I’ve been using and trying boots on our girls for years and wanted to share an updated revision of my last review here. Many of the older boots are no longer in production but you can still get them used and there are very similar copies out there with the same benefits and issues. I’ve grouped the boots into categories that I’ve made notes on. Please let me know what you think! These are based soley on my opinion and nothing more. My girls do not have dewclaws, and are short-haired Vizslas.
Dewclaws/ Small paws
One of the biggest hurdles to booties are dewclaws or if your dog has small paws (in relation to ankles) and the boots slip off easily. Even though my girls do not have these issues, this is the advice I’ve seen works. Dewclaws rub on straps, edges of boots and over time they can bleed and make boots very painful. Some boots have straps in better locations (you need to try them) but even without a strap, the inward pressure on the dewclaw and material rubbing can be painful.
If you notice this happening, use Vet Wrap (any brand will do, same used for humans) which is a self adhesive wrap under and then over the dewclaw. Do not wrap too tightly so it cuts off circulation or too loosely that it will move. It’s to prevent the dewclaw from moving too much. Then either put the boot over it, or use a sock on top.
Socks are another layer of protection for dewclaws, or dogs with paws that are too slim so boots slip off. Either with or without the vet wrap, slide the boot on, and secure with vet wrap or medical tape. Then slip the boots on top. You will need to experiment to see what works best for each circumstance.
Classic
These boots are the classic ones I see. They tend to have a soft material on the top, and a rubber sole on the bottom with a strap around the ankle. No matter what anyone says, they are not waterproof, but they’re ok with packed wetter snow. The ankle strap can be very difficult with dewclaws and if you don’t use a sock, they can have a hard time staying on if your dog runs around off leash. A trick is to twist the boot both ways a little bit (clockwise and anticlockwse about a quarter twist) before tightening the strap.
Ruffwear Polar Trex -Thick soles with gaiters. Good idea but Whiskey didn’t like these. She couldn’t feel the ground and the gaiters took up and kept snow inside.
Canine Equipment Ultimate Trail Boots -4 different boots, L/R back sized smaller than front. Discontinued, longer review here. I liked these boots for the thinner soles, easy to put on straps and warranty that my friends had tried. Unfortunately some of the older boots I had purchased had started wearing on the top and the material split disintegrating to pieces. I’m still using whatever is left however.
Hurtta Dog boots – We used these until they broke. The fabric on the middle/center of the heel wore through and made holes. Whiskey didn’t mind these and they stayed on if you pulled the strap tightly and then wove it back through the strap in the front. Otherwise they would come off. A new version is supposed to be coming soon.
Expawlorer Amazon dog boots -All these Amazon boots look like they’re made in the same factory with different names. They seem decent for the low price, ok for dogs without dewclaws walking on leash in packed snow or the city. Depending on your dog’s paws they may stay on for play, or they may not!
Old pair of Hurtta boots. The weak point was the velcro and where the boot joined the sole
Musher’s
This type of boot is what we used on mushing dogs while dogsledding in the Yukon a decade ago. They’re very cheap, easy to put on and off, and are thin so the dogs can feel the ground. You won’t be too frustrated if you loose a couple of these but they won’t last as the fabric does wear out. These boots are good for packed snow on trails, nothing wet (or they will freeze), when you just want to keep the ice out. They’re also a very easy beginner boot if your dog is fussy about the thick soled ones with thick straps
after 2.5 hours in the snow, you can see the ice building
Non-stop Dog Wear -my current favorite for cross country skiing. Even in -20 degrees on a packed trail my girls have not complained and are happy to run. They will not protect as much from direct cold as a thicker sole and does collect ice around the ankles after a couple hours.
Higher boots
There are all higher up the leg than some of the short boots. This can be better or worse for dogs with dewclaws depending on the location of the straps. It’s better for trails where the dogs need just a bit more length so snow doesn’t fill in, but can be worse if the snow does fill in and collects to make ice balls.
Muttluks– I like Muttluks as an emergency bootie but the straps aren’t great so I duct tape them to Bourbon’s paws. They’re also all the same size so looser fit.
Voyager K9 Apparel– the highest boot and better for shorter walks, not major hiking
Great because snow does not stick to Neoprene and even when wet, Neoprene will hold in heat (it’s what wetsuits are made out of to keep people warm in the water). Not great because it’s very thick material and if your dog needs the feel the ground or any kind of technical surface they will probably not like it (Whiskey struggled).
Neopaws – a huge variety of sizes and orthopedic options, but very thick sole
For snow that’s a bit higher but NOT deep snow. Gaiters will fill with deep snow if there isn’t a seal on the boots and snow will just fill in and collect with no way out (we’ve experienced this and took them off in deep snow). Otherwise it’s great because you can’t lose the boots. They’re complicated to put on, but I used them on both dogs without issues or complaints. Backcountry Paws seems to be constantly out of stock, but I would recommend them if they were possible to order. Contrary to what you might think, I would recommend them for more packed trails so snow won’t get in, or for dogs that won’t go swimming in deep snow.
paw Pup Wax – use after out for a long time or exposure to salt
Musher’s wax -works if your dog isn’t cold but gets ice balls around the long hairs between their paws (first would be to cut them shorter). They also do protect for a couple degrees difference (say if your dog needs boots at -5 degrees this might help make a 4 degree difference) and against salt but it does wear off. It it on right before you get out of the car when it’s slightly warmer as I’ve had a harder time when the wax is frozen.
Vancouver’s North Shore has been our go-to for short and long walks ever since we got Whiskey. As the years have gone by, it’s gotten busier and sharing the trail with other hikers, runners, dogs, bikers, and bears becomes a little more difficult.
Here’s a mix of Instagrammable dog friendly hikes mixed with peaceful ones typically only visited by locals. If you have dogs, I would suggest to go very early, go late, go on weekdays, and rainy days, especially for busy trails. Generally, I would avoid busy trails on sunny weekends with dogs to respect other trail users. Bike trails tend to be less busy but are shared with bikers so keep an ear open for wheels coming down! Know how to deal with bears, and keep a wide berth and respect for all wildlife, as it’s their home we are entering and don’t forget the cougars and coyotes too!
Although the 14km Norvan Falls is relatively flat, lots of people do get lost and need rescue on this trail. It leads to many tougher backcountry hikes and some people are still missing.
Finally, trails do close over the winters and always remember the 10 essentials. If you get lost, call 911 for help as soon as you can, and if you are out of reception, take a satellite device such as an Inreach Mini. I’m linking to a variety of sources, so please check them online before you go out!
*** busy ** well used * less busy 🌊waterfall 🌲 forest 👀views 💦lake/river/ocean
Lighthouse Park has wide easy access trails and wilder ones to explore
Flat/Easy
Lighthouse Park ***🌲💦👀- One of my favorite places to go with friends with kids, or someone that’s not able to hike anything strenuous. There’s lots of variety in terrain and views, as well as bathrooms and is very dog friendly.
Whytecliff Park ***👀💦- Go when low tide, read the tide charts and don’t get stuck on the island! More of a fun walk then a hike with beautiful views of Vancouver, to Vancouver island. We’ve even seen a gray whale here!
Inter River Park ***🌲💦- Connects to the Lynn Valley system and up to Lynn Headwaters, great for trail running, and has a couple beautiful watering holes to swim in. Continue up all the way to Lynn Headwaters for a very long hike or jog.
Deep Cove Park and Wickenden Park ***🌲👀💦- A lovely flat and easy place to walk your dog. The Deep Cove community is also lovely to discover but very busy for parking on the weekends.
Spirit Trail * -City Trail that runs 6.5km on the North Shore’s waterfront. Do a portion and see the city in a different way. I especially like the less busy West portion that becomes more green.
Mosquito Creek Park **🌲💦- 4.2km of a meandering path along a salmon habitat.
Dog Mountain in the snow is a wonderlandCypress Falls is very dog friendlyWhyte Lake is a fairytale trail with lots of moss
Moderate/Easy
Whyte Lake **🌲💦- One of my favorite trails on a rainy day. There’s something special about this one, with really nice sections and big cedars and firs. There’s a walkway around a small section of the lake that’s very beautiful too.
Old Buck Trail/Seymour Bike trails *🌲- There’s a load of bike trails on lower Seymour that are great to wander around with your pup, just keep your ears open for bikes
Fromme Bike Trails *🌲- Similar to the Seymour trails there’s loads of bike trails to walk or run when it’s rainy or you just want a change of scenery. Keep your dogs off the bike trail, or close to you so you can quickly jump out of the path if you hear bikes coming down. There’s lots of amazing sections through the forest. Watch out for bears!
Bowen Lookout **👀- short hike with a wonderful sunset view, keep going to St Marks but only if safe in winter
Dog Mountain ***🌲👀- Amazing for sunrise, I only go on weekdays or it’s too busy. During the winter the road is closed so check opening times. Great views of the city and a lovely walk.
Quarry Rock ***🌲👀💦- There are many ways to get to this famous rock, look at maps, the main path goes through the end of the Baden Powell trail in Deep Cove with a lovely walk through a beautiful forest. Can be so busy on weekends they are trying to limit the amount of people. Don’t forest to pick up a doughnut at Honey’s afterwards!
Cypress Falls Park **🌲🌊- A friendly neighborhood park that leads to some nice falls. The falls are viewed from above and at a distance but it’s still lovely. Don’t go too close to the cliffs as it’s unstable. The trails around are also beautiful.
St Mary’s Trail *🌲- Connects to Baden Powell and other bike trails, I normally start on St. Mary’s Ave and connect to the Grouse Mountain Highway on one trail or another and make a loop back.
Goldie Lake Loop *🌲💦 -ski hill in winter, quiet in summer. Sometimes I just bring some lunch to eat on the slopes and do a little walk.
