Thinking about adding a second dog? Here’s I went through the journey, thoughts and what I learned through the process with my second Vizsla.
Things to Think About
I had been wanting to add a second dog for the longest time, but I really wanted to get it right. First I wanted to wait until Whiskey was fully trained and reliable with other dogs. Once she was 2 years, I really started thinking about a second but it took a couple years to convince my husband! After a couple more years, I realized Whiskey’s breeder wasn’t breeding anymore so I had to start my search for a breeder again.
There were 2 years where I was on the list for another breeder with close lines to Whiskey, but 4 breedings just did not work. A couple didn’t take, there was one litter of 3 boys one girl that was called for (I was set on a girl, here are reasons why), and one litter only had a single. After waiting for awhile I decided to search for another breeder and that journey took another 1 year. At this time Whiskey was 5 years old when I finally met Alpine Vizslas and got on the list for Vixen’s (Bourbon’s mom) last litter.
Bourbon at 8 weeks
During this journey of finding the right breeder, I had been pet-sitting as many dogs, especially female Vizsla dogs as I could. I wanted Whiskey to get used to the idea of sharing space and attention with other dogs, and for us to get used to how much work a second dog would be. It’s SO much easier pet-sitting another dog when your first is very reliable. Whiskey could be off leash heeling while I dealt with a second dog off-leash and I could pay 90% of my attention on the second dog while assuming Whiskey would make good decisions.
Bourbon with her littermates
At home, I knew Whiskey didn’t guard resources like food or people, and that although she didn’t love puppies, she would tolerate them, growling but not biting. Even when pushed Whiskey would growl and growl and eventually give up and let a puppy sit on her or take her toys. The one thing Whiskey did seem to have an issue with, is attention and discipline. She has issues with alpha females taking the attention of her humans, and can also be grumpy if dogs are not following the rules. By the time we introduced Bourbon, we had worked through so many of Whiskey’s emotions that we had a blueprint about what to do in most circumstances.
Bourbon and Whiskey, second day together
The Preparation
Once I knew we were getting a puppy, I tried to dog-sit as much as possible readying Whiskey. Also, Covid became a thing, and threw a wrench into plans of visiting the puppies with Whiskey (or at all). There was so much turmoil about how to actually get Bourbon across the border, I wasn’t even sure it would happen at some points.
Knowing that a new puppy would be very exciting, and that Whiskey needed so much attention, we decided that the best thing would be to introduce Bourbon to the house while Thierry was out on a roadtrip with Whiskey. That way I could get Bourbon used to a new house, new yard, new life, and then introduce Whiskey a couple days later.
First week together
The Introduction
When Whiskey came back home, we met outside (it’s always better to introduce dogs outside) and I asked Thierry to pick up fast-food. Whiskey LOVES food and doesn’t resource guard the food so I wanted to feed her something extra yummy while Bourbon got to meet Whiskey. It went really well! Whiskey was focused on the food, while Bourbon was focused on Whiskey and we both paid all the attention on Whiskey so she didn’t feel like she was missing out.
After the introduction (about 25mins outside), we went in and Whiskey went around the house sniffing Bourbon everywhere. For the first 2 weeks, Bourbon slept with me in my office, and Whiskey slept with Thierry in our bedroom. This was because I wanted to introduce Bourbon to the crate slowly, and it wasn’t fair to have Whiskey sleep in the crate but not Bourbon.
First months
After a couple years of training Whiskey, I had stopped using treats all the time but with a new puppy, I had to use treats everyday. I found that training the two dogs together built a bond, and a good relationship between the two. Whiskey loves training, and Bourbon would pick up quickly with Whiskey, so they both got treats for being around each other and focusing on me. Whiskey learned there were always treats with Bourbon around, and she got big extra treats for letting Bourbon touch her, or sleep next to her. Whiskey also got lots of praise and rewards for tolerating Bourbon’s antics and playing with her.
On a short hike with Bourbon and Whiskey
Whiskey also got lots of time away from Bourbon. She had separate walks away from the puppy (as much as I could) and I always asked everyone to greet Whiskey before Bourbon. Overall their relationship developed quicker and better than I expected. Whiskey never played with puppies, merely tolerated them but after a week, she was playing with Bourbon and letting her sleep with her.
Bourbon was absolutely in love with Whiskey. Since she was taken from her littermates, Whiskey was the one dog in her presence and because of Covid, we weren’t able to meet too many puppies (and always outside). Apart from the first meeting, Whiskey never growled at Bourbon and was extremely tolerant of her shark teeth.
Whiskey tolerating Bourbon’s lack of modelling abilities
The two were never left alone without supervision (or without Bourbon in a crate) and play was always closely watched. Because Bourbon could be a little devil, we would remove her from Whiskey if she was too much, and give Bourbon time outs. Whiskey was always quite happy when we put Bourbon in the crate for time outs giving me kisses!
One of the biggest recommendations I got from others about introducing a second dog, was to make sure we spent lots of time with the first dog one on one. Because Bourbon was too young to hike, Whiskey got lots of hikes with me, without Bourbon, and once Bourbon was old enough, she went to daycare to meet other dogs and on pack hikes.
A Year after
I feel like each dog has their own personalities but both my girls find comfort in each other now. Whiskey has a small amount of separation anxiety that Bourbon doesn’t have, and Bourbon is timid with challenges and new dogs. They each help the other deal with their own anxieties and become more confident. This could definitely go either way (they could pick up each other’s anxieties instead), but through a mixtures of luck and training, they’ve helped each other become better dogs.
Whiskey still helps Bourbon with physical challenges
I try and use the dog that doesn’t have anxiety to help the other through something difficult. Whiskey will wait on a bridge and cross it over and over again, while Bourbon will slowly work up her courage to try for it. Bourbon will keep Whiskey company when she could be lonely waiting for us to return.
Bourbon decided she liked to hug Whiskey
Adding a Third Dog?
Everyone keeps asking when the third will come! For now I will happily pet-sit all the dogs but for many reasons 2 is where we are at. Financially, it’s not currently possible, and then only 2 dogs fit into my sleeping bag, and barely that! I also only have 2 arms for 2 leashes and I’m not confident yet with Bourbon’s recall and reliability. We recently got to look after Merlin, the wirehaired Vizsla puppy and I absolutely loved it. The girls were great and everyone got along so well, however, I got absolutely no work done, and the amount of time and training a new dog takes is quite literally another job. For now, two!
Do you hate your Vizsla? Think you made a mistake? Guess what? It’s one of my most searched Vizsla terms and it’s not uncommon.
First, please ask your breeder for help and see if there are any genetic issues at play. Next, make sure your dog is healthy and there are no health issues (dogs will pee in the house or become aggressive have an infection, or are in pain for example). Outside of that, here are some common issues:
Peeing Everywhere
Do you have a fresh puppy that just pees inside? Maybe you take her outside for half an hour to potty and she just goes as soon as you get inside? Or maybe it’s raining outside and there’s absolutely no way anything will happen outside? There’s a ton of videos and writeups about how to housetrain a puppy but what you really need is patience. This rare commodity seems extremely unlikely as you spray buckets full of odor remover, buy paper towels in Costco amounts and stand outside in the rain for 30mins at 2am with an umbrella because your puppy just will *not* go.
