The Dog Walks Me

Tag: rockies

  • How to: the Unbelievable Moraine Lake with Dogs

    How to: the Unbelievable Moraine Lake with Dogs

    Moraine Lake

    One of the most famous and busy lakes in the world, Moraine lake is iconic and was featured on our older $20 bill. I’ve taken my Vizsla Whiskey loads of times for day trips and hikes and when I got Bourbon, my new Vizsla puppy, I took her on the 11 hour drive as soon as I got her.

    10 week old Bourbon could hike up the 350m to the Rockpile for photos

    Banff National Park

    Moraine Lake with dogs? Yes! Dogs are allowed in Banff National Park! Unlike the American National Parks, dogs are allowed on most trails and in the backcountry however there are expectations including times of the year for specific areas and trails.

    We love all seasons at Moraine Lake!

    Dogs must be on leash for many reasons including your safety, their own safety, and wildlife safety. There are loads of Grizzlies, Black Bears, Moose, Elk, and Porcupine to name a few. I’ve seen all of these animals within the park and I’m not a local! It goes without saying, please pick up after your pet, and keep your dog on a tight leash, under control around other dogs and all the chipmunks that beg for treats everywhere (I’ve never seen fatter chipmunks around).

    Elk, Moose, Bear, and Porcupine can all be dangerous

    There are lots of garbage cans and toilets at the parking and the National Park is pristine so please help keep it dog friendly for all of us!

    Getting there

    Moraine Lake is located in Banff National Park right on the edge between Alberta and British Columbia (on the Alberta side). You can see mountains in British Columbia right at the lake. The road to Moraine Lake branches off the road to Lake Louise, the closest gas station and town.

    A long drive with the dogs but worth it!

    It’s about 2 hours 20 minutes from Calgary and 9 hours 30 mins from Vancouver (I’m 10 hours 30 mins away in Squamish, BC). Banff National Park and Moraine Lake is one of the most accessible locations for Canadian beauty. So many of the most famous lake are less than 400m walking distance from parking lots and the roads around the area top the most scenic of the world.

    Moraine Lake Road and Parking

    Getting to Moraine Lake with a dog is most of the battle. The easiest way to guarantee getting there without a dog, is using the shuttle or booking a tour. However, the buses don’t allow dogs so the only way to get to Moraine lake with a dog is driving or hiking. Assuming you aren’t hiking in (13km or so, one way, from Lake Louise), you’re going to want to drive in.

    Coming towards the end of the season is less busy

    Moraine Lake Road opens seasonally so first see if the roads are open for the year. You can ski or bike up the road off-season but it may be too long to go with your dog back and forth.

    Dogs must be on leash

    When it is open, Moraine Lake parking lot tends to fill up in the mornings around 530am on weekdays and 5am on weekends although people do leave and the attendants will slowly let people in throughout the day. The parking lot is very small for the demand so if you’re set on making it, get there early! During high season such a Canadian long weekends or larch season, the parking can fill before 430 am! Please also note that you must enter Moraine Lake Rd from Lake Louise (no left turn from Lake Louise Drive).

    We usually only stay an hour for photos if we are not hiking here

    Normally you cannot “line up” with your car on the road to get in, so it’s luck while you drive by the road entrance if they’re allowing cars in or not. Somehow we’ve always had luck getting in with some persistence. If the road is closed, you can loop back through the village and through Lake Louise Lake but the loop can take up to 30mins and the road may still be closed so be prepared or just come early. You cannot sleep overnight in the parking lot, and you do need a Parks Pass in order to park. I’ve also had luck coming at the end of the day around sunset after the hikers and families have left.

    Bourbon and Thierry at the beach

    Photo Ops at Moraine Lake Rockpile Trail

    Most of the photos you’ll see of Moraine Lake are all taken from the Rockpile Trail. It’s about 300m from parking and one of the best views you’ll see with so little effort. Even so, the trail is not wheelchair friendly and has stone and log steps. There are lots of chipmunks and pikas teasing the dogs and begging for crumbs so watch your dogs on leash!

    Lots of places to take photos at the Rockpile
    Tourists lining up to take photos with Whiskey (2018)

    We took Bourbon here at 10 weeks old and she found someone’s leftover chicken wing in the bushes. The scream she let out when we took it away frightened a couple tourists! Whiskey normally has a line up of Asian tourists waiting to take photos with her here. I usually place her on the wall and we’ll get at least 10 people taking photos with her. She absolutely loves the attention while Bourbon’s trying to track chipmunks.