Mackay Creek *🌲💦 – Another loop that ties into the Baden Powell. There’s loads of these you can make up and do depending on the time and workout you want. Great for a quieter option. This one has the F-86 Jet Crash Memorial
Hollyburn is a quick hike with views of the LionsBrothers Creek goes through a beautiful forestThe view up at Eagle Bluffs in the winter
Moderate
Seymour Peak***🌲👀 my favorite! With 3 pumps or peaks, each with amazing views, there’s so much to love about this varied hike. I would stick to first pump while there’s snow on the trail and avoid the full peak until summer as there’s avalanche risk and exposure between 2nd and 3rd. Very busy and I run into black bears frequently here.
Eagle Bluffs ***🌲👀 – The popular route starts you at Cypress Mountain through Black Mountain, the less popular starts you at Horseshoe Bay. Either route has incline (the Baden Powell more so) but I would avoid the BP route in the winter due to avalanche issues.
Norvan Falls **🌲🌊- A lovely 14km trail run to a beautiful waterfall. Take care on this route and make sure you’re very familiar or you have lots of daylight left as many people need rescue getting lost here. Trails starting off Norvan Falls are for advanced hikers only so please don’t attempt unless you’re fully prepared.
Baden Powell *🌲💦- 45.5kms of trail connecting Horseshoe bay to Deep Cove. Choose a section or do it all! If you’re attempting it all, please push this trail to the “Difficult” section! For most sections, I would say it’s moderate.
Brother’s Creek **🌲🌊💦- nice loop options in a beautiful forest with some gigantic trees, bridge was taken out but still possible to cross creek if adventurous. Try sidetrips to other lakes like Blue Gentian and Lost Lake if you want to extend.
Hollyburn Mountain **🌲👀-busier in winter, less in summer, steep inclines with an amazing view.
Big cedar and Kennedy falls *🌲🌊- People get lost here, I’m not really sure why but make sure you have a map you can read and are comfortable in the wilderness because it can get wild fast. The parking is mainly for bikers and can get busy in the summer.
Mt Fromme *🌲👀- An easy to access peak and relatively rarely hiked mountain. The base starts at the bike parking and you can have lots of bikers heading up on the wide FSR. Criss-crossed by loads of bike trails, just keep an eye on your map to not get lost!
Twin Falls-Lynn Valley-Suspension Bridge ***🌲🌊💦- busy but lovely trail that goes through two bridges along a river and some super gorgeous forest. Avoid the crowds on weekdays and the rainy season. The cliffs can be very dangerous and the river can sweep an unsuspecting pup quickly down so keep away from any edges or fast moving water.
Elsay Lake trail is a long downhill climb to a wild lakeCrown Mountain is a huge hike through Hanes
Difficult
Most of these trails are VERY technical and NOT ok for most dogs. Leashing while scrambling can be extremely dangerous and I do not recommend you bring any dogs that are not fully in control. Please do not attempt these trails alone and without your 10 essentials and letting someone know your eta. Start early and bring water for your dog!
Elsay Lake *🌲👀💦- A rare hike that goes down, not up! The trail is easy to lose if the visibility isn’t far and goes by many rock falls that can be avalanche zones in snow. It’s harder than it looks on the map. Very few tenting spots, please do not use the Emergency shelter unless it’s an emergency.
Coliseum *🌲🌊👀- Start this one earlier than you think, especially if you’re parking at the Lynn Headwaters that locks for the evening. Very muddy for most of the year, and possible to continue further if you’re a crazy trail runner to Mount Burwell.
Crown via Hanes **🌲🌊👀- Only accessible through Lynn Valley, heading up through Hanes Valley and back down. This makes for a VERY full day. Dogs are no longer welcome on the BCMC but other trails like Fromme can make this a loop. High elevation gain, long distance, and a route notorious for needing rescues. The last section is technical and a scramble. If you’re parking at Lynn Headwaters, be aware of closing times or you may initiate a rescue if you’re not back at your car by the time they close the gates. Hanes is very dangerous if there’s low visibility and many people get lost here. There’s very little sources of water along the route past Norvan, and this is a no-go zone during avalanche season. Those without dogs can do a much shorter hike from Grouse Gondola (dogs not allowed on Grouse, BCMC)
South Needle *🌲👀- The trail can be busy until Lynn Peak, then empties out and gets more strenuous. A less visited peak that’s easy to access for lovely views. Please note that you cannot access with dogs on the Seymour side (that I know of).
Howe Sound Crest Trail ***🌲👀- One of the best hikes (or multiday hikes) you can do in the region. This hike is normally done over several days and is a hike-through so you need to have a plan to get back to your car. It’s on rugged terrain and is much harder than you might expect if you just look at the distance and gain. The trail does go through some watershed areas so please note where you’re allowed to camp. The rocks and terrain can be really rough for dogs (I’ve seen a dog tear through all 4 pads attempting this one) so ensure you’ve got all your safety gear. There are spots that are very exposed and steep, making this a no-go for most during wet or snow conditions. You can always do a section of the trail as a day-hike. There are loads of side peaks that you can do to add on but keep an eye on your water. There are not too many watering holes especially during the top of summer.
From Mt Unnecessary looking at the Lions on the Howe Sound Crest Trail
Do you love getting out and adventuring with your dog but you just wish there was that one piece of gear to make it all easier? Perhaps your dog is slightly injured, has allergies, or keeps building up ice on their boots? Here’s a list of specialized dog gear that you might find useful!
Musher’s Secret: Use paw wax in place of winter booties. Originally designed for sledding dogs, this wax can help prevent snowballing, salt, ice build-up, hot sand and pavement. I do find the wax wears off during a walk or hike so you’ll need several applications over the day but it’s a great option to booties.
Bodhi wearing the downpour suit with integrated bug repellant
Sun and Bug Blocker Hurtta: A bodysuit with UPF 40 and bug repellent built in! Great if your dog loves to camp but is severely allergic to mosquitoes, ticks or horseflies. Or perhaps your dog has recent surgery and needs to stay out of the sun! There are also vests and a Downpour suit that has permethrin imbedded in it should you need a warmer or other option.
Whiskey in her Whyld River sleeping bag
Whyld River Sleeping Bag: A sleeping bag designed to separate, clip in, or permanently toggle each section for maximum flexibility. The snaps will pop off if your dog wants out, but if you want to keep it closed even if your dog moves, use the toggles. We helped design this bag and love and use it! Discount code: WHISKEY10
Neopaws Boots with loads of sizes made of neoprene
Neopaws Orthopedic Boots: orthopedic winter boots with support that are made out of Neoprene, good even for water use! You can even buy insoles to adjust the height of each boot so you can take your older pup out for walks without pain.
Neopaws Gaiters: Dog gaiters/boot covers to prevent snow/ice buildup on dog boots.
Dog gaiters with boots attached
Backcountry Paws Gaiters: Dog gaiters with boots attached. We love these and use them all the time under a jacket because there’s no more chances of losing a boot! A little complicated to put on but well worth not having to worry about and search for a lost bootie.
Ruffwear Doubleback Harness: a Belay specialized harness for climbing and repelling. This full body dog lifting harness is for crag dogs that love to follow their owners everywhere. It’s the only harness I’ve seen that has the back leg loops and specifically made for climbing.
Ear Pro: Dog hearing ear protection Designed for working military dogs, these are great for noise sensitive pups, or dogs living in and working in loud environments to help prevent hearing loss.
Rex Specs googles
Rex Specs: Dog eye protection We love these goggles to protect eyes from high winds (on a motorcycle), extreme cold, hunting in bush, eye injuries, sun glare, and other medical needs. With 5 sizes the goggles cover most sizes and look awesome.
No Flap Ear Wrap: Dog ear injury protection Dog ear injuries take forever to heal and can bloody your walls quickly. Keep your dog’s ear protected and dry with this Ear Wrap.
Bourbon: what to expect from a high energy Vizsla puppy
Here’s a diary of our first 5 months with Bourbon at home. It covers the flight home to our current situation. I’ve mentioned training, eating, chewing, hikes, dogs, distances, crates, and everything in-between.
Vaccinations: Bourbon was vaccinated before we got her, as well as at 10 weeks, and tittered at 16 weeks (she showed a high level of antibodies so no more vaccinations needed). Our area has no outbreak of Parvo (the biggest one to watch out for before letting your puppy on trails), and we kept to safe areas until her 10 week vaccination. We rarely visit dog parks and wouldn't suggest any until older.
Disclaimer: Other sources may have very different opinions on what's an appropriate time and length of walk for a dog of a certain age. The main takeaway is to avoid strain/impact on growing bones like jumping on hard surfaces, long down-climbs, sustained running/biking, really anything much on concrete, and extended distances. Every breed is very different (would you suggest the same exercise routine for a bulldog as for a Vizsla?) but I'm no expert.
I had wanted to avoid having to fly alone with Bourbon but because of Covid regulations, driving was not possible. Instead of a 6 hour drive, I had to complete a 14 hour door-to-door adventure with a brand new 8 week old puppy. We had 2 flights (Air Alaska), 2 car rides, Immigration, several security checks and lots of misadventures. The time waiting for flights in the airport was the hardest because I was alone (try going to the bathroom with your carry-on roller bag and a Vizsla puppy, with a mask in a busy airport). There was so much activity and noise that treats and chews weren’t really working as a distraction so I found running back and forth in a little section was the busiest I could keep Bourbon. We stayed away from any carpet in case she had to pee, and I laid out the puppy pee pads every chance I had.
I thought to board last so I don’t have to wait in a packed plane in line with a screaming dog and had the least possible amount of time in the airplane. I had chosen a seat at the back of the plane so we had some space and a quick walk to the bathroom (the puppy is supposed to stay in the bag the entire time but with Whiskey we found in order to let her pee, we would take her to the toilet, lay down a pee pad and she would go). Unfortunately the air hostess that reads out the take off instructions was located at the back right next to us and Bourbon screamed her little head off, so much so, that the air hostess was giggling over the intercom (Sorry!!).
