The Dog Walks Me

Tag: winter

  • Guide to Beaches and Paddling Lakes on the Sea to Sky Highway

    Guide to Beaches and Paddling Lakes on the Sea to Sky Highway

    The Sea to Sky Highway linking Vancouver to Whistler and Pemberton is one of the most beautiful drives in the world. Weekend warriors load up every Friday evening and fill up the parking lots to every easily accessible lake, trail, and park along the road. Here’s a guide to the Lakes and beaches of the Howe Sound along the highway, and places I like to take a kayak, paddleboard, or canoe with my two Vizsla dogs Whiskey and Bourbon.

    Many of these places do fill up quickly on weekends and parking is not allowed on the highway so I would suggest weekdays or very early weekends to get a parking spot! The guide moves from Vancouver to Pemberton and is location based. Check the tides for anything in Howe Sound and wear a life jacket! In case you’re a dog owner, here’s a blog on how to get started paddling with your dog.

    🚗 Car Access
    🚶‍♂️ Walk to Access
    💪Hike to Access
    🚽 Toilets
    🗑️ Garbage Bins
    🛑Difficult Parking
    🚫No Dogs

    Vancouver-Squamish

    Whytecliff Park 🚶‍♂️🚽 🗑️ – The access is down a set of stairs and a rocky beach. Check the tides before you go! There are seals, periodic whales, and an islet (island sometimes connected) to paddle around. Sunset is gorgeous. This is also a common diving spot so watch for divers! Bathrooms and a small food concession is on site as well as a small trail, green grassy space.

    Kelvin Grove Beach 🚶‍♂️🗑️- Lions Bay Beach Park may be preferable for those without dogs, but Kelvin Grove Beach is Dog Friendly. There is paid parking, and the access is down a short trail to a small set of rocks with logs. Depending on the tide you will have more or less beach to launch from with your dogs. No bathrooms.

    Porteau Cove 🚗🚽 🗑️ -A much larger beach and area to launch from. There is a campground connected to the beach as well as a large dock. Bathrooms are available and there’s lots of places to launch especially when the tide is low. Very quick and easy access from the car to beach.

    Furry Creek Beach 🚶‍♂️🚽🗑️- There is less parking and a bit more walking involved than Poteau Cove to the beach access at Furry Creek Beach, however because of this the area is a bit more quiet. There is very little beach on high tide so be aware!

    Squamish-Whistler

    Mamquam Beach 🚶‍♂️-in Squamish is currently under a series of construction so it’s hard to tell how access is lately. Right now there’s a decent walk to the beach from easy parking downtown Squamish but the beach has the best view of the Chief especially during sunset.

    Spit Road 🚶‍♂️- in Squamish has lots of options to park and launch a boat, however be warned that the river can move quickly and you’ll likely be hiking your way back up the road when you’re done. Have knowledge of river paddling, the waterflow, and tides before putting into the Squamish River (especially if you’re going to drop in further upstream).

    Alice Lake 💪🚽 🗑️ – Alice Lake Provincial park has 4 lakes. The easiest accessible lake for paddling is Alice Lake itself but it’s not dog friendly (even the trails around the lake prohibit dogs). Stump Lake is the easiest accessible lake for paddling with dogs and is quite quiet for boats and swimming even on a busy day.

    Cat Lake 🚶‍♂️🚽🗑️ – Cat Lake a small lake with loads of docks. It’s great to practice paddling as it’s so small with so many access points and lots of parking. Even so, on weekends the campground fills out and it can get extremely busy. An AWD is advised as the road can get rough and in winter it can be impassible. Boat access is a short walk down a wide trail to the main dock. There are pit toilets at parking and lots of garbage bins.

    Brohm Lake 💪🚽- Brohm lake has very limited parking, especially in the summer weekends. There can be a lineup of cars waiting to get in further up the highway. It’s a long narrow lake and water access isn’t the easiest. If you take the trail going south from the parking lot, you get to the lake quicker but you’re launching from rocks. There’s also water access if you walk up north but you’ll be hiking up and down big rocks. The area is beautiful and there are pit toilets up the North trail from the parking lot but no garbage bins currently (please take your garbage out!).

    Levette Lake 🚶‍♂️🚽🗑️- A beautiful lake up a FSR (Forest Service Road). You will need AWD on your car in order to get up the road and there’s limited parking. The water access is a short walk from the parking, which has garbage bins and pit toilets. There is very little “beach” to launch from and the area can get very busy on weekends. This may not be accessible in the winter and there are cougars and bears in the area.

    Hut Lake 💪🛑- 4.5km hike down a wider easy trail from Levette Lake. You can drive further up the road shortening this hike if you have a 4wd and if you have a monster truck you can drive the entire way to the lake HOWEVER I have seen several trucks attempt this and be stuck and it is not an easy location for someone to come pull you out! A much quieter lake because of the hiking access but with no toilets, bins, and extra cougars and bears.

    Starvation Lake 💪- Either 2.6km from the highway or 3.5km from Paradise Valley Road (AWD advisable). An easy walk down a trail to the lake provides a lovely paddle on a nice summer day. There is limited parking on the Highway and you’ll have to walk along the highway for a small stretch before the trail starts down. Paradise Valley can get busy with campers and cars as well.

    Lucille Lake 💪- Halfway to Whistler sits Lucille Lake. Again, busy on weekend especially with locals, there is a limited parking on the FSR over Chance Creek Bridge. There are two launch points that involve a short walk in. The further beach has a nice sandy beach, great to lounge or launch from. There’s also a huge questionable bike ramp on one side of the lake. With no toilets or bins, keep your dogs really close and don’t wander too far into the woods.

    Daisy Lake 💪🛑- A large lake on the way to Whistler but this one is NOT easily accessible. It’s also closed to organized recreational activity and BC Hydro has it damned so the water level changes radically.

    Callaghan Lake 🚗🚽- Callaghan Lake needs AWD access up a longer road filled with waterbars off the Sea to Sky Hwy. Launch access couldn’t be easier as you can drive right up to the lake to drop off a boat. The lake is large and surrounded by mountains. There are campsites, pit toilet but no bins.

    Madeley Lake 💪- Access by an easy walk off the FSR that leads to this lake. AWD accessible the last I checked (perhaps 4WD now) and less visited and paddled lake. Small beach access with wild camping, no toilets or bins.

    Whistler-Pemberton

    Alpha Lake 🚶‍♂️🚽🗑️- A smaller lake with a dog friendly area, Alpha lake has lots to see and like most of the other lakes can get busy on summer weekends. Being a smaller lake in an exclusive neighborhood, parking can be more difficult but there are so many lakes to choose from in this location.

    Nita Lake 🚶‍♂️🗑️ 🛑- A smaller lake that doesn’t have the easiest parking access. I Haven’t paddled this lake but there is a trail around most of the lake with access to drop a boat in.

    Alta Lake- 🚗🚽🗑️ With a dog-friendly beach, this is another beach I occasionally visit. The rainbow Park area has bathrooms, parking, and bins as well as a swimming area and dock. There are beautiful views of Whistler from the lake as well as lots of docks and big houses to check out.

    Green Lake- 🚗🚽🗑️ My favorite lake to paddle in Whistler. Green lake has easy access from many different trail and neighborhood parking along the lake. There’s also high end restaurants, chalets, and a gold course right by. Watch the seaplanes take off right in front of you (and please get out of the way!) and paddle around the gigantic mineral rich green lake.

    Whistler River– Golden Dreams Route- Paddle from Alta lake to Green Lake on this slow moving 5km route. You’ll see geese, maybe some bear, and lots of beautiful scenery. Aim for early summer as late summer the water can be low and you might need to portage a section. Check the water level before heading out as there’s a tricky section that might have you in the water. There are also tours you can take!

    Lost Lake– 🚶‍♂️🚽 🗑️ A lovely little lake with an easy beach to spend a summer day. Dogs are not permitted on the beach however but they’re welcome at “Canine Cove” 400m to the north.

    Pemberton and further

    One Mile Lake 🚗🚽 🗑️ – A lovely small lake with easy parking and beach access. The dock is easy to launch from and although the beach doesn’t allow dogs, no one has complained as we launched a boat with dogs from the dock. This is a lovely place to paddle for sunset and has lots of trails to hike when you’re done paddling.

    Lillooet Lake 🚶‍♂️🚽🗑️- The largest lake on this page by far! There are many access points along the In-shuck-ch FSR the easiest being Strawberry Point site with pit toilets, bins, and campgrounds. Access is down a dirt path to a rocky beach that stretches for a very very very long time. Because the lake is larger, pay attention to winds, however you can paddle here all day and still have loads to discover.

    Lower Joffre Lake 🚶‍♂️🚽🗑️🛑🚫- One of the most beautiful turquoise lakes, this park is now NOT dog friendly and also needs a day-pass. There is no reception at the lake so the pass must be garnered before heading up to the lakes and it is almost always packed. The lower lake is a short walk in and there is a small area to launch from. Pitt toilets and bins are available but sometimes both can be full.

    Duffey Lake- 🚗🛑 There is very little access to Duffey Lake but the area isn’t usually too busy. There are some places to pull over on the Duffey Lake Rd, or a viewpoint area on the East side with parking for several cars. The lake is huge and turquoise and surrounded by mountains. No bins or toilets, nor beach though!

    Seton Lake- 🚗🚽🗑️ Another absolutely gorgeous lake with limited parking access in the summer. If you’re feeling adventurous with a good car, you can drive around the lake and find quieter places to launch from or just to take photos.