    Bourbon’s first adventure

    Paddling Moraine Lake with Dogs

    The Canoe Rentals at Moraine Lake are run by the Moraine Lake Lodge. The lodge and the canoes are not dog friendly so you must bring your own boat to paddle with. For reference the canoes are only rented from around mid-June to mid-September and are around $130 Cad an hour (!!).

    Finally a calm day for a paddle!

    The lake is actually quite windy I’ve found and we’ve had to come repeatedly in order to find a day to paddle with low winds. We launched some Oru Kayaks from the beach and paddled down the lake at sunrise with both girls on my lap. It was one of the best and most peaceful memories I’ve had at the Rockies. This was in October when no one else was out on the water.

    Sunrise with two pups on an Oru kayak

    There’s also been another trip in October where we bundled up and launched a packraft when I just had Whiskey. It’s more stable with winds but also a bit colder to sit in. I really suggest coming out with a paddleboard or kayak if you have the chance!

    Alpacka Rafts are amazing and pack down light

    Day hikes

    Moraine Lake is known for the Larch Season in September when the larches turn golden and crowds from all over come to see the autumn colors. Larch Valley on the way to Sentinel Pass is one of the easiest Larch hikes, around 535 m gain and 4.3 kms one way on a non-technical trail.

    Larch Valley in the autumn
    Sentinel Pass

    There are also several other hikes that I haven’t yet had time to try. I’m pretty sure my girls would be able to do the Tower of Babel scramble, as well as Panorama Ridge passing by Consolation Lakes. I’m not sure if Eiffel Peak or Mount Temple or Wastach Mountain is dog-doable but one day we might see!

    Lake Annette from Paradise Valley

    Another hike that starts on the Moraine Lake Road, but not the lake is Lake Annette and the Giant Steps. If you hike far enough into Paradise Valley, you come out the other side of Sentinel pass and end up in Moraine Lake but I think most people take that as a multi-day trip. You would need to hike down the road or catch a lift with someone if you wanted to do that road-trip but it might be worth it! We’ve done up to Giant Steps but because of a heat-wave and Covid, did not want to chance the road mid-day.

    Where to stay

    Since the Moraine Lake Lodge is not dog-friendly you’ll have to stay off the lake for your visit! The nearby famous Fairmount Chateau Lake Louise is dog-friendly but extremely luxurious and expensive. I tend to camp at the Lake Louise campgrounds or stay at a hotel in nearby Canmore. The campgrounds are utilitarian but a great location, clean, and dog-friendly.

    Lake Louise campground
  • Amazing Adventure Camping at Floe Lake (Rockwall Trail) with Dogs

    Amazing Adventure Camping at Floe Lake (Rockwall Trail) with Dogs

    The Draw

    Just google Floe Lake and Rockwall trail and you’ll know why it’s one of the most popular trails and locations. In fact, that’s probably how you got to this blogpost. It’s accessible, and possible as a day hike or run. The entire 55km Rockwall trail can be done in 3-5 days but the highlight is definitely Floe Lake and Numa Pass. Usually most people hike from Paint Pots to Floe Lake and we wanted to do the same, but booking the trail because our biggest issue.

    The view from camp

    Dogs are allowed on Rockwall trail but must be on leash, and there is wildlife (more about that later) that you must be prepared for (even on leash!).

    Floe Lake in the morning with overhead clouds

    Booking

    The Rockwall trail is a classic of the Canadian Rockies and difficult to book campsites in! I waited in line online when the booking opened and was 7000s on cue. By the time I got to book, most everything was taken. Floe Lake campsites is one of the most popular backcountry sites in the Rockies so of course it was taken. I booked some random days in Tumbling creek campground and Numa creek campground and hoped for cancellations. You can hike into each campground from the road and I just really wanted to see Floe lake with the dogs.

    The weather was mixed, some rain and some sun!