It gets better. The description was Whiskey when we lived in an apartment and I had to run down the apartment 3x a night, in the rain, in my PJs. It felt like it took forever while other puppies never had a mistake at home. We had the bell, I would stand with treats, being very boring until she went, and celebrated every time. But guess what? It still took 3 months but since then, there’s never been a mistake. You’re not alone! But it’s a stage that does pass.
Bourbon with the spray and wipes that we needed
Puppy Sharkies
This is the biggest complaint! So many people think they’ve made the biggest mistake when they bring home the cutest puppy imaginable only for that puppy to turn into a shark. It’s called the sharkies when they bite, rip, and attack all moving things with their sharp puppy teeth and ruin shirts, jewelry, furniture, other dogs, and your own skin.
It’s not an understatement to say sharkies HURT! You wonder why you ever thought this was a good idea, and if they’ll just “grow out of it”. Also, a sharp scream and pulling your hand back whining (to show you are hurt) doesn’t seem to stop the devil. In fact, screams and loud NOs seem to urge the little monster to attack even more!
Puppies are SO cute but the devil sometimes
Diverting those sharp teeth to a toy or chew is essential for your survival. I had a bunch of different textured toys and soft chews all over my house, ready to pick up and exchange for my arm. As soon as the teeth touched skin while we played, I would replace with a toy. Play with your puppy using your toys, not your hands! One of the best chew toys are cardboard boxes leftover from Amazon orders. Your house may look like a mess but you’ll save your clothing, furniture, and skin.
Leaving the litter too soon may also make it harder for your puppy to have a softer mouth when playing. Littermates help puppies learn what is acceptable, as well as older puppy-friendly dogs. Whiskey was really instrumental in helping Bourbon learn what is appropriate play and what was not. If your Vizsla puppy has had enough play, and still insists on attacking you, you have to teach them to settle (self control, and learning their “off” button).
Inability to Settle Inside
Does your Vizsla have an off switch? Does your dog just go go go zooming around the house, destroying toys, clothes, and furniture along the way? Maybe he’s running laps jumping off the walls and attacking your other dogs?
Not all breeds can easily do this, but Vizslas have a genetic predisposition to have an off switch. Herding dogs must stay with their herd and be on guard and protect at all times, so shepherd dogs do not easily switch off. However, Vizslas should be able to settle and the younger you teach them, the easier your life will be. Vizslas were bred to run and hunt, but also to lay around when they weren’t working. You need to teach your dog they are not hunting and it’s time to turn off.
Settling just fine, FINALLY
First off, your dog must be tired. If they’ve just woken up and haven’t had a walk or time to play, you’re not going to have too much luck asking them to go back to sleep. Make sure they’ve had enough training, off leash running, and playing before you ask them to settle. For puppies, hold them tight with a calming demeanor, breathing slowly and soothing them to relax. This can take 3mins to half an hour or more the first time. Humming or calm music can help but the key is you must be relaxed and transfer that over. Over time, your dog should calm down, maybe sigh deeply, and relax their muscles. Let them go calmly once you feel the relaxation. Even if your puppy energizes up again, you can repeat the process until they fall asleep or change their energy.
Older dogs may need crates as it can be much harder to hold a bigger dog. Only let them out once they are calm, and once you are calm too! Your demeanor makes a huge difference. Play some calming music and make sure no one goes near or touches the crate to set them off. Cover the crate to shut out the world and makes sure that it’s comfortable and welcoming. If a chew toy doesn’t energize your dog, you can try one. Do not use a crate as a punishment, but see it as their own safe space to learn to relax. Make sure you let your pups out once they’ve calmed down.
Destruction and Aggression
Is your Vizsla dog aggressive? People aggressive? Does he destroy your shoes and clothing? Is he growling at your kids or if you touch her when she’s sleeping?
Bourbon running away
Aggression is more serious depending on the severity and issue. For this, get a good trainer that follows the latest techniques and is well respected by other trainers. Even just one session to help you understand the source of issues and a beginning to how to fix some.
Aggression can come in many forms, and sometimes it is not aggression but lack of exercise or direction. It would be much too hard to diagnose online so please seek help! Sometimes aggression is also genetic as I’ve known backyard breeders or unethical breeders breeding dogs with known aggression. There are many tools to help, but it does take time and effort and lots of patience and understanding.
Not listening, doesn’t come back
Goodbye Bourbon
We’ve all been through it, screaming and yelling and your dog clearly hears you but doesn’t come back. So you yell louder, and more seriously. GET BACK HERE NOW!!!! Unfortunately, recall isn’t taught by screaming louder and louder (who would want to run back to someone screaming like a maniac?).
Recall is hard. It takes time and it’s made harder and harder with distractions, prey, and distance. I’ve written a whole blogpost about recall, aiming specifically for off leash outdoors. There’s also a challenge to practice with if you’ve got a reliable recall in most situations.
Jumping on people, dogs
Does your dog jump up on people? Does he jump on kids, bikes, and tackle other dogs? Maybe she’s extra friendly and likes to meet people face to face? As cute as it can be, it can also be dangerous with the wrong people, kids, or dogs.
Jumping up on command
There’s a couple things that can help with constant jumping.
First off, don’t encourage jumping. If it’s cute when you enter the house and you reward with attention and playing, a dog will get very confused if you then yell at them when they jump on a friend or a child entering the house. Cut out any rewards for jumping, ever. Reward for 4 paws staying on the ground. Greet your dog only when they’re on the ground and reward (treats and attention) for that.
Next, have a command to jump, and a command to get down. I have UP UP and OFF. I reward for the OFF. Soon you’ll be able to anticipate a jump and yell OFF to keep all four paws on the ground. Jumping is fun, so reward for OFF.
Recall, when you do see your dog go after a child or bike when you’re outside. Work your way up to this recall by training with a friend. Start with slow moving close bikes, the easiest scenario and treat treat treat! Work with a long leash that you can step on if they go to run or jump. Train on the outside fence to a playground and work on keeping calm and all 4 paws on the ground. Work on recall with kids running (on the other side of the fence). Here’s more about recall.
Sensitive and Scared
Does your dog hide behind you? Maybe she won’t play with others, or maybe she shuts down easily and won’t come and play and cuddle? Maybe he barks when he gets scared and then runs away when there’s a loud noise?
It’s no fun having a dog that won’t engage and play but the sooner you work on their confidence, the easier it will be! Vizslas are a sensitive breed and are more prone to shutting down due to punishments than other dogs (like labs). They’re more sensitive to emotions, to loud noises, physical trauma, and challenges. While Whiskey, my elder, is very confident, she’s also very sensitive to emotions. Bourbon is very sensitive to anything she deems “scary” and will shut down with dogs that are too physical, and gets traumatized easily with a bad experience.
My derpy sensitive puppy
Having a sensitive dog can be great. They will pick up when you’re sad and act appropriately and will be aware of surroundings and people. However, too scared and sensitive can lead to anxieties and bolting. You’ll have to work on your dog’s confidence so they can approach a challenge, try something scary, and be proud when they’ve overcome an obstacle with your help.