    Birkenhead Lake 🚗🚽🗑️- Another provincial park with camping sites, toilets, and bins. The road is a bit rough but most cars can make it just fine, and I’m pretty sure there’s no reception. The area is beautiful with mountain backdrops and a beautiful lake. Perfect for swimming, there is a beach to launch from and it’s very easy to find a quiet spot to yourself on the lake

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  • Ultimate Gear for Running with your Dog

    Ultimate Gear for Running with your Dog

    Waist leash

    There are lots of hands-free waist leashes around, but I find the simpler the better. I prefer the ones with a fast easy clip, lightweight, easy to wash, and quick to turn into a hand-leash. For dogs that chew, or larger dogs that lunge, make sure you get a thicker option with clips that withstand strength. There are many circumstances in which I only pull the waist leash out for a short road section on a trail run and want to be able to quickly clip it on and off.

    I also do not like leashes that are too long, because the longer the leash, the less control you have of the dog and the harder the yank if they try and race off. For longer runs, consider a Bungee leash with a bit of give, and for short sections where you need control, consider a shorter leash without stretch. The Ruffwear options have added in a secret poop bag pocket that has saved my butt a couple times!

    The lightest option, easy to throw into a pocket, or two
    thicker webbing, harder to chew
    more economical option than ruffwear
    Great bungee leash for longer leashed runs

    Collar leash

    These are wonderful! I love this on Whiskey because she heels offleash really well but I need a leash for very short sections (around the car, crossing roads, reactive dog, bear). This only works with a dog that has recall because the leash is short and around the dog’s neck. It’s also not good if you want to run with your dog on leash a long distance as it’s too short. This leash is ideal for short moments when you need a close ranging reliable dog in full control in seconds. You reach down and grab the handle and suddenly you have a dog on leash. Not only do you not have to carry a leash, but the size is a perfect traffic length and easy to reattach back.

    Leash comes out when you pull at the velcro

    Harness

    I normally do not use harnesses for running. I run with my dogs mostly off-leash and I’ve taught them not to pull so they don’t strain their necks when I ask for a heel. However, there are times we run longer distances on leash and even a moderate strain on the neck is not ideal.

    For dogs that need to be on-leash or dogs that pull, or a dog that might need a lift, a harness is a great tool. The Ruffwear and Hurtta harnesses have worked well for us and our friends. I would look for a large ring to clip your dog on and off (with large rings you can do it even while running), for a harness that doesn’t chaffe, one your dog cannot slip out of, and something bright.

    Harness Pack

    Even better than a harness, if your dog is large enough, is a harness with small pockets to carry items like poop bags, keys, cards, treats, and….dog poop! Who better to carry the poop around than your dog? Ruffwear makes this harness that has small streamlined pockets that are perfect for runs and carrying small things.

    With a larger dog capable of carrying a small load, this is perfect for runs

    Drybag Poop

    One of the worst aspects of running with dogs is carrying and smelling dog poop on your entire run. Guess what? I’ve found the answer! The Puppouch is a drybag that keeps everything airtight (and watertight). For a better experience, throw it in your dog’s pack and you don’t even have to think about it. The only issue is forgetting about the bags until your next run! That’s right, the poop is so airtight you won’t ever smell it until you take it out again so just don’t forget about it!

    A local company, and totally airtight

    Lights

    Running in the winter or at night (our winters have the sun setting at 3pm sometimes) needs headlamps and dog lights. Even if your dog just runs at your side, dog lights are a courtesy to everyone else that might be on a trail. It can be super scary to hear or see movement on a trail and not know it’s a dog. It’s also great to have different colors for different dogs so you can see whom is whom (and you’re not yelling at the wrong dog). I absolutely recommend dog lights for anyone taking off leash dogs outside in low light. The collars are better than single LED lights because you can see the light from all angles otherwise the dog light can disappear as your dog rotates.

    Human dog hat

    Running with Dogs Hat


    The perfect running hat, lightweight, crushable, quick dry, airy, and washable. The best part? It comes with an option with you chasing a your dog, or your dog chasing you. Which is more accurate? You decide! In addition you’re support this blog and all my work here if you get anything from my shop 🙂 Please take a look!

    Waterbowl

    This has been the lightest, yet waterproof waterbowl I’ve found. It’s small but it does the job and it’s tiny fitting into any crevice or pocket.

    Small light waterbowl

    Musher’s Wax/ Boots

    Assuming you’re not taking your dog running when the pavement is much too hot, you might still need some protective coating on dog paws that may run raw, or over short hot spots. Wax can help a dogs’ paws providing relief and a protective coating. For longer periods, injury, or hot pavement, dog boots may be needed. I’ve got an extended post on winter dog boots, but as we do not run on hot pavement in the summer, I don’t have experience on the summer dog boot options (although some of the winter dog boots are also good for summer).

    Cooling Dog Vest

    To help dogs that overheat in warm weather, cooling vests and bandanas can be helpful. I sometimes carry cooling bandanas in my running pack for my girls on warmer days, or I might drench their ears and paws during water breaks. Cooling vests should be a light color and keep the dog cool for longer than a bandana, however, keep watch for when the vests dry out and if your dog is still too warm. Cooling paws, ears, and throat can help during the run, but please do not go out if your dog is struggling. A cooling harness combines harness and vest. Just keep extra water when there isn’t water sources and avoid the heat if at all possible.

    Ruffwear Cooling Vest
    Kurgo Cooling Vest
    Ruffwear Cooling Harness

    Hi Visibility Jacket

    In areas and trails where you may be passing by others, close to roads, or in lands where others may be hunting, it is helpful to make sure your dog is easily visible. On rainy days, or in locations where my dogs blend in, I make sure I choose jackets that stand out so that people can see them from a distance and understand quickly they are dogs, not coyotes or bears. Choose a jacket or harness that stands out against your dog’s color with reflective fabrics.

    Visibility vest

    Running System

    Because a dog pulling for a length of time on your waist will not be efficient or painless, a way to distribute the pull would be from a proper belt. To take it another step forwards you would be then going onto a full pulling system and become a canicross team. The belts help distribute the pull into your whole body and a proper harness system will reduce the yank. This is quite different than waist belts where you want your dog to run beside you, these belts have your dog running in front.

  • Alaska’s Mint-Bomber Traverse with Dogs (and a Snowstorm)

    Alaska’s Mint-Bomber Traverse with Dogs (and a Snowstorm)

    Goldmint Trailhead to Mint Hut

    Deep in the Talkeetna Mountains in Alaska, a local favorite trail Hatcher Pass became world famous. Within the area, there are loads of options for hiking and exploration, but we only had a couple days, and very few days without an abundance of rain. My friend Kristina and our dogs Whiskey, Bourbon, and Cooper set out on a backcountry adventure exploring several huts and passes in the backcountry. As with most backcountry adventures in Alaska, our hike did not go according to plan.

    Bourbon’s first year with a pack

    First off was the 8 mile (13km) hike on the Gold Mint Trail to Mint Hut, where we planned to stay the first evening. The weather was beautiful and sunny (the only day it was!) and the hike in was the easiest part of the entire trip. We still did manage to get lost close to the hut, but we spent that time eating berries off the ground and taking photos so nothing very problematic. Because there had been so much rain, much of the trail was extremely muddy (re: a pond) so poles and waterproof boots were really helpful.

    Above Mint Hut, got a little lost

    When we finally found the hut, we spent the evening taking photos and enjoying the views. The clouds were coming in thicker so we were glad to have a hut to sleep in. Unfortunately the hut was also pretty damp and moldy smelling and all the pots and cups were pretty covered in black muck, so if you’re using anything stored inside, clean it well first. Also frustrating was the amount of dog poop left all around the hut. I’ve never experienced such poor management of dog feces on any trail or hut before (and that’s saying alot!) so PLEASE PLEASE pick up after your dog should you come here.

    Mint Hut exterior and views from Hatchers Pass
    Pick up after your dog here!

    Mint and Bomber huts are maintained by the MCA (Mountaineering Club of Alaska) so make sure you pay your yearly $20 fee online before you go. Because the weather had not been great, and we were at the end of the season (end of August), we were excited to try out the huts. Any of the huts along the route can be very busy so we brought an extra tent just in case, but luckily, there was only one other couple that ended up there that evening. With dogs, you must climb up a vertical ladder, or let them sleep on the ground. Our dogs are all smaller and hairless (and sleep inside our sleeping bags) so we had them up with us.

    Mint Hut interior and views from Hatchers Pass
    Mint Hut

    Mint Hut to Bomber Hut Via The Backdoor Gap (6.5km)

    This was so much fun! After Mint Hut, there are no more trails and you must be able to make your own way. You start heading up the steep scree boulder field heading towards the Backdoor Gap. The boulder field can be quite tough on dogs that are not used to climbing scree and rock. The rocks can rub paws raw, and the steep terrain can be dangerous if not navigated properly. Again, we didn’t take the most direct route, but we eventually did find the gap with extra scrambling and climbing and had quite a bit of fun doing so.

    Scree up to Backdoor gab
    Boulder field to Backdoor Gap

    The Gap itself is at the top of a glacier. You are climbing a small gap that can be snow-filled depending on the time of the year, or, in our case was currently snowing. Because it was so cold, windy, and snowing, we didn’t take too many photos and concentrated on descending. There were several questionable ropes hanging down that we used, but this section would be very steep for dogs.

    Backdoor Gap from Mint hut to Bomber Hut
    Kristina heading down the Backdoor Gap

    Next, you need to hike from the top of Penny Royal Glacier, all the way down. There were no crevasses we saw, and the glacier was pretty easy although quite slippery and was a nice break from scree climbing all morning. Eventually you drop down to the tundra and keep hiking until you find Bomber Hut. At this point it was starting to rain and we were quite tired from carrying our huge packs over the day.