    Eventually, we checked daily and were able to secure cancellations at Floe Lake during our vacation time. We booked every cancellation we could and joined up the dates (and cancelled the ones we were not going to use). Unfortunately the way the booking system works is that your reservation fee is separate than a booking fee and you do not get the booking fee back. In the end there’s no benefit to cancelling an unused reservation (you will not get your money back) other than to let someone else use the campsite. I strongly encourage everyone to cancel unused campsites though, because it’s so limited and for all the evenings we were at Floe, there were usually unused tent pads.

    One of our day treks took us to a quiet pass

    Our Plan

    Because we were not able to book campgrounds in order for the Rockwall trail, we just aimed to book whatever we could at Floe Lake and do day hikes from the campground. Since Numa Pass and Floe were the highlights of Rockwall, we figured we would explore Numa Pass and check out other areas we could hike to within a day. Everything would be limited to what the dogs could do (Bodhi gets heat stroke and isn’t the most agile of dogs) and what we felt like!

    Above Floe Lake looking onto Numa Pass

    The Hike In: Floe Lake Trailhead to Floe Lake

    The hike in is not technically difficult, and about 10.5km from the Floe lake Trailhead. Most of the trail is narrow with a slight incline across a forest that is bare from a recent forest fire. When we hiked in, the trail was very overgrown to the point your couldn’t see your own feet and made for difficult footing with a dog on leash in front and a huge pack with awkward balancing. The trail is mostly exposed so if you’re heading out in the summer with dogs that are sensitive to heat, head out as early as possible.

    Hiking into Floe from Floe Lake Trailhead

    At some point near the end of the trail (at 8km) the trail climbs up dramatically and then you’re at the lake. There is a couple water sources that may or may not be running in the summer but we had access to water before the climb. This was my first hike with a pack in the year so I really struggled in the heat! Erica was kind enough to wait for me in the bug-infested breaks I had to take. I also lost a water filter I had not secured well enough to the front of the pack. All and all, not my best hike, but we did get there eventually!

    A rest log on the way into Floe Lake

    Wildlife

    Normally most people are worried about the Grizzlies and Black bears but we found porcupines and squirrels to be the most dangerous. Squirrels and chipmunks are awful because they run across your path without warning and then your dog instantaneously jumps at them pulling you and your 40lb bag down. Porcupines were a bit of a surprise! We encountered one on the hike up to Floe (halfway up the incline, so about kilometer 9 going in). It was right off the trail hidden, so Bodhi almost got quilled, on leash, on the trail before Erica saw what it was.

    Numa Pass, the porcupine was between this spot and the lake

    The second porcupine was between Floe Lake heading up Numa Pass, about 1km in. We never actually saw it, but Bourbon somehow got quilled by stepping on a quill on the ground after the dogs seemed VERY interested in sniffing around the area. Needless to say, keep an eye out for the creatures!

    Camping at Floe Lake

    Camping with a view

    The tent pads at Floe are all over a wide area, and not organized in any way we could understand. The best site with a view over the lake is the first ones you see as you hike in from the Floe trailhead. We chose one further away from others with dogs and settled in just as it started raining.

    There were 4 tables at the food area and a couple beaches

    There is a wonderful eating area with bear lockers right by the lake that has the best views. We loved starting and ending our day there, watching the light move across the mountains and lake and were always able to find a place to sit at a table or on the beach. The first couple days there were still ice floes moving across the lake but eventually they melted by the time we left.

    We fit 2 humans and 3 dogs into a decade old 3 person tent

    We met a couple dogs each day we were at the campsite but were able to steer clear of them without issues. Every evening we moved our tent closer and closer to the “best” spot and the last evening we snagged a photo-worthy tentpad!

    Day treks and scrambles from Floe Lake

    Looking down on Numa Pass

    In the end we stayed at Floe for 4 days, 3 evenings leaving us 2 days to explore. The first day took us to Numa Pass, up to a couple viewpoints, and a look at Numa Mountain. From the viewpoint, we then spotted some lakes in the far distance so we aimed for those (no trails, just wandering). We scrambled over a boulder field and scree and as the weather changed we decided to stop, take some photos and head back.

    Going for a walk!

    I had seen some treks to Numa Peak before we hiked out but there was very limited information on if the peak was doable with dogs or not. The next day we decided to aim for Numa and head back if it ended up being too difficult. It’s always hard to know how tough something is until you actually try the scree and test the angle. We made it to just below the notch of the peak before we stopped for lunch and called it. It would have been sketchy to get Bodhi past the point with exposure and the views would not have been better. We were just meters from the peak and were further along than we had been expecting!