Once we did take off I was allowed to put the soft crate bag in my lap and open the top so Bourbon’s head could see me and breathe. Thankfully after her screaming fit she fell asleep once we were in the air. Upon landing she woke up again and we tried to get through immigration as fast as possible. I declared my new puppy to import and paid a really small amount of fees before I found our car and headed home for another 1.5 hour drive. Bourbon thankfully was amazing in the car and didn’t get carsick the way Whiskey used to. I think the entire ordeal was pretty exhausting for us both.
Day 2 with the monsterBlep
Day 1-3
Arriving with Bourbon, I was living alone (in quarantine) for over the first week. Bourbon was expectedly confused with her new surroundings. Our home is about 1000sq ft, about half of it was baby-gated off. The first couple days Bourbon would cry if she wasn’t in the same room as me. If I left to go to the bathroom, she would get lost looking for me so I kept the doors opened, taught her to follow my voice, and laid out a soft dog bed in every room so she had a place to wait.
Our backyard is not fenced so I kept her on a leash in the front yard and let her trail a leash in the backyard. I had no idea what her bladder schedule was like so I took her out after every meal, every time she woke up, every half an hour she was awake, and treated and praised her for going outside. I didn’t have a harness ready because I had such a hard time trying to guess the size to get (big mistake) but luckily our cat harness fit for the first week until I could order and receive the Ruffwear Flagline harness (XS was loose but worked for her entire puppy-hood).
We still had a couple accidents inside, but never more than one a day, and overall Bourbon was much easier to housetrain than Whiskey (in an apartment vs a house). She however had a habit of stepping in her poop right after going so I had lots of use for dog wipes. I wasn’t working so it really helped I could just spend my time watching her and try to sneak in a shower or make a quick meal if she fell asleep.
I didn’t want to crate train right away as I felt horrible pulling Bourbon from her littermates to a cold plastic crate so Bourbon slept with me very happily. To be honest I was also too exhausted to add sleep deprivation into the mix so I kept delaying crate training until later. Bourbon also worked out her relationship with our cat Moo over the next couple weeks learning to fear the creature and also how to play “stalk and kill” with her.
Getting a sit stayLovely nap, now lets what can I chew on
First week- (8-9 weeks old)
5-7 hours sleep (in bed) 100m “walks” sit/paw/come
Our first week together I was mostly working on bonding, getting a solid sit, and practicing all the recall I could! We worked on chewing the right items and learning how to settle. She was a little shark and would just chew anything in sight so redirecting was a full time job (it’s easier if you have loads of toys of different textures available throughout the house always at an arms reach). Chews we used are listed here
Settling was very important, where you need to hold your pup and calm them when they are overly tired or out of control. It teaches them how to self regulate early, and how to put themselves to sleep. Bourbon was pretty good at this in the beginning but you had to be very firm and calm and totally ignore all the bites and wiggles. This gets much harder as they get older and smarter and we had to relearn this several times but it’s such a game changer. I find that the advice to yelp when they bite does NOT work when they are having sharkies (going nuts and biting everything). It only ramps them up and the yelping didn’t seem to work for anyone I talked to at this stage (during active sharkies). What really worked was slowing my own heartrate down, holding her in a way she couldn’t escape, and calmly (I know this is really hard when your hands are bleeding) saying “settle” or a cue word. Focusing on my own heartrate, transferring calmness to Bourbon really helped her relax. The key was to wait until she had this signature deep sigh and I knew she had settled. Sometimes I needed to repeat this multiple times but it made life so much easier.
I also lent Bourbon out to friends so they could take her around new situations because I was in quarantine and couldn’t expose her to everything I wanted to. It also helped to prevent separation anxiety and fears. My lovely friends took her to a café, to Home Depot, around different neighborhoods and trails (but did stay away from dog-busy frequently trafficked areas to avoid diseases). She stayed close and on leash and didn’t seem to mind a change of humans. I spent my free time cutting down blackberry bushes that Bourbon seemed to love chewing (they had large sharp thorns!).
At this point Bourbon wasn’t food motivated and had to learn that treats were to be valued (she preferred her own kibble to cheese). There was little to no attention span and self control. My main goal was to bond with her and find her motivations so I had something to work with in terms of training.
At night, Bourbon could sleep up 5-7 hours straight, one potty early morning, and back to another 5 hours. Sleeping with her was a dream and she was really sweet and cuddly.
I knew I wanted to switch Bourbon to raw food but I didn’t want to change her food right after a traumatic separation from her family and such a crazy transition though the airports and roads. I waited a couple days to make sure her poops were good, and then offered a bit of raw which she willingly ate. I tried a meal of half/half but Bourbon would pick out what was familiar (the kibble) so I fully switched the next meal to all raw and success! I then used the rest of the kibble as training treats until they were all finished. I didn’t seem to have any transition issues or tummy issues with the whole ordeal.
2nd weekTiny short forest walks (like 500m)
2nd week (9-10 weeks old)
5-7 hours sleep (in bed) 500m “walks” sit/paw/come/leave it/down/go potty
I thought I was getting the hang of settling but it got harder! Sharkies got worse with more bite, more energy and no fear. Bourbon was introduced to her first off leash walks in the forest where she stayed very close and recalled like a champ. I was able to introduce the concept of “leave it” so a tiny bit of self control, as well as crating when she needed a time out.
She continued to have zoomies and sharkies and was introduced to Whiskey. As soon as she had Whiskey, she just clung to her and would want to be playing with her or sitting on her so we needed to make sure that Whiskey wasn’t overwhelmed and had her own space. Whiskey had separate hikes during the day and slept in a different bed. However I did train the together, and treated Whiskey generously when she let Bourbon touch or cuddle with her (it took 48 hours). Bourbon just automatically gravitated towards Whiskey over any human and followed her lead. It was both easier and harder!
Out on the trails Bourbon would adventure and discover on her own. I slept with Bourbon and Thierry had Whiskey in another room with her regular crate routine. At this time we noticed Bourbon had some issues with being constrained and she had a fractured toe (from various accidents that made it worse). She also hinted at a guarding behavior. I started working on little training sessions to offset what I saw. I trained with treats and jackets (jackets seemed to trigger her), harness, and “leave it” commands. We also played games where we would play a little rough and hold her down for a second and let her go again which she was ok with.
First canoe tripsLake Louise in the Canadian Rockies
3-4 week (10-12 weeks old)
5-7 hours sleep 750m-1km “walks” (over an hour, lots of breaks) sit/paw/come/leave it/down/go potty/stay/boats/
As soon as I was out of quarantine, we went on a roadtrip and introduced Bourbon to many many new things. She lived in a car and a tiny trailer without issues. She had her first kayak and canoe rides, her first mini “hikes” on leash (.5km), met a ton of dogs and people, and tried some longer walks mixed with being carried. She still wasn’t fully bonded to us (happily would follow and walk off with a stranger or another dog) but was absolutely bonded to Whiskey. We maxed out at 30mins awake in a canoe and 40mins in a kayak. During this time we also did some meal replacement with freeze dried raw food for training and were getting much better recalls and sit/stays. Everything was chewed on and eaten and every dog needed to be greeted. We reinforced a routine even on the road with 3 feedings a day, and expected quiet times, and time for little adventures. Bourbon’s attention span got longer (measured in the amount of time she would chew something before losing interest).
I mentioned Bourbon had problems being constrained so I worked on making jackets a happy thing (she hated them and would fight them). I would always put on jackets with a treat and spent time putting them on and off as a training session. After a week she no problems with jackets. I worked on “leave it” to deal with guarding and made sure she felt safe eating. I made the dogs wait for their bowls longer and longer, and constantly took away chews for better options, or took away toys and gave them back. I haven’t seen much guarding other than no dropping a prized “treat” she finds outside since then.
We started introducing sleeping alone in her crate after a full month. It was about 1.5 hours of crying and screaming for 2 days (crate was in the bed with us) and on the 3rd night it was about half an hour before she went to sleep. We would let her out at around 5am for a potty and then she was allowed to sleep with us until we got up that morning. She regressed in terms of how long she could sleep without needing a potty break but eventually that extended until she could sleep all night. I’ll write a more full post about this soon!
Settling became easier as we both understood how to communicate to her better. We stopped having to crate her to settle and she started understanding NO. We got better at sit/stays and extending walks to 1.5kms towards the end of 4 weeks. Recall was constant work (and still is). Bourbon also had to learn to approach dogs gently and was reminded every week or so by a couple nips (nothing breaking skin), growls, and lessons from older dogs. The worst Whiskey would do would be a growl with teeth showing which we would allow and encourage Bourbon to respect the boundaries.
LOGLOG!!!First snow experience…not so happyFirst summit (assistance needed)
There seemed to be no fear of fireworks (during Halloween), of dogs, of people, or really anything. We slowly increased outdoor hiking time and distance while encouraging confidence but also caution. Bourbon was comfortable being carried on longer walks and learned to ask for help when needed (when she was cold or tired). She also learned to seek warmth and self regulate on walks (not just go totally nuts every time we took a break). I tried to hide on her in the forest to keep her range a big closer, although I’m not sure how much that worked since her confidence was already so high.
Bourbon continued chewing everything but with bigger jaw muscles and longer attention span. My computer speaker, a couple plants, some beautiful rugs and blankets, a dog bed and my tablet pen were all victims. Somehow she lost all her baby teeth without us finding a single one! Her favorite chew toy was her sister and she would regularly jump on Whiskey’s back and just start chewing. Whiskey was so patient with her!
Bourbon’s toe was finally healed but she was left with sensitivity to nails being clipped and handled (she was scared already before the injury which made it worse). We started experimenting with different methods to do her nails.
Bourbon was also introduced to snow for the first time, as well as some steeper rocky climbs and heights. We encouraged her to explore at her own comfort level and to find her own way up obstacles. She started being able to sit for lengths of time for photos and posing with other dogs.