First, if you have a scared dog, use positivity. You must approach with patience and encouragement, no screaming in frustration or plunking them down into something so scary they shut down. Positive reinforcement is key. Then work out the smallest micro-steps you can take to reaching more confidence in whatever is scary. Scared of dogs? Find the most placid older dog that doesn’t mind puppies and doesn’t approach, and go for a short walk with LOTS of treats. Noises? turn the TV on low and slowly increase while feeding peanut butter.
It can be extremely helpful to take some puppy or dog obedience classes in a controlled environment (with a very respected trainer) with lots of treats and positive reinforcement. If the issue is larger and your dog already has anxiety, work with a trainer one on one and see what you can do everyday to take baby steps. I found dog sports as well to really with connection and overcoming challenges. Training agility with Bourbon has helped her many fears and we’ve been taking micro-steps to approaching and touching a teeter tooter.
Other reasons you hate your Vizsla?
What are other reasons your Vizsla is terrible? There is hope and help! They’re the cutest puppies but this breed is not for everyone. Vizslas take more time, emotional space, and training that most other breeds, but be assured that whatever you put into them, you get back x10.
Here’s a list of recall challenges from easy to hard. If you’re struggling with what to do next in your recall training, this might give you an idea about how to move forwards. Actively seek challenges after your dog has a reliable recall when it is safe! Make sure you reward reward reward, and never yell or punish your dog when they come to you (even if it’s taking a VERY long time). There’s a load of resources online about how to reward your pup for recall so make sure you’ve got a basic recall before you can challenge.
Can you recall your dog from…
A dog approaching on leash
Approaching something tasty on the ground (that they would normally eat)
A dog approaching and staring straight at your dog
A human approaching offering treats
Birds/Squirrels at a distance (after your dog sees it)
An offleash dog approaching slowly
An offleash dog approaching quickly and staring at your dog
While your dog is eating something tasty on the ground (after your dog has taken a lick)
A human your dog knows and likes
A dog your dog knows and likes
Larger prey animal like Deer, Racoon, Cats, Porcupine
Predators like Bears, Coyotes
A human dressed in black, during dusk/dawn
A human stalking dressed in black, during dusk/dawn, on your property
Just a little note that I’m not a trainer, a professional in any way, this just just my opinion.
Puppy Whiskey in her crate
Everything I read about crate training 7 years ago told me to start crate training right away, from the day we brought out puppy home. Boy, I wish I had waited because it was easily the worst part of Whiskey’s puppyhood and we weren’t at our best when sleep deprived. With our new puppy Bourbon 6 years later, I couldn’t believe how easily we transitioned. The key was waiting.
Whiskey- by the book
We crate trained Whiskey from the first day we got her. It was in all the books, all the advice I could find and since we were in an apartment and both worked full time, I was anxious to make sure she was crate trained while we were both at work (for her own safety as well as our home). The first night that I popped her in the crate, was the first day we brought her home, away from her littermates, over a long flight from Quebec into this strange new place.
Whiskey cried and cried. She hated it. We stuck to the training plan, took her in and out of her crate 3 times a night when she cried, not sleeping for the first month. We had throw on close, run down to the main floor of our apartment (we lived on the second floor) holding her at 3am, with a leash and treats, to wait for her to potty, then back up into her crate, and back in bed. It was torturous and was hands down the worst part of puppyhood for us.
Crate training Whiskey was such a pain
Because of my research, I had thought to make sure Whiskey’s crate was den-sized. Not too big or she might pee in a corner is what the research showed. My poor girl was so miserable. We played crate games, we let her sleep during the day in her crate, we covered it up with blankets and played calming music. We put all her toys in there and fed her inside (she didn’t like to eat so it wasn’t’ helpful). I put in warmed toys, I slept outside her crate singing to her with my fingers through the bars.
Eventually after what seemed like forever (probably a couple of months) Whiskey would sleep through the night and we developed a routine. We also switched to the largest crate we could find and she was SO much happier. Whiskey NEVER went into her crate voluntarily during the day (and still to this day doesn’t). We left her in her crate when we went to work in the mornings and had a dog walker come take her out mid day. By 6 months of age she was left in the bedroom (only one accident ever) and a couple months later she had the run of the house during the day (Whiskey’s never ruined anything).
Whiskey totally preferred the bed (and still does)
Our experience with crating was so opposite others we had talked to, as well as my readings. Whiskey didn’t like a den, she liked the couch or bed. She was a confident dog and she’s never felt the need to “hide” from scary sounds or things and although we finally agreed on her crate as her bed to sleep in at night, she would still crawl in our bed if we forgot to lock the door (or if we travelled).
Bourbon- second time’s a charm!
Bourbon was allowed on the bed
When I got Bourbon, I was alone and so exhausted from travelling I just didn’t have the energy to deal with a screaming puppy all night long. I had a large crate with me in the room that I filled with blankets and toys, but let Bourbon crawl into bed around my neck and fall asleep.
Having seen Bourbon with her littermates in a warm puppy pile, and having just experienced her screaming her little brains out on the plane in a tiny carrier, I just couldn’t imagine she would be ok sleeping in another cold crate. Surprising (to me) Bourbon slept in bed with me for 7 HOURS the first night. At 8 weeks old! And when she woke up, she woke slowly and because I could feel her waking, I could slowly wake myself up. I didn’t have to jump up and throw on clothes in a rush. I had an extra 3 mins to become conscious, and cradle Bourbon, carrying her outside for a pee. It was AMAZING.
For the next month I slept with Bourbon. She was introduced to the small plastic crate for nap times during the day and accepted about an hour inside. Every evening I would put her into her crate with the door open, and she would crawl into bed with me (we were quarantining for the first 2 weeks and roadtripping for a week more) and she would slowly wake me when she need to pee. On average Bourbon would be able to hold it 6-7 hours at a time.
When we finally transitioned to a larger plastic crate a full month later, we put the entire gigantic crate in the bed between us (sorry no pictures but it was like this. Bourbon predictably screamed for the first 2 days (about 2 hours each) and then fell asleep. On the 3rd day it was about 20mins so crying, and on the 4th day maybe just 5. After that, we put the crate on the floor, and then after 3 months finally she was moved to her permanent crate. We had a regression of about an hour less of sleep when first moving her to the crate (because the screaming and crying and anxiety took so much out of her) so she would average 5-6 hours at a time compared to 6-7 in bed.
Because Bourbon loved sleeping in her Snoozer cave bed, we put one inside her permanent crate.
Vizslas have a habit of moving and taking up the entire bed so my husband has vetoed dogs sleeping in beds a long while ago. Bourbon’s also got a knack for face and throat punching but we still let her in to cuddle at night before bed, and in the morning before we wake.
In Summary
I really suggest sleeping with your puppy for the first week or two before transitioning to a crate. This is assuming your breeder hasn’t had the puppies already sleeping in separate crates (crate training) before you get them. I believe because they’re less anxious they can hold their bladder longer, giving everyone more sleep (and sanity) and it’ll be a more gentle wake up call instead of a scream and rush out. It’s less traumatizing moving from warm puppy piles and everything they’ve known.