    Backdoor Gab with Whiskey
    Kristina look over the Tundra heading to Bomber Hut
    Kristina look over the Tundra heading to Bomber Hut
    Bomber Hut and tundra in hatchers pass area
    Bomber hut in the background

    Bomber Hut was much nicer than Mint (although maybe not so pretty from the outside). It’s newer and with better airflow so it didn’t smell like mold. Again we were the first ones in so we made ourselves at home and started exploring outside between spells of rain.

    Bomber Pass from Bomber Hut, Alaska
    Bomber Pass

    The view from Bomber Hut were breathtaking. As the rains came and went, we were audience to moody lighting over an arena of mountain passes. Over the afternoon, more people came to join us and we had a lovely crew to chat with for the evening.

    Clouds coming in and out with Whiskey
    Bomber Hut
    Bomber Hut with snow

    Our next day, we had been hoping to hike to Snowbird Hut, however it was pouring rain and snow so we decided it would be nicer to take a day in rather than soaking everything we owned in cold rain for 5 hours without seeing any views.

    Kristina in Bomber Hut Interior
    Spending a day inside Bomber Hut

    We spent the laziest day in reading comics that had been left behind and chatting to the huge group of people that wandered through. Somehow Bomber Hut became the meeting place and over the day we had over 10 people max out the sleeping space. There were even several outside in tents in the drenching rain.

    Full House at Bomber Hut

    Bomber Hut To Reed Lakes Trailhead Via Bomber Pass (10.5km)

    Bomber Pass, Alaska
    Looking at Bomber Pass, hiking between these mountains up Bomber Glacier

    Since we changed our plans not to go to Snowbird, we ended up hiking out of Bomber Hut through Bomber Pass on our last day. We woke up to snow. So much snow! The snow turned to rain, but we could see at higher elevations it would be very very white. After a quick breakfast we started to head out and were the first group up the boulder field and onto the Bomber glacier to Bomber Pass.

    Bomber
    1950s TB-29 Bomber Wreckage and Memorial
    A plane wheel in a crevasse

    Bomber Pass is named as such because there is a TB-29 Superfortress Bomber Plane that crashed during a training mission in 1957 killing 6. Because it was snowing so hard, the other group that was heading up had decided to bypass the wreckage (it’s on the other side of the glacier). By the time we had located and explored the wreckage the other group had caught up to us and we were able to head up the pass to drop down onto Upper Reed Lake.

    A very snowy and rainy day

    The pass was quite dangerous with a new foot of snow that had fallen over the past day (making it 2 feet of fresh snow). Underneath the snow was pure ice and I hadn’t brought my ice axe so at one point I slipped and slid and slid, thankfully catching my foot on some rocks before I slid down a kilometer down the glacier. The top of the pass was totally covered in snow (snow covered rocks) so it became very very tricky to make our way up. Normally there should be a clearer path with rope but everything was so covered in snow.

    Bomber Pass in fresh snow
    Bomber Pass was treacherous with many injuries this day

    Upper and Lower Reed Lake

    Unfortunately since it was snowing so hard, we made our way through Upper Reed Lake and down through the boulder field only thinking about survival. Steep fresh snow covered boulders are a minefield and not fun on a sunny day. We were soaked to the bone with huge packs on and dogs to control. The snowy rocks are even more dangerous for dogs, especially inexperienced ones and a dog following us later that day tore a nail or toe and had to be carried the rest of the way. Someone else also injured their leg on the descent so be very methodical and careful.

    Once to Upper Reed Lake, the trails started again. I could see that normally these trails would be absolutely beautiful, but snow turned to pounding rain and we were quite tired from the pass so we just put our heads down and hiked out as fast as we could. Everything was so soaked my phone stopped working and our dogs were quite miserable. The trails had turned into muddy river that I fell in (and just laid my head down for a minute). Another area was so flooded with water that it was higher than my knee level when I sloshed through. I think my dog was swimming.

    From the parking lot we were able to hitch a ride to Mint Trailhead and were able to change our clothes and dry out finally!

    I would love to visit again!

    If you wonder why my bag was so heavy, check out here to see what I carry with me for camping. If you’d like to try out tent camping with dogs, here’s how, and if you’re looking for winter dog gear, first aid kits for dogs, or just other adventures, check out the links!

  • How to Ski with your Dog (and where)

    How to Ski with your Dog (and where)

    How to start, things to think about, and where to go!

    I love getting outdoors with my Vizslas and when it snows, we still head out. Cross country and backcountry skiing is a really fun way to keep dogs active with you during the winter months. However, there is much more to think about in the winter with dogs, so here’s what we’ve learned.

    Winter Hazards for Dogs

    While the bugs and bears are sleeping and wildlife is less of a concern in the alpine, there is the looming issue of snow, cold temperatures and avalanches. There is also less sunlight so getting lost becomes much more dangerous when the temperatures dip and there are less people on the trails.

    Snow and Cold

    You’ll need more gear in the cold (unless you have a winter mountain dog) and snow to protect both your dog and yourself. I find myself bringing lots of layers for everyone, and also sometimes a dog sleeping bag for longer days. Here’s more on clothing and footwear for dogs in the winter. Expect to carry a larger heavier pack than the summer, and keep your dog moving to the car if you start seeing signs of shivering. It’s always a good idea to check on your dog’s paws and body throughout hikes but it’s especially important in the winter.

    With deep snowpack, running through especially thick deep snow can be exhausting for dogs and hard on their joints and hips. My dogs know to run on the skin tracks or follow behind in deep snow but some dogs may run beyond what they can sustain because they’re having so much fun. Thick crusty snow that gets punched through can also cut dogs paws and legs. Legs can get very bloody if you end up in these conditions, so ask your dog to stay behind your tracks or turn back if you see their legs raw or bloody.

    Tree wells

    Even in mild terrain, if there’s enough snow, there are tree wells. A space of loose snow can form around tree trunks and hidden cavities can easily trap and suffocate dogs (as well as people) that fall in. I’ve heard of several dogs lost overnight when they’ve fallen into tree wells and could not get out. This isn’t just for backcountry skiing, but right off the side of cross country trails. Be aware and keep your dogs in sight at all times.

    Avalanches

    If you’re going into avalanche terrain, make sure you have the training! There are classes available throughout the season and it’s very dangerous to go into terrain without knowledge, gear, and a skilled group of friends. Do not put an avalanche beacon on a dog. In an event a group may be swept away, humans must be first priority and precious time spent digging out a dog instead may mean the life or death of a human. You can put a different beacon on your dog that you can track instead.

    When you travel through avalanche terrain, keep your dogs in control, and in line with the pack. A dog running above may trigger an avalanche above a group of humans or may also be caught in an avalanche even if the humans have been able to avoid one. There was recently a dog rescued after 20 minutes buried in an avalanche in Colorado. Please take precautions!

    Basic Commands for Skiing with a Dog

    There’s a couple things I have taught my Vizslas to do when I ski with them. The first is to get out of my path when I’m going to ski right into them. GO GO GO is the command that I’m right behind and they need to move out of the way. The safest way is to practice this is during running or with cross country skis (something without sharp edges). I just speed up randomly and yell GO GO GO and run them by without hurting them. They learn really quickly to move out when they hear that!

    Another important command is to “STAY BACK” and hang out behind your tracks. That can be taught on leash at first, while walking or running. I use STAY BACK often while hiking on leash and need dogs not to pull in technical terrain.

    “PASS BY” is something I picked up when I was mushing in the Yukon. When two dog teams pass by each other, they need to ignore each other and keep running. “Pass by” means no greeting, no sniffing, you are passing by dogs and you are working. Again, this is best trained while running.

    “STAY CLOSE” and of course full RECALL (“full” meaning the dog comes all the way back and stands by you to be leashed without you stepping forwards) is extremely important when off leash skiing. These should already be in your repertoire but make sure you have these tools before heading out! Lastly, you should be able to leash your dog while on skis at any point (wildlife, dog fight, injury, emergencies, etc) so keep a leash within easy reach.

    Dog etiquette

    It goes without saying (but I’ll say it anyway) pick up after your dog, especially on groomed ski tracks where someone may ski over. The poop also messes up the grooming machines and if this happens too often, dog-friendly becomes no dogs allowed quite quickly!

    Keep your dogs away from leashed dogs or dogs in muzzles, and keep your dogs in the car until you’re all set to go. Off leash dogs in parking lots are super dangerous for both parties. Normally the first 5 minutes dogs are out are when they tend to poop and dog-poop filled parking lots are not fun for anyone.

    Whistler Olympic Center

    If you’re moving quickly, keep your dogs to the side so they don’t run into anyone else skiing in the opposite direction. Keep your dogs from just standing in the middle of a run, especially on a blind turn, and let dogs play off to the side.

    Skijoring, kick sleds

    I’ve never tried! I’ve trained my dogs not to pull but I know lots of people that skijor and love this sport. There’s competitions with teams, as well as bikejoring and canicross (running with dogs pulling you). Make sure you have the correct gear (not just a regular harness and leash) and see if there are classes and competitions in your area (some listed below). For even more fun, try kick sleds on tracks! The faster you go, the bigger wipeouts you’ll have, so first start running and teaching commands before you really go for it.

    Dog Friendly Cross Country Skiing Trails in Canada

    It’s uncommon for dogs to be allowed off leash in cross country ski areas but there are some that do! Some are of these are on-leash, some allow skijoring, and some off leash. Please do your research before going! BC and Alberta have more off leash trails and Ontario and Quebec have more skijoring trails.