More assistance down needed for longer hikesA week downtown was very exhausting for both of us
3 months home (5 months old)
9 hours sleep 4km “walks” (loads of breaks and carrying) sit/paw/come/leave it/down/go potty/stay/spin/touch/up working on exposure to downtown, walking on leash without pulling, prey drive
I rented a downtown apartment for a week to expose Bourbon alone to the city, noises, distractions, and buildings. She took to everything extremely well (including elevators) although the hardest was pigeons, crows, and falling leaves. My voice broke after all the high pitched calls and noises I was making to get her attention! Bourbon had loads of on-leash practice time (something we rarely do outside of the city) and got better at walking without pulling (with a ton of rewards and active training). I used the Ruffwear Flagline harness for all the on leash work and the handle was SO key to be able to lift her up in situations (such as eating something on the ground, walking into traffic, or big dog coming). I started being able to recall her off some dogs, some people, and some distractions. She started showing her stubbornness and personality but conversely insisted on following routines and schedules. Bourbon is a very clear communicator. Hikes with more and more cliffs were introduced as well as inclines (I carried her down any inclines if there was potential impact).
We started daily doing nail desensitizing trying different methods so we could clip or Dremel her nails. Since Whiskey’s never loved her nails done, we also trained Whiskey at the same time. As of writing this I’m 3 months into daily nail desensitizing and we’ve definitely improved but can still only get 1-4 of Bourbon’s nails done each session. Whiskey’s really easy at this point but I think it’ll still be another month at least with Bourbon.
This month was salmon season in full effect so we found out that Bourbon was an eater (of deer/elk/horse poop, and rotten carcasses) not a roller (Whiskey is typically a roller). Bourbon also loved to invent and play games by herself or with other pups. Her adult personality really became clear around this time and she started making up games to play such as throwing things down steep slopes so she could chase after them, or just watch them fall. We still hadn’t seen any fear stages show up.
Getting comfortable on rocky cliffs and mountainsAnother snowy summit. This time up and down all on her ownThe happiest girl!
4 months home (6 months old)
10 hours sleep 6km walks once a week, usually 2-3km walks twice a day offleash sit/paw/come/leave it/down/go potty/stay/up/spin/weave/high five/fetch/gogo working on distractions, faster recalls, nails, soft mouth
We were able to increase canoeing time to 1 hour and hikes to 6km with lots of rests (done rarely). I started cross country skiing with Bourbon and she learned how to avoid skis. Meals were down to 2 a day with no accidents in the house. Bourbon’s dog on dog greeting was pretty good at this point coming in friendly but submissive and flipping over as soon as a dog shows any aggression. She listened to and responded to recalls from people/dogs but only after saying hi first. We were about 50/50 successful on recall from people/dogs before she said hello from a decent distance.
At this point there was some giardia going around our neighborhood and both Whiskey and Bourbon took turns having the runs, but nothing terrible. I switched them on home cooked food for a couple days but there didn’t seem to be any cause to worry (I would have worried if it was my first dog). Bourbon’s range increased to about 200m within sight but overall ranged close enough for me to see her in forests and was very hard to hide from (even if I hid she tracked me down fast). She was also independent enough to play with herself during hiking breaks and would wander off to chase pinecones around instead of begging for food.
Getting better a higher logs and balancingLonger hikes with little to no impactRocking the modelling world
5 months home (7 months old)
10 hours sleep/almost adult bladder 8 km flat walks once a week, usually 2-3km walks twice a day offleash sit/paw/come/leave it/down/go potty/stay/up/spin/weave/high five/fetch/all with dog and people distractions working on nails, recall from dogs, loose leash, attention span, fetch, not chewing the wrong things
Bourbon is reaching the weight limit that I can carry on steep terrain. We are always working on recall and checking in, as well as walking with dogs she is to ignore. She’s successfully done a couple hard log crossing that full sized dogs would be afraid of. She’s shown cliff awareness but I still don’t feel safe with her off leash around death drops (likely for several more months!). We’ve done enough skiing (even one backcountry) and she’s aware not to get in the way of skis and she’s been ok in multiple types of clothing and doggy sleeping bags. Our bond has really grown but she still show no separation issues on the rare times we have a chance to leave her with someone else. She’s a very curious and thoughtful puppy and loves games to keep her brain occupied.
She chews inappropriate things now about once a week and is allowed around the rest of the house (no more baby gates). Because of Covid we haven’t practiced leaving her for periods of time in her crate. We are practicing sit/stays/recalls etc around other dogs, in dog parks, and highly distracted areas. Her stomach seems pretty strong for all the things she ingests without getting sick. I’m still working on snappy recalls and trust as well as teaching her to settle when bored (she normally goes off to find something to destroy or make up her own games at home). Bourbon still seems totally fine on her own or with Whiskey, with a different pack of dogs, or solo. Hopefully at some point when the border opens, we can get her trained on birds!
Reaching Assiniboine’s epic views involves some logistics, and planning but it isn’t very difficult. Getting there with dogs is a whole different experience! For all the right reasons, dogs are not encouraged in the park and there are loads of limitations that can take quite a bit of researching to find out. I’m all for limiting the backcountry to dogs that are trained and have experience (imagine if anyone at your local dog park could fly their dog in for the weekend) as this place is so special and is chalk full of wildlife and there are a list of things to consider before attempting to come.
Nub Peak with an oncoming winter storm to the left. We had to abandon camp earlyAn easy day hike around Magog Lake
Dogs are not allowed in any shelter, building, on the helicopter, on the bus to Sunshine valley, nor the gondola. They must be under control and on leash. There is abundant wildlife everywhere!
At Lake Magog with Mount Assiniboine looking overWith Erica coming in through the Assiniboine pass and meadows full of ground squirrelsViews from Nublet are hard to beatSunshine Village Route from top of Gondola
There are 3 main ways of arriving into the main campground at Lake Magog (there’s others that are less well travelled, I’ll stick to the 3 main ones). The first and easiest is a quick helicopter ride from Mt Shark Trailhead but dogs are not allowed. The second is hiking in from Sunshine Village, however dogs are not allowed on the bus to Sunshine village, nor are they allowed up the gondola (so you can still do this, however it would likely involve at least one night camping along the way and more distance and incline than the next option). Lastly you can hike from Mount Shark trailhead taking either the Wonder Pass or Assiniboine Pass (the trail splits at about 15km mark).
Wonder Pass is harder but well worth the effort on a sunny day during larch season
Details/Tips/Tricks/Lessons Learnt
Our tent can (and has) taken 1 foot of snow. We bring layers for dogs as well as humans, extra food, daypacks, rain gear and have seen deer, grouse, rabbit, grizzly, and marmot at camp.
The trail from Mt Shark is about 30km to the campsite give or take 2kms and dogs are not allowed in the shelters along the way. The camping along the route isn’t very special (also buggy!) so I’ve always hiked straight in. There is also a special trick to make the whole thing easier- although dogs are not allowed on helicopters, you can pay to fly in your bag, or gear. However, there are a couple things to note with this “trick”. The first is that you pick up your gear at Assiniboine lodge which is 2kms away from the campgrounds so you must be able to walk your bag over and back easily (I do not suggest a 50lb duffle bag at the end of a 30km hike!). In order to fly your gear in, you must check in your gear in Canmore prior to driving to the trailhead so make sure you time it right or you might not get your gear in time! The second time I did this hike, there was no such option available during Covid, so we had to carrying everything in.
Last note is that it makes much more financial sense to fly in a person with 40lbs allotted gear if you have that possibility (instead of paying per lb for gear) but I’ve never been in a group large enough that we could fly someone in. Also if you have a problem, they will not fly your dog out, so make sure you have everything you need to hike yourself and your dog out!
Hiking in through Assiniboine Pass with a full 5 day load pack
I’ve done this trip twice, and each time it’s not gone to plan. Mother Nature likes to remind us that she’s boss and we need to roll with whatever she throws. The first time I did this hike in September we got snowed in the second night waking up with more than 1 foot of snow on our tent. The weather report said there was more coming and everyone started clearing the campgrounds, however we couldn’t join the exodus into the cabins because of Whiskey (no dogs allowed), so we ended up hiking out early several days early during an early winter storm. It was a mentally tough hike in snow that turned into relentless rain for a really really long day and at the point our minds had become really numb we almost walked right into a bull moose in the middle of the trail. Thankfully the moose didn’t charge us and went into the forest and we continued on until we got back to our car and into warm dry clothes.
The second trip I came with Erica and her hiking pole broke early on and she experienced some really bad leg pains with an already injured knee. Since we had to carry all our gear in (45lbs+packs), our hike slowed to a crawl and we adjusted our trip to have many more rest days and cancelled a side camp trip to Og Lake. On both trips the weather was very difficult to predict and far from perfect (I have this luck that it’s always freezing on my trips). However the bad weather seemed to coincide with rest days and just makes me want to go again so I can finally experience the elusive Assiniboine experience that doesn’t need all my winter and rain gear.
Winter storm hitting us while we are on Nublet
What I’ve learned from these adventures to Assiniboine is
Book extra nights at the campgrounds so you can adjust your trip accordingly. Let the rangers know if you are leaving early though, so someone else can take your tent spot.
Fly some of your gear in, but pay attention to drop off and pick up times (non-covid times)
Use an Inreach Garmin to get an accurate weather report of the day (pay for the detailed report) and for a safety communication device. The ability to predict weather is worth so much if you’re heading out on a 6 hour hike alone in spotty weather.
Train for this hike if you are doing it in one day, train your dog, and train carrying the weight!
This location is PACKED full of wildlife including meadows full of ground squirrels, marmots under the outhouses, grouse, rabbit, deer, grizzly bear, and moose (I’ve seen every one of those on this trail!). You MUST have control of your dog (and I’m not just talking about hooking up a leash!) because if your dog pulls you towards every single squirrel you are going to be damaging your dog’s neck and you’re going to be dragged around like a puppet. You’ll have a much better time if you can hike and watch the wildlife with a dog calmly at your side.
Use hiking poles, your knees will thank you
If you are camping with dogs, study the campground map and find a quiet corner to camp at. I like site 16, although furthest from bathrooms and the shelters/bear caches, I will bother the least amount of people. Whiskey will have less chances to feel like she needs to warn me of people approaching (less anxiety for everyone) and I’ll be able to relax more.