Then if possible, sleep with the crate in bed and slowly move the crate to the location you prefer. It’s best if the crate is in your room, facing you so your pup can see you and you have quick and easy access and can hear them if they need to wake up at night to go. This might not be possible for everyone, but I found the whole experience (probably the one I was dreading the most) really lovely and got to bond with Bourbon in a way I really wish I could have had with Whiskey.
The girls in their homemade crate that Thierry put together.
Crate tips
Also, there’s quite a bit of advice to size your crate to your dog and only put an old towel there, but I’ve found both my girls like large spacious crates (the plastic ones are much preferred to the wired ones) with soft beds. There be concern that they’ll rip up the beds, or soil a larger crate but I just never experienced this and I stayed in the room while crate training. Bourbon had to be shown what to chew on, and given chews/toys but she’s never had the chance to tear into a bed. The longest we have crated her is 2 hours at a time currently.
I also monitor their crate times really closely especially the first weeks (and start with short stints) and only put them in after activity and when you think they should be tired (or bedtime). I do find playing the same soft music helps, and covering the crate with a blanket so they cannot see also helps. Lastly, pay attention to your puppy and see what they gravitate to, what makes them comfortable at home. For Bourbon it was the cavebed so we put that in her crate and she’s happier to sleep there at night.
Links
Puppy crate (borrow or find a used one for the first month)
Full sized crate (4 months and older, although Whiskey prefers 1 size up)
Do you struggle with recalling your dog reliably when they’re off leash in a new area full of smells, people, dogs, and noises? Here’s a guide to what I found was helpful with my girls!
Disclaimer First off, here’s a reminder that I AM NOT A PROFFESIONAL TRAINER, but here’s what I do with my Vizslas in order for us to have them off leash in our area. I hope some of this would be helpful, but most importantly start early, be consistent about practicing, and be patient (with yourself and your dog). Find a support network and ask for help!
With both Bourbon and Whiskey we let them off leash from day one in safer low-distraction areas (they were 8 weeks old). In both cases we didn’t have access to a fenced yard or fenced area but they were still allowed to roam free and recalled as soon as they went about 6 feet away with lots of yummy treats, praise and attention. The main dangers and distractions to avoid were people, cars, dogs, and wildlife.
I found that when they were very young they didn’t “see” as far away as we did and so it was much easier to recall and leash up before a person or dog walked close enough to be a problem. Recalling and learning their names took about a week or so, so in the beginning high pitched sounds like “beep bep beep bep” to recall, along with their names and a continuous “YES!!” that got more excitable as they ran towards you worked well. Yes, you will sound like a crazy person but the more you are willing to be insane and do anything to get your puppy’s attention, the more successful you’ll be. Always follow up with yummy treats to hold their attention once they are close! Start offering the treats but then quickly move to only offering treats once you have eye contact. Ideally wait for eye contact before you even touch or move your hand towards the rewards.
Your goal with recall is that you must make yourself more interesting than everything else in the environment. Pair up the name+treat+fun as quickly as you can and practice in harder environments. You can be more patient with interesting distractions but if your puppy is totally ignoring you, grab your pup quickly instead of calling and calling, and if possible drop the leash and practice the recall when the distraction is a bit further away and you are closer to your pup. See every distraction as an opportunity to practice recall, you only need to learn what is within the edge of success and work within that. The more success you can get, even if they are easy successes the more confidence and predictability you’ll have. Recall 5-20 times on every walk, you’ll collect the wins so fast!
When your puppy just starts to turn their head towards you as you call, first acknowledging you, you must build on that attention. Call you YESS! and do what you can to be cooler than whatever the distraction was. Try different things and see what works with your dog. Squeal progressively louder, or higher pitched, run away in a weird zig zag catch-me-if-you-can, drop to the ground, hide behind a tree.
When your pup approaches, don’t just stand there and hand over a treat. Toss the treat one way and run the other so your dog needs to catch you for the next treat. Roll the treat between your legs so they need to find it, hold the treat and lure them around a little bit, dropping bits into their mouth as you go. Make it FUN! Keep your voice happy, keep your attitude light. Would you want to run as fast as you can to someone that’s angry, yanks you, puts you on a leash and screams at your face? You’d probably want to run towards someone that is smiling, giving you $100, telling you how beautiful you look, and that they missed you and would you like a bar of your favorite chocolate?
If you’re prone to scream or be super stressed when recalling in difficult situations (ie you’re scared your dog is going to run into traffic and you cannot control your voice), then train your dog to associate your load scary screaming with urgency but NOT punishment or fear. Finally, even though you’re working on being fun with your dog, you still want to stay in charge and hold a confident demeanor, it can be a little bit of a weird line to walk on while making weird noises and playing hide and seek, but when you praise or command, it needs to be with confidence.
What is the distraction? See if you can figure out what has your dog’s attention and reward them with the same thing but better. If your dog is busy sniffing out something exciting, then recall them and scatter some treats here and there and ask them to use their nose to find it. If your puppy is old enough, teach them to do a sit/stay and then search for treats in a larger area on command. If your dog is distracted by chasing another dog, let them chase you a little bit, put a tree between you and make it hard for them to catch you, when they do, squeal and play and give them a treat. If your dog is distracted by a toy, bring a toy with you and recall straight to a tug or a ball or stick. If your dog is off chasing things that move, recall and throw treats further, make them run back and forth, maybe getting them to catch them in the air. Certain breeds of dogs will have better drive to recall for different things. Puppies tend to take food easier but as they grow up, work on increasing a drive that you can control (a drive to tug, a drive to fetch, a drive to do tricks, a drive to sniff). This will build your value to your dog that you are the only thing in the world that can provide the magical ball and will help not only your recall but your ability to hold their concentration over distractions.
Recall practice looks so different depending on where you live. If you’re in a rural area with loads of forest, but dangerous animals, or if you’re in the city with cars everywhere and only tiny busy parks, you can find a way to practice recall safely. A long line is a super long leash (20+ feet) that you can let your dog drag along (or you can hold it and unravel as needed) and just step on the line if your dog isn’t recalling. You can also use natural and man made barriers that control and slow down your dog. Baseball diamonds in the offseason, islands, mountains, or streams will keep most puppies in line (it really depends on breeds but my dogs will never cross water so I use that frequently as a natural barrier). Learn your dog and predict what their range will be in open land, or crowded forest. You can just do recall in the city with a 6 foot leash, walking around downtown and recalling off discarded food on the ground, other dogs, or interesting events. We used to find geese in the city parks and practice heeling and recall with our regular leash.
See if you can put these distractions in order for your dogs (from least to most distracting) and proactively find these distractions to recall from. Start from the furthest distance you can and work your way up to your dog interacting with the distraction and calling them back (ie mid squirrel stalk). Work on longer durations that you expect their concentration, and adjust depending on their moods, the environment and other factors.
Hide and seek- in a quiet safe area worked really well for us when they were young (not so effective with a teenager!). Vizslas and puppies especially want to be with their human so we would take just Bourbon or Whiskey out for a walk around a forest with big trees but no people. We would then hide as soon as she wandered far enough away and wait for her to notice we were missing. As soon as we could see her looking for us, we would call out and let her find us. It would become a game for her to make sure we were always close so we couldn’t go hide on her. We would also give her lots of treats and love when she did find us! You can also play this game with two people, one hiding, and when ready, ask your puppy to “find mommy”. Not only will your dog learn your “name”, but they’ll be learning to sniff you out to receive a big welcome, treat and love.