    Looking at Numa Peak
    Numa Peak, we made it just before the notch

    Numa Peak was such a highlight, but I would not recommend it for people and dogs that are not comfortable hiking and scrambling. You can walk right up to the scree and see for yourself but there is no rescue or rangers here so you must be self sufficient and be extra careful if your dog is not full capable and under control. I also recommend a harness made for lifting, and paw care if your dog’s paws are not weathered for scree.

    The best views

    Would I hike the Rockwall trail again?

    Oh yes!! This was such a lovely location, very peaceful for how popular it is. Definitely be aware that you are in the backcountry and take extra precautions but Floe Lake was such a highlight of my year. I’m so thankful I have a friend to do this with, one that understands my dog limitations and is willing to camp, hike, explore and scramble with me!

  • Guide to Hiking and Camping at Assiniboine with Dogs

    Guide to Hiking and Camping at Assiniboine with Dogs

    Reaching Assiniboine’s epic views involves some logistics, and planning but it isn’t very difficult. Getting there with dogs is a whole different experience! For all the right reasons, dogs are not encouraged in the park and there are loads of limitations that can take quite a bit of researching to find out. I’m all for limiting the backcountry to dogs that are trained and have experience (imagine if anyone at your local dog park could fly their dog in for the weekend) as this place is so special and is chalk full of wildlife and there are a list of things to consider before attempting to come.

    Nub Peak with an oncoming winter storm to the left. We had to abandon camp early
    An easy day hike around Magog Lake

    Dogs are not allowed in any shelter, building, on the helicopter, on the bus to Sunshine valley, nor the gondola. They must be under control and on leash. There is abundant wildlife everywhere!

    At Lake Magog with Mount Assiniboine looking over
    With Erica coming in through the Assiniboine pass and meadows full of ground squirrels
    Views from Nublet are hard to beat
    Sunshine Village Route from top of Gondola

    There are 3 main ways of arriving into the main campground at Lake Magog (there’s others that are less well travelled, I’ll stick to the 3 main ones). The first and easiest is a quick helicopter ride from Mt Shark Trailhead but dogs are not allowed. The second is hiking in from Sunshine Village, however dogs are not allowed on the bus to Sunshine village, nor are they allowed up the gondola (so you can still do this, however it would likely involve at least one night camping along the way and more distance and incline than the next option). Lastly you can hike from Mount Shark trailhead taking either the Wonder Pass or Assiniboine Pass (the trail splits at about 15km mark).

    Wonder Pass is harder but well worth the effort on a sunny day during larch season

    Details/Tips/Tricks/Lessons Learnt

    Our tent can (and has) taken 1 foot of snow. We bring layers for dogs as well as humans, extra food, daypacks, rain gear and have seen deer, grouse, rabbit, grizzly, and marmot at camp.

    The trail from Mt Shark is about 30km to the campsite give or take 2kms and dogs are not allowed in the shelters along the way. The camping along the route isn’t very special (also buggy!) so I’ve always hiked straight in. There is also a special trick to make the whole thing easier- although dogs are not allowed on helicopters, you can pay to fly in your bag, or gear. However, there are a couple things to note with this “trick”. The first is that you pick up your gear at Assiniboine lodge which is 2kms away from the campgrounds so you must be able to walk your bag over and back easily (I do not suggest a 50lb duffle bag at the end of a 30km hike!). In order to fly your gear in, you must check in your gear in Canmore prior to driving to the trailhead so make sure you time it right or you might not get your gear in time! The second time I did this hike, there was no such option available during Covid, so we had to carrying everything in.

    Last note is that it makes much more financial sense to fly in a person with 40lbs allotted gear if you have that possibility (instead of paying per lb for gear) but I’ve never been in a group large enough that we could fly someone in. Also if you have a problem, they will not fly your dog out, so make sure you have everything you need to hike yourself and your dog out!