We are so grateful to be able to experience this place with our pups
The Hike in From Mt Shark
Hike from Mt Shark to Lake Magog with two passes
Mt Shark trailhead starts from a long dirt road from Canmore with loads of potholes and corrugation that might have your teeth rattling. The road is exceptionally beautiful at sunrise and sunset if you can time it well! The trail head has great facilities including bathrooms, picnic tables and a large garbage. The trail actually take you across province lines (from Alberta to BC) and across park lines (although NOT timezones funny enough).
There are several side trails so make sure you have a good GPS map when you start (every wrong turn will cost you extra this day). The beginning of the trail is nice, wide and flat and is the quickest part of the hike. Once you pass the bridge over spray river/lake you start into the forest where the trail narrows but is till really easy to follow and hike. You’ll pass by BR9 campsite and keep going towards Bryant Creek Shelter. There is water at the Spray Lakes bridge, at the campsites, and at Bryant Creek Shelter (with Br 13 and 14 close by). Remember dogs are not allowed in the shelter but perhaps during a storm it could be life saving.
Wonder Pass with Larches in full gloryErica with Bodhi halfway up Sunburst for sunsetWeather is always changing (at least with my luck). Check the weather as much as possible
Here you need to decide if you are continuing onto Wonder Pass or Assiniboine pass. This is where the incline starts and you need to start working! Assiniboine pass is easier if you are carrying a ton of weight- it’s slightly longer but feels easier overall. Erica and I chose this way as she was in pain and it was the least impact. I also chose the for the way down during the storm I was hiking in on the first trip. Assiniboine pass has two options- hikers trail or horse trail. The hikers trail is higher with better views but is technically harder with more bridge crossings. The horse trail is lower in the valley and can be muddy with lots of shallow water crossings. Earlier in season I wouldn’t suggest the horse trail unless you don’t mind your feet being soaked but later in season the hiker’s pass may be closed and that may be the only option (as we experienced during the storm).
Wonder Pass with LarchesTrail from the lodge to camp is 2km of amazing
Wonderpass takes you to Marvel lake, around the side of the lake, and up some switchbacks into the pass between Wonder Peak and The Towers. If you miss this pass on the walk in, it’s definitely worth a day hike from the campground! In the right season the larches are just amazing and the pass is a very easy hike from the lodge. During the height of summer, watch carefully your water sources if it’s warm and know that not all the creeks on the maps may be flowing.
Hiking back in a storm, we went from snowstorm to rainstorm and then to a bull mooseLooking at Sunburst Peak from the lakesLooking at Sunburst and Assiniboine from Nublet
Once you have set up camp, you have loads of day hike options. The money shot is from the Nublet/Nub, a quick 7km+ (to Nublet) hike return from the campground. There’s loads of places to scramble and climb depending on your comfort level, as well as your dogs. Remember this is very remote and wild country with no rescue or fly-outs for your dog so please know your level and stay well within it. Even the Nub hike can have grizzlies so always bring bear spray and call out for bears.
We’ve scrambled halfway up Sunburst Peak (no trail), all the way up Chucks ridge (no trail), Nub Peak via Elizabeth Lake (no trail), Windy Ridge (14km trail) and there’s still so much I want to do! For rest days you can walk around Lake Magog, Sunburst Lake, Cerulean Lake and Elizabeth Lake. In all, remember that the goal for your 30km hike isn’t to just get to Lake Magog, it’s to get there to start hiking so make sure you’re up for it!
Scrambling up Nub from Elizabeth Lake (no trail)Windy Ridge, not a single person on the trail, not a technical trailErica and Bodhi at Windy Ridge looking into Banff with a rainbowChuck’s ridge was an adventure, totally not most-dogs friendlyOnly take mountain goats up scrambles!
There are very few wild places like this that still allow dogs so please represent us dog owners well! Clean up after your pup, keep clear of other campers, keep on leash, and respect the wildlife. There are loads of birds and chipmunks at every eating station, a marmot lives under one of the outhouses, and we saw deer and grouse right at our tent (and a grizzly mom and cubs had been through our campsite while we were out). Scrambles are not easy so please hike well within your dog’s limits and please do not use earphones so you can hear and see wildlife! Lastly, don’t let your dogs lick the frogs on the trail, Bodhi had a bit of a reaction when he (on leash) had a taste of one!
Girls and their dogs! It’s a ton of effort but so worthwhileWhiskey’s second time around and we still didn’t clear skies…next time!
I’ve been backcountry camping with Whiskey since I’ve had her and we’ve tried so many different forms and types of gear. While I’ve gotten used to carrying a significant amount of weight, every piece that I bring needs to be purposeful, tough, and lightweight (in that order). For reference we hike and camp in bear country, usually with the threat of variable weather, rain, snow, river crossings, and in wild country. We avoid crowds and sometimes hike without trails. Normally I go with girlfriends but once a year tend to go alone. Over the year I tend to camp close to the snowline, in the alpine, and summit peaks close to camp. Ticks are not an issue for us being so cold, but other wildlife is, so keeping scent-free is very important. I hope our gear guide is helpful, please let me know if you have any specific questions! A few links may be affiliate but are meant as a guide as to where you can buy the product. I do not promote one brand above others and have purchased most of the gear myself.
Whiskey rocking her Palisades Ruffwear bags and K9topcoat base layer
The BASICS
Dog leash- Wilderdog– I love gear that’s multi-purpose especially if I’m needing to carry it in on my back up a mountin! Wilderdog uses climbing rope and real locking carabiners. I’ve used the leash for everything from hanging a bear bag, lifting up my pup up some steep sections (from the harness, not neck), to even installing my tire chains. We’ve used the leashes for several years and they’re in top condition.
Hiking Pack- Ruffwear Palisades Pack– My love of this bag matches the love of my own Osprey. I love LOVE how the packs can come off and on so easily so we can take it off during food breaks. I ask Whiskey to carry a hefty load on multidays and every break she can get really helps. The harness underneath is perfect for summiting trips so I don’t need to bring another piece of gear. It’s good to note that we did break one of the tiny buckles that secures the bag onto the side of the dog (it’s not a major problem), and I’ve been too lazy to ask for a replacement buckle. The material of the bag also does rub and wear overtime on bushes and trees but overall I’m just so impressed by the ease of this product.
So much gear needed for backcountry camping, but so worth it
Harness- Ruffwear Flagline Dog Harness– Whiskey doesn’t tend to pull but if you’re hiking all day long on-leash it’s much more comfortable for everyone if your pup is on a harness, especially around mountain tops and technical scrambles. Bourbon is new to technical scrambles so I would always recommend a handle on the harness to help your dog up sections and have the easiest way to grip them should they slip (also easiest for a friend to help as well). If you’re even thinking you may need a harness, I would always recommend one with a handle.
Tent– Depending on the size of your dog, you may need to go up one person size of your tent (ie if you’re two people with one large dog you may need a 3ppl tent). I also highly recommend NOT getting an UL tent as the mesh on those are so easily torn with dog paws. Whiskey loves to “knock” on the mesh to ask to be let in and out and also to say hi to friends in the morning. UL tents also have snaggier zippers which aren’t good if you need to unzip in a pinch for a pee break/barf emergency.
I use vintage Marmot tents that are really heavy compared to what’s available these days but I just find the doors are huge, zippers are great, and the material lasts so well. Our 3 person Ajax tent has been under a foot of snow, in all conditions and we’ve had it for a decade now. I also highly recommend that you leave the bottom of the tent unzippered and teach your dog how to go in and out without having to ask you to unzip and zip each time. I’m totally resigned to the fact my tent’s going to be messy with dogs so I just keep my clothes in the corners. Lastly even if the evening calls for blue skies, consider bringing the fly unless you’re sure your dog won’t be bothered by watching the outdoors. I find most dogs sleep better when they cannot see outside.
The Klymit Moon Dog Mat
Klymit Moon Dog Mat– A really tough blow up mat that makes all the difference when the ground is cold, or you just want a comfortable spot to put your pup. Like humans, dogs lose so much heat from the ground so having an elevated surface really helps. I don’t bring the outer cloth layer anymore as it just adds bulk and weight and I’ll almost always bring a doggy sleeping bag instead. The mat is also great in canoes or anywhere else you want a mat that’s waterproof. I love the inflation system and I’m not even nervous about dog nails on these tough mats.
The Whlyd River Sleeping Bag that I carry on colder hikes
Whlyd River sleeping bag– Discount code: WHISKEY10 the best and warmest doggy sleeping bag out there. There’s so many options to adjust the bag to your needs and dog’s comfort, and a strap at the bottom to keep the bag on a mat. Available in 3 sizes we use Medium, Whiskey loves her bag and crawls right on as soon as I pull it out. There should be a down UL bag coming soon (the original uses synthetic insulation which is better for damp/wet conditions) that I would also totally recommend if you need to go light and don’t need the ultimate warmth the original provides. I use the UL bag during the day and slip the bag over the footbed of my own sleeping bag to keep me warm Whiskey Whiskey crawls in to join me. Another sidenote is that I normally take off most of Whiskey’s jackets if she’s going under the sleeping bag so she can warm up and so any dampness (it’s always damp where we are) doesn’t keep her cold.
Gundogsupply collar– We have lots of fancy collars but tend to go to these basic collars with nameplates. I’ve lost too many collar tags to trust them and if for some reason I lose a dog, I want to know my contact information is going to be on her collar. The collars are super tough and reasonably priced.
Our Ajax Marmot tent has lasted over a decade
the Human
Klymit extra wide sleeping bag– Whiskey sleeps in my sleeping bag with me at night (the dog mat and sleeping bag are for the rest of the time we are at camp because I don’t’ want her crawling in and out of my sleeping bag during the day). I haven’t found many options for extra wide bags and this one is amazing. It fits Whiskey and I with room to spare (I’ll report back if I can fit Bourbon as well) and comes in two warmth options. Please do note that when Whiskey’s in my bag I cannot keep the face section tightened so although Whiskey does add extra heat, the open bag does make it colder at the same time. Also, I take of Whiskey’s collar and clothing before she shares my bag so we don’t get tangled!
