountry last year). If there’s any reason you may suspect your dog may need boots outside of an emergency (bad cut on glass for example) then bring an entire set and stay on the safer side.

    Garmin InReach Device– should anything happen on your hike where you would need help (or come across someone else that may need help), you can communicate out of reception with any cell phone number or email (as well as SOS emergency systems). You can also track your location with GPS and check weather systems coming in.

    Emergency Harness- I mention this as it’s something my friends have been pondering, some buying. You need to have some way to carry out your own dog should they become injured or sick. Whiskey’s just over 50lbs and I can carry her slowly over short distances on my shoulders and I do prefer that over a harness situation. Regardless, make sure you have a way to carry your dog and that you practice it before you need to. If you don’t regularly bring an emergency harness, practice carrying your dog over your shoulders (behind your neck) with their legs on either side so your dog feels comfortable and so you can get in and out of the position.

  • Dehyrating pet treats

    Dehyrating pet treats

     

    dehydrating beef liver

    So because I’ve been taking more photos recently since joining Instagram @mywhiskeygirl, I’ve also been paying out much more treats for beautiful Whiskey poses. Whiskey (and most dogs) don’t work for free! My cat Moo, also gets treats daily for using the human toilet, and just being cute ๐Ÿ™‚ There are cheaper treats out there (using flour or chicken meal) but of course, my pets prefer the more expensive ones which tend to be the one-ingredient dehydrated meat! It also makes me feel better knowing I don’t have to count how many I give her calorie-wise although I am much poorer for it.

    local beef liver from our raw food provider

    Eventually, I started thinking to make my own treats by purchasing a dehydrator off Amazon and asking my regular dog-meat provider for extra beef liver to make treats. I got a larger tray dehydrator because it seemed quieter and had a fan so you didn’t need to constantly rotate the trays for even drying. However, I would have liked a timer on the dehydrator so I could have it run overnight without waking up to turn it off.

    chop up liver into smaller slices

    Lay out liver on trays

    Dehydration turned out super simple, especially if your meat provider has already sliced up the meat ahead of time. Just make sure the meat is fully dried and keep them in the fridge or freezer if you are not using them immediately. I also chop them into smaller pieces to make handouts easier. Of course, you can also hydrate human food too (we’ve done beef jerky but I’ve yet to get the recipe perfect).

    Dehydrate at highest temperature until fully dry at thickest parts

    Finished treats, chop up for handouts