    Hiking in through Assiniboine Pass with a full 5 day load pack

    I’ve done this trip twice, and each time it’s not gone to plan. Mother Nature likes to remind us that she’s boss and we need to roll with whatever she throws. The first time I did this hike in September we got snowed in the second night waking up with more than 1 foot of snow on our tent. The weather report said there was more coming and everyone started clearing the campgrounds, however we couldn’t join the exodus into the cabins because of Whiskey (no dogs allowed), so we ended up hiking out early several days early during an early winter storm. It was a mentally tough hike in snow that turned into relentless rain for a really really long day and at the point our minds had become really numb we almost walked right into a bull moose in the middle of the trail. Thankfully the moose didn’t charge us and went into the forest and we continued on until we got back to our car and into warm dry clothes.

    The second trip I came with Erica and her hiking pole broke early on and she experienced some really bad leg pains with an already injured knee. Since we had to carry all our gear in (45lbs+packs), our hike slowed to a crawl and we adjusted our trip to have many more rest days and cancelled a side camp trip to Og Lake. On both trips the weather was very difficult to predict and far from perfect (I have this luck that it’s always freezing on my trips). However the bad weather seemed to coincide with rest days and just makes me want to go again so I can finally experience the elusive Assiniboine experience that doesn’t need all my winter and rain gear.

    Winter storm hitting us while we are on Nublet

    What I’ve learned from these adventures to Assiniboine is

    • Book extra nights at the campgrounds so you can adjust your trip accordingly. Let the rangers know if you are leaving early though, so someone else can take your tent spot.
    • Fly some of your gear in, but pay attention to drop off and pick up times (non-covid times)
    • Use an Inreach Garmin to get an accurate weather report of the day (pay for the detailed report) and for a safety communication device. The ability to predict weather is worth so much if you’re heading out on a 6 hour hike alone in spotty weather.
    • Train for this hike if you are doing it in one day, train your dog, and train carrying the weight!
    • This location is PACKED full of wildlife including meadows full of ground squirrels, marmots under the outhouses, grouse, rabbit, deer, grizzly bear, and moose (I’ve seen every one of those on this trail!). You MUST have control of your dog (and I’m not just talking about hooking up a leash!) because if your dog pulls you towards every single squirrel you are going to be damaging your dog’s neck and you’re going to be dragged around like a puppet. You’ll have a much better time if you can hike and watch the wildlife with a dog calmly at your side.
    • Use hiking poles, your knees will thank you
    • If you are camping with dogs, study the campground map and find a quiet corner to camp at. I like site 16, although furthest from bathrooms and the shelters/bear caches, I will bother the least amount of people. Whiskey will have less chances to feel like she needs to warn me of people approaching (less anxiety for everyone) and I’ll be able to relax more.
    We are so grateful to be able to experience this place with our pups

    The Hike in From Mt Shark

    Hike from Mt Shark to Lake Magog with two passes

    Mt Shark trailhead starts from a long dirt road from Canmore with loads of potholes and corrugation that might have your teeth rattling. The road is exceptionally beautiful at sunrise and sunset if you can time it well! The trail head has great facilities including bathrooms, picnic tables and a large garbage. The trail actually take you across province lines (from Alberta to BC) and across park lines (although NOT timezones funny enough).

    There are several side trails so make sure you have a good GPS map when you start (every wrong turn will cost you extra this day). The beginning of the trail is nice, wide and flat and is the quickest part of the hike. Once you pass the bridge over spray river/lake you start into the forest where the trail narrows but is till really easy to follow and hike. You’ll pass by BR9 campsite and keep going towards Bryant Creek Shelter. There is water at the Spray Lakes bridge, at the campsites, and at Bryant Creek Shelter (with Br 13 and 14 close by). Remember dogs are not allowed in the shelter but perhaps during a storm it could be life saving.

    Wonder Pass with Larches in full glory
    Erica with Bodhi halfway up Sunburst for sunset
    Weather is always changing (at least with my luck). Check the weather as much as possible

    Here you need to decide if you are continuing onto Wonder Pass or Assiniboine pass. This is where the incline starts and you need to start working! Assiniboine pass is easier if you are carrying a ton of weight- it’s slightly longer but feels easier overall. Erica and I chose this way as she was in pain and it was the least impact. I also chose the for the way down during the storm I was hiking in on the first trip. Assiniboine pass has two options- hikers trail or horse trail. The hikers trail is higher with better views but is technically harder with more bridge crossings. The horse trail is lower in the valley and can be muddy with lots of shallow water crossings. Earlier in season I wouldn’t suggest the horse trail unless you don’t mind your feet being soaked but later in season the hiker’s pass may be closed and that may be the only option (as we experienced during the storm).