Nemo Sleeping mat– Not a dog thing, but I find if I’m sleeping with a dog my mat needs to be higher, wider, and more comfortable since we’ll both be moving around. I love this mat and it’s been much warmer than other mats of the same warmth rating.
for more Human hiking gear, here’s a more detailed post
the Kitchen
Dog bowl- I’ve tried the soft collapsible bowls but they break much easier (of two I’ve had both had holes from the dogs pawing at them). The fabric ones last but they’re a pain to clean when you feed something messy and leave food smells for the animals. I’m still looking for the perfect dog bowl!
DogFood- I highly recommend Open Farm Freeze Dried Raw (code WHISKEY10). It’s super lightweight, comes with a suitable package (so you don’t need to repack), I use half of her daily allowance for recall treats, and Whiskey’s poops are always so good.
Trying out my vintage 4 season tent, Whiskey chowing down on dinner with her dog mats
Earth Rated Poop Bags- Use the compositable bags and dispose of dog poop when you also need to go (in a proper waste management method like a cat hole). Bring a freezer zip lock bag to place the poop until you can dispose of them so you don’t have an “accidents”. I normally ask Whiskey to carry her own.
Bear Bag- Ursack- If you are camping in bear or critter country without suitable bear boxes, animals can easily get into your food at night. I really suggest these bear and critter proof bags to keep your food and seal it in a scent-proof bag (drybag) if you can. They’re heavy and an nuisance to carry but it also means you’re not attracting and feeding wildlife, putting yourself in danger, making sure your campsite stays open, and of course that your food isn’t eaten.
My Ursack poking through the bottom of my frost covered tent
the Extras
night light dog collar– There are clip on lights for dogs in the evenings but I’ve preferred these light up collars as others can see it’s a dog easier (it’s so scary if your dog walks by someone else’s campsite at night but much less threatening if they look like they’re ready to party). It’s also less likely that your dog may turn around and the light is obscured.
Bug Protection- I’ve tried everything and nothing “natural” works for more than 5 mins. If it’s bad I’ll keep Whiskey in the tent, cover her with a jacket/blanket, or put a jacket on her that I’ve sprayed with DEET. Otherwise you just have to keep moving. I believe Hurtta makes a bug suit but I’ve never tried it as Whiskey’s not allergic.
Winter camping involves more gear, but cabin winter camping is at least tent-less
Dog jackets- We’ve done loads of reviews on dog jackets but I didn’t want to ignore the need of protection in the evening when the temperature drops. Like humans it’s good to have layers, fleece, waterproof options, and maybe even a base layer depending on where you are going. The doggy bag is super warm but if you’re going to be out for long periods of time, having options is always great!
H2O4K9 Stainless Steel K9 Water Bottle– the “insulated” leaks- I normally carry a water bladder and hike in locations with loads of water so I don’t normally ever need to carry water for Whiskey. However if you do need a dog water bottle, this is the best one I’ve found. You can pour the unused water right back in so nothing is wasted and the lid doesn’t add much weight and works really well for Whiskey.
Sometimes I bring too much! This hike I have my boat and paddles attached to my bag
First Aid
Paw Wax- Pup Wax– I keep a tiny tin and apply on my pups paws at night while giving the paws a close inspection especially on rocky and long multi-days. It’s so important to check their paws as much as possible because if you can catch a cut early and boot it, you can save yourself the trip, a rescue call, or carrying your dog the rest of the way. Try and make it a nightly ritual! You can also apply to sunburnt noses and your own hands and feet if they’ve been overworked.
Allergy Pills- I keep Benedryl and Reactine with me on most hikes. Allergy reactions are one of the most common issues (wasps, bugs, plants, etc). It’s good to know your dog’s dose of the drugs and write them down.
Activated Charcoal– Eating human feces with THC is highly poisonous and getting more common. Write your dog’s dose of charcoal and keep on hand if you are on a busier campground/trail/bike trail. I’m the crazy dog owner that goes out of my way to inform anyone I see smoking that my dog can die if they don’t dig a deep enough cat hole.
Duct Tape/Zip lock baggy/bandages- These are part of my normal human first aid kit that I find the most useful crossover to dogs. Duct tape can help wounds, make booties, mend broken gear. Zip lock bags (go for the freezer ones) are useful in so many ways but can help keep something waterproof. Bandages are self explanatory!
Whiskey wearing her emergency bootie (she had a small cut) on a lunch break (packs off)
Booties– I normally bring an emergency bootie on long or serious camp trips. Boots that fit every single paw is best if you don’t want to bring the entire set so we go with Muttlucks (I can strap on really tightly and kept one on for 5 days of backcountry last year). If there’s any reason you may suspect your dog may need boots outside of an emergency (bad cut on glass for example) then bring an entire set and stay on the safer side.
Garmin InReach Device– should anything happen on your hike where you would need help (or come across someone else that may need help), you can communicate out of reception with any cell phone number or email (as well as SOS emergency systems). You can also track your location with GPS and check weather systems coming in.
Emergency Harness- I mention this as it’s something my friends have been pondering, some buying. You need to have some way to carry out your own dog should they become injured or sick. Whiskey’s just over 50lbs and I can carry her slowly over short distances on my shoulders and I do prefer that over a harness situation. Regardless, make sure you have a way to carry your dog and that you practice it before you need to. If you don’t regularly bring an emergency harness, practice carrying your dog over your shoulders (behind your neck) with their legs on either side so your dog feels comfortable and so you can get in and out of the position.
I’ve been hiking for a couple decades, try a ton of different gear, in all weathers and am REALLY TOUGH with my gear. With dogs, little balance, bad knees, and a good amount of tolerance to rain and snow, I can safely say this is gear I use and trust my life on. I’ll write another post on my camping gear, so this is aimed at day hikes in all weathers, mostly in rainy or potentially rainy weather where conditions change quickly.
I’ve been hiking for awhile and have gone through so much gear (including updating this backpack here)
Tough Gear > Lightweight Gear With dog nails, my own clumsiness, and the tendency here to always be climbing hard rock, lightweight gear just does not last.
Layers > Heavy single solution Because my hikes can take me through sunshine, to pouring rain, to hail, then snow, then sun again, perhaps with a couple mountains, layers are all important. I can go from shorts and tshirt to jacket weather really quickly passing by an exposed section of alpine, or a lunch stop while the rain rolls in. Merino wool is key with a waterproof shell can be key for not only your chest, but legs, feet, and head.
Expensive Brands with reliable Warranty > Cheaper No Name Brands Over the years I’ve worn down or bought expensive clothing that hasn’t stood up to what I expected. As I’m getting more conscious of environmental impact of cheap clothing, I find that the price per clothing PER USE is what I try to keep in mind. A cheaper jacket may only last a year but an expensive one can last 5 (that’s a miracle for hiking gear for me) and when that jacket stops working after 5 years sometimes a good brand may fix it for you. It may not the an option for everyone but please keep in mind the cost PER USE of an item vs the upfront cost and if you can, support brands that try and fix their clothing.
Clothing
Arc’teryx Jacket with Keb Pants (one vent opened) with Salomon Quest 4D GTX Hiking Boots
I love these pants. I live in them most of the year when it’s not super cold or super warm. They have two air vents on either side that I use nearly every hike, as well as gigantic pockets for treats and lens caps. There’s so many pockets I lose my car keys! I use the clips at the bottom as gaiters (not for crazy hikes but good enough) and they’re both comfortable and long-lasting. I cannot recommend them enough.
Merino Wool base layers! This is key no matter what brand you go with, make sure that the percentage of wool is high or I do find that the clothing picks up scent a bit more. My favorites are Mia Short sleeves Brooke 1/4 zip (base layers) and Avery leggings as a base layer
I’ve owned 6 of these over time. It’s the perfect hoodie for me- thinner, zip up pockets, hood that zips to chin, hand sleeves that convert to semi-mittens
They don’t look great but I haven’t found any other better option than these Amazon gloves (please let me know if you know some!) They’re stretchy, sized for females, and aren’t horrible in wet.
The first thing to get when you start hiking are merino socks. Wet feet or damp feet lead to blisters and a miserable day! Make sure you have a backup on longer hikes or wet hikes with river crossings
SV is for Severe weather. I live in rain for most of the year and my dog walks in 2 hour daily walks+ rainy hikes +all day rainy camp trips+ bushwhacking +river paddle trips counts as Severe! Yes these jackets are jaw droppingly expensive but I’ve tested and used their warranty several times. They actually stand by their gear and replace them if they leak. Since Gore-Tex really doesn’t last forever, it’s worth it for me to know my jacket will be replaced if I get a leaky one (I have unsuccessfully tried to replace Helly Hanson and North Face Gore Tex and only had a smooth replacement with Arc’teryx so now I’ll stick to this local brand).
These are my winter boots when I need something rigid or for any activities in the backcountry that doesn’t involve long days of hiking (they’re heavier than the Salomon boots)
Great car shoes or hut shoes. It means so much to come back to a car after a long 12 hour hiking day or multi-day and change into clouds on your feet.
I’ve tried different kinds of car shoes but since I’m usually hiking back to a forest road, with potential 4wding and puddles, I don’t like open shoes anymore if I need to jump in and out of my car (it’s so stupid to get a toe injury AFTER the hike!). Slip on shoes rule!
Bags
Osprey Ariel 65 with a WoolX top and leggings, Hillsound Trail Crampon Ultras and gaiters, photo by Ngaio Hotte
I love this bag so much for shorter summer hikes. The backstraps are sufficient to carry weight, it fits my DSLR, has extra compartments to fit a scary amount of items, and water compartment as well as waist strap. With my camera clip, I can carry my camera on the front strap and 2 extra lenses with bear spray, clothing layers, water, and food. It doesn’t look pretty but it works.