    Dog Friendly Cross Country Skiing Trails in USA

    Backcountry Skiing

    There’s lots of places to go backcountry skiing with your dog. The terrain opens everything up, and basically you can go anywhere that’s not dog-prohibited. Just make sure that you have all the essentials for yourself as well as a dog.

    It gets really expensive and dangerous for winter rescues so make sure you’re self sufficient. At minimum carry a satellite communication device, first aid, and have the training to be out. I really like the Whyld River down dog bags as an emergency bivy/dog bag. The XL sizes can fit both you and your dog inside should you get caught out and it packs in extra small.

    as a reward for reading all this, here’s a pug in a backpack going backcountry skiing
  • Guide to a well-dressed Dog: Vizsla Jackets and Sweaters

    Guide to a well-dressed Dog: Vizsla Jackets and Sweaters

    Are you confused with the amount of options of canine jackets and sweaters available on the market? Or maybe you’ve tried several and find nothing fits your skinny long dog properly? There is such a variety of dog breeds from short and stout to long and lean and unless your dog magically fits the “standard” size it can be hard to find something that fits and stays on an athletic crazy running machine. We’ve tried so many different options and this is what I’ve learned.

    Velcro vs Buckles vs Zippers

    This is a big point of difference in choosing a jacket. Ideally you find a jacket with the least amount of connection/adjustment points. This can be counterintuitive as the more adjustment points, the easier it is to get a good fit right? Perhaps, they’re more adjustable, however these jackets will rub more, and will also come off easier with an active playing dog. Jackets with 3-5 Velcro panels are the bane of my existence. They look awful and these panels will come off easily over time.

    Velcro is great for easy of use and quickness, for fitting different dogs without adjustment, and for not rubbing or chaffing on the pup. The downside to Velcro is that it can come off with thick brush, with deep snow collecting, and with rough play. Velcro also degrades with use, especially the cheaper Velcro (there’s a huge difference in quality) so make sure that Velcro jackets are high quality if you want them to last.

    Buckles solve alot of Velcro issues such as inadvertently coming off after rubbing past bush, or a dog pulling the panel with play. Buckles snap easily and can adjust with straps. Sometimes buckles are used in conjunction with Velcro for the best of both worlds. The problem with Buckles is that they don’t have a clean profile, they can rub or get in the way with harnesses, and they’re a small point of connection so jackets have to be structured well in order for them not to unravel or lose shape.

    Zippers are a very clean look and connect a large panel of fabric together. They’re wonderful not coming apart or wearing out, however they are not adjustable so the fit has to be somewhat perfect for only a zipper to be used in a jacket

    Finally, there are jackets and sweaters that do not have any attachment points and depend on the jacket fitting perfectly to the dog to not fall off. I love these the best, but they are the hardest to find and fit as your dog grows and changes!

    Fit for skinny dogs- length vs chest

    Fitting jackets on different shaped dogs are difficult. I find most of the mass produced clothing fit a stout, somewhat rounder and and shorter dog than mine. I’ve had to find specialty dog clothing to fit my Vizslas, or just accept that the length will be shorter and the stomach panel barely covering. These jackets usually twist on the dogs as they run, or leave their backs and stomach open to the elements.

    Here’s a list of dog companies that make long/skinny/lean dog jackets, many of these are custom

    Voyagers K9 Apparel

    Our most used rain jackets and winter jackets come from this brand. They are breed-specific fits and are easy-on easy off with Velcro. There are two Velcro straps which really help keep the jacket on crazy dogs and it’s great quality (I have much experience with sewing and Velcro). The fleece is also very high quality and extra thick. No matter the amount of washing these jackets have gone through, they haven’t seemed to degrade.

    Voyagers is run by an American family with the mother sewing all the jackets and they can be custom to your own dog for an extra fee. There can be added harness holes and custom shapes for an oddly shaped dog. Although puppy teeth and barbed wire will tear the fabric, it holds up much better than other cheaper jackets. *wash these jackets with tech wash

    K9 Voyagers winter jacket

    Chillydogs.ca

    These jackets (the standard option) fit Vizslas perfectly. They also have long and lean (greyhounds) and another cut for short and broad dogs (Bullies). The jackets use both buckles and Velcro, and are quick to put on, never coming off because of the buckle. The winter option covers the front of the chest and has a fleece-lined shell for added wearability. The neck is a bit shorter and less thick fleece than Voyagers but there is the chest panel and buckle. I find the Alpine Blazer to be a great all-round jacket for those days that aren’t too cold, or too wet but just chilly enough to need a jacket.

    Chillydogs Great White North Winter Dog Coat
    Chillydogs Alpine Blazer

    Hurtta

    Hurtta is a company from Finland that have recently expanded to North America. They have some really interesting products that I haven’t seen elsewhere. I especially love the Eco line that uses 100% recycled polyester fabric. Not all Hurtta jackets fit skinny/lean/hairless dogs well but the ones that do are keepers!

    Hurtta’s Expedition Parka was made especially for lean dogs without undercoats like Vizslas. The fabric hugs the dogs (vs a shell that leaves so much air between jacket and muscles) and includes adjustment points as well as a snow trap on the neck that really keeps heat in. There’s a fully chest panel, and the jacket is coated with water wicking properties (not fully waterproof but fine with snow). The jackets use only one buckle but stay in place really nicely.

    Another jacket I love and use is the Extreme Overall. This one is the warmest one-piece clothing I have for the dogs. It’s good for about -15 (once it gets to -20 for 5 hours we switch to layers). The overalls take a bit of time to put the dogs in, but there’s many adjustment points and they fit the dogs well.

    Vizsla Tea

    This is the only brand I haven’t tried but I would recommend if you’re in Europe. I’ve heard good things and they’re made specifically for the Vizsla breed.

    K9topcoat

    I’ve more recently been using K9Top Coat in the winters. Because of our wet and cold climate, we’ve been using the Weatherproof Bodysuit that has the most water-repellency. I haven’t tried the other suits they make, but there are lots of options for dogs that have allergies, injuries, etc. The weatherproof suits have fitted my Vizslas very well (cut the legs off higher or they will snowball). They’re perfect for layering underneath jackets and for camping.

    Bravehound/Redbarkshop

    If style is what you’re looking for, look no further than Bravehound. These are custom made with Vizslas in mind. I sell them in my shop with the measurements taken from 100s of Vizslas in 5 sizes. The sweaters are hand-knit and stretch perfectly as the dog breathes and runs.

    I’ve never been able to find a sweater that actually fit the length of a Vizsla and stretched nicely over their chests so I started bringing these in for sale. There’s a hole for a collar, and my oldest sweater is still lasting nicely, although these aren’t for rough play or running through the bush (They’ve survived all that, but I try not to!). Also machine washable (all the jackets on this list are!), and finally 100% wool.

    There’s also a more fitted vest for sports in the winter and keep the dogs warm. The Bravehound wool gilet is zippered and allows for easy sprinting while keeping the dogs warm (perfect for Cross Country Skiing).

    Bravehound Technical Gilet Vest

    Threadzntails

    You cannot find better fitting onesies (and other shapes) as these are made custom to your dog’s size. They even have matching human hoodies if that’s your thing! Everything is custom to exactly what you want, including collar style, legs, stomach paneling (girls and boys), and fabric type and color or design. For the customization I think the pricing is extremely fair. Since there are no zippers or Velcro, these are very easy to wear, but take a bit of time to slip on. I have friends that are addicted to getting these as they’re so fun to design yourself.

    Puppies

    I think I found this jacket for $8 in the clearance bin and it was just fine for puppy Whiskey

    For puppies I always suggest getting something second-hand to last for the first half-year. The jackets I recommend are not cheap, and unless you want to splurge (or have an ongoing amount of puppies in your household) it may not be money well spent. Puppies also have shark-teeth and are pretty unforgiving in their playing and tumbling so it can be best to wait until after they stop shredding everything in sight. Whiskey had a cheap $8 jacket that was torn and handed down to someone else after she outgrew it.

    Price and Longevity

    As with most things, you tend to get what you pay for. I’ve tried the cheaper mass-produced clothing out there and as well as being poorly fitted, they do not last very long. Whiskey isn’t a hard playing dog, but we’ve ripped several jackets and worn out the Velcro in others. Other times the jackets with tiny stomach panels (many just have a strap) cause the jacket to fall to one side and just get trampled or torn. I love jackets that last, fit perfectly, and look great!

    Rain and Waterproofness

    Voyagers k9 has the most waterproof jacket in the market

    I find most jackets that are “waterproof” or “weatherpoof” will not actually keep a dog dry for 3 hours in a downpour, or wet snowfall. Now, I’m assuming most people do not take their dogs in drenching conditions hiking, but it’s a really good way to test waterproofness in dog jackets. The most waterproof Dog Jacket we’ve found is the Voyagers K9 Apparel. They’re the only ones that have stood up to pouring conditions and are still fully waterproof years later.

    Since I take out multiple dogs at a time, I will use all the jackets I have, and Voyagers consistently keeps the dog dry compared to others. However, nothing will keep Bourbon warm and dry when she jumps in and swims after ducks in the winter… I also highly suggest keeping your jackets (no matter the brand) clean and using a proper “tech” wash to clean the jackets and keep them as waterproof as possible

    Snow and ice

    Whiskey “swimming” in powder

    You make think any jacket that is warm should be fine in the snow, however I’ve found some are much better than others. If snow is going to touch the jacket, it can collect inside (especially those with dogs that like to swim in snow) and it can also cling to certain fabrics, and with body warmth, melt, then turn into ice. There are certain pieces that can freeze up and ice over rubbing the dogs as they run.