    Wonder Pass with Larches
    Trail from the lodge to camp is 2km of amazing

    Wonderpass takes you to Marvel lake, around the side of the lake, and up some switchbacks into the pass between Wonder Peak and The Towers. If you miss this pass on the walk in, it’s definitely worth a day hike from the campground! In the right season the larches are just amazing and the pass is a very easy hike from the lodge. During the height of summer, watch carefully your water sources if it’s warm and know that not all the creeks on the maps may be flowing.

    Hiking back in a storm, we went from snowstorm to rainstorm and then to a bull moose
    Looking at Sunburst Peak from the lakes
    Looking at Sunburst and Assiniboine from Nublet

    Once you have set up camp, you have loads of day hike options. The money shot is from the Nublet/Nub, a quick 7km+ (to Nublet) hike return from the campground. There’s loads of places to scramble and climb depending on your comfort level, as well as your dogs. Remember this is very remote and wild country with no rescue or fly-outs for your dog so please know your level and stay well within it. Even the Nub hike can have grizzlies so always bring bear spray and call out for bears.

    We’ve scrambled halfway up Sunburst Peak (no trail), all the way up Chucks ridge (no trail), Nub Peak via Elizabeth Lake (no trail), Windy Ridge (14km trail) and there’s still so much I want to do! For rest days you can walk around Lake Magog, Sunburst Lake, Cerulean Lake and Elizabeth Lake. In all, remember that the goal for your 30km hike isn’t to just get to Lake Magog, it’s to get there to start hiking so make sure you’re up for it!

    Scrambling up Nub from Elizabeth Lake (no trail)
    Windy Ridge, not a single person on the trail, not a technical trail
    Erica and Bodhi at Windy Ridge looking into Banff with a rainbow
    Chuck’s ridge was an adventure, totally not most-dogs friendly
    Only take mountain goats up scrambles!

    There are very few wild places like this that still allow dogs so please represent us dog owners well! Clean up after your pup, keep clear of other campers, keep on leash, and respect the wildlife. There are loads of birds and chipmunks at every eating station, a marmot lives under one of the outhouses, and we saw deer and grouse right at our tent (and a grizzly mom and cubs had been through our campsite while we were out). Scrambles are not easy so please hike well within your dog’s limits and please do not use earphones so you can hear and see wildlife! Lastly, don’t let your dogs lick the frogs on the trail, Bodhi had a bit of a reaction when he (on leash) had a taste of one!

    Girls and their dogs! It’s a ton of effort but so worthwhile
    Whiskey’s second time around and we still didn’t clear skies…next time!

    Here’s a list of dog camping gear that I can’t live without

    and a list of human hiking gear that I’ve grown to depend on over the years

  • Berg Lake 43kms in one day with dogs

    Berg Lake 43kms in one day with dogs

    Kinney Lake at sunrise

    Berg Lake is one of the world’s most beautiful lakes situated in Mount Robson Provincial Park, British Columbia, Canada. The trail takes you past Kinney Lake, Emperor Falls and is heavily trafficked with an elevation gain of 1509m. There are several campsites along the way to Berg Lake as well as 2 campsites at Berg Lake itself, however dogs are not allowed overnight at any campsite on the route. I have since found that you can hike yourself out of Mt Robson Park and into Jasper National Park and camp at Adolphus Lake with your dog but it would be a good 28km+ day with your pack and the lake is nothing special compared to Berg. Either option is NOT for the unexperienced and involve long distances with incline and you must be able to exit the park yourself with your dog without assistance. Both you AND your dog need to be conditioned to hiking exceptionally long distances, work as a team, and be on leash throughout. The trail is mostly narrow and graded as well as busy, mostly follows a clean water source, and would be extremely hard to get lost on.

    Erica with Bodhi the ridgeback at Berg Lake

    My good friend Erica has always wanted to do this hike with her ridgeback Bodhi and I happily agreed to the 40+km day. We have been hiking together for a couple years and have a similar pace and goals (of taking photos, completing the hike, and dealing with dogs). The trail is long but not technically hard at all with only one section of major incline. We packed as light as possible, and with many water sources along the way were not concerned about carrying much water. We used harnesses on the dogs because even though they’re trained not to pull, it’s an extremely long day and it’s best to reduce the tension on their necks. Leashes were attached to our daypacks around our waist (except for photo breaks) so we were hands free for hiking poles (another helpful piece of gear!).