If you are going for a walk off leash and your dog or puppy checks in with you, always give praise and treats.
Fear of On-leashing-
Practice holding onto your dog’s collar and leashing and unleashing with treats. Some dogs understand that a recall means they must lose their freedom and go on leash and will play keep-away. Try walking on and off leash periodically and leash up calmly with a treat before and after touching or tugging the collar. It’s better if your dog does not shy away from you quickly grabbing and tugging on their collar incase of emergency so practice this without warning and give praises and treats . Always notice if your dog is tense or anxious and work within their boundaries. I like to tell my girls “leash up” so they know what’s happening and expect them to stand and wait for me to struggle for 30seconds.
If possible, find out the gamut of animals you may encounter and see if you can figure out which ones capture your dog’s attention the most to least. Find and work with the animal that is least interesting (ie crows are less interesting than pigeons, than ducks, than grouse). Practice calm sits, paw, lie downs around a crow from a distance.
Find out what is the closest distance you can practice training your dog and keep their attention with the animal around. It’s ok for them to notice the animal, just not run towards it. You want to practice a sit/stay/down before you practice recall. Recall with a long line or leash drag once you gain your own confidence. Slowly work your way closer to the animal, then work on a harder animal. Sometimes you may just need to have your dog beside you on leash, feeding them treats for half an hour until they are ready to train. Be patient, it’s worth it! Repeat daily and you’ll see improvement quickly!
Train “leave it” and increase self control which will help with everything involving recall, especially wild animals. Start “leave it” with low value treats or food, and slowly increase the duration, the food value, and the distance you are from your dog and treat. Depending on your dog and your goals, you can either release your dog to eat the food/meal/treat or you can provide a higher value reward and take away the treat. This can be practiced with leaving food found on the ground in a city, a pigeon on the sidewalk, or even good smelling coffee cup.
I use a variety of treats and I pay attention to which ones my dog values more. I use lower value treats for easier recalls, and give them a handful if they do something amazing. When I’m first introducing something new I use only high value treats. I always have a mix so my pup doesn’t get bored and so that I can reach in and try something different if needed. Because my training can use up a bag of treats quickly I like to use freeze dried raw food as a meal replacement. Sometimes people use kibble but I really think these are more highly valued (it only takes a quick test to find out!).
Notice what your dog likes as praise, not what you think your dog “should” like. Some dogs don’t like to be petted on their heads, or hugged. Vizslas tend to love attention and vocal praise as well as butt scratches but your dog might love a chin scratch and hate eye contact. Over time, if you can train your dog to like something more than treats (like a tug toy or a ball) you’ll have an easier time of training and a much cheaper time too! (also see the “Be Strategic” section.
Working dogs tend to have a drive for some type of “work”, you’ll just need to try different things along with treats and praises to see what may stick. Whiskey LOVES sticks and balls even more than treats as she loves to “work” and fetch is her work. The more options you have, the better when recalling. It’s likely your dog will not want to recall from chasing a goose unless she thinks you may have something even better for her like a squeaky bouncy ball that she can play with over and over. Lastly, sometimes “COME!” may not have been trained enough and have enough of a reward than another command like “FETCH” or “SIT”, if that’s the case, you can either recall with whatever command is working, and then work your recall command to be stronger, or include another command with your recall (ie sometimes it will help if I recall Whiskey and go immediately into a trick or two to get her mind fully off the distraction and onto me so my recall is stronger if I use a COME paired with a STUMP or PAW).
Once inawhile, pack something AMAZING like an entire beef patty or bacon, or roasted chicken in an airtight container and pull it out for a really good recall. This gets your dog just hoping to hit jackpot and addicted to the recall. You can also teach an emergency recall to a different command on top of your regular recall and train for extremely snappy returns that are always paired with jackpots.
Some dogs can run because they see or hear something frightening and they are essentially deaf to your voice at this point. It’s so important that you socialize your dog to all sorts of sounds, animals, people, and events all with positive reinforcements. Introduce new things well within your dog’s anxiety limits and be conservative with their reactions. If it doesn’t feel right, or you feel you are pushing it, then just take it slower. Some dogs will be totally fine with a busy city center, noises, cars backfiring, and motorcycles right next to them, but some other dogs may need a very very slow introduction to a bus beep. All the work you do when they are young will pay off, you just may not see it, because it won’t become a problem.
There are lots of dogs that may become deaf/blind to your calls when they start chasing prey and there may be very little you can do once your dog starts the chase. Start as early as you can to work on recall but there may be limits to recall from voice with certain dogs. There are many options and tools out there but please do research and train with a professional. If you can recognize the signals before your dog does run and can interrupt the sequence, that’s always great, but it may not be reasonable to expect perfect recall, ever with just your voice.
Lastly, having a puppy or dog that has many outlets for exercise, chase, play, and mental simulation will reduce their need and drive to run off. Changing up your park, meeting other dogs for playtime, and training sessions that mentally tire out your dog will reduce the amount of times they may not want to recall.
Recall like any training is not easy, nor is it a linear progression. There might be setbacks, and breakthroughs and ruts in the road. If you start when your dog is a puppy and continually reinforce throughout their lifetime, you’ll probably have an easier time than starting later and doing a big 6 months and then relaxing.
So much depends on the dog’s personality and breed. Herding dogs stay closer to the herd (you!), whereas hunting dogs are bred to find a scent and chase it for as long as it takes. Sled dogs are bred to survive and be independent, and protection dogs will naturally stay close. Unneutered males and females in heat will range, and teenager dogs 7months-1 year or so will challenge your status and commands. Keep all this in mind and remember that even if your dog is perfectly well trained, you will need to reinforce recall over their lifetimes and keep practicing what works for both of you.
There are loads of resources online for recall, specific issues, and for so many things I just touched upon. Work with a trainer, or read, listen, and watch what you can to learn. Here are a couple quick resources I threw together. Most of my learning comes from talking to friends, trainers, watching videos I don’t keep track of, and loads of trial and error. Don’t just follow one trainer or blog, read lots and make up your own mind what makes sense to you and your dog.
Bourbon: what to expect from a high energy Vizsla puppy
Here’s a diary of our first 5 months with Bourbon at home. It covers the flight home to our current situation. I’ve mentioned training, eating, chewing, hikes, dogs, distances, crates, and everything in-between.
Vaccinations: Bourbon was vaccinated before we got her, as well as at 10 weeks, and tittered at 16 weeks (she showed a high level of antibodies so no more vaccinations needed). Our area has no outbreak of Parvo (the biggest one to watch out for before letting your puppy on trails), and we kept to safe areas until her 10 week vaccination. We rarely visit dog parks and wouldn't suggest any until older.
Disclaimer: Other sources may have very different opinions on what's an appropriate time and length of walk for a dog of a certain age. The main takeaway is to avoid strain/impact on growing bones like jumping on hard surfaces, long down-climbs, sustained running/biking, really anything much on concrete, and extended distances. Every breed is very different (would you suggest the same exercise routine for a bulldog as for a Vizsla?) but I'm no expert.