    Anything with a stomach panel, especially one that covers the front of the stomach will collect snow with a swimming dog. An example is the Hurtta Expedition Parka. As much as I love this jacket, if Bourbon runs through deep snow, the snow will collect and stay in the chest, and then melt and hold iceballs next to her stomach. The Chillydogs winter jacket is similar in this way. This isn’t a problem for running around in packed snow, leashed walks, and dogs that don’t enjoy swimming.

    I’ve also noticed the Hurtta Overalls legs get icy, as well as the k9topcoat weatherproof bottom legs get iced up. The best option I’ve found for cold legs that need coverage is using the backcountry gaiters.

    Citywear and Loungewear

    It can look ridiculous but these dogs do get cold and sweaters or onesies are really amazing! They’re wonderful underlayers, and great if you keep your dogs in a cold car for competitions or roadtrips, for car camping in the winter, cold cabin days, or just an on-leash walk in the city. Perhaps you have a calmer senior dog that chills quickly with arthritis, have a dog recovering from injury, or a dog that refuses to potty when it’s cold outside? A warm sweater or jacket can be wonderful!

    Lifejackets for Dogs

    There are not too many companies that make dog lifejackets, but here’s a couple to check out.

    Ruffwear – Our favorite that we’re currently using, easy adjustments, hidden straps. The biggest selling point is the front strap, where most jackets are thin and can come out of place, Ruffwear has a thicker front band and the strap doesn’t chafe

    Hurtta – I have not tried but I trust this company

    Outward Hound – A lower price point, I just don’t love the strap system, but works great

    Kurgo – I haven’t tried this one, but Kurgo is a well trusted brand

    Dog Life Jackets are really area dependent (where you can buy them) but I would advise for less straps flapping around and more coverage, You want to be able to lift your dog in any position from the handle and not have your dog fall out or chafe. It’s also really helpful to have a leash attachment point. Since your dog’s life may depend on the life jacket working, I wouldn’t get something cheap off Amazon.

    I’m not sure this brand as I borrowed this lifejacket but it kept Bourbon safe!

    Hunting/protective

    I don’t have much information on protective wear for hunting but guess who does… Accidental BirdDog! Her blog posts have loads of information on hunting and this one covers some protective clothing for hunting dogs.

    Layering- protective and cold

    Whiskey has k9topcoat tights underneath and Bourbon has Backcountry Gaiters as well as Expedition Parka

    We are masters at layering! Hiking in the mountains, and backcountry camping involves adjusting and changing to the weather. I normally carry a couple pieces of clothing for the dogs when we are backcountry camping and layer as needed. Sometimes in the winter, we will start on a warm day and the clouds and snow and wind will come in on the peak and I’ll have to redress the girls right on the trail in order for them to survive.

    Do not be shy from layering, even if it looks ridiculous. I typically like a onesie/tights underneath a warm jacket, and some sort of boots if needed. Dog Googles are great if the wind really picks up and starts shooting snow at your face. If you can barely open your eyes in the wind, your dog will appreciate googles (but these do take training to wear).

  • Ultimate List of Dog-Friendly Hikes in Squamish/Sea to Sky

    Ultimate List of Dog-Friendly Hikes in Squamish/Sea to Sky

    warnings:

    Most of Squamish is officially dogs-on-leash however you’ll find most people skirt these rules outside of the downtown areas. Squamish, including downtown has loads of wildlife you must be aware and prepared for. DO NOT let your dogs off leash if you cannot recall them from wildlife. You will find Black Bears, Coyotes, Eagles everywhere throughout Squamish including residential areas. There are also Cougar sightings almost constantly in one trail or another, and less common are wolves, Grizzly bears, bobcat, and elk. Check trail reports before you go to avoid cougar and bear sightings.

    Here’s a list of beaches and lakes to take your dog paddling along the Sea to Sky from Vancouver to Pemberton and beyond!

    Wonderland Trail is super green in the winter

    Parking is very limited in the summer in certain places, especially weekends. Avoid busy areas with dogs as a curtesy of other trail users. Trails may close due to Grizzlies and Black bear issues so check before leaving. Roads can close due to flooding/washouts. Roads and parking are also different in the winter as many FSRs are snowed in and never ploughed. Chains are usually necessary in the winters. Check avalanche forecasts and have knowledge before you head out. Many areas have no reception so download or print maps, and have a point of contact if your car breaks down.

    Alexander Falls Frozen in the Winter

    Easy- 1 hourish

    Ray Peters–
    Very flat, official dog-off leash area, can be close to the highway so be aware, bears, coyotes, lots of options to make your own, also good for biking

    Alexander Falls
    Winter hike, entrance fee to Callaghan, microspikes advised

    Whistler Trainwreck
    Several entry points, watch for trains and broken bottles, metal on the ground

    Wonderland
    Close to highway, so be aware! Great for running on-leash or biking

    Cat Lake
    Extremely busy in summer, AWD, not ploughed in winter

    Starvation Lake/ Cheakamus Canyon
    AWD advised to park in the canyon, must leash up to start by highway

    Crumpit Woods is close to town but beautiful views

    Moderate- under 3 hours, uneven ground

    Crumpit Woods
    Easy to get lost, bears and cougars sometimes present, lots of trail options

    Murrin Lake/Jurassic Ridge
    Must leash around lake, no dogs around lake, busy in the summer, easy to get lost

    Murrin Lake views overlooking the Howe Sound

    4 Lakes Loop
    Very busy in the summer, No dogs at Alice lake (walk on road do not follow the map), lots of offshoot bike trails to add-on, limited parking

    Smoke Bluffs
    Easy to get lost on the trails, Lots of viewpoints

    Brohm Lake
    Very busy in the summer, lots of trail options, awesome views from viewpoint, places to dip in the lake, leash near highway, very limited parking

    Crooked Falls
    Road can flood, AWD, Leash around waterfall, No reception

    Tunnel Bluffs

    Moderate/Hard- under 4 hours, uneven ground, steep sections, trailfinding

    Watersprite
    Very busy in the summer, Bears almost constant in the summer, cougar area, no reception, winter route is different, cars will need chains in the winter

    Debeck’s Hill
    Short but steep and easy to be lost, several options, views aren’t great

    Chief
    Very busy in the summer, may need daypass, leash around steep areas, 3 peaks for options

    Sea to Sky Gondola/Sea to Summit Trail
    Buy dog ticket at the bottom to go down by gondola, steep sections, rope areas, microspikes on icy days needed

    High Falls
    Easy to get lost, Grizzly and black bears, AWD, no reception, leash near falls

    Tunnel Bluffs
    Very busy in summer, log crossings, Black Bears, paid parking, limited parking

    Triconi is a real scramble

    Experienced only

    Brandywine
    Black bears, busy in summer, closed during snowmobile season, awd to lower parking, 4wd to higher parking, No reception, no trail past meadows

    Triconi Peak
    Scrambling and boulder fields, 4wd with clearance, wasps, black and grizzly bears,

    Lake Lovely Water
    Fast water crossing (need boat), wasps, bears, busy in the summer, no reception, no water, no dogs allowed in hut

    Seed peak
    AWD, routefinding, steep sections with rope, no reception

    Brandywine is beautiful, but it’s true wilderness

    Last warnings!

    Be aware of human feces that might be laced with drugs on trails. This is a common problem especially around where people camp, on bike trails, and busy trails. If you notice excessive panting, dilated eyes, excessive drooling, disorientation, turn back immediately and seek help. Another common issue are dogs chasing (or being chased) by bears. In both cases you should be in control of your dogs as there is very little help out of reception. Wasps can sting out of seemingly nowhere (when you pass through a ground nest) and dogs may bolt or be allergic so it’s good to have anti allergy drugs. Lastly, water loving dogs need to be leashed near fast moving water especially Lake Lovely Water, Crooked Falls, High Falls, and Sea to Sky Gondola hike. Dogs have died on these rivers that turn into waterfalls.

    Crooked Falls, slippery and a deadly fall

    Not Dog Friendly

    These places dogs are absolutely not allowed!

    Garibaldi Park (Garibaldi Lake, Wedgemount Lake, Elfin Lakes, Black Tusk), both sides of Whistler due to watershed/park rules (Blackcomb, Whistler peak, Rainbow Lake, Cheakamus Lake, Iceberg Lake, Mount Sproatt) as well as Joffre Lakes and Tenquille Lakes further north.

    Check out more on a list of beaches and lakes to take your dog paddling! And here’s a post on how to each your dog to recall off leash as well as a recall challenge to try before heading out into bear country! Support my page by checking out my shop redbarkshop.com

  • Dog Boots Guaranteed to stay on: Backcountry Paws Gaiters review

    Dog Boots Guaranteed to stay on: Backcountry Paws Gaiters review

    One of the most interesting pieces of winter dog gear that we’ve used are the Backcountry Paws dog gaiters. Does your dog need, but lose boots all winter long? This might be for you!

    Dog gaiters might look like the weirdest dog contraption but they really are quite functional and solve a couple issues I’ve found no other answers to.

    Whiskey with her Backcountry Paws Dog Gaiters

    The problem:

    Dog booties can be necessary if your dog’s paws are too cold (say -15 degrees), or if your dog’s paws develop snowballs, or if your dog’s paws might need protection for other issues. Fast running energetic dogs lose dog booties all the time and these can be expensive! We tend to use dog booties for hikes less than 2 hours, especially if the trail is wide and easy to find missing booties.