I carry this less now because I can fit so much in the Verve bag. I use the 34L for day hikes that need a bunch of extra layers, safety gear, camera gear, etc. It’s also better if I’m scrambling and don’t want many things hanging off my bag, or if I’m taking significant weight.
Great for smaller local walks, the bag looks so much nicer than the Osprey ones and fits my DSLR with extras.
Osprey Ariel 65 (I tried the Aura but switched) **new version only 70L** now seems to have a convertible lid to backpack
A big reason I switched from Aura was that top compartment convertible lid to backpack that I use very very often. The pack is super comfortable and I’ve loaded it to the max, using all the extra straps.
Safety
Helmet, Woolx top, Knee brace and Salomon Quest 4D GTX Hiking Boots with the Osprey Verve 9
I’m not a fan of adding things to my water so I prefer edibles
easy to share with others!
Knee Brace Bauerfeind Genutrain (not the Sports knee)
I have a meniscus tear from 5 years ago and my knee can swell up without this. The price is worth it, it makes an enormous difference over cheaper ones you get at a drugstore. The Sports version is not the same, so get the Genutrain
Battery Pack
Battery pack with usb for at least 1 charge on the phone (also charges my headlamp and my InReach device)
Get the 3L bag if you have a choice, especially on camping trips
I’ve tried MSR handpump (takes too long, too many parts that can break), the sawyer squeeze (takes too long, bags are frustrating, but lasts longer and easier to clean than Befree), and tablets (doesn’t get rid of sediment and you need a certain size bag of water). Overall, if I have the Befree the entire group will use it because it’s faster and easier but I will have a backup on bigger trips. I’ve still yet to find the perfect filter…
For scrambles where rocks can tumble onto someone else’s head
AllTrails App (or similar GPS device or App)
The pro version allows you to download offline maps. I’ve used these maps countless times over my hikes to assist in understanding where a trail was, where FSRs are, how to get back onto trails, and where best in rugged terrain to aim for.
no APP or device will help if you don’t know how to use them and how to navigate with them. They can also fail and not be accurate in mountains or valleys where there is interception of reception from satellites. Having a trip plan ahead of time, backup paper maps, batteries, and knowledge of terrain is extremely important and lifesaving.
Winter Extras
Hillsound Gaiters and Crampon Pro
Hillsound Crampons
I use the Hillsound Trail Crampon Ultra for most hikes that have varried terrain, or when I need to carry crampons “just in case”. I used to buy cheaper Amazon ones but after breaking 4 pairs I switched to these that are better made and support their products. Size up if you are wearing winter boots!
I use Hillsound Trail Crampon Pro when the entire hike is in the snow with little exposed rock. They provide more stability and will not ball up snow, and are easier to wear as they are rigid.
These are a good balance of tough and light. I tend to prefer slightly heavier gear that’s a bit tougher than super lightweight because I bushwack, have dogs, and ruin anything lightweight.
The same story as most of my gear! After trying out a bunch of cheaper headlamps I bought the Fenix HL60R. It’s rechargeable with usb (I carry an extra battery pack that covers this), is super bright, waterproof, doesn’t accidentally turn on in my bag, and I’ve never had an issue with it.
Ice Axe
I’ve never had to use it to self arrest but there have been enough situations where we’ve walked past an avalanche zone, or been hiking up a steep enough snow slope that I wished I had this.
Who knew a shovel would be so useful? When not out on avalanche terrain, I try and keep this in my car. We’ve helped dig out enough cars including my own that this has been a super worthy investment.
Probe
Part of my avalanche gear, you need a probe over 3m in our terrain here. AST1 course is needed before you venture out into our backcountry
Barryvox Transceiver
I have an older version for avalanche areas. I now feel stupid for hiking in areas with even a small bit of exposure without this.
All my avi gear, WoolX top, Garmin Inreach Mini, photo by Ngaio Hotte
I used a Black Diamond Shock pole for 6 years without issues and then switched to the FLZ treking poles because of the lightness and quick breakdown which I DO NOT RECOMEND as I broke two pairs (I also had to hack it for winter baskets). Then I switched to the Leki which so far has been wonderful but these poles do not allow winter baskets so now I use a cheap telescoping Black Diamond set for the winter.
I have the Beach and Bay model. With dogs the Beach is by far the best! You can fit so many dogs in as well as camera gear and the boat is quick (5mins) to set up and down (3mins) as well as stable and easy to use, best of all, packs up into a backpack.
At 10lbs the Explorer 42 boat can carry 2 people, 3 dogs (uncomfortably) or any amount of gear (weight up to 800lbs). I’ve carried this model up mountains and been the only one on the water. It’s wonderful for river crossings, hunting, bike trips, etc. Super stable and totally fine with dog nails, it blows up quickly with a big in under 5mins. However because it’s a raft it will go with the wind/waterflow and will spin if you stop paddling (ie it’s hard to take photos from in large water)
Their TuffStuff models are TOUGH! We have dragged these boats up and down rocky cliffs, dropped them from heights, and they’re very impressive. They’re also light enough I can portage easily and our 16ft fits a large amount of dogs without issue (we’ve fit 4 in, it was an adventure).
Peak design camera clip to hold up my camera while hiking on my backpack. I get asked about this all the time. I now have two clips so I don’t have to keep moving it from bag to bag and I really love this option!
Seems silly but I normally have a couple of these in my bag. They’re great if you need an energy boost, not dry so it’s easy to eat and digest if you are dehydrated, and doesn’t freeze easily so it’s great all year round (freezing food is an issue!).
Not for humans, but if I want my dogs to stick around, and also for emergency food/snacks, these are lightweight, healthy (who wants runny poops outside?), and every single dog I petsit likes it.
When you select a jacket for your dog, think of the conditions you are going out in, and the type of dog you have. Are they normally cold? Do you only need rain/snow protection (some dogs ball up), perhaps you have a summer dog like Whiskey! Are they going to be on a long hike, in wet snow? deep snow? or playing rough with other dogs?
I find wet snow is much more difficult to protect against as it sticks to the top of alot of jackets and then melts into the jacket instead of just falling off like dryer colder snow. Wet snow also then refreezes and becomes ice causing even more problems. In this case, find a jacket that has a smooth surface so the snow falls off quicker. If warmth is the only issue, then focus on the thickness of the jacket and what areas it covers. Perhaps you use a harness and need to make sure there are openings in the jacket?
Abby has a double coat of fur that’s long and Whiskey has a single very short coat of fur. Whiskey is wearing Backcountry gaiters and Voyagers k9
Hurtta Extreme Warmer– best for- dogs with thicker fur, harnesses, dogs that need ear protection (doesn’t stay on a fast moving dog), thicker dogs, size down if between sizes, no velcro
Hurtta Expedition Parka– best for- dogs that have shorter fur, slimmer dogs, size down if between sizes, no velcro
Voyagers k9– best for- wet snow, rough play, velcro only, does not fully cover chest but thicker fleece than chillydogs. The most Waterproof winter jacket we have.
Chillydogs winter jacket fits Whiskey
Chillydogs.ca – best for- best fit for Whiskey, velcro and clips so it won’t come off even if your puppy tries! Full tummy coverage, fleece is slightly thinner then k9voyagers.
Hurtta Extreme Overalls– The newest warmest “jacket” with legs that we have tried. Fully adjustable points and ankle tighteners. Can be hard to put on a moving dog and the legs can get tangled into the jacket if you are doing extreme activities (bushwacking/technical climbing) but most activities and range is fine. Snow does stick to the cuffs and and ice over.
K9topcoat Waterproof Bodysuit– The best and warmest underlayer (or solo layer) we have tried. Whiskey has actually panted in this which is SO rare. Perfect underneath a traditional jacket. Doesn’t collect or gather snow and is waterproof (be careful about ripping with playing dogs or sharp bushes) code WHISKEY15
Layering Options
Another layer here would have been helpful! Hurtta Expedition Jacket
If it gets colder, I would first add boots (dogs lose alot of heat from their paws). Whiskey will lift her paws when she needs boots (she looks uncomfortable, shivering, tail tucked, and lifts one paw after another). After boots are added, think about a fleece layer, or a body-suit underneath. Perhaps a snow suit option. We haven’t tried all the brands yet! Lastly, if it’s very windy (or sunny) Rexspec googles are great. I tend to keep this in my bag until it’s needed (the training to wear these is higher than boots).
Dog Booties
Testing out Voyagersk9 dog boots
No matter what we’ve tried, nothing has been perfect. Velcro on the feet balls up in snow and gets stuck into the teeth causing it to fall off eventually. Boots that fit dogs with fur (ie thicker ankles) don’t do well with dogs with skinny hairless legs. The leg holes end up collecting snow that becomes ice and can be painful if not cleaned up. If the boots are too thin, they can become wet and frozen which doesn’t help. Thick boots rub the ankles, and doesn’t allow the dog to feel the ground. Also no boots give the same grip as a dog’s own paws and claws while climbing obstacles (I assume most people aren’t scrambling rocks in sub-zero conditions but this is a problem for us). There’s a longer blogpost about boots here, but these are what I use
Hurtta– comfortable, no rubs, holes in the joints after a season’s hard use, must wrap and tuck the strap tightly inside itself to stay put, still comes off after an hour or so
Canine Equipment Ultimate Trail Boots- comfortable, haven’t tested fully, velcro strap can come off, lightest bootie set (I put this in my bag as a “just in case”)
Backcountry Paws– dog gaiters DO NOT COME OFF (won’t lose boots), boots are attached to gaiters, can be an ordeal to put on if multiple dogs, velcro straps can come loose, so you still have to strap really tightly and keep an eye on the velcro, in deep snow can collect inside the leg holes and then the gaiters are useless (do not use in fresh deep snow), offers more protection then just boots
Muttluks– only good for short periods of calm walking, fabric isn’t waterproof and freezes into ice, paws get wet, good for protection against salt in the city, strap will not stay on long
Voyagers K9– higher with two straps, fleece so fabric isn’t waterproof outside of the bottom section, can collect snow inside and freeze, not good in wet snow conditions, can be used for shorter periods of time, dryer snow, inside the home, straps don’t have a tightening device
Dog Goggles
Goggles are pretty specialized. In most conditions you won’t ever need them. Outside of hunting in bush where their eyes can be damaged, and dogs that already have eye damage, winter use is limited to very windy days, very cold days (yes they really do provide protection from cold) and also long snowy hikes in bright sunshine (eyes can be damaged and sunblind with frequent exposure and will show as they age, Whiskey’s now got many black spots building around her eyes). They take specialized training to use so please think of them as a process, not a quick gimick.