    Approaching Kinney Lake

    Getting the earliest start possible is key in order have some wiggle room should anything unforeseen happen so we hit the trail at sunrise and got to Kinney Lake easily and quickly (about 7km). You can also bike this section but you must lock up your bike at the campground and hike the rest of the trail (we didn’t have space in our car for two bikes and the speed difference for us wasn’t’ worth it). We spent at least an hour trying to find a place to take photos of the lake before moving on. There seemed to be tent pads set up at the south end of Kinney Lake but they were all flooded and not in use.

    Kinney Lake from the campground
    Bodhi really cautiously crossing the Whitehorn Suspension Bridge

    After Kinney Lake Campground at the North area of Kinney Lake, there’s an option on our map to take the Kinney Flats Trail or the Forest trail, although during our hike we found the Kinney Flat trail wasn’t an option as the water was too high and the area was flooded. After that there’s a couple small bridges and flat sections that connect to the large suspension bridge over Robson River. This suspension bridge was the only obstacle that could have derailed the day if Bodhi refused to cross. Whiskey pranced across before I could even take photo but Bodhi took quite a bit of convincing and cheering to cross. To safely cross we let the dogs off leash so that there was only one person or dog on the bridge at a time to reduce swaying and to reduce any tangles. For Bodhi I was on one side while Erica was on the other so we could cheer him on from either side (Whiskey had already crossed to show him). Bodhi crawled his was across to safety and had a little prance to celebrate!

    White Falls
    Incline from White Falls to Emperor Falls

    After the bridge we passed Whitehorn Campground and continued onto White Falls. Stupidly we didn’t rewater before the incline (about 500m) and being a hot day, we both ran out of water pretty fast. We knew (and could see on our maps) that the waterfall was coming up quickly so we just kept going towards Emperor falls instead of heading back down to refill. Once we got to Emperor Falls, it provided the perfect air conditioning mist so all thoughts of needing water disappeared. We took photos for another 45mins before heading on to refill water at Emperor Falls Camp and onto our first glimpse of Berg Lake.

    Emperor Falls
    Nature’s air-con
    Approaching Berg Lake

    We approached Berg from the SW corner with gigantic glaciers framing the lake. At Marmot Campground, we debated if we should finish the hike a bit further on the NW side (Berg Lake Campground) or just call it done but we finally decided another 2kms (4 km total) wasn’t going to add much anyways so we went for it! I’m thankful we did because the beach at Berg Lake Campground was so much nicer and we threw off our shoes and took a little summer nap on the beach overlooking a turquoise lake with glaciers. We had a lovely section of the beach all to ourselves and the dogs promptly took a well deserved nap. I think we took a 1.5 hour break there with photos, food, and a dip.

    Having a really well deserved rest

    Keeping a close eye on the time, it was soon getting late and we had to put our shoes back on and head back. This time we stopped only for bathroom breaks and water refills and a long break at the bridge convincing Bodhi to cross again. It’s amazing how much faster the way back can seem without photo breaks and inclines.

    Whiskey having a roll in the sun
    the last stretch to and from Berg Lake

    Something interesting on the return, we noticed that the trail didn’t look familiar on the section as we got back to Kinney Lake. It was dark at that point so we just assumed we had remembered wrong but we would find out later there had been an avalanche during the day which had erased part of the trail and flooded other sections. Since we had maps and knew where we were aiming, we didn’t have any navigational issues but were confused at the time about the status of the trail (some sections were fully flooded!). The last 7kms were the longest of the day as they normally are, but we were soon back to the car, feeling good, and ready to sleep and get ready for our next adventure!

    Whiskey patiently waiting for Bodhi to cross the bridge again

    With this distance being non-technical, I found both dogs were tired (Bodhi especially) but no one had any impact aches and pains. Erica had some worsening foot injuries from unrelated events but overall I really did find the 40km+ hike wasn’t anywhere near as hard on our bodies as some 10km days in serious backcountry mountains or a 25km day carrying weight. I’d love to be back in the future with Bourbon and maybe even with a pack on my back!