    But what do you do if you are sick and tired of losing dog boots? For those longer hikes, or when I don’t want to spend my time finding lost booties, I use these gaiters. Because the gaiters have boots attached, this makes it impossible to lose boots and voila your issue is fixed! Read on for the caveats!

    Our experience:

    The first time I tried Backcountry Paws gaiters, I was a bit intimidated by the straps but it was fairly straightforward and logical to put on. Whiskey is a really patient dog so she helped us both get used to the gaiters and find out together how to use them. My dogs are right between the sizing. Whiskey has a large size gaiter and Bourbon a Medium. I can fit either in either size but the medium is pretty tight on Whiskey and Bourbon swims in the Large.

    The best uses of these gaiters are on packed trails or loose fresh snow no higher than the knee of the dog. They’re great for active crazy dogs that lose boots, and those that collect snowballs on their paws and lower legs. The gaiters are also good for windy days when you want the entire length of the dog’s legs to be covered. I’ve not found a long-legged bootie that my dogs actually accept and enjoy, that stays on for 4+ hours, outside of this solution.

    How to put on:

    Step 1: Separate the front and back
    Adjust and fit the front paws first

    First you need to separate the front and back of the gaiters. I noramlly start with the front legs (undo the buckles to help). Place the boots atop the dog so you know where the front and back of each leg is before you start. You want to avoid putting the boot on front to back (you cannot tell outside of the top straps) so first get your placement otherwise the boot will be twisted.

    Add the back section and then snap together

    Once the front boots are on, you can place the back boots on and then buckle the back strap to the front section. Make sure the velcro on the boots is on very well because once you hit the snow and the velcro starts icing over, it’s much harder to redo well.

    Suggestions:

    For short haired dogs, I really do suggest tights on underneath. If it’s cold enough to need gaiters, you’re most likely needing a jacket for a short-haired dog and tights will help prevent rubbing. For even colder weather I put a jacket on top of the tights and gaiters (see the photo below). This is a pretty good combo for very long cold days!

    Try putting the contraption on at home first. Gaiters are not the easiest to put on a very excitable dog at the trailhead, in a dark car, without help. With that said, my girls are very patient with all kinds of clothing so I’ve actually not had issues myself, but Whiskey and Bourbon are not the type of dogs to bark or run around a car excitedly at a trailhead.

    Make sure the velcro is done up tight

    Lastly, take the time to really look and do up the straps around the ankles well. Make sure they’re firm and tight, that the paw is entirely the way inside, and that the least amount of strap is hanging loose.

    New version:

    Version one of the gaiters

    Backcountry paws have released version 2 of their gaiters. The first flagship product was very well made. Whiskey still uses it without issues but it’s been really nice to see the improvements. There are less hotspots to rub on the dog with the new version (I normally have the dogs in k9topcoat tights underneath so it hasn’t been an issue for us). The second big improvement are the boots. The inside doesn’t have a seam to rub, and are looking much more comfortable. If your dog has issues with hotspots, get version 2!

    Downsides/Caveats

    There’s been a couple downsides I’ve found with dog gaiters. First, they take a longer time and a more patient dog to put on. You need to familiarize yourself with the system and you’ll have to adjust the straps for your dog the first time, so try to do this at home.

    Second, the gaiters can fill up in deep snow. If you’re snowshoeing and the snow is higher than the knee of the dog, the dog can kick up powered snow into the gaiters and then the snow goes inside and collects. Or if your dog goes swimming in powder, the tops of the legs are not sealed (there is no sealing on any dog jacket). There’s no way for the snow to come out so you’ll have to make sure that your dog isn’t walking around with a bag of snow. I have this issue more with the back legs because of the shape, and sometimes I might take off the back legs but leave the front ones for this reason.

    Snowshoeing in powder led to the back legs being filled up

    Third, the gaiter fit needs to be correct and I find that the paw size needs to match the leg size. For example, you buy the gaiters sized to the leg height, the bootie size may not fit perfectly (especially if your dog is shorter but has gigantic paws). So just check fit before you buy!

    Have you tried these? Do you have comments? What was your experience like?

  • The Best Dog Boots for Snow

    The Best Dog Boots for Snow

    Dog Winter Boots Overview (highly detailed)

    One of the questions I get the most is what dog boots I recommend for the winter. The answer is complicated. It depends on the snow you’re on, the temperature, the length of time you are outside, how deep or packed the snow is, and what type of dog you have (dewclaws? energetic? insane? eats boots?). Here’s a highly detailed answer that seeks to lay everything out to help you choose a boot.

    Should Dogs Wear Boots in the Snow?

    I do not put boots on my dogs unless they need it. Dogs do not need boots in all conditions and I do not pre-emptively put boots on unless I know they will need them. Dogs need to feel the ground underneath their paws in order to navigate their surroundings and boots will make them slip as well as impede on things like climbing stairs, and walking up rocks. Imagine trying to open a can with thick gloves on your hands and not being able to see them as you work. In general, I advise not to put on boots unless your dog shows you they need them, but to carry them with you in case they do. However, there are obvious situations you should put on boots.

    1. They are injured or healing from injury
    2. They have a history needing boots in certain situation

    How do you know your dog needs boots? Mine will stop running, will lift up their paws, and will be obviously happier with the boots on zooming again once I put them on. Over time, I know that my dogs need them at -10 or lower, and I will bring them in my pack if I think we might reach those conditions (I tend to hike up mountains, so it gets colder as we ascend). Don’t forget the windchill!

    Bodhi is more sensitive to the cold than my Vizslas

    Dewclaws/ Small paws

    One of the biggest hurdles to booties are dewclaws or if your dog has small paws (in relation to ankles) and the boots slip off easily. Even though my girls do not have these issues, this is the advice I’ve seen works. Dewclaws rub on straps, edges of boots and over time they can bleed and make boots very painful. Some boots have straps in better locations (you need to try them) but even without a strap, the inward pressure on the dewclaw and material rubbing can be painful.

    If you notice this happening, use Vet Wrap (any brand will do, same used for humans) which is a self adhesive wrap under and then over the dewclaw. Do not wrap too tightly so it cuts off circulation or too loosely that it will move. It’s to prevent the dewclaw from moving too much. Then either put the boot over it, or use a sock on top.

    Socks are another layer of protection for dewclaws, or dogs with paws that are too slim so boots slip off. Either with or without the vet wrap, slide the boot on, and secure with vet wrap or medical tape. Then slip the boots on top. You will need to experiment to see what works best for each circumstance.

    Rubber Boots

    Balloon and rubber boots have their uses but not in the backcountry. Balloons actually work well and stay on well but will not survive long on abrasive surfaces like rock. They’re better on small dogs, short works, and when salt is a problem with leashed walks around the block. They’ve been used by my friends’ Chihuahuas and Pugs, dogs that need to be carried after a certain amount of time out. The wellies are thicker and some come lined, but some dogs will not do well with the thicker sole, and the boot will not stay on an off leash dog.

    Wonton is happy with his balloons to a point, then demands to be carried.

    Sock boots

    I do not recommend these boots for any long distance off leash running or walking. They’re best for indoors (if your dog is slipping on the floors), for smaller dogs, and those that are just going outside around the block for a potty. They will slip off with movement and are not ideal for snow.

    Classic Style

    I’m just going to call this type of boot the Classic style. They tend to have a soft material on the top, and a rubber sole on the bottom with a strap around the ankle. No matter what anyone says, they are not waterproof, but they’re ok with packed snow. The ankle strap can be very difficult with dewclaws and if you don’t use a sock, they can have a hard time staying on if your dog runs around off leash. A trick is to twist the boot both ways a little bit (clockwise and anticlockwse about a quarter twist) before tightening the strap.

    The Classic style will wear longer than rubber or sock boots. You definitely see your money with the construction of the boot. Cheaper styles will have stitching that rubs against the dog’s paw making blisters. We’ve experienced blisters on the top of the boot, and the sides where the sole meets, as well as the ankle. You also see the pricing difference with the quality of the Velcro.

    The downsides to this boot is many. No matter the brand we’ve tried, my dogs will take these off if we go for hours on a backcountry hike. The snow gathers around the opening and warms up with the temperature of the dog. The snow then turns to ice and starts rubbing at the ankles. My own dogs are hairless and the boots we have tried seem to have been made for dogs with thicker ankles so the boots don’t stay on as well. The versions with thicker soles have been the most disliked because with no feeling at the paw, they cannot scramble or climb obstacles. Last, with time our boots have worn down and the materials have peeled away.

    Overall, these have their uses and I’ve used them for years. I would recommend duct taping them closed, and to a jacket if it’s possible to keep them on. They’re better for dogs that aren’t running around like crazy and I would select boots with thinner soles and a warranty.

    Ruffwear Polar Trex -Thick soles with gaiters. Good idea but Whiskey didn’t like these. She couldn’t feel the ground and the gaiters took up and kept snow inside.

    Canine Equipment Ultimate Trail Boots -4 different boots, L/R back sized smaller than front. Discontinued, longer review here. I liked these boots for the thinner soles, easy to put on straps and warranty that my friends had tried. Unfortunately some of the older boots I had purchased had started wearing on the top and the material split disintegrating to pieces. I’m still using whatever is left however.

    Hurtta Dog boots – We used these until they broke. The fabric on the middle/center of the heel wore through and made holes. Whiskey didn’t mind these and they stayed on if you pulled the strap tightly and then wove it back through the strap in the front. Otherwise they would come off. A new version is supposed to be coming soon.