Dog Mats
Whyld River dog bed
If we are stopped for awhile or camping, there’s some options that might help-
Dog mat- Klymit now makes blow up dog beds that separates your dog from the cold ground (like human mats).
Dog sleeping bags– Whyld River (Discount code: WHISKEY10 ) makes a really thick synthetic insulated sleeping bag. Sometimes I bring just the bottom layer for rest stops on longer hikes (I end up sitting on it, because Whiskey prefers a warm lap)
Extra down jacket- For multi-use bring an extra down jacket or blanket that anyone can use. I lay it out for Whiskey to sit on if needed.
Human Gear
All geared up for subzero temps
Crampons/Microspikes- I prefer to use microspikes when the start of a hike isn’t snowy or needing the spikes, and if a hike is fully in snow/ice, then I prefer crampons (the type for hiking, not ice climbing). Crampons do not ball up but are alot more aggressive, they also do bot break as easily as the stretchy microspikes but I would not want to use them over rock or trails not fully covered in snow. My preferred brand is Hillsound
Hillsound Crampons
Snowshoes– only needed with lots of fresh powder, otherwise use crampons/microspikes. They can be cumbersome and unnecessary on a packed trail, if hiking proper incline, get snowshoes with metal spikes that go along the sides, not just the teeth under the toes (MSRs)
Hiking poles with baskets– Hiking poles that have the ability to take on and take off snow baskets are great! I prefer black diamond poles so far.
Hillsound Gaiters, MSR snowshoes
Gaiters– gaiters prevent snow from entering your boots should you be post-holing. They aren’t needed if you are only sticking to well trekked out trails and won’t be going into deeper snow, however if there is a chance you might, better be safe! I prefer Hillsound
Boots- Ankle high boots with a solid support and thickness to keep you warm. Boots are super personal so make sure yours is comfortable with winter socks
Socks/Clothes- I prefer merino wool! It keeps you warm even when wet which is so useful if you’re sweating in sub zero temperatures. Select socks with more than 75% merino and carry an extra pair if you might be doing any river crossings.
Headlamp– in Canada winter hiking means less daylight and the likelyhood of heading back in the dark (or starting in the dark). It’s always good practice to bring a headlamp with extra batteries (cold batteries drain faster) that are NOT rechargeable (those drain much faster), or a charger for usb headlamps.
Extras- Gloves, mittens, hats, neck gaiters, down jackets, and a good shell are all important. There’s more than enough options for these but bring more than you think you might need. Your friend might!
When I passed by this section of Northern BC a couple years ago, I looked at the parks nearby and made a mental note to research more for a multiday hike in the future. Just the photos of the Spectrum range alone makes one spend a couple hours looking into the possibility of checking out this region.
The bright colored mountains drew us in
Previously called the Rainbow Mountains, the range is so colorful from the heavy mineralization from the Mount Edziza volcanic complex. As well, this location is the main source of obsidian in Northern BC and First Nations travelled from as far away as Alaska and northern Alberta for the sharp stone.
The wild Spectrum range
There are very few trails in the region, mostly not marked, often overgrown and always difficult to hike. There’s two main areas in the Mount Edziza Park, the Spectrum range (South of the Raspberry Pass) and the Edziza area, neither of which has vehicle access, all very remote, and home to Grizzlies, moose, mountain goats and sheep, and wolves.
The little plane that took us in, and all our gear
With little information and no trails, we made our own trail plan, traversing from Little Ball Lake to Mowdade Lake in a U-shape heading over the range. Everyday we passed by one or two mountain ranges, and normally crossed at least one river/stream. Our maps were old (glaciers having receeded a large amount) but with barely any trees, we were able to find our route relatively easy. Scrambling passes were more difficult, as sometimes you would climb most of the way up a mountain only to pop over the other side and realize you couldn’t get down safely. Another time we scrambled up a pass with loose scree that just kept getting steeper to the point we ended up climbing up a waterfall as it had the largest stable rocks to cling to.
The crew, 3 humans, one pup
River crossings were another challenge and there was a day we reached a river towards the end of our day. We could have camped and then attempted the crossing in the morning, but we chose to attempt the crossing in the evening in case someone fell in and needed to spend the day warming up. The river was ranging, and we scouted until we found a narrows (which made the river even faster). There was a 1 meter jump that could not be missed. Packs were thrown over separately and Whiskey made it on her own (with alot ALOT of encouragement and a rope tied to her harness).
Vistas were at every turn
Water was everywhere, and filtered it was clean and easy to cook and drink with. We never needed to carry much with us, as everyday we would pass countless sources of water or snow.
Limited food supplies but still yums
Finding suitable camp spots was also easy, the main question being, “should we keep going, would it be better further on”. We buried our bear bags (Ursacks), with all our food overnight far from our camp spots and never had any issues. We carried dehydrated food packs, and with very limited spaces in our ursacks (the determining factor in what we could bring), packed dried fruits, bars, and shared double
Whiskey and the humans were exhausted every night
Communication became key, as our last day ended up being longer than any of us expected (with no trail, we didn’t know how long anything would take). With my InReach mini device I was able to speak to our plane for a pickup as late as possible. We were racing the sun as we finally got to Mowdade Lake (with a couple wrong turns) and boy the elation when we saw our plane picking us up!
The most loyal, strongest, sweetest trail dog everHanging out above glaciersWhat a wild country
Canon 5d (this one was a Mark 3 but I have a Mark 4 now)
This is my most asked question online. If you only want the answer, it’s currently a Canon 5D mark 4 but if you really want to know how to take great photos, the answer is much more complex and buying the same camera may not be your answer.
My current arsenal of lenses include the 17-40mm f4, 24-70mm mark 2 f2.8, 70-200mm f4, 50mm f1.2, 85mm f1.8, 135mm f2. When I hike, my current favorite is normally the 24-70mm. With the camera body, this is serious weight (2lbs for the body and 2lbs for the 24-70mm). It’s also pretty darn big hanging off your body as you scramble up rocks and it’s almost too big to hide under a spacious rain jacket if the rain starts pouring down unexpectedly. I have this camera for several reasons- I would like the option to print large and to seriously crop my images. For me, the full frame camera is great but I don’t think most pet owners want to carry such a large weight for those reasons. I’m also working in photography so have an “excuse” for a camera in this price range, and the willingness to carry the kit up and down the mountains. If you already own a dslr and the size/weight becomes an excuse to leave it behind, then I would not suggest anything larger.
135mm f2 gives a really creamy bokeh
I really believe the picture you take is always better than the picture you don’t take and a wonderful option are the mirrorless options that are out there now. I just LOVED the Fuji XT1 that we had. It was tiny, pretty tough in the rain, light, perfect for female hands, and the lenses were amazing quality. I much prefered the Fuji body but technically it didn’t stand up to the 5D. I’m also considering moving to the Sony A7 III, and may do soon enough, just for the potential of a better autofocus system (they have dog specific focusing that I’ve not yet tested). Mirrorless cameras include the Canon M100, Canon RP, Nikon Z6, the Sonys (thinking about moving to) and Fujis (I really love the Fuji body).
50mm f1.2 at it’s widest
Another option is a cropped frame DSLR sporty camera that has great auto-focusing abilities but is smaller and cheaper than the full frame options. We used to own two cropped-frame Nikon D-90s that were wonderful and lasted 5+ years of photos. Cropped frame cameras include the Nikon D3500, D7200, D500, Canon 80D, Canon 760D, Canon Rebel (my first!), and so many others.
Lenses
24-70mm f2.4 that I carry on most of my trips70-200mm f4 at the longest, you need two people for this one for dogs
Lens choices are personal. They depend on the type of photos you like to take, your ability to carry them, and the environment and situation you shoot in. I prefer zoom lenses in most places because as Whiskey moves, I can quickly adapt and get shots that are not just her posing in a certain location. I’m also usually in very restricted spaces where backing up is not an option (like a cliff) so zoom lenses really help with flexibility. In so many cases something amazing is happening and I wouldn’t have much time to switch lenses and I don’t want to be stuck on a prime without knowing what type of photo I’m taking before I start a hike. Also, Whiskey is trained to stay really close to me on trails, and unless my husband is with me, she’s not usually far away enough for me to control (pose) from a great length, so I don’t usually bring a long lens. Overall my go-to is the 24-70mm f2.8 mark 2 which is a big lens but covers most of the range and just captures wonderfully sharp images in difficult situations (ie flares, backlighting, little distortion). Of course, my ability to carry lenses up mountains and hikes severely restrict my options.
50mm f1.2 I struggle for the lens to pick her eye
Primes are better if you are not hiking for hours with a pack on, or if you are aiming for a particular look with short depth of field. If we are going out for a photoshoot, I do love my 135mm. It’s a very specialized lens but has the creamiest bokeh and makes anything look great.
135mm f2 is beautiful but I was backing up in snowshoes in hip deep snow!
Remember, I shoot dogs which are shorter and smaller than humans so the same lens might not look the same for humans. I’m constantly trying to learn how to use and work with my lenses, and sometimes will just go out with one I haven’t tried in ages. The 50mm 1.2 is the hardest for Whiskey, the short depth of field with a camouflage dog seems like an autofocus challenge, especially in the forest or busy environment. I don’t have as much trouble with a person, but once I start adding foreground elements, it seems like everything including the ground, the trees, and the leaves have more contrast and interest for the autofocus to grab onto than Whiskey’s soft monochrome fur.