I had wanted to avoid having to fly alone with Bourbon but because of Covid regulations, driving was not possible. Instead of a 6 hour drive, I had to complete a 14 hour door-to-door adventure with a brand new 8 week old puppy. We had 2 flights (Air Alaska), 2 car rides, Immigration, several security checks and lots of misadventures. The time waiting for flights in the airport was the hardest because I was alone (try going to the bathroom with your carry-on roller bag and a Vizsla puppy, with a mask in a busy airport). There was so much activity and noise that treats and chews weren’t really working as a distraction so I found running back and forth in a little section was the busiest I could keep Bourbon. We stayed away from any carpet in case she had to pee, and I laid out the puppy pee pads every chance I had.
I thought to board last so I don’t have to wait in a packed plane in line with a screaming dog and had the least possible amount of time in the airplane. I had chosen a seat at the back of the plane so we had some space and a quick walk to the bathroom (the puppy is supposed to stay in the bag the entire time but with Whiskey we found in order to let her pee, we would take her to the toilet, lay down a pee pad and she would go). Unfortunately the air hostess that reads out the take off instructions was located at the back right next to us and Bourbon screamed her little head off, so much so, that the air hostess was giggling over the intercom (Sorry!!).
Once we did take off I was allowed to put the soft crate bag in my lap and open the top so Bourbon’s head could see me and breathe. Thankfully after her screaming fit she fell asleep once we were in the air. Upon landing she woke up again and we tried to get through immigration as fast as possible. I declared my new puppy to import and paid a really small amount of fees before I found our car and headed home for another 1.5 hour drive. Bourbon thankfully was amazing in the car and didn’t get carsick the way Whiskey used to. I think the entire ordeal was pretty exhausting for us both.
Day 2 with the monsterBlep
Day 1-3
Arriving with Bourbon, I was living alone (in quarantine) for over the first week. Bourbon was expectedly confused with her new surroundings. Our home is about 1000sq ft, about half of it was baby-gated off. The first couple days Bourbon would cry if she wasn’t in the same room as me. If I left to go to the bathroom, she would get lost looking for me so I kept the doors opened, taught her to follow my voice, and laid out a soft dog bed in every room so she had a place to wait.
Our backyard is not fenced so I kept her on a leash in the front yard and let her trail a leash in the backyard. I had no idea what her bladder schedule was like so I took her out after every meal, every time she woke up, every half an hour she was awake, and treated and praised her for going outside. I didn’t have a harness ready because I had such a hard time trying to guess the size to get (big mistake) but luckily our cat harness fit for the first week until I could order and receive the Ruffwear Flagline harness (XS was loose but worked for her entire puppy-hood).
We still had a couple accidents inside, but never more than one a day, and overall Bourbon was much easier to housetrain than Whiskey (in an apartment vs a house). She however had a habit of stepping in her poop right after going so I had lots of use for dog wipes. I wasn’t working so it really helped I could just spend my time watching her and try to sneak in a shower or make a quick meal if she fell asleep.
I didn’t want to crate train right away as I felt horrible pulling Bourbon from her littermates to a cold plastic crate so Bourbon slept with me very happily. To be honest I was also too exhausted to add sleep deprivation into the mix so I kept delaying crate training until later. Bourbon also worked out her relationship with our cat Moo over the next couple weeks learning to fear the creature and also how to play “stalk and kill” with her.
Getting a sit stayLovely nap, now lets what can I chew on
First week- (8-9 weeks old)
5-7 hours sleep (in bed) 100m “walks” sit/paw/come
Our first week together I was mostly working on bonding, getting a solid sit, and practicing all the recall I could! We worked on chewing the right items and learning how to settle. She was a little shark and would just chew anything in sight so redirecting was a full time job (it’s easier if you have loads of toys of different textures available throughout the house always at an arms reach). Chews we used are listed here
Settling was very important, where you need to hold your pup and calm them when they are overly tired or out of control. It teaches them how to self regulate early, and how to put themselves to sleep. Bourbon was pretty good at this in the beginning but you had to be very firm and calm and totally ignore all the bites and wiggles. This gets much harder as they get older and smarter and we had to relearn this several times but it’s such a game changer. I find that the advice to yelp when they bite does NOT work when they are having sharkies (going nuts and biting everything). It only ramps them up and the yelping didn’t seem to work for anyone I talked to at this stage (during active sharkies). What really worked was slowing my own heartrate down, holding her in a way she couldn’t escape, and calmly (I know this is really hard when your hands are bleeding) saying “settle” or a cue word. Focusing on my own heartrate, transferring calmness to Bourbon really helped her relax. The key was to wait until she had this signature deep sigh and I knew she had settled. Sometimes I needed to repeat this multiple times but it made life so much easier.
I also lent Bourbon out to friends so they could take her around new situations because I was in quarantine and couldn’t expose her to everything I wanted to. It also helped to prevent separation anxiety and fears. My lovely friends took her to a café, to Home Depot, around different neighborhoods and trails (but did stay away from dog-busy frequently trafficked areas to avoid diseases). She stayed close and on leash and didn’t seem to mind a change of humans. I spent my free time cutting down blackberry bushes that Bourbon seemed to love chewing (they had large sharp thorns!).
At this point Bourbon wasn’t food motivated and had to learn that treats were to be valued (she preferred her own kibble to cheese). There was little to no attention span and self control. My main goal was to bond with her and find her motivations so I had something to work with in terms of training.
At night, Bourbon could sleep up 5-7 hours straight, one potty early morning, and back to another 5 hours. Sleeping with her was a dream and she was really sweet and cuddly.
I knew I wanted to switch Bourbon to raw food but I didn’t want to change her food right after a traumatic separation from her family and such a crazy transition though the airports and roads. I waited a couple days to make sure her poops were good, and then offered a bit of raw which she willingly ate. I tried a meal of half/half but Bourbon would pick out what was familiar (the kibble) so I fully switched the next meal to all raw and success! I then used the rest of the kibble as training treats until they were all finished. I didn’t seem to have any transition issues or tummy issues with the whole ordeal.
2nd weekTiny short forest walks (like 500m)
2nd week (9-10 weeks old)
5-7 hours sleep (in bed) 500m “walks” sit/paw/come/leave it/down/go potty
I thought I was getting the hang of settling but it got harder! Sharkies got worse with more bite, more energy and no fear. Bourbon was introduced to her first off leash walks in the forest where she stayed very close and recalled like a champ. I was able to introduce the concept of “leave it” so a tiny bit of self control, as well as crating when she needed a time out.
She continued to have zoomies and sharkies and was introduced to Whiskey. As soon as she had Whiskey, she just clung to her and would want to be playing with her or sitting on her so we needed to make sure that Whiskey wasn’t overwhelmed and had her own space. Whiskey had separate hikes during the day and slept in a different bed. However I did train the together, and treated Whiskey generously when she let Bourbon touch or cuddle with her (it took 48 hours). Bourbon just automatically gravitated towards Whiskey over any human and followed her lead. It was both easier and harder!