    Old pair of Hurtta boots. The weak point was the velcro and where the boot joined the sole

    Musher’s

    This type of boot is what we used on mushing dogs while dogsledding in the Yukon. They’re very cheap, easy to put on and off, and are thin so the dogs can feel the ground. You won’t be too frustrated if you loose a couple of these but they won’t last as the fabric does wear out. These boots are good for packed snow on trails, nothing wet (or they will freeze), when you just want to keep the ice out. They’re also a very easy beginner boot if your dog is fussy about the thick soled ones with thick straps. I’ve been using these more with Bourbon because I can’t trust she won’t lose them but so far, I’ve been able to find the ones she’s “lost”.

    I’ve been really liking the Nonstop booties these days. The price is reasonable and they use a higher quality velcro with a bungee that makes putting the boots on easier and tighter. The boots however do let in snow over time with deep powder and then they fill up with snow and fall off. This is normally after several hours running around. The edges also do ice over like the other boots we’ve tried, and you cannot get the boot wet or it will freeze (no running through creeks).

    I’ve used the nonstop Protector Bootie as an injury bootie and I love it but it’s also not good with cold weather as it will freeze as well. It’s more protective in damper and warm conditions but I wouldn’t recommend it in the snow. With all these boots, if you can, duct tape them on!

    after 2.5 hours in the snow, you can see the ice building

    Soft Boots

    There are all higher up the leg than some of the short Classic boots. This can be better or worse for dogs with dewclaws depending on the location of the straps. It’s better for trails where the dogs need just a bit more length so snow doesn’t fill in, but can be worse if the snow does fill in and collects to make ice balls. Like all the other styles, the quality (and usually price point) does make a difference for sewing and materials used.

    The downsides to these boots are they slip down my dogs’ legs. The velcro is never going to hold through all the movement and I haven’t found one with higher quality velcro and many straps. The seams are an edge around the sides of the paw and also rub the paws over time. The snow collects around the rim and will fill into the boot and then freeze when the dog’s body warms the snow into ice. Duct tape can solve most of these issues!

    Muttluks– I like Muttluks as an emergency bootie but the straps aren’t great so I duct tape them to Bourbon’s paws. They’re also all the same size so looser fit in general.

    Voyager K9 Apparel– the highest boot and better for shorter walks, not major hiking because the fabric is not waterproof.

    Neoprene Options

    Great because snow does not stick to Neoprene and even when wet, Neoprene will hold in heat (it’s what wetsuits are made out of to keep people warm in the water). Not great because it’s very thick material and if your dog needs the feel the ground or any kind of technical surface they will probably not like it (Whiskey struggled). With dogs that do not mind a thick sole, these might be a good option.

    Neopaws – a huge variety of sizes and orthopedic options, but very thick sole

    GF Pet Elasto-fit Boots

    Gaiters

    For snow that’s a bit higher but NOT very deep snow. Gaiters will fill with deep snow if there isn’t a seal on the boots and snow will just fill in and collect with no way out (we’ve experienced this and took them off in deep snow). Otherwise it’s great because you can’t lose the boots. They’re complicated to put on, but I used them on both dogs without issues or complaints. Backcountry Paws seems to be constantly out of stock, but I would recommend them if they were possible to order. Contrary to what you might think, I would recommend them for more packed trails so snow won’t get in, or for dogs that won’t go swimming in deep snow.

    Backcountry Paws Gaiters

    Walkee Paws Leggings

    Wax

    If your dog is gathering snowballs or is picking ice off his paws, Wax is a great solution that does not involve losing boots. Trim the hair as much as you can around and under their paws, and apply Musher’s wax (in the car right before you head out). It’s easier to apply the wax when it’s not frozen, and you do not want to get wax on your car, or let your dog lick it off on the ride so just before you run is best. I apply it to my dogs just as a protective layer if I think we are close to their comfortable exposure temperature -5 to -10 in order to increase their ability to run without boots. My girls don’t ball up or collect ice with their silky hair but the wax does help protect their paws slightly.

    paw Pup Wax – use after out for a long time or exposure to salt

    Musher’s wax -works if your dog isn’t cold but gets ice balls around the long hairs between their paws (first would be to cut them shorter). They also do protect for a couple degrees difference (say if your dog needs boots at -5 degrees this might help make a 4 degree difference) and against salt but it does wear off. It it on right before you get out of the car when it’s slightly warmer as I’ve had a harder time when the wax is frozen.

  • the Best Tents and Considerations for Camping with Dogs

    the Best Tents and Considerations for Camping with Dogs

    Camping with dogs can mean freedom and an escape from the city, but it can also have it’s own complications, especially if it’s your first time or you camp solo. A good tent can really ease the transition and prevent accidents that might happen. There is a large variety of tents prices to go with those and since this your “home” while outdoors, it really is worth choosing wisely.

    Prepare

    So you want to go camping but your dog’s never been in a tent? After you purchase one, it’s a good idea to set it up at home, or in the backyard and take a nap together inside. Work on going in and out with treats and teach your pup it’s a good place. Check out this other post I wrote about first time camping with a dog and things to think about, as well as how to introduce the tent. Just please do not zip your dog inside the tent alone unless your dog is very chill, trained, and calm.

    Whiskey with my 1ppl Big Agnes UL fishhook- there are no zippers

    A Large Doorway

    When choosing a tent, look for a larger doorway. Doorways that are small and narrow will be difficult to get in and out when you are stepping over a sleeping pup, and can be frustrating at night. You want a good zipper that doesn’t snag, and ideally several options to open it quickly from inside and out. It’s great to have space to put a towel on the ground to clean paws before they jump onto your sleeping bag, and also space to put shoes, a bag, easy access to leashes. Finally you want to have a wide sightline outside for your dog, approaching animals, and anything else. The more animals you have, the more you will appreciate a wide entryway.

    I’ve now upgraded to a larger 2ppl Nemo Dragonfly tent with 2 dogs

    Mesh

    I cannot stress to you how much a good quality mesh is important with dog nails. UL or Ultra lightweight tents sacrifice tough materials including mesh for weight so it’s easier to carry but this lightweight mesh is very easy to puncture. Whiskey likes to “paw” at the doorway to enter and my heavier tents have withstood this. There are many snags in the mesh, but no holes but I’ve heard so many dogs ruining the popular UL Hubba Hubba mesh trying to jump out at the wrong moment.

    This Marmot Ajax 3ppl tent is well over a decade old and still going

    Freestanding

    Some tents, especially lightweight tents can be non-freestanding where you need to stake lines in order to create the tent shape. They prioritize weight over convivence and can also use trekking poles as tent poles. I don’t recommend these for dogs for several reasons. The more lines you have running from the tent, the more entanglement you’ll get with legs and leashes. Bourbon seems to have fun pulling out pegs on my last trip and the inside of my tent tends to wander with two dogs so a strong, freestanding tent is my goal. If your tent structure goes down every time a stake gets pulled, it could get frustrating! These tents also take longer to set up and especially with multiple dogs, rain, and wildlife, you just might want to have less complications in life! Lastly, I camp in rocky locations and places where pegging isn’t really an option, so a freestanding tent is a must.

    Group 8 day backpacking trip

    Pockets

    I LOVE pockets! Pockets in tents are amazing. There’s always collars, leashes, sprays, towels, and a multitude of things that need to be packed away in it’s own place. I always put my headlamp, dog collars, and first aid things right next to my head. Pockets are also great for drying out whatever the dogs get muddy, and keeping the tent floor from becoming a huge mess when they start digging into your sleeping bag.

    My cheaper, heavier tent withstood the snow and wind better than the UL tents my friends had

    Footprint/Flooring

    Buy it, use it! Spend the extra cash for a footprint and use it, or a tarp is just as good. A thicker tent may not need a footprint (I don’t always use one myself when it’s dry) but lighter tents will need one and it will keep your tent lasting longer and dryer and prevent abrasions from rocks and dog paws digging.

    I suggest a footprint with snow or wet ground

    Single/Double wall

    Some lighter tents or cheaper tents may be single-walled. They tend to be solid so water does not go through but if pressed, water will condense through. These will not be as ventilated as double walled tents that will have mesh as an inner layer with a waterproof fly. I highly suggest double walled tents. Many dogs will like to lay in a corner of the tent pushing against the tent walls and if it’s a single layer, can bring water in. The single layer laminated wall is also the only layer between you and the elements so if it rips, you will need to pray you have enough duct tape! When the weather gets too warm or stuffy, it’s also nice to be able to take off the rainfly and let the tent air out or even enjoy the stars! But if your dog isn’t feeling safe open to the elements (many dogs feel uneasy) you can put the fly back on and create a closed off den.

    This is a cheaper Coleman 6ppl tent we car-camped out of for a month and half

    Car Camping

    With weight not a problem, I would suggest a large tent you can stand inside (check the height) and a second-hand or affordable one. You don’t need lightweight, and most tents these days are made well enough to withstand wind, rain, and typical use. The ability to stand-in and change or wrangle dogs without kneeling is SO helpful. Unless you’re camping more than 30 days a year, most cheaper tents will work just fine. We forgot our tent on our trip to Alaska and bought a cheap Coleman tent at Canadian Tire that lasted the entire trip fine under all weather and even crazy winds. With cheap tents, expect to replace pegs and take a little bit extra time to put together. The poles may have cheaper elastic but that’s also easily fixed with duct tape. Our North Face tent was much better made and still survives to this day, but it’s heavier (better fabric), packs easier, and has better zippers. If this is your first time out camping, put your money elsewhere (like a good mat!).

    This is my 4ppl Northface tent for car-camping that you can stand up in

    Backcountry Camping

    This is where weight and packability matters. For most brands, there are UL tents of various sorts and a cheaper line of tents. Even though the UL tents tend to be more expensive, I do not suggest them because the material is easier to break and do not stand up to dog use well. Unless you have one well trained dog and weight is of utmost importance, I would suggest a heavier, cheaper tent and take on the extra 2lbs it may weigh. Either way, bring some duct tape on your trip in case something rips open and a big scoop of good humor! Camping with dogs is always interesting!

    A double walled tent allows you to take off the fly and enjoy the stars and breeze

    We’ve used the Marmot Ajax 3ppl tent for 2 of us and Whiskey for well over a decade. I’ve got a UL 1ppl tent for solo camping that’s only 2 lbs (it’s the Fishook tent with no zipper) but that would be too tight with 2 dogs, camera gear, and clothing. I still carry the 3ppl 6lb tent when just solo camping with Whiskey sometimes because it’s just so much more comfortable if the conditions are rainy. Being stuck in a 1ppl tent for a rainy evening or afternoon is SO uncomfortable and I would rather carry weight than be stuck in an awkward tight position. Researching further I just ordered the Nemo 2ppl tent as my new solo tent and I’ve been considering the Copper Spur 3ppl tent as a new 3ppl option but am holding back due to the flimsy material and huge cost. I think if I’m sharing a tent, then sharing the load would be acceptable.

    My heavier Marmot swallow 3ppl tent for winter camping

    Winter Camping

    I haven’t done too much backcountry snow camping but I did buy a heavier vintage tent for the purpose. It’s very warm, with loads of venting options, space, and can seal up tight if needed. Winter tents that are light are very expensive, so vintage was the way to go! Even though it’s not the latest tech, the huge zippers, heavy mesh make me so comfortable with dogs running in and out. The last time I used the tent it was actually too warm in the morning, and I haven’t found too many friends that want to winter camp so I just haven’t had the opportunity to use this one too often.

    FAQ

    What’s the best backcountry tent for 1 person and a dog?

    I would suggest a stand-alone, double walled, cross-bar 1 or 2 person tent to share with a dog. Crossbar tents are quick and easy to set up with a large door and slightly thicker mesh (not super UL). Make sure the zipper is well made and does not snag.

    What’s the best car camping tent for dogs?

    If you are starting out, get something that is easy for one person to set up (unless you always camp with multiple people)

    How do I teach dogs to camp in a tent?

    Check out this blog about first time camping with dogs!

    What other gear is good for camping with dogs?

    Here’s a blogpost on Our Best and Tested Gear for Camping with Dogs

  • Why a Vizsla is the Wrong Dog Breed for You

    Why a Vizsla is the Wrong Dog Breed for You

    Vizsla’s aren’t the sort of dog that’s good for everyone, they aren’t the “best” family dog, nor the dog that fits into every situation. Contrary to my entire website and life, I find myself discouraging many people I talk to in the dog park from getting a Vizsla “because they’re so pretty what’s the breed?”. It’s totally false advertising when they see a calm Vizsla heeling at my side downtown, ignoring other dogs and squirrels and posing for the camera. I just happen to have an oddity, that I poured hundreds of hours into training, and that has been out hiking 4 times already this week. Bourbon’s a better example…except she’s either not visible on trails because she’s elsewhere, or she’s wrapping herself around the legs of a stranger all cute and noodley. They don’t see all the time, energy and money spent!

    Very pretty dogs, can work against them if they bought just for looks

    The Good Stuff

    The problem with Vizslas, is that upon appearance (if they are standing still enough to see, or by photographs on the internet) they look amazing. They’re gorgeous, short haired, don’t smell much, look sweet tempered, and a very reasonable size. A quick Google search will tell you Vizslas are gentle natured, loyal, friendly, versatile, and eager to please. So what’s not to like? Why are Vizslas not the next Labs or Golden Retrievers fit for any family?

    The (potentially) Bad Stuff

    Breeders get hundreds of emails a week during Covid…so it will be very hard to find a good one

    It’s hard to even buy a good one

    First off, Vizslas are prone to Epileptic seizures, skin allergies, cancers, and other disorders. It’s not more than the typical breed, but if you don’t find a reputable breeder that screens for these issues, you could have a sick dog. Finding breeders and getting a puppy (especially in less than 2 years) is extremely difficult and most people do not want to wait this long, or do so much homework, send so many emails and phone calls just to buy a dog. Going the less reputable direction can buy you a dog with a huge variety of issues that are screened by ethical breeders. I’ve seen this happen time and time again, and it’s so sad to see an early death, sick puppy, and dangerous behavioural issues.

    Goodbye Bourbon! After 8 days of continuous backcountry hiking, she was good to keep going!

    The energy level is not ideal for most

    Most people’s life does not allow for 2 hour walks outside, hunting, running their dog in an agility ring, or spending so much time centered around their dog. Between a job, kids, social engagements, travel, there are few people that would be ok walking their dog for hours outside, even when it’s raining, even in the winter, even after work in the dark. Vizslas are high energy dogs that love to use their brains, learn new things, and are extremely versatile in work they can do. The key is WORK. They love having a job, pleasing their human, and doing well at their jobs. It’s like the A+ student at the front of the class, hands up to answer every question, on speed. These dogs want to run, sniff, do things or they can be destructive when bored. They’re not ideal if you like a calm household, expect order, and your children aren’t the rough and tumble sort.

    Bird dogs want to hunt for birds and will hunt regardless of your own preferences
    Bourbon can become deaf if she’s chasing birds. She’ll run for hours until you can catch her!

    A hunting dog wants to hunt

    If you’re a hunter, wonderful! But if you don’t hunt and you get a hunting dog, please expect your dog to want to hunt things. If you’re not interested in a dog that sniffs out dead animals, stalks pigeons, and shakes with excitement at every squirrel in the park, then this can get frustrating. They’re bred to respond to hunt and find prey so this might not be ideal for lots of people. The ability can be aimed at work (sniff work for example) or you might take your dog out to hunt tests, but if you’d like your dog to walk on leash calmly on a hiking trail near a bird sanctuary…you have hundreds of hours of training to do.

    Vizslas love sitting on their humans, being with their humans and touching them

    Velcro is not an exaggeration- Separation anxiety

    Vizslas are known as Velcro dogs and although many of my own friends are dog lovers, they don’t really want a dog glued to them at all times. Some like to go to the bathroom alone, take a shower without someone checking up on them, and some others would like to work without a dog in their chair. It’s very typical for Vizslas to wake themselves up and follow you from room to room just be close to you. If “personal space” is something you treasure…this is not the right breed!

    To further the point, this breed needs humans to be close and if you’re not around much, can develop separation anxiety. They’re not an independent breed that will be fine without you. Leave a Vizsla outside in a backyard and you’ll see them staring at you on the other side of the glass door wanting you to be out there with them. A backyard will do you no good unless you’re having fun with them outside.

    Bourbon in no less than 3 layers for a 6 hour hike in the cold. I had to carry extra layers in case

    Short-haired and Climate

    Vizslas have very short hair and only one coat so if your climate is colder, the breed may not be ideal. These are indoor dogs, not outdoors and cannot survive in low temperatures like double-coated dogs. I constantly need to bring jackets, boots, and more if we are going for long 5+ hour adventures in weather that may not be ideal. They can hate the rain, and shiver miserably, and can have a hard time retrieving in icy cold waters, especially for a length of time.

    Boots and jackets are not needed for huskies in conditions like these

    Time and Energy needed

    More than most breeds, Vizslas are a bit like tiny humans in that they take TIME and ENERGY. They’ll give you back so much love, but you need to put in the time and energy first. They demand it, and you will see this under no uncertain terms. They’re very needy dogs, with lots of feelings and emotions and love to hear your voice. They love to be pampered with blankets and pillows and attention. Whiskey will interrupt me at work, insistently asking for me to just stare into her eyes and love on her. Bourbon will sit and whine until I tend to her emotional needs.

    Sensitive to a fault

    Have you ever met anyone that seemed to take things you said the wrong way? Maybe your tone of voice or wording and they were instantly hurt? There are some dogs that people can yell at and train pretty harshly without too much trauma but Vizslas can shut down quickly. Bourbon is quick to frighten and remembers every tiny thing forever. I’ve seen so many Vizslas scream and shake and cower after receiving a bump or nip from another dog where most dogs might recover in a couple seconds. I’ve had Vizslas limp over to me, totally distressed with a hanging paw and I’ve had to ‘pretend’ to look them over, kiss their limp paw and tell them they’re ok. And then off they run full speed and ‘recovered’.

    The sensitivity can also show up in food sensitivities or drama when not feeling well. Whiskey was SUCH a picky eater with tummy problems when she was younger. When she got giardia (diarrhea and vomiting) and I brought her to the vet and because she was being so dramatic the vet thought she was much worse than she actually was. Her heartbeat was too slow, she was shaking (emotional) and hiding underneath my chair in a ball. There’s alot of managing emotions that might not be as big an issue with other dogs.

    Stamina and speed

    Vizslas were bred to run fast, and run long. They can keep up with horseback and go all day. Perhaps you don’t want a dog that recovers from a 25km run in a couple hours, or a puppy that just *never* goes to sleep. There were so many times I would drive out 2 hours for a hike, hike 6 hours, and drive back. By the time I got home, Whiskey was ready to go again, and I still hadn’t unpacked my hiking bag! Stamina is amazing, but it might not be what you want in a dog. These are the dogs you bring to a dog park and they run one dog after another until the entire park is exhausted and lying down…except your Vizsla is now ready for a one hour game of fetch.