Out on the trails Bourbon would adventure and discover on her own. I slept with Bourbon and Thierry had Whiskey in another room with her regular crate routine. At this time we noticed Bourbon had some issues with being constrained and she had a fractured toe (from various accidents that made it worse). She also hinted at a guarding behavior. I started working on little training sessions to offset what I saw. I trained with treats and jackets (jackets seemed to trigger her), harness, and “leave it” commands. We also played games where we would play a little rough and hold her down for a second and let her go again which she was ok with.
First canoe tripsLake Louise in the Canadian Rockies
3-4 week (10-12 weeks old)
5-7 hours sleep 750m-1km “walks” (over an hour, lots of breaks) sit/paw/come/leave it/down/go potty/stay/boats/
As soon as I was out of quarantine, we went on a roadtrip and introduced Bourbon to many many new things. She lived in a car and a tiny trailer without issues. She had her first kayak and canoe rides, her first mini “hikes” on leash (.5km), met a ton of dogs and people, and tried some longer walks mixed with being carried. She still wasn’t fully bonded to us (happily would follow and walk off with a stranger or another dog) but was absolutely bonded to Whiskey. We maxed out at 30mins awake in a canoe and 40mins in a kayak. During this time we also did some meal replacement with freeze dried raw food for training and were getting much better recalls and sit/stays. Everything was chewed on and eaten and every dog needed to be greeted. We reinforced a routine even on the road with 3 feedings a day, and expected quiet times, and time for little adventures. Bourbon’s attention span got longer (measured in the amount of time she would chew something before losing interest).
I mentioned Bourbon had problems being constrained so I worked on making jackets a happy thing (she hated them and would fight them). I would always put on jackets with a treat and spent time putting them on and off as a training session. After a week she no problems with jackets. I worked on “leave it” to deal with guarding and made sure she felt safe eating. I made the dogs wait for their bowls longer and longer, and constantly took away chews for better options, or took away toys and gave them back. I haven’t seen much guarding other than no dropping a prized “treat” she finds outside since then.
We started introducing sleeping alone in her crate after a full month. It was about 1.5 hours of crying and screaming for 2 days (crate was in the bed with us) and on the 3rd night it was about half an hour before she went to sleep. We would let her out at around 5am for a potty and then she was allowed to sleep with us until we got up that morning. She regressed in terms of how long she could sleep without needing a potty break but eventually that extended until she could sleep all night. I’ll write a more full post about this soon!
Settling became easier as we both understood how to communicate to her better. We stopped having to crate her to settle and she started understanding NO. We got better at sit/stays and extending walks to 1.5kms towards the end of 4 weeks. Recall was constant work (and still is). Bourbon also had to learn to approach dogs gently and was reminded every week or so by a couple nips (nothing breaking skin), growls, and lessons from older dogs. The worst Whiskey would do would be a growl with teeth showing which we would allow and encourage Bourbon to respect the boundaries.
LOGLOG!!!First snow experience…not so happyFirst summit (assistance needed)
There seemed to be no fear of fireworks (during Halloween), of dogs, of people, or really anything. We slowly increased outdoor hiking time and distance while encouraging confidence but also caution. Bourbon was comfortable being carried on longer walks and learned to ask for help when needed (when she was cold or tired). She also learned to seek warmth and self regulate on walks (not just go totally nuts every time we took a break). I tried to hide on her in the forest to keep her range a big closer, although I’m not sure how much that worked since her confidence was already so high.
Bourbon continued chewing everything but with bigger jaw muscles and longer attention span. My computer speaker, a couple plants, some beautiful rugs and blankets, a dog bed and my tablet pen were all victims. Somehow she lost all her baby teeth without us finding a single one! Her favorite chew toy was her sister and she would regularly jump on Whiskey’s back and just start chewing. Whiskey was so patient with her!
Bourbon’s toe was finally healed but she was left with sensitivity to nails being clipped and handled (she was scared already before the injury which made it worse). We started experimenting with different methods to do her nails.
Bourbon was also introduced to snow for the first time, as well as some steeper rocky climbs and heights. We encouraged her to explore at her own comfort level and to find her own way up obstacles. She started being able to sit for lengths of time for photos and posing with other dogs.
More assistance down needed for longer hikesA week downtown was very exhausting for both of us
3 months home (5 months old)
9 hours sleep 4km “walks” (loads of breaks and carrying) sit/paw/come/leave it/down/go potty/stay/spin/touch/up working on exposure to downtown, walking on leash without pulling, prey drive
I rented a downtown apartment for a week to expose Bourbon alone to the city, noises, distractions, and buildings. She took to everything extremely well (including elevators) although the hardest was pigeons, crows, and falling leaves. My voice broke after all the high pitched calls and noises I was making to get her attention! Bourbon had loads of on-leash practice time (something we rarely do outside of the city) and got better at walking without pulling (with a ton of rewards and active training). I used the Ruffwear Flagline harness for all the on leash work and the handle was SO key to be able to lift her up in situations (such as eating something on the ground, walking into traffic, or big dog coming). I started being able to recall her off some dogs, some people, and some distractions. She started showing her stubbornness and personality but conversely insisted on following routines and schedules. Bourbon is a very clear communicator. Hikes with more and more cliffs were introduced as well as inclines (I carried her down any inclines if there was potential impact).
We started daily doing nail desensitizing trying different methods so we could clip or Dremel her nails. Since Whiskey’s never loved her nails done, we also trained Whiskey at the same time. As of writing this I’m 3 months into daily nail desensitizing and we’ve definitely improved but can still only get 1-4 of Bourbon’s nails done each session. Whiskey’s really easy at this point but I think it’ll still be another month at least with Bourbon.
This month was salmon season in full effect so we found out that Bourbon was an eater (of deer/elk/horse poop, and rotten carcasses) not a roller (Whiskey is typically a roller). Bourbon also loved to invent and play games by herself or with other pups. Her adult personality really became clear around this time and she started making up games to play such as throwing things down steep slopes so she could chase after them, or just watch them fall. We still hadn’t seen any fear stages show up.
Getting comfortable on rocky cliffs and mountainsAnother snowy summit. This time up and down all on her ownThe happiest girl!
4 months home (6 months old)
10 hours sleep 6km walks once a week, usually 2-3km walks twice a day offleash sit/paw/come/leave it/down/go potty/stay/up/spin/weave/high five/fetch/gogo working on distractions, faster recalls, nails, soft mouth
We were able to increase canoeing time to 1 hour and hikes to 6km with lots of rests (done rarely). I started cross country skiing with Bourbon and she learned how to avoid skis. Meals were down to 2 a day with no accidents in the house. Bourbon’s dog on dog greeting was pretty good at this point coming in friendly but submissive and flipping over as soon as a dog shows any aggression. She listened to and responded to recalls from people/dogs but only after saying hi first. We were about 50/50 successful on recall from people/dogs before she said hello from a decent distance.
At this point there was some giardia going around our neighborhood and both Whiskey and Bourbon took turns having the runs, but nothing terrible. I switched them on home cooked food for a couple days but there didn’t seem to be any cause to worry (I would have worried if it was my first dog). Bourbon’s range increased to about 200m within sight but overall ranged close enough for me to see her in forests and was very hard to hide from (even if I hid she tracked me down fast). She was also independent enough to play with herself during hiking breaks and would wander off to chase pinecones around instead of begging for food.
Getting better a higher logs and balancingLonger hikes with little to no impactRocking the modelling world
5 months home (7 months old)
10 hours sleep/almost adult bladder 8 km flat walks once a week, usually 2-3km walks twice a day offleash sit/paw/come/leave it/down/go potty/stay/up/spin/weave/high five/fetch/all with dog and people distractions working on nails, recall from dogs, loose leash, attention span, fetch, not chewing the wrong things
Bourbon is reaching the weight limit that I can carry on steep terrain. We are always working on recall and checking in, as well as walking with dogs she is to ignore. She’s successfully done a couple hard log crossing that full sized dogs would be afraid of. She’s shown cliff awareness but I still don’t feel safe with her off leash around death drops (likely for several more months!). We’ve done enough skiing (even one backcountry) and she’s aware not to get in the way of skis and she’s been ok in multiple types of clothing and doggy sleeping bags. Our bond has really grown but she still show no separation issues on the rare times we have a chance to leave her with someone else. She’s a very curious and thoughtful puppy and loves games to keep her brain occupied.
She chews inappropriate things now about once a week and is allowed around the rest of the house (no more baby gates). Because of Covid we haven’t practiced leaving her for periods of time in her crate. We are practicing sit/stays/recalls etc around other dogs, in dog parks, and highly distracted areas. Her stomach seems pretty strong for all the things she ingests without getting sick. I’m still working on snappy recalls and trust as well as teaching her to settle when bored (she normally goes off to find something to destroy or make up her own games at home). Bourbon still seems totally fine on her own or with Whiskey, with a different pack of dogs, or solo. Hopefully at some point when the border opens, we can get her trained on birds!
We have always loved different ways of exploring the great outdoors and paddling has always been a wonderful option and complement to all the hiking and camping we do. Over her life, Whiskey has been on paddleboards, canoes of all types, kayaks, and rafts, as well as motorized boats and if you’re wanting to introduce your own pup to watercraft, I hope this gives you a couple tricks and tips we’ve learned!
One of our first longer canoe rides
Choose a Location and Watercraft
Although normally the goal is to stay dry, it’s a good idea to start in an area where the consequences of falling in are not going to be traumatizing or dangerous. If possible find a smaller lake or pool where the water isn’t too cold, on a day without much wind. Beach access is normally easier than docks for getting in and out (especially while holding a dog) and of course it helps if the location is dog-friendly! It also helps if you choose an area with very little distractions (no people, noises, wildlife) so your dog is already calm before adding in a boat.
packrafts are really stable and can be taken to shallow areas (this is our Alpacka raft)
Paddleboards and rafts are the most stable, and hardest to flip while also being easier to lift a swimming dog back in and load up. If you’re using a canoe or kayak, try to aim for one that’s as large and wide as possible for stability.
Whiskey likes to point at things and put her paws up on the
Because Whiskey loves her comforts, it helps our princess to always have plenty of soft blankets for her to lie on. Start on land, just asking your pup to sit in the watercraft and lie down with treats on hand and lots of praise. I always bring treats when we try something new, and I don’t skimp on them at all! It also really helps to have a calm tired dog, like after a long walk.
Loading Up
Start with small sessions and with each success, take a break, enjoy the sun, and then try for a longer one if all is going well (and there is no stress). If you feel like it was a bit of a challenge, then call it a day and end with a success.
Paddling gets us away from the crowds
Keep everyone involved calm, even bored acting when you launch. It can also help if you have a friend hold your pup until you’re settled before bringing the dog with you on the watercraft.
sitting on a paddleboard is a good way to start
If you’re using a paddleboard, sit or kneel so you’re closest to your dog. If your watercraft is large enough and you can fit two people, see if one person can have 100% of their attention on the dog.
Once your dog is doing well, move away from the shore or dock to discourage them trying to jump back out (Whiskey sometimes jumps onto shore if we are too close, and then will hop back in at her leisure which makes everything wet and tippy for the humans!).
we now have our own Oru kayak!
Be aware that if your family is spread between different boats, your dog might try to get to the other people, so keep the boats further apart until everyone is comfortable. Whiskey is much calmer when I’m the only one out, but if dad is on shore, or in another boat, she constantly wants to say hi and will stand up and wander around.
little Ginger is a bit easier to train in a canoe as she can’t jump out as easily or tip the boat
With puppies you will have less control so it’s really essential that they are tired! It’s really great to introduce your puppy before they’ve developed fears so just watch your puppy and go at their comfort level and pace. Treats and commands aren’t usually as effective with puppies, so make sure they can be comfortable and keep everything positive and happy, even if you end up in the water!
Dog Training commands that help in boats
–Sit/Stay prevent premature exits –Lie down/Stay during distractions and to make life easy –Leave it for distractions on the water including birds, seals, other boaters –In/Out (release command) so you can get into the boat first comfortably
Safety gear
We use the Outward Hound jacket
For calm water, smaller lakes, and paddles close to shore we don’t normally use a life jacket (I’m a long distance swimmer, and Whiskey has no problem swimming distances). However, we do have a lifejacket for ocean paddles, or trickier situations. We use an Outward Hound Standley Sport Life Jacket with Whiskey but other brands should also work well (we see alot people happy with the Ruffwear version). The main thing to look for is that the jacket has a handle so you can easily lift your dog back into the watercraft (or keep your dog from jumping out), a place to clip on a leash, sufficient padding, and a good fit. If you have a dog that might take off swimming after a duck, keep a long leash on them just in case!
I’m always searching for more ways to keep my little one out of trouble. She has a super short attention span for games like fetch or simple training exercises but still has loads of energy to burn off. I wish we could spend all day in the park, but alas…not possible! If there was only an “off” button to these little zoomies!
So other than long walks outside, I’ve been looking for things to get her tired inside. We’ve trained lots of commands but can only do about 5 mins at a time. A couple weeks ago I looked up sniff training online and decided to try. With a smelly treat (lamb lung), I first let her sniff the snack, then used a hand towel and hid it under the edge of the towel while encouraging her to “find it”. She started sniffing! Yey! I had to help her locate it the first couple times and at the end she could find it herself.
In the beginning you’re just supposed to encourage any sniffing and help them to the treat after a couple seconds while slowly increasing the time and difficulty. I’m not sure how much more tired she is, but it can’t hurt! Over the past week she’s been able to “search” for longer periods of time before wandering away and giving up. Sometimes she just loses concentration and I have to tell her to “find it” again. Overall though she loves the game and will “work” (sit, lie down) to even play.
When they become an expert, you can start hiding treats in a variety of easy-to reach places and then switch to hiding toys too. I like smelly treats to start with, or large toys. Right now I also let her watch me hide it so she knows in which area to search for. Sometimes instead of fetch, we play the “go find it” with the toy game. It keeps her energy levels lower and her brain working.
at first just hide it on the edge of the towel
over time, bring it closer to the middle and see if they can lift the towel
learning how to get “into” the towel to find the